I started to build my tray

[srowlandson]

picked up 3 lengths of steel (well, a mate did and dropped em over )

1 x 8 metre length of 50mm x 25mm x 2.0
2 x 8 metre lengths of 50mm x 25mm x 1.6mm

Used my new Ebay special $100 Cut off Saw and set a 45 degree angle. Tested on scrap steel (mot much around as i have been practicing my welding and have welded just about all my scrap steel in a big chunk.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/474.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/475.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/476.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/477.jpg

[Phoenix]

Looking good!

[srowlandson]

Spent more time in the shed. the frame is all welded and about 80% of it all the welds are neatly ground back. Loving the new flap discs. Less abrasive and just as quick to grind down the welds :)

I have made 2 plates to be my chain tie downs. 100x 150 x 6mm plate, with a 35mm hold in the centre. From this on the cross angle, 2 x 10mm holes 1 1/2 inchs from the hole to then cut a slot with the grinder. Will post a photo tomorrow.

Next steps are a few gussets to strengthen, a bit of RHS or angle on the back to support the end of the rope rail, still undecided if i put a rope rail across the back ?

Need to make the head board from 40x40rhs about 290mm height.

I have welded 6 50x5 x 140mm plates across the chassis to bolt down the tray. The tray will have some 70mm C Channel welded under the ribs then some 40x40 rhs uprights about 250mm. to the bottom of the RHS will be more 50x5 plates to bolt to those on the chassis via a thin sheet of 'rubber' to insultate and provide a little flex.

[srowlandson]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/602.jpg

Spotted Gum deck, Nice ....


Steve

[chazza]

Nice work Steve! :D

I agree about the flap discs; so much quieter as well!

Don't forget to drill some drain holes in every RHS, or the condensation will rust away your good work.

Cheers Charlie

[Tonestar]

Lookin' Good............nice work,

Thats what I'll be doing to mine..............but not so big
wont have sides or back on it though......it'll just be a Tray.

Tonestar.

[srowlandson]

Lookin' Good............nice work,

Thats what I'll be doing to mine..............but not so big
wont have sides or back on it though......it'll just be a Tray.

Tonestar.

it's 2 metres long, 1.6 wide... width of the landy bodyand over hangs the back by about 70 mm...

[Sleepy]

Nice job Steve! :BigThumb:

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Looking good Steve.

Are the timbers well matured? If not, they will most likely shrink in the first few months after construction, which would spoil all your nice work with gaps opening up between the timbers.

It is a good idea to have an extra board drying off the vehicle, so that you can finish off the work once everything has stopped shrinking.

Diana

[srowlandson]

Looking good Steve.

Are the timbers well matured? If not, they will most likely shrink in the first few months after construction, which would spoil all your nice work with gaps opening up between the timbers.

It is a good idea to have an extra board drying off the vehicle, so that you can finish off the work once everything has stopped shrinking.

Diana

The wood's been sitting outside for a while, its left over from a job a mate did a few months ago.

[The ho har's]

i would do some type of tie down rail or lashing point at rear ,helps stop load shift ;)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The wood's been sitting outside for a while, its left over from a job a mate did a few months ago.
The longer the better! make sure you use some sash cramps or something to squeeze everything together before fixing. Once you have fixed all but the last board remove the cramps and the final one is made with a slight taper (top to bottom) to wedge in and hold the tension then fixed.

There is an Austin truck that comes to the All British Days in Sydney and it has a great polished hardwood deck. Something I'm thinking about doing for my SIIB trayback.

[chazza]

The longer the better! make sure you use some sash cramps or something to squeeze everything together before fixing. Once you have fixed all but the last board remove the cramps and the final one is made with a slight taper (top to bottom) to wedge in and hold the tension then fixed.



Years ago I made a tray-top trailer with a karri top, which I still have. Everything was fine until I had to keep it outside as the fleet grew, at which point exposure to the elements started to wreak havoc. The tightly clamped boards shrunk in summer which necessitated using a tarp on the tray when moving sand. In winter they expanded so much that they snapped tek screws and assumed the position of a bursting barrel. Each year I would drench them in the finest sump oil in a desperate and futile attempt to stop them moving. It has now come to the point where I really need to replace them with steel.

Moral of the story - keep it inside if you plan to make it out of timber and oil it with linseed whatever you do. :D

[Bigbjorn]

Chequer plate is the go for cargo floors, steel or aluminium, whatever you can find. I got heartily sick of replacing shot edged floor timbers on truck and trailer bodies long, long, ago.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Chequer plate is the go for cargo floors, steel or aluminium, whatever you can find. ...<snip>Brian

What do you think of expanded mesh for a floor! You can tie down anywhere on the deck without problem and it never holds water.

Well at least that's the tray the P.O. fixed to my SIIB. :(

It currently has concrete form ply on top.

Diana

[Bigbjorn]

Good if you are not worried about road spray coming up through the floor into the cargo. A mate has a Toyota Hi-Lux ute with a home?- made tray which uses open spaced aluminium extrusions for floor boards. The extrusions are the backing pieces of aluminium street signs. Guess where he works.