Freelander 1 Bearmach Lift Kit

[SuperMono]

EDIT: I should mention this kit is being fitted to a 2002 V6 5 door.

Have begun fitting the long neglected 50mm Bearmach lift kit, not in any hurry so probably take at least a few days to complete.
Only have one strut back in so far but have learnt a few things along the way.

Here are a few images and details of what comes with the Bearmach FL1 50mm strut lift kit.

Fabricated steel (Zinc plated) strut spacers that use 3mm for the horizontal plates and 5mm for the vertical (compression) load bearing plates. So far I have found these are not that well finished (weld spatter around the mounting faces needed filing/grinding) and inconsistent in height. Looks like I might need to face one or two off on the lathe to get the vertical plates nice and flat on the mating surfaces.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/894.jpg

The stud extensions that take the vertical (extension) loads. These are actually too long for the spacers (by 0.3-0.6mm) and vary in length by up to 0.3mm, so require a little lathe time to shorten so that the spacer takes the compression load rather than the stud.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/895.jpg

A Goodrich BA2210 brake line kit, haven't touched this yet.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/896.jpg

A Monroe camber pin kit for the front end, not included apparently but recommended. Appears you can't get full adjustment range as the back of the upright fouls the strut, will check the static camber once all back together and see if this is an issue. If it is then the front struts will need to come out and see if some material can be removed from the uprights.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/897.jpg

The instructions are a bit simple and miss a few items such as having to remove the fuse box and coolant expansion bottle to access the strut fixings (nuts). The steering arms (described as tie rods) foul the standard cut outs and the instructions suggest 'if' they foul (no way they won't) some gentle bending may be required. A bit understated, I found it necessary to cut out rather than bend the metal and cut away some of the plastic lining panel, grinder, saw and file rather than gentle bending.
A couple of hoses may also need to be rerouted and a heat shield needs a gentle adjustment, as I do a bit more I will update and post further details.

[101RRS]

I am surprised that for such a 'Brand Name' how much extra work is required to make it actually fit - eg lathe work on the spacers and studs - not good for a brand name - should fit first time around.

Garry

[SuperMono]

OK the front wheels have found their way back onto the hubs so it is time for an update. I have also written to Bearmach outlining a few issues and requested their response, which will be posted here.

Here is a (dark - sorry) image showing the daylight between the spacer and the strut if you leave the spacer and studs as they are delivered.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/687.jpg

The biggest issue is certainly the fact that lifting the suspension by 50mm means you restrict your steering lock and risk ripping out the fuel lines between the engine and fuel tank. I have already cut away a fair bit of the metal here and yet as you can see, bad news on left lock with the left wheel unloaded.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/688.jpg

The cutouts for the steering arms need to be opened right up (not just bent as per the instructions) and even will still foul with an unloaded wheel. A potentially bigger problem is that the L/H steering arm could crush the fuel leaving you at best stranded and at worst on fire. So rerouting the fuel lines is another task you will need to do. I have done this just on a temporary basis as being plastic I think the best bet is to replace them altogether (anyone done this?).
More images to give you a look & see.
Note that the tie rod is sitting on the box section even though the ball joint is still loose; this is what will happen with an unloaded corner.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/689.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/690.jpg

Here is where the fuel lines used to be and have been moved to for the moment.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/691.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/692.jpg


I have no doubt that people just bolt this stuff up and probably rarely notice the steering locking up, but it just shouldn't happen.

I haven't decided yet if I will modify the front end to allow full lock under all conditions or shorten the lift spacers all round to avoid the issue.

Will decide after fitting the rear spacers and checking out the wheel alignment, still have to clean up the cutouts and replace the fuel lines one I decide what I'm doing.

More to follow :)

[SuperMono]

Found a PDF document put together by someone in the UK.
Points out the clearance issue but the approach taken in this case is rough as guts based on the images. Looks like they just jumped in with a hacksaw and bashed the excess material over, but left the fuel lines in place.

