4BD1 Alternator

[DRanged]

A while back someone had an Isuzu p/n for a 100 amp or bigger alternator. Anyone still have it????

Thanks in advance
Justin

[justinc]

A while back someone had an Isuzu p/n for a 100 amp or bigger alternator. Anyone still have it????

Thanks in advance
Justin

Hey Justo,

Maggot and I both have the same alternator, I can't see in the dark to give you the part number, I'll have a look tomorrow at work and get back to you. It is a Denso 120A internal regulator one, came complete with vac pump etc and bolted straight up to my 1988 county engne. About $650 bills though, but I figure get a good one ONCE.:)

JC

[DRanged]

Hey Justo,

Maggot and I both have the same alternator, I can't see in the dark to give you the part number, I'll have a look tomorrow at work and get back to you. It is a Denso 120A internal regulator one, came complete with vac pump etc and bolted straight up to my 1988 county engne. About $650 bills though, but I figure get a good one ONCE.:)

JC

JC, JL here

Many thanks mate I,ll buy you a beer once I get our Tassie adventure organised.;)

JL

[isuzurover]

PN would be good JC!

Where did you get it from? Ingrams?

[justinc]

Doh! I forgot to check today, and I drove a Suburban home tonight and left the RR at work.:eek:

I'll check it out tomorrow guys, sorry about that:(

I got it from AEA, they have a QLD branch, (07) 3277 4566

JC

[justinc]

OK you lot, sorry I took so long but here it is.

It is a HITACHI, not a Denso, and it's part number is ALT160502
120Amp 12V 'N' series.

It is a branded part number from AEA, give them a call and quote the part number, it cost me about $650 from memory incl freight.
Came with VAC pump and so far has performed beautifully. Being Hitachi I expect it to last a Long time:D



JC

[rovercare]

Nothing like Japenese electrics, hey JC:angel:



:D

[EchiDna]

ok I'll be the bastido...

what's the hitachi part number?

[justinc]

ok I'll be the bastido...

what's the hitachi part number?

Not sure spiky one, I'm not into pealing stickers off yet, Might have a peak around and see if there are any other numbers...:)

JC

[EchiDna]

no worries, I can get hitachi stuff easy enough - might have to hit the catalogues...

[flagg]

Did anyone ever find out what the hitachi number for this one was? With the dollar the way it is it could be worth tracking one down overseas.....

Cheers,
Dec

[Bigbjorn]

no worries, I can get hitachi stuff easy enough - might have to hit the catalogues...

or try our old mate, Chop Hock Hong?

[Albert]

I have just got the hitachi LR170-401 70A that came on the 4BD1T from the US, $175 delivered.
I got it from "Starters Alternators (teamgri@yahoo.com)"
I havn't fitted it yet, can anybody tell me what wires go to where from the alt plug?:(
The 40A had a external alt so I will have to rewire it.

[EchiDna]

or try our old mate, Chop Hock Hong?

you got it Brian :)

those blokes have every conceivable Isuzu engine part for trucks in stock... 12volt, not so common, but maybe just maybe...

[Bush65]

I have just got the hitachi LR170-401 70A that came on the 4BD1T from the US, $175 delivered.
I got it from "Starters Alternators (teamgri@yahoo.com)"
I havn't fitted it yet, can anybody tell me what wires go to where from the alt plug?:(
The 40A had a external alt so I will have to rewire it.
Following is some information that might help. Note this is based on the USA version of the Isuzu truck so applicable for your alternator, but wiring circuits would be different in a Land Rover.


The alternator connections are very simple. The standard Isuzu alternator has an integral regulator which makes it even easier to wire up. Check Fig. 9 on page 6D-14 of the FSM for detailed wiring.

