Finally A Broken Drive Shaft

[HAK]

It had to happened sooner or later

From a 450HP Rotary to 600HP Turbo 6's to 800HP V8 I had to break a LR drive shaft the front one to be exact.

And of all places on the M4 not in the tranquil wattagans or the mountainous Lithgow or even the rural Appin no on the M4 a vibration followed by larger Vibration then stopped with traffic then started to calmly proceed and nothing no forward no drive no high range no low range

It has clearly sheared of the uni cage of the transfer case side

Mmmmm what now, any recommendations to who build the best drive shifts in Sydney, ill get the both done.

On the weekend I saw a guy’s truck he had a CV joint instead of Uni Joint has any body ever heard of that :(:(:( come one come all next will be the half shaft or the CV I bet

[PAT303]

Funny,both the patrol diff's,held in very high regard by many here that I have personally seen break both let go on the tar,one driving out of sydney airport,the other on the highway outside Alice springs. Pat

[HAK]

week end prior I was at wattagans about B C grade tracks luckly didnt snap there

[Slunnie]

It had to happened sooner or later

From a 450HP Rotary to 600HP Turbo 6's to 800HP V8 I had to break a LR drive shaft the front one to be exact.

And of all places on the M4 not in the tranquil wattagans or the mountainous Lithgow or even the rural Appin no on the M4 a vibration followed by larger Vibration then stopped with traffic then started to calmly proceed and nothing no forward no drive no high range no low range

It has clearly sheared of the uni cage of the transfer case side

Mmmmm what now, any recommendations to who build the best drive shifts in Sydney, ill get the both done.

On the weekend I saw a guy’s truck he had a CV joint instead of Uni Joint has any body ever heard of that :(:(:( come one come all next will be the half shaft or the CV I bet
The CV's (as in CV, not what the Yanks call a DC joint) are usually used when they need to pull a very high angle out of the tailshaft.

You got lucky though, its defiantely not the first to break and they sometimes smash the gearbox when they go.

Locally, I used to use Metropolitan Driveshafts in Granville. Expensive, but same day turn around. Ive just heard that Spicer in Moorbank are doing DC upgrades and the price sounded good.

[Disco_owner]

The CV's (as in CV, not what the Yanks call a DC joint) are usually used when they need to pull a very high angle out of the tailshaft.

You got lucky though, its defiantely not the first to break and they sometimes smash the gearbox when they go.

Locally, I used to use Metropolitan Driveshafts in Granville. Expensive, but same day turn around. Ive just heard that Spicer in Moorbank are doing DC upgrades and the price sounded good.

Hi Simon ;

Hardy Spicer Rebuilt my rear drive shaft on Disco , cost me $350.00 that was the mount walker weekend that it snapped:D:D

[HAK]

I’ve pulled both drive shafts out this arvo, the rotor flex thing on the rear is like brand new it hasn’t stiffened up as I would imagine it would on a 9 year old fourby but wondering if I should fix that up to

I remember once if I’m not mistaken Slunnies said he got alot of vibration and said that the rotor flex was better option but didn’t preform as well off road.

As for as the front I have smashed the double carden casing where the uni joint clip on

the big question is do I go the whole hog and do both while I’m at it, also keeping in mind a set 34 inch Simex are due any day, Do I spare the cash and wait till the rear one also fails. The problem is due to not having CDL the fourby does not move when the shafts are broken

Knowing that once this is fixed the half shafts or the CV is next
:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(

[Scouse]

on the M4 a vibration followed by larger Vibration then stopped with traffic then started to calmly proceed and nothing no forward no drive no high range no low rangeGo and buy yourself a lottery ticket. We've all seen what can happen when these let go while driving so you are very, very lucky.


I would urge all D2 owners to make this at least a monthly inspection point.

[Yorkie]

scott,
when you say monthly inspection what are we looking for?, i have read the other posts on this matter and nothing is mentioned.
Is it movement or broken metal that is the main thing to keep an eye out for?
cheers
:)

[HAK]

I would suggest make sure there greased up and there no play that why mine broke it dried out and snap :(

[Scouse]

Unfortunately, the genuine shafts don't have greasable DC joints, which is why they fail.

I would say the best way to check is to try & get movement out of the joint, just like a normal universal joint.
There might also be tell tale rust residue around the cross shafts if there is movement.

[Yorkie]

thanks,
when i was under mine last week i have grease nipples at the front end between the uni joint and one on the main shaft, could not find any grease nipples at the t/c end but will check again, suppose this could mean a aftermarket shaft. :)
cheers
yorkie

[Scouse]

That sounds like the standard shaft Yorkie.
It's the double uni joint that doesn't have the grease nippple & that's the one that wears out.

[HAK]

Here’s the deal I went to Shaft place over at Arndell Park and planned to get the most unbreakable shaft known to man kind $2000 later when I told the wife with some excitement I was very quickly deflated :( :angel:

I called around to Grahame Coopers who quoted me $750 for complete shaft less the front yoke or what ever you call it, $60 for each Uni and there being 3a further $110 to change the donut

I then went to Metropolitan Shafts at Granville and they gave me a reco front shaft with greaseable nipples on the double carden new uni on the yokes also greaseable and reco the rear shaft with a balance and a new donut for $700 so I took that option there should be know reason why should brake (NOT) :angel: