After Market bits for servicing D2 ?

[landyprincess]

Hi All,
I have a service due and would like to guage the general consensus from folk who have done their own servicing on what aftermarket brands they have used and performed well (longevity).

Specifically after a brand that is good without breaking the bank (single income family here at the moment so $ will rule in the end) as I don't know what's out there and would be ok .... and of course for them to be available from local shops such as your repco, bursons, autobarns etc...

* Oil Brand ?
* Oil Filter Brand
* Air Filter Brand
* Spark Plug Brand
* Brake Pads Brand

---------------------------
The following we are going to check, not sure if they need replacing etc. Input welcomed.
* Leads to Cylinders
* Connection to Spark Plugs ?
---------------------------

Thanks for your help

;)

Lp

[Tombie]

Ryco oil filter is OK, but I'd always fit genuine or Coopers
Genuine or Coopers Air Filter
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Penrite Semi Synthetic Oil
Magnacore leads (fit once and forget for life)
Genuine Brake Pads, if you do not wish to run the '3 Amigos' (doesnt happen to everyone - In fact I run Bendix on Slotted Rotors no problem)

[landyprincess]

Just wanted to mention, no off road for me either at this stage. All highway and local trips - not sure if that makes a diff to the type of brands?

cheers
Lp

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Tombie is spot on,,
but your biggest cost will be the physical replacement of the leads by a pro,, IF required--

you can do them yourself,,
if you have small hands,,

as for leads,, I'm not sure HOW to check them WITHOUT
removing them--

any ideas people??

[landyprincess]

Hi All,
hope you're well...

I'm needing some help please with part numbers or some form of reference number etc . As fantastic as it is - I have gone through the RAVE CD and unless I am missing something can't for the life of me find the information.

Specifically:

** Spark Plugs - NGK Iridium or Platinum. Is there a particular reference number for each of these plugs? Was quoted for Denso at $17.00 each. What's Denso??

** Magnecor Leads. I'd be after the full set. Is 8" standard length or should I need 9"? I have been quoted at 140 for the full set.

** Oil Filter - Genuine - model/part/ref #: ?

** Air Filter - Genuine or model/part/ref #: ?
Coopers - model/part/ref #: ?

** Brake Pads - Lucas or Lockheed? Not sure of the spelling. Are these pretty standard/genuine? ($90 front. $80.00 rear).

BTW - I think my MAF is naffed or is on its last legs so to speak - quoted at $330 new. I'll be giving it a clean with CRC MAF cleaner but think inevitably in the end it will need replacing so have factored that in my 'budget'/. (I've got stacks of info already on MAF and everything relating to MAF from searches done on the forum)

I think all up, including penrite branded oils etc the quote for parts came in at a little over $700.00.

If anyone can help me with part/reference numbers (**) or point me in the direction of where the information is in the RAVE cd that would be reeeeeeealy appreciated :) For the sanity of my back pocket i'd like to call a few other places for quotes but have no idea on the specifics required to relay back!

Thanks,
Lp

[p38arover]

** Spark Plugs - NGK Iridium or Platinum. Is there a particular reference number for each of these plugs? Was quoted for Denso at $17.00 each. What's Denso?? Nippon Denso brand

** Magnecor Leads. I'd be after the full set. Is 8" standard length or should I need 9"? I have been quoted at 140 for the full set. I think you mean 8mm or 9mm diameter. 8mm are fine - I use 8mm

** Oil Filter - Genuine - model/part/ref #: ? ERR3340



That helps a little

[landyprincess]

Thanks for the reply and info and corrections for me :-)

How does the Nippon Denso brand compare to the NGK brand or are they the same?

cheers
Lp

[Pedro_The_Swift]

go NGK.

[landyprincess]

Thanks Pedro, I am glad I ask the questions again - as annoying as it may be perhaps to some :p ....

I've found some of the info on the RAVE CD that I mentioned earlier I couldn't find - however... now I am equally confused.

How do you know whether you have a low compression or high compression engine... which will ultimately determine the viscosity from the chart on the RAVE cd...

Also, the spark plugs that the RAVE Cd refers to are: champion RC11 PYP B4. What's the NGK equivalent of those - does it still make reference to the RC11 or some other alpha/numerical reference?

Thanks again, any help always appreciated!

Cheers

Lp

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

Magnacore leads (fit once and forget for life)


Life....:mad: mine lasted 4 years, the outer insulation perished and crumbled from engine heat. I should have kept the receipt.:mad:
Replaced them with a set of Bosch leads, not going to pay another $140 for Magnacores.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Down on the side of the block (drivers side looking at the car from the front) there will be a small set of stamped numbers,, 8.13 is low comp.

I think all D2a's are hi comp.



Dont dispair if yours is a low comp,, it will run well on ANY pump fuel and is only 8hp short of the hi-comps.

[landyprincess]

mmmm - not fussed either way - at the end of the day reliability and longevity is my concern regardless whether it's hi or low comp - i'd like to keep the landrover for a very very long time yet... i'll sus out the block tomorrow in daylight, too many creepy crawlies out at night round here!

On another note, I got in contact with supercheap and read back the 'recommended' spark plugs from the RAVE CD and asked what the equivalent was with the NGK brand in either the Iridium and platinum. He said that the Iridium wasn't recommended?? The platinum NGK related ref # is: pfr5g11 at $21.75 each if anyone is interested.

They also stock the Sensor Cleaner by CRC for $25.00 (don't think it's called MAF anymore?). Although it's cheaper at Repco for $21.00 believe it or not!