Good list of tools and consumables required plus a few hints.

http://www.freelanderclub.org/images/pdf_files/liftkitfit.pdf

[beforethevision]

Going well SuperMono!

Its nice to see a report thats done well. I figure if your offering advice it needs to be decent. Yours is damn good!

EDIT: You can cut and relocate the fuel lines, I have. The hard inner of the lines is a PITA but fine to work with after a heat gun.

[SuperMono]

I'm not real keen on cutting the original lines due to some poor previous experience with plastic fuel lines (no fire, just dramas) so will look at full replacement at some point.

Back end is jacked up off the ground, so I better go and start :)

[SuperMono]

Well it's all back in one chunk and seems OK, will book in for wheel and camber adjustment next week.
Getting the rear lifted is a lot simpler as nothing steers and less stuff gets in the way.

Things to note.
Brake lines run through a bracket welded to the rear struts, so undo the unions and fit the new lines, but leave them assembled outside the bracket until you get the struts back in. Then fit the lines where they belong and bleed the brakes.

There is a small amount of play available with the bolts that fix the upright to the rear struts, I used a few levers and clamps to get as much positive camber as I could, looks OK but will confirm once the specialists measure it up.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/640.jpg

When you lift the rear struts you also open up some gaps in the top mount that will let dust in, poke in some foam or insertion rubber before you do everything up tight (see images) unless you like dust.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/641.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/642.jpg

All back together, drives OK, will update once the alignment is done.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/491.jpg


Forgot to mention.
This is now a 49.6mm lift kit, I shortened all of the studs and plates to the same length.

[101RRS]

The tyres now look too small - you need some decent high profile muddies to give it a more macho look:cool:

Garry

[SuperMono]

I don't think I could use macho and Freelander in the same sentence whilst keeping a straight face:o

As it happens I do have a set of 17 inch wheels that are currently shod with low profile road tyres.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/627.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/628.jpg

As the Freebie has been retired as my daily drive (replaced by a Smart Roadster) I could plug something chunky in a 17inch under the wheel arches.
Getting the torque to turn them might be a problem though, unless that old supercharger in the shed could be screwed on...............

[beforethevision]

Nice report!

The v6 has waay less probs turning bigger tyres. I dont think my 1.8L would make it up a sloped suburban street with bigger tyres.
Also, the choice of tyres is HUGE once you pick some E'x' series Falcon steel wheels in 15". They give a wider track also.

Cheers!

[101RRS]

I don't think I could use macho and Freelander in the same sentence whilst keeping a straight face:o


Ok - what about "less gay" then:o

[beforethevision]

Ok - what about "less gay" then:o

Classic!

[SuperMono]

Now I'm getting a little concerned, why would my poor little Freebie be unhappy (less gay)?
:p

[beforethevision]

Now I'm getting a little concerned, why would my poor little Freebie be unhappy (less gay)?
:p

Of course, all 'serious' 4WD's have atleast 2" lift. The little freebie can't be both 'gay' and 'serious' now can he???

hahahaha

Cheers!

[SuperMono]

OK time for an update now that the wheel alignment has been checked.
Firstly let me correct my earlier post about getting as much 'positive' camber as I could when assembling the suspension.
I did mean 'negative' camber that is the bottom of the wheel being further out than the top of the wheel.

This is the factory alignment and camber spec for the Freelander.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/456.jpg

The Camber spec front and rear is pretty neutral, 0.25 degrees negative for the front and 0.5 degrees for the rear. Having adjusted the front camber pins to maximum negative camber on assembly and pushing all the clearance on the rear upright bolts the camber was within factory spec.
Front camber pretty much spot on, we settled on 0.4 degrees negative for an initial setting and will see how that goes for a few weeks.
The rear is reduced to about 0.1 degrees, still within spec but pretty neutral, will decide in a few weeks if camber pins should be fitted to the rear and some more camber cranked in.

