Post photo of side of D1 update headunit

[MSkinner]

And my dramas with this stereo install continue!

I tried pulling the head unit from the dash yesterday. I fashioned some 'U' looking wires from a coathanger to put into the holes to release it from the cage. One side came free, the other didn't. I tried re-inserting the wire half a dozen times and it still wouldn't budge. The problem is, I don't know what the side of the head unit looks like to imagine what's happened in there.

Can anyone please post a photo of the side and front profile of one of these head units so I can try to come up with a solution?

Much appreciated.

[Hastykiwi]

Have u got ur head unit out? If not let me know.

NIck.

[MSkinner]

Have u got ur head unit out? If not let me know.

NIck.

No I haven't mate. Kinda gave up on the audio side of things while I sorted out my wheels and suspension. I'm still keen to though. What do you have in mind?

[Utemad]

When you insert the coat hangar wire or whatever you use, push them outwards (so the bits inside the dash pivot inwards to the unit). This will help release the clips.
The correct tools to do this also have indented hook things in the ends that will grip the unit when you push outwards and pull on them.

It is a 2 sec job with the right tools but not much longer without them.

[Hastykiwi]

Ok You can see from the photos what the setup is. The fork shaped tab catches the mounting cradle just behind the face of the stereo. In pic 227 u can see the bottom of the wire prong i am using about to touch the bottom of the spring tab. It will slide over it, push it towards the body of the stereo, and away from the mounting cradle, releasing the stereo. In pic 226 u can see both ends of the removal tool have slid to the correct position over the upper and lower parts of the tab. U should not have to push inwards. Obviously u can see that the prongs cannot be inserted heading up or down, otherwise they will miss the tracks on the tabs. Your prongs need to be reasonably stiff wire, but while the factory ones are slotted as Utemad said this is not esential if u have the tape head unit, just grab it and pull. Will not take much effort if prongs are inserted correctly.


Nick

[Hastykiwi]

I should add that this is a D2 headunit, but the principle is the same for D1. The tabs may be flat rather than pronged, face the other direction etc, but same idea. If there r flat tabs then stiff wire is more important as the tabs may require more force to flatten.

Nick.