Basically, you have three wires going to a round connector on the back of the alternator plus a heavy black wire (B) going to the output stud also on the back of the alternator. This black wire should be heavy enough to handle the full alternator output (70 A) and goes directly to the (+) of the battery (might be a good idea to protect it with a fusible link or big fuse). The black wire (S) from the round connector also goes directly to the (+) of the battery. It serves to sense the actual voltage at the battery which the regulator uses to control the output voltage of the alternator. The white wire (IG) from the round connector goes to the ignition switch and should be hot only when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. This wire turns the charging system on and off. The white with blue stripe (L) is used to control the "Charge" indicator light and is optional. When the alternator is charging, the (L) wire is hot and turns on the "charge indicator relay". Since the indicator light is wired through the normally closed set of contacts on the relay, when the relay is turned on, the indicator light goes out. Hope that makes sense.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/296.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/673.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/674.jpg

[OLR-067]

Having a problem with battery light staying on after shut down, sometimes whilst driving. Alternator seems to be ok, only 2 years old, 13.85v at idle at battery. Seems to be a loose connection, can hear a relay clicking when rock truck, light flickers. Bit hard to isolate where it is coming from. Would this be the charge lamp relay. If so where is it. Need to pull all the old A/C out at some stage, just a clutter on LHS. Not familiar with the dark arts so any ideas etc would be great.

Cheers
Paul

[flagg]

Just wired up a 70A as per Bush65's diagram.. it is now measuring 15.6V at idle - is that too much?

[justinc]

Just wired up a 70A as per Bush65's diagram.. it is now measuring 15.6V at idle - is that too much?

yes:( sounds like the reg isn't regulating:(

JC

[flagg]

Could it be that I've wired it up incorrectly?

Instead of white and white + blue it was White + bluey green and white + bluey black. I may have them the wrong way around..

[steveG]

Regardless of the colours, you can check which wire is which pretty easily.
Disconnect them all from the alternator (apart from the big B+ output wire as that's pretty obvious) and make sure they cant short out on anything.

With ignition off, the only one that should have 12v is the battery sense wire.

With ignition on, you will get 12v on both the IGN and charge lamp wires.

To work out which one is which, use a decent size 12v bulb (I used an old motorbike headlight bulb), and connect between each of the 2 wires and earth. The wire that lights the lamp is the IGN wire.
The remaining wire will be the charge light one. Even though it has 12v on it, with the charge light in the circuit it cant pass enough current to light the test bulb.

With the ignition on, you should also be able to touch the charge light wire to earth and the charge/battery light will come on in the dash which confirms you've got the correct wire. Only do that once you've done the light bulb test to identify it though - don't be tempted to just touch each wire to earth to see which one makes the light come on.

Steve

[isuzurover]

Grave dig here - anyone bought a 120A alt recently? Price and supplier?

[flagg]

It's in the part numbers sticky :)


EDIT: sorry, I thought that was /part number/ and supplier. 12 months ago a place in sydney wanted 700 or so for one... So I went for a 70a.

[isuzurover]

It's in the part numbers sticky :)


EDIT: sorry, I thought that was /part number/ and supplier. 12 months ago a place in sydney wanted 700 or so for one... So I went for a 70a.

The part number is also at the start of this thread ;)

I just called AEA (Perth) and quoted JC's part number. They told me there are none in the whole of Australia and they have NFI when any more will be coming in...

Specs:


ALT160502

Replaces Hitachi
12V 120amp Internally Regulated
Weight : 8kg Volume: N/A
Catalogue Page: 175
Alternative Parts: N/A

Voltage: 12V
Amperage: 120amp
Reg Type: Internally Regulated
Mount Type: Twin Foot
Pulley Type: 1B
Pulley OD: 82mm
Shaft Dia: 17mm

Centre to Centre: 170mm
Inside Leg: 85mm
Leg Measurement: 0mm
Adj Leg Hole Dia: M8mm
Front Mt Hole Dia: 10mm
Rear Mt Hole Dia: 10mm
Notes :
Product Description
Jackaroo & Rodeo TF with 4JA-1,4JB1-T eng''s 88-on,ISUZU "N" Series with 4BE1,4JA1 & 4JG2 eng''s 84-on