Front was toeing out by 32mm due to the increased angle on the steering arms from the lift, suggest screwing these out by about 8-10mm each during assembly to bring them back closer to the mark. The suspension guy I used for the alignment suggested pulling the toe out back to 0mm based on the camber and lift. That is still within factory spec and will see how that goes.

So it is all back together, wheels are aligned, camber checked; time to try it all out off road :)

[bonti]

So did you use the Monroe "magic camber" pins??

[SuperMono]

Yep that is the ones, part number is at home and I will add this later.

[bonti]

They worked for you then I assume.

After I fitted the kit, I took the car to get the camber sorted (wasn't confident to do that myself), and was told that they could not get the pins to do anything useful. They set up the camber to be within what they felt was acceptable - when you look at the car it appears to be excessive, but after 20,000k with it set up like that there is only minimal uneven tyre wear. I would prefer to get it spot on though!

[SuperMono]

Do you have the 50mm Bearmach kit fitted then?

If so how did you go with the clearance and manufacturing/quality issues?

Mine has enough adjustment to get back into factory spec, but only just really so it wouldn't surprise me that normal manufacturing tolerances might mean you cant get back into spec.
I had a look at the uprights and you could remove some excess material to allow greater adjustment back onto the strut if you really need to.

[bonti]

Yes I do have the kit, but I think that my engineering standards are somewhat lower than yours - if I said that I checked the tolerences on the manufacturing before I fitted it, I would be lying.

Did have to cut away a bit of material, but not too much. At first I thought that the fuel lines would be in danger of being fouled, but with everything bolted back together it was not an issue - there is plenty clearance even at full drop

Speaking of clearance - you can now drive places you couldn't before.

Are you in Sydney by any chance - who did you get to do your alignment?

[SuperMono]

I'm in Melbourne and used a Bridgestone place I have used previously on a few cars, generally what they have setup works and the tyres have worn well.

Regarding standard, it would be fair to say I can be a bit pedantic about engineering standards and workmanship at times.

I am surprised you had enough clearance with the fuel lines, was that at full lock and with the wheel of the ground?

[SuperMono]

Seems I have let some of the grease out of the CVs, wasn't apparent when I put everything together but I know have just a tiny bit sprayed around on the left (onto the exhaust, so I went looking for the source of the smell) and a not insubstantial amount on the right.

I just removed the right-hand wheel and had a good look and feel around, no rips that I can see and the boot all seems intact and sitting in the right place.
All I can think of is that with all the pushing and pulling that results getting the suspension back together I have somehow managed to pressurise the boot and push some grease out.
:thumbsdown:

Have cleaned it all up and will have a look after I do a couple of short runs.
If more grease is apparent I might send it off to the man f to put on the hoist and have a look.
Nearly due for a service anyway.

[beforethevision]

I had a inner CV playing up at the front a few years back. I undid the clip with a hacksaw (the permanent ones), cleaned it all out, dumped a XXXXload of new CV grease in there and did it back up with a jubilee clip. Still good today.

Cheers!

[SuperMono]

This is the inner CVs I'm talking about.

Just did about 20km and not sure if any fresh grease has appeared after my clean up, there is still a bit about but I didn't remove everything that was there in the 1st place.
I might wash it all down again and put a few more metres under the tyres over the weekend.

[SuperMono]

Well nothing has fallen off or broken and the additional clearance has proven useful. Your average rut is no longer an issue but you still need care when a flock of 4WD dinosaurs has been through tearing things up.
The additional clearance was put to work at a recent LORCV trial and nothing went bang or got left behind over any of the courses.
You can see the extra space between the wheels and body here with the front wheel extended while working through some holes in a gully.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/25.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/12047)

[beforethevision]

Looks good!

v6 from the looks?

[TyGras]

Looks very good... Need to do that to mine for sure....
Only problem will be the tyres will look to small... and I only have 5,000 km on them...
Guess I could keep them for the street and get a second set with rims for play.

