Drivetrain clunks

[Scallops]

After doing a search on the above topic, it would appear that some amount of drivetrain clunk noise is to be expected from Defenders. (?)

Mine does it too - and because it is my first LR - I have nothing to compare it with.

By driving very carefully, I can pretty much eliminate most if not all of the drivetrain clunking - but changing from 4th to 5th is very hard to do without a slight clunk unless I back off the accelerator when I shift.

Why might it be easier to get a clunk changing between 4th and 5th but not so prevalent between other gears?

[JohnF]

I would suggest if you see another defender to ask the ownwner to drive you around the block to see that he does not have the same clunks. I could tell you about some of the RRC clunks but defender may have some differences, so I will leave that reply to others.

[duncanw]

My disco does it as well, I was waiting for something to break but it seems like its normal

[Bigmark]

As far as i am aware it is very normal- on the clunk-o-meter my 95 110 is a little better than my ex 130 but basically the same.

[solmanic]

Same here. It's a source of continual joy for me when I get a totally smooth change :D. Interestingly, if you drive it hard, and I mean really revving the snot out of it between gears (3000+ rpm), then the changes can be remarkably slick. Its' the cruisy, low rev changes that tend to be the most clunky.

[Scallops]

Same here. It's a source of continual joy for me when I get a totally smooth change :D. Interestingly, if you drive it hard, and I mean really revving the snot out of it between gears (3000+ rpm), then the changes can be remarkably slick. Its' the cruisy, low rev changes that tend to be the most clunky.

Thanks to everyone who has replied - glad to know the clunk is a standard LR feature :D but to be sure, if I may, I will ask solmanic to take Grover for a hot lap and see if he reckons it's completely normal.

[muddymech]

dito, not the easist things to drive, especally in town

[one_iota]

My Defender is much better than the Disco in that department...but the Disco has about 170k km on it and no doubt some drivetrain wear.

It might just be worth checking the nuts on the drive shafts because some of the UK owners are reporting loosened bolts:

Defender2 - View topic - Prop shaft Survey (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic514.html)

[Scallops]

My Defender is much better than the Disco in that department...but the Disco has about 170k km on it and no doubt some drivetrain wear.

It might just be worth checking the nuts on the drive shafts because some of the UK owners are reporting loosened bolts:

Defender2 - View topic - Prop shaft Survey (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic514.html)

Thanks for that - just popped outside during afternoon tea and crawled under Grover (in the business suit!) and had a quick gander at this - they are at least finger tight. When I get home I'll run a spanner over them to make sure - Harry Ho Har did find a loose one in Darwin for me on our recent trip - one of his was also loose.

[defmec]

my 93 fender clunked alot didnt matter what u fix it still clunked until i converted it to part time 4wd and then it was a dream to drive could not get it to clunk no matter how hard i drove it. i now drive a county and the lt95 has no where near the amount of back lash of the lt230

[PAT303]

My defender had driveline clunks,it's got alot of K's but I found the bolts on just about everything were loose and after new bushes and bolts through out it was OK.One thing that made a big difference was going to 90/140 in the sals and half 85/90-90/140 in the T/C.I think that they need a heavier oil, especially in the hotter parts of Oz. Pat

[lambrover]

my rovers clunck as well I have been told that most of the backlash comes from the transfer case they need to have new thrust bearings fitted.

[JDNSW]

There are a lot of places where a little bit of slack is to be expected (splines in gearbox, transfer case, axles drive flanges, thrust washers in the centre and axle diffs) and small amounts can add up. There are also a few places where excessive slack can appear due to wear that needs to be fixed - gearbox main shaft onto T/C input gear, drive shaft bolts, drive shaft U-joints*, rear axle drive flanges, A-frame ball joint, lower link bushes, engine mounts, plus probably a few I have missed. But as a general rule, the slack is pretty much not noticeable unless driving technique is poor or the handbrake is dragging even slightly.

John

*check this and repair immediately if necessary, as it may lead to prop shaft failure, and you definitely do not want to find out what this involves!

[rick130]

<snip>
.One thing that made a big difference was going to 90/140 in the sals and half 85/90-90/140 in the T/C.I think that they need a heavier oil, especially in the hotter parts of Oz. Pat

I wish 75W-110 was readily available in Oz (yes, it is an SAE oil category) instead of having to mix your own.

[Scallops]

Thanks again - would anyone be surprised (apart from me) if any mechanicals were worn out? The 110 isn't quite 1 year old.

Anyway - driving it home last night I managed to be pretty much clunk free. Reckon one needs to have some Zen happening to drive a LR properly. :D

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Mine had a clunk when taking off but it was a known pinion slop issue in the rear diff. I got LR to fix this. They of course stuffed it up and put too much locktight in there and wrecked the pinion bearing. MR picked this up when putting the rear diff lock in. They fitted new bearings and re-set everything and it's been quiet as a mouse since...

I must admit I'm surprised you can hear it going from 4th to 5th. That's quite fast...