[lokka]

Ben have you looked at this option im fairly sure they fit i was going to replace mine but found it was ok

NEW ALTERNATOR 86 87 88 89 90 ISUZU NPR 3.9 4BD1 ENGINE | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-86-87-88-89-90-ISUZU-NPR-3-9-4BD1-ENGINE-/110787948654?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item19cb79f06e)

[isuzurover]

Ben have you looked at this option im fairly sure they fit i was going to replace mine but found it was ok

NEW ALTERNATOR 86 87 88 89 90 ISUZU NPR 3.9 4BD1 ENGINE | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-86-87-88-89-90-ISUZU-NPR-3-9-4BD1-ENGINE-/110787948654?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item19cb79f06e)

Yes I have seen them - there seem to be plenty around, however 120A would be a lot better than 70A!

[lokka]

Same mob do a 120 tho it dosent say its for the 4bd1 tho i rekon i could make it fit :twisted:

[lokka]

My bad 110 amp here ya go

NEW ALTERNATOR 03-06 ISUZU TRUCK NPR NQR NRR 4HE1 4.8L 290CI ISUZU DIESEL | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-03-06-ISUZU-TRUCK-NPR-NQR-NRR-4HE1-4-8L-290CI-ISUZU-DIESEL-/120941448016?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item1c28ac0b50)

[lokka]

This matches the the link you posted ben but the price is up there :eek:

12V 120amp Isuzu N Series Holden Rodeo Jackaroo Diesel Vacuum Pump Alternator | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-120amp-Isuzu-N-Series-Holden-Rodeo-Jackaroo-Diesel-Vacuum-Pump-Alternator-/140658628881?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bfe85911)

[steveG]

Stumbled across these ones today from Patrolapart for $475 that might do the job:
Product Details - Patrolapart - Specialist Patrol Dismantler / 4x4 Accessories,Parts,Services,Sales (http://www.patrolapart.com.au/products-details.php?productId=938&productCategoryId=60&Level=1)

The P/N and sticker on the side seem to match whats on the AEA site here:
Auto Electrics Australia - Alternator, Starter Motor, Solenoid, Rectifier & Regulator Parts (http://www.pinpoint.aea.com.au/Guest_pc_alt.aspx?pn=ALT3110&id=5156&ptbl=Alternator)

Specs from AEA site:
Voltage: 12V
Amperage: 120amp
Reg Type: Internally Regulated
Mount Type: Twin Foot
Pulley Type: 2A
Pulley OD: 82mm
Shaft Dia: 17mm

Centre to Centre: 175mm
Inside Leg: 80mm
Leg Measurement: 0mm
Adj Leg Hole Dia: M8mm
Front Mt Hole Dia: 10mm
Rear Mt Hole Dia: 10.5mm
Notes : High Output version
Product Description
Navara D21 with 2.7Lt TD27 Diesel eng 88-97,Patrol GQ with 4.2Lt TD42 Diesel eng 88-95,Urvan E24 with 2.7Lt TD27 Diesel eng 87-92

Pulley would need to be changed for a single belt version, and the inside leg measurement is 80mm and center to center 175 (cf 85 and 170 respectively for the ALT160502) but cant see that being a show stopper.

Still quite a few $$$ but a lot less than the ~$800 price I got from AEA for the ALT160502 earlier this year, and still cheaper than the ebay "N" series one if the pulley could be got cheaply.

Steve

[flagg]

Nice. People should remember also that if moving up from the 40a version that they will need to rewire the charge circuit to remove the old ext regulator, and that the black wire in the newer alts is the battery feed, whereas for the old type it is ground. Failure to rewire will result in overcharging and an early death for batteries etc.