[SuperMono]

Yes, V6 with small tyres.
I have two sets of rims at the moment with 17s and low profile tyres for the road and the little 15s with M&S for the dirt. Tossing up what to do but for the moment will leave things as they are tyre wise.
Reluctant to go overboard with diameter only to suffer from the taller gearing (hill descent mainly).

[Mockery]

Hi, did you end up using the brake lines mentioned in the initial post? If not, why are these supposedly needed? I know about braided steel giving a better feel and less swelling under pressure (have them on my bike) but are those lines any longer than the original?

[SuperMono]

Yes I fitted the longer brake lines; you could probably leave the originals if you were desperate. When I looked at the setup before fitting the front lines I was concerned about stressing the unions leading to failure. Also a risk of snagging the original lines with the additional geometry.

[SuperMono]

Here is another update on the trials and tribulations of fitting the (just bolts on) 50mm lift kit from Bearmach.
Decided to go look for the source of the new noises that have become apparent since fitting the lift kit. Grinding/resonant/exhaust noise under load in low gears and 'clank bang' when going over speed humps, steps and bumps.

Found that yet again the kit and design has a lot of problems not described or probably even known by Bearmach (as they just buy this in from a contractor).

When you lift the suspension the anti-roll bar is rotated by whatever 50mm causes and comes into contact with the exhaust.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/242.jpg

The links are now about 30mm too long, I have just fitted some temporary brackets to see how it all goes, then will replace or shorten the links.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/244.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/243.jpg

Bah, Humbug!

Got an email replay from Bearmacj recently after much prompting.
Hi Stephen,

Regarding the points you have raised with this kit I now have some answers for you.
Our accessory catalogue will be amended to say cutting of the bodywork is required instead of minor bending! Also the manufacturer of the plates and studs has been dropped as a preffered supplier and a tender for a new supplier has been issued,this means we are looking for better quality and finish from a couple of different companies. The instructions in the kit are going to be amended also with the cutting issue. We are also looking into the fuel pipe issue,which hopefully will be resolved asap.
Thank you for bringing these points to our attention as Bearmach wish to be regarded as a quality assured supplier and obviously the kit in question has failed to come up to this mark.Our QC dept has been made aware of this also and future errors will not be tolerated within the company.
Best regards
Jason

No mention of what they intend to do about selling goods that are not fit for purpose.

I uploaded images to the gallery but for some reason I can't get them to stay visible, they pop up during preview then vanish. Will revisit and try and post later.

[beforethevision]

Interesting. The sway bar issue was one of my biggest concerns when designing the FL2 lift kit for djhampson. Let me know how it goes. My thoughts were to sleeve and reweld them, but there may be other options.

cheers!

[SuperMono]

I'll try on the images again.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/242.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/12355) https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/243.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/12354) https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/244.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/12353)

My thoughts are to have a look down at the wreckers and see if anything close jumps out. Probably end up with the cut, sleeve and weld approach in the end.
At the moment I have just knocked up some farmers brackets that rotate the bar up to clear the exhaust. Seems to be OK and all of the noise has gone, next week I will be doing a couple of day runs and after that will look at something more permanent.

A quick question: Anyone run their Freebie without the front bar fitted?
Obviously will detract from on road handling, perhaps a little loose, but should be an improvement for off road work.

[beforethevision]

I don't think I would risk running it minus front sway bar. It may not make much difference to handling, but it makes a world of difference to an insurance assessor.

I think a better sized item, or a cut and sleeve is probably best.

Cheers!

EDIT: not cool. I had to cut my sump armour short because the sway bar was too low and rattled on the plate. The 1.8 exhaust is smaller and i had heaps of clearance. I should just have bought more lift :P.

[TyGras]

I don't think I would risk running it minus front sway bar. It may not make much difference to handling, but it makes a world of difference to an insurance assessor.

I think a better sized item, or a cut and sleeve is probably best.

Cheers!

EDIT: not cool. I had to cut my sump armour short because the sway bar was too low and rattled on the plate. The 1.8 exhaust is smaller and i had heaps of clearance. I should just have bought more lift :P.