It's taken me a while to trawl through so much valuable information on AULRO and to be honest it has done my head in abit (a pregnant brain can only take so much in!) - it was the oils section that got me :eek: so think I will just be sticking to penrite and what ever is recommended in RAVE

Anyway - my landrover has hit a little over 231,000K and since having it for almost 12 months (mind you i've not even done 5000k in it!!) my list of TLC so far is:

1. oil / fluid changes
2. filter changes
3. new spark plugs
4. maybe new leads although the look pretty new... are leads stamped anywhere as to what manufacturer they are???
5. clean maf, test/diagnose and replace if necessary w/ new
6. check brake pads front/rear - replace if required
7. intermittent SRS airbag light -
8. driver side parker bulb blown again. not sure whether it's an electrical short somewhere but there is water getting into the lens so may need to look at those (seal or electrics)
9. replace clock bulb
10. cruise control needs checking as it 'use' to work
11. my own sanity check of each and every single fuse and replace if need be
12. windscreen washer reservoir - it doesn't like being filled to the top and just runs out from the bottom but still has water left in it so not sure what's going on there?
13. fuel filler flap release very intermittently gets stuck
14. new tyres - end of financial year as I think they have good deals on then
15. Also ran scanguage and received some fault codes relating to running rich/lean (which 'could' be related to MAF').

I know some of these are very minor but it's my to do list... given the amount of k's - are there 'other' things that we should be looking at?

cheers

Lp

[landyprincess]

Down on the side of the block (drivers side looking at the car from the front) there will be a small set of stamped numbers,, 8.13 is low comp.


i've had a look at the block and for the life of me cannot find any numerical reference on the lhs of the block if looking at if from the front?? The block is fairly clean aside from a little grease so from the sparkplugs up definately can't see anything stamped anywhere?? Would it be stamped anywhere else?

thanks

Lp

[Ken]

i've had a look at the block and for the life of me cannot find any numerical reference on the lhs of the block if looking at if from the front?? The block is fairly clean aside from a little grease so from the sparkplugs up definately can't see anything stamped anywhere?? Would it be stamped anywhere else?

thanks

Lp

Its on the passenger side of the block where the head and block bolt together keep looking youll find it ;)

[simonl8353]

If your Cruise Control has packed up, it is most likely the piece of hose (8mm I think) from the vacuum pump to the diaphragm. You can get replacement from Supercheap for around $2.00 (they may want you to buy 1m at around $7) This ageing hose can crack from the heat thus rendering the vacuum operated diaphragm useless.

Check in your Rave CD under Workshop Manual, Engine Management System, Description and Operation, Cruise Control Component Layout section for diagrams and description.

This simple piece of new hose repaired my Cruise Control about 3 months ago. Take the old one in to size it correctly. It can be hard to push the new one back on at the diaphragm end as their is limited space for your fingers.

[landyprincess]

Its on the passenger side of the block where the head and block bolt together keep looking youll find it ;)


Thanks Ken,
Right down on the very bottom of the block on the passenger side inconspicuously hidden round about in the middle ish - yes - you really had to look for it *lol*'...

I spoke with Malcolm from Mornington Prestige upon recommendation from the forum and he was extremely helpful over the phone earlier in the week. I went and saw him in person today and explained to him what was going on with my landrover. He was only too happy to help! He confirmed for me high compression and pointed out to me where it was etc as well as clarified many other questions I had...

On a good note, my system was 'reset' to factory default and after being explained how it would run i'm glad that all's fine with the MAF... if anything it's running better!!

I'm very very very happy with the help received, that in itself is invaluable to me so i've booked in to have my landrover serviced there... saves us time doing the work considering hubby has to rebuild his chevy 400 small block (long story)... and i'm happy to pay Malcolm for work on the landrover :-)

cheers

Lp

[aferrier]

7. intermittent SRS airbag light -

I couldn't help but notice this SRS fault... had the same issue. Mine flagged as a faulty pre-tensioner. I stopped believing this after the dealer replaced it three times in a row with no change. (My last ever trip to the dealer:mad:)

This is how i fixed mine on my 2001 TD5 D2. Get yourself a can of "CRC CO Contact Cleaner". Find the yellow connector under each seat that connects the pre-tensioner leads. If you know the faulty side, undo the plug on that side, or both if you dont and blast the contacts (gold plated from memory) of the connector into both sides of each plug. Dry, snap together and leave them as you found them. Also make sure that you don't have stuff rolling around under the front seats that can interfere with these plugs as the system seems very sensitive.

Hopefully this may clear your fault and cheaper than a new pre-tensioner.

Alistair

[landyprincess]

thx Alistair, will add your suggestion to my list of fixes to try for this problem :-)

[Roverlord off road spares]

If your Cruise Control has packed up, it is most likely the piece of hose (8mm I think) from the vacuum pump to the diaphragm. You can get replacement from Supercheap for around $2.00 (they may want you to buy 1m at around $7) This ageing hose can crack from the heat thus rendering the vacuum operated diaphragm useless.

Check in your Rave CD under Workshop Manual, Engine Management System, Description and Operation, Cruise Control Component Layout section for diagrams and description.

This simple piece of new hose repaired my Cruise Control about 3 months ago. Take the old one in to size it correctly. It can be hard to push the new one back on at the diaphragm end as their is limited space for your fingers.
Your not wrong about no room for fingers, I couldn't get a new piece of hose on, maybe my fingers are too fat.
I'm going to have to remove the unit to fit a piece of hose that should only take a minute to fit.

[mattg]

I got a filter kit for my td5 from Karkraft in Sydney and got awesome service all OEM filters (coopers mahle) cheaper then ryco the invoice was cheaper when it arrived then what they quoted on the phone.
This is my second service filter kit won't be the last from these guys. 02 9737 9944

On after market just DON'T get anything from Britpart especially rubber bits.