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cewilson
5th October 2008, 05:03 PM
I went into Bunnings today to check out a few bits and pieces I am after. I am planning on placing a bit of wood across the wheel arches to span the gap so I can place some containers underneath. I'm not doing a drawer system as such, just creating a space to make it easier to access items.

Now old matey at Bunnings said that MDF is a bad idea, as when it gets wet it soaks up the fluid. He said to go with non-structural form ply instead. Now this stuff is twice the cost of MDF.

I don't mind the cost, but I'm more worried about the load carry capability of it. In the MDF I was looking at 18mm, as it'd have to support my 80litre Waeco loaded, plus other items. The form ply was only 16mm. And with regards to the MDF getting wet, I am going to cover it in marine carpet which I thought would negate that problem a lot.

I'm hoping that someone here has crossed this bridge already and may be able to give me some advice on this.

Cheers
Chris

lnd130
5th October 2008, 05:13 PM
go the form ply its stronger takes a screw better than mdf and doesnt deform with excess moisture or heat like mdf .but your definately going to have to provide a strut or division for the loaded weight of your fridge

sorefeetseepete
5th October 2008, 06:36 PM
Hi, first ever reply to a post so I hope this helps. I have the new defender where the configuration is a little different in the back. I think the older 110's have a square section whereas the new ones have a bevelled edge. I used 25mm ply as when at the shop anything else bent under load, especially a 80l fridge. A bit heavier but anything else and you'll be disappointed and replacing it anyway down the track. I placed a support inbetween the wheel arches as I also put in a drawer and needed a side for the drawer runner. I placed this as far as possible to the door hinges to make the drawer as wide as possible and store poles there on trips away. If not using a drawer you could put a support in the middle. i used an angle of aluminium riveted to the floor and screwed timber to that. I did just use the 25mm ply for a few weeks without any support and that seemed ok but i transport some pretty heavy loads at times.
I waterproofed the ply and then covered with carpet. I did do a post (my only one) I hope some of it helps but so far am very happy. Do it better and do it once. I hope all goes well.

Michael2
5th October 2008, 10:53 PM
You can get some right angle aluminium and pop rivet it to the wheel arches, just lower than the shelf, then you can rest the shelf on the right angle and it fits snuggly between the wheel arches with the top being flush with the wheel arches.

This design means
(1) less material
(2) less cost
(3) less weight
(4) easier to remove
(5) won't wriggle [ to further prevent wriggling, you can use a self taper at each corner, through the ply and into the top of the right angle to hold it down.

You can go for thinner ply and laminate some 2mm chequer plate aluminium to the top for added strength and durability.

The right angle need only be 10mm wide.

Trout
8th October 2008, 09:03 PM
I scored some aluminium checker plate about 5 mm thick (was a mezzanie floor in a abbotoir). Just strengthened it up with some steel angle on the front and back edge. Works a treat and looks the part.