How much more lift can you get?

[beforethevision]

Before losing a CV? supposedly around 2" spacer and 1" spring.

Between spacers, springs and tyres you can get a FL 4" further from the ground. I cant imagine the wear and tear on drive train components tho.

Cheers!

[pentan]

Hi Supermono
I have just come over to Perth and in need of a service and timing belt change.
can you recommend a reasonably priced mechanic.
I am in Freo at the moment.

Thanks
Pentan

[SuperMono]

Sure, but you will need to ship the Freebie back to Melbourne to be in the same place as my recommended mechanic.

Good reminder to update my profile though (Location = Victoria).

[101RRS]

I thought the 6 cyl had a timing chain that does not need changing unless it is rooted.

Garry

[Mockery]

So, your drop-links only need extending because of the exhaust interference, or is that something which had to be done anyway?
Is there a measurement I can make to check whether the exhaust will be affected on a td4? I guess I could take off my drop-links and see how far the ends can fall before anything is contacted...

[SuperMono]

Wouldn't know for a TD4, my guess is that although the exhaust will be different it will be similar in relationship to clearance from the anti-roll bar.
Have a look at the clearance with all wheel on the ground, compare with clearance with the vehicle jacked so that both front wheels are off the ground at full extension.
Not much clearance left?
Then any lift will probably make the two come into contact and the links will need shortening.
:thumbsdown:

As to the question on timing belts: The V6 has 3 camshaft drive belts. 1 long belt to drive the inlet cams, then 2 short belts to drive the exhaust cams (as I understand it).

[Mockery]

I had the thought today that maybe a big stud-extender type thing could be fitted on the tie-rod end, to lift the steering rods up by the same amount that the strut is spaced down. That should negate the clearance issues there, just need to engineer it strong enough that flex is acceptable, or negligible.

Next problem: CV joints reaching the limit of their usefulness, replace with Thompson couplings - Thompson Couplings Ltd (http://www.thompsoncouplings.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=36&Itemid=58)
I fully realise this would be no trivial task, but I'm interested enough to make some very tentative enquiries...
Apparently the units themselves are actually cheaper to make than the standard Rzeppa joint in normal CV's, need to figure out the fit which is the tricky part.
*WARNING* this is all probably a good way to void your warranty and/or insurance cover!

what was the other bit? drop-links.
cut 'em in half with an axe, stick em back shorter with duct tape.
(well no, but if you got the other stuff done first these would be a mere flea-bite, as the saying goes...)

It's not going to happen tomorrow, and won't be accomplished with pocket change, but a man can dream, can't he?

[kahuna]

Hi Mockery.

Is it too late to ask you to measure the spacers? I'd like to make mines myself, in machine shop. Don't think $350 is a decent price for those. And I'd go with 30mm lift.

[SuperMono]

Which spacers?

If you are talking about the spacers that lift the suspension, then a 30mm spacer will give you close enough to 30mm lift.

Making them yourself you will need to drop out 1 front and 1 rear strut to work out the spacer dimensions for diameter, studs and clearances. You will also need some camber adjusting pins for the front and probably longer brake lines. Suspect at 30mm you still need to cut away some metal to clear the steering arms. You might get away with the swaybar clearance.

Or just buy my Freebie which is completely sorted and due to some recent hail damage just been partially resprayed and has a new bonnet.

[SuperMono]

The missing update :)

I did end up shortening the drop links so that the anti-roll bar no longer touched the exhaust. Sorry I don't recall how much I shortened them, it was perhaps 20-25mm.

Cut, sleeved, welded, cleaned up, painted, fitted, never an issue.
Note: You need to be very careful when welding or you will burn the plastic ends out of the links. I used sleeves with holes in them and welded up the holes very slowly with many halts to cool off.

Sold during 2010.
FYI for the RWC I had to refit the original brake hoses, modified the brackets a bit so the unions were not stressed.