rear diff leaks

[weeds]

righto its starting to get to me:(

need to replace the rear drivers hub seal again, did it a few months ago anlong with a new stub axle, although after a discussion on here it appears i should have knocked the seal on all the way even though my local landie repairer gave differant advise

i have done at lease two hub seal on each side

i also have a wet patch around the diff breather and air locker fitting, i have checked the breather previously and all was good and i haven't used the loack since the last seal change

what else should i be looking for:(

oh how many time can the pads be oil soaked before i have to change them

i least i an getting very good at changing them

[Blknight.aus]

the pads.... just the once.

just occasionally its not the hub seal that leaks but the seal between the stub axle and the main axle tube.

80/90 while its as thick as clag glue its fairly persistant. IF you dont have a thread sealant on the bung and the locker air fitting thread it will eventually work its way up the threads and dampen the housing. Its nothing to be worried about unless you see actual drips forming.

[weeds]

the pads.... just the once.:ooops......twice already

just occasionally its not the hub seal that leaks but the seal between the stub axle and the main axle tube. seal or gasket, i use a gasket + gasket goo


will have a closer look next weekend

[Blknight.aus]

from memory theres a paper gasket which is the main culprit but it can be helped along on the front by the seal between the front axle housing and the swivel housing failing and then "pumping" the oil level up in the housing the pumping action can also pressurise (albeit it only slightly) the housing. Ive found that with that particular gasket you either go the sealastic OR the gasket with hylomar #3 but not the gasket with the sealastic..

on the pads deal you might get away with cleaning them with brake clean or the like BUT.

the pads are porus and you wont get all the oil out so when you do the ultra urgent "please stop 3 seconds ago" type braking they will cook up and glaze. this is even more probable if you rely on the brakes to maintain speed on downhill runs.

[weeds]

oops sorry.....its the rear axle:angel:

[Blknight.aus]

the seal Im talking about is in the front axle on all rovers but not in all on the rear...

the paper seal can still let go as per the front but it doesnt get the help from the seal pumping from the axle housing.

instead..

there is a small seal in the stub axle housing which should be in place if you run grease bearings instead of the oil. That seal can do the same thing as the seal in the axle housing at the front but is slower.

Assuming that its not just a torn up seal from incorrect installation.

give the stub ale seal face a wipe with some bearing blue and then hand press a new seal on and pull it off. IF any of the blue piles up more in one place on the seal than others then that can be a problem but its worse if any gets left behind on the running face. A light sand with some 1200 grit wet and dry using ATF as the wet medium should sort out any pitting, if it doesnt I would start thinking about a speedy sleeve.

[weeds]

i am running maxi axles therefore the axle? seal has been removed

[Ace]

Hi weeds i did mine last year when i put my maxi axles in, i left the seals out after i found out that when i put the axle back in after doing the wheel bearings a few months before i did the axles i damaged the seal so the oil had leaked past and the bearings were running on oil.

I used gasket sealant between the diff housing and the stub axle, and left the axle oil seals out, made sure the hub seal was good and havent had a problem touch wood. Matt

[Ace]

i am running maxi axles therefore the axle? seal has been removed

so its leaking from the seal on the inside of the hub that runs on the stub axle? If its a new stub axle then the surface isnt the problem. Pushing the seal in to far is a problem because then its on to far and will leak. If its not pushed in enough the surface on the stub axle will push it in the rest of the way as you tighten the hub nuts. I push mine on so that the outer edge is level with the lip on the hub where the seal sits, and i havent had a problem.

Are they the right seals?

[Blknight.aus]

if you dont push the seal in far enough it can catch the running surface and chew itself out in short order as the face running on the wiper lip dries it out and chews it up... there endeth the seal.

the tell tale is burn marks on the seal face where the wiper lip used to live

[rick130]

Mate, check the diff breather for a blockage too.
It can be a fairly common problem. I've had it happen once, blew oil all over a set of pads.

Also, the RTC3511 seal needs to be below the hub face 4mm.