[steveG]

This matches the the link you posted ben but the price is up there :eek:

12V 120amp Isuzu N Series Holden Rodeo Jackaroo Diesel Vacuum Pump Alternator | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-120amp-Isuzu-N-Series-Holden-Rodeo-Jackaroo-Diesel-Vacuum-Pump-Alternator-/140658628881?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bfe85911)

Fitted one of those to my County on the weekend. No major drama's but not just a straight swap.

I haven't detailed any wiring changes (since mine's been through V8 to 200tdi to 4bd1 external regulator and now this internal reg one), but here's some notes on the physical side of things:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/167058-120a-alternator-upgrade-2.html#post1877244

Steve

[mattmac]

Have a strange problem with my latest aquisition(1988 land rover isuzu "110" ute) - the battery warning light won't go out even when i remove the wire from back of the alternator and only putting out 12V at battery-alt seems to be wired up correctly. The other strange thing is the fuel gauge reads backwards! I doubt it's related as probably something to do with different sender unit? Its the original hitachi LR170-401 alt.

[steveG]

Have a strange problem with my latest aquisition(1988 land rover isuzu "110" ute) - the battery warning light won't go out even when i remove the wire from back of the alternator and only putting out 12V at battery-alt seems to be wired up correctly. The other strange thing is the fuel gauge reads backwards! I doubt it's related as probably something to do with different sender unit? Its the original hitachi LR170-401 alt.

First thing I'd check would be that you have good earth straps between engine/trans and the chassis. If they look at all dodgy then just replace them. Fit one across the LH engine mount, and another from transfer case to chassis.
All sorts of weird crap happens when you've got bad earths.

Steve

[Bearman]

Have a strange problem with my latest aquisition(1988 land rover isuzu "110" ute) - the battery warning light won't go out even when i remove the wire from back of the alternator and only putting out 12V at battery-alt seems to be wired up correctly. The other strange thing is the fuel gauge reads backwards! I doubt it's related as probably something to do with different sender unit? Its the original hitachi LR170-401 alt.

Matt, I am presuming that is a civvy 110 you are talking about. If so, that alternator was never factory fitted to it, originally they had the 40a one - that number you quoted is the Hitachi 70A model which is only found on army 110's and Isuzu 12V small trucks with the 4BD1T factory fitted. If the light is on and you are only getting 12V at the battery you can safely assume it is NOT charging. You need to get an auto leccy to look at it if all the wiring install looks ok. The fuel gauge problem would be unrelated and most likely earthing or sender problems.

[captainslow]

Matt,
If the connector on your alternator is the one shown below you can do a bit of diagnostics. The L terminal is the output of the diode bridge in the alternator and should have volts on it when the engine is running - it should be a green wire. If you disconnect this from the alternator and connect it to 12V the alternator light should go out. If it does go out then the light circuit is working ok and it's more likely that the alternator is at fault.

The S connection is the Sense line coming back from the battery and should have battery volts on it.

The IG line should have battery volts on it when the ignition switch is turned on.

Good luck
Pete

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/296.jpg

[mattmac]

thanks guys for advice -will check earth straps and wiring test.

[mattmac]

local auto-elec diagnosis - alternator stuffed. looks like i better check flea-bay for a replacement unless anyone knows a place i can get a reasonably priced replacement.

[isuzurover]

local auto-elec diagnosis - alternator stuffed. looks like i better check flea-bay for a replacement unless anyone knows a place i can get a reasonably priced replacement.

There are a lot of similar alternators available. E.g. nissan patrol or holden rodeo both fit i have heard.
When the local auto elec buggered my hitachi 70a they sold me a very similar one for $170.
It only has 2 pins instead of 3 and i had to modify and rotate the vac pump fittings but apart from that was the same. It didn't have a part number so i can't tell you what it is from.

[rar110]

Make sure you look at what side the adjuster bolt goes. I bought a rodeo one that had the adjuster bolt on the right side of the pulley. It worked ok but there was no adjustment left to tighten fan belt.