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LandyAndy
12th October 2008, 06:44 PM
Can anybody tell me how you can tell the difference between a Stage1 diff and a standard one without having to dismantle anything.I am aware of the stronger CVs and 3.54diffs.
I may have sold 1 of my Stage1s,the remaining one is under question.The person who sold it to my brother was of questionable mentality,lots of really weird/stupid things done,one includes fitting FREE WHEELING HUBS:eek::eek::eek::eek:.
Is there a casting stamp anywhere on the axle????
Ive compared the 3 Ser3 Landies I have,all 3 look very similar(one isnt a Stage1).
Thanks
Andrew

Lotz-A-Landies
12th October 2008, 07:21 PM
The standard SIII 109 F/W hubs will fit onto a stage 1 front end, same 24 spline drive flanges etc. (Did he do that on an LT95 g/box?)

My understanding is that the only way you can tell the difference is to take the swivel apart and have a look for a spicer or CV halfshaft.

JDNSW
12th October 2008, 07:37 PM
I agree with Diana - I think that externally they are almost identical. You can find the diff ratio by counting turns - assuming off the vehicle, lock one hub (e.g. adjust brake to hard on) and count the number of turns of the pinion for one turn of the other hub - double the number to get the ratio. Distinguishing between 4.7 and 3.54 would not require great accuracy.

John

LandyAndy
12th October 2008, 07:40 PM
Thanks Diana.
YEP,LT95,cant understand why.It appears nothing has actually been removed(ie all suspension bolts look Series old).When we but it on the trailer we had to back it up in gear on the startermotor as its a non goer,it wouldnt move,locked the hubs and away she went.
How about the 2 superchargers complete with MADMAX style gearshifter switch:eek::eek::eek::eek:.The superchargers were a pair of demister fans feeding the aircleaner,I KID YOU NOT.
He liked air horns too,two sets,arieals and some other "interesting" stuff.
Andrew

Lotz-A-Landies
12th October 2008, 08:07 PM
I agree with Diana - I think that externally they are almost identical. You can find the diff ratio by counting turns - ...

John
John you are correct about identifying the diff ratio, but it won't help with the CV joints.

If you look at tardis' SIIB camper, I am convinced that it is running a Range Rover front end with a Series 4.7:1 Series diff. so a CV joint and 4.7 ratio, the same as my red SIIB has Stage 1 swivels and CVs and the ENV 4.7:1 diff.

I can not see any other way to confirm the presence of CVs on a non goer than to crack open one swivel and take a look. :(

Diana

JDNSW
12th October 2008, 08:26 PM
John you are correct about identifying the diff ratio, but it won't help with the CV joints.

If you look at tardis' SIIB camper, I am convinced that it is running a Range Rover front end with a Series 4.7:1 Series diff. so a CV joint and 4.7 ratio, the same as my red SIIB has Stage 1 swivels and CVs and the ENV 4.7:1 diff.

I can not see any other way to confirm the presence of CVs on a non goer than to crack open one swivel and take a look. :(

Diana

How about this - proceed as for diff ratio measurement, but turn on full lock.

If there is a wheel and tyre fitted, mark with chalk on the tyre each quarter turn of the pinion. For the CV joint, all marks will be the same spacing, for a cross and bearing joint there will be a measurable difference in the space between the marks, as the wheel speeds up and slows down twice per turn of the wheel

John

Lotz-A-Landies
12th October 2008, 08:39 PM
It could work, but I would want to do the same thing on a couple of known vehicles to compare the difference between the CV joints and spicer joints.

Bigbjorn
12th October 2008, 10:19 PM
Would I be correct in thinking that with free wheeling hubs and an LT95 that you would have to engage the centre diff lock to move if the hubs were disengaged?

LandyAndy
12th October 2008, 10:34 PM
YEP,mentioned that in the second post.
Andrew

isuzurover
13th October 2008, 12:55 AM
Andy,

The only external way to tell for sure is to check the angle of the pinion.

The stage 1 axle is rotated so the pinion is higher and points to the t-case output (similar to the angle on your disco). Whereas a series is lower - compare the stage 1 to your series and see if they are different.

Still no 100% guarantee it has CVs though.

Lotz-A-Landies
13th October 2008, 01:17 AM
Would I be correct in thinking that with free wheeling hubs and an LT95 that you would have to engage the centre diff lock to move if the hubs were disengaged?
It'd be better than a "crooklock" if you had a handbrake working on the wheels and not the gearbox.

LandyAndy
13th October 2008, 08:01 PM
Hi Ben
The wagon seems to have a better pinion angle,but it also has army hangers that you would expect to negate it somewhat.The van springs are sad so that would also negate the angle I guess.Cant really compare to the Toy in the shed,I have extended the dumb irons army style and used army hangers.
The van still has its D2 style front driveshaft,no wonder they fail on a D2,borowed from the series part bin
Andrew

Lotz-A-Landies
13th October 2008, 09:29 PM
Hi Ben...

...The van still has its D2 style front driveshaft,no wonder they fail on a D2,borowed from the series part bin
Andrew
Andrew

I think you've got that wrong. The double cardan joint on the D2 can't be lubricated in service. I would be very surprised if that were the case with the double cardan on the Stage 1 or almost any other vehicle that uses them like Isuzu trucks.

isuzurover
14th October 2008, 01:45 AM
Hi Ben
The wagon seems to have a better pinion angle,but it also has army hangers that you would expect to negate it somewhat.The van springs are sad so that would also negate the angle I guess.Cant really compare to the Toy in the shed,I have extended the dumb irons army style and used army hangers.
The van still has its D2 style front driveshaft,no wonder they fail on a D2,borowed from the series part bin
Andrew

Andy - compare the angle of the pinion to the position of the spring pads. Or the angle of the diff pan to same.

The DC joint in a stage 1 is quite durable.

wovenrovings
14th October 2008, 08:25 AM
So a stage 1 is supposed to have a double cardan joint on the driveshaft to the front diff?

Lotz-A-Landies
14th October 2008, 08:56 AM
So a stage 1 is supposed to have a double cardan joint on the driveshaft to the front diff?
Yes that's correct.

LandyAndy
14th October 2008, 09:42 PM
Diana,that was a dig at the manufacturer!!!!
Now you have mentioned it I will crawl under both Stage 1s and see if I can surprise you!!!!
Dont know what Isuzu has to do with it,BOTH these are V8s.
Andrew

agrojnr
14th October 2008, 10:25 PM
Don't steal any parts now will ya:cool:

Adam

LandyAndy
15th October 2008, 09:19 PM
No Adam I wouldnt.Just was hoping to confirm that it was the standard front diff in the other one.The 302 LOVED 4.7 diffs,but at 130ks was screaming hard.Now one is gone hope to build a tough ute out of the pig van and my toy,ONEDAY:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew