Radiator bleed screw - look familiar?

[ariddell]

Guys,
Ok, so it's not on a Land Rover but i'm hoping this may be another part that TVR has borrowed from LR.

Does this plastic bleed screw on the top/side of the radiator at the drivers side look familiar as matching one on any LR?

No idea why they made it out of plastic but mine went and shredded the other evening when i was tightening it back up. The meta ring/thread piece beneath is stuck in the radiator so I've had to aroldite the plastic top bit back on which seems to be vaguely holding for the moment but is obviously not a long term solution - so if i can find a LR replacement if it's a matching part here rather than getting one sent out from the UK it'd be great.

Cheers

Al

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/260.jpg

[PhilipA]

Any LR specialist will sell you a brass one.
And yes it looks identical.
Regards Philip A

[PhilipA]

PS, from the top it looks like a Range Rover Classic radiator with the tubes to the inlet manifold and header tank pinched off.
Maybe something to remember when needing a new core, as NATRAD make a 3 row core which is better than the LR 4 row.
So no unobtanium TVR pricing.
Regards Philip A

[B92 8NW]

Got one in a packet in my top drawer here, says ERR4686 on it.

[ariddell]

Nice one, Thanks!

[ariddell]

Second question then - anyone got any ideas how to get the stuck thread part out so i can replace it?

I tried making a notch in the top of the metal ring where the plastic cap had seperated and attempted to hammer it round to unscrew it with a screwdriver but it wasn't budging at all.

Thanks

[Slunnie]

Its also a Disco2 diff filler plug

[llandro]

They are a fair bugger to extract.
If you wedge a screwdriver or similar into the inner hole it only expands it against the threads.
I removed one by grinding down the back of a hacksaw blade until it fitted in, then used the blade in a "pad handle" to split the plug being very careful not to go too deep to damage the housing thread.
Proceed slowly would be my advice.
llandro

[PhilipA]

I haven't tried it, but why not heat up a screwdriver so it melts a notch into the cap, let it cool then unscrew.
Regard sPhilip A

[ariddell]

Alas the whole cap had torn from the metal ring/thread and is just aroldite'd back on at the moment.

Will give it a try now the glue has fully set and see if it's strong enough to allow me to unscrew it but i think probably not.

Otherwise will give the hacksaw from inside the bolt hole technique a shot and see how it goes. Ordered a replacement metal ERR4686 plug from ebay, and failing that if the thread on the radiator itself is stuffed or i can't get it out i'll just need to get one of those upgraded radiators fitted instead.. :)

[gromit]

Can anyone confirm the thread size ? I've been too lazy to remove one on my Defender to check.
If it's BSP I may be able to source a plated brass plug with O-ring seal from work.

Colin

[llandro]

Colin.
1/2" BSP. Needs a flanged plug with fibre washer under (not an "O" ring unless the flange has a recess for it).
llandro

[lxpossessed]

you can buy some ezy outs from super cheap for about $10 that will get it out in 2 seconds

[LandyAndy]

Contact Davy on here via PM or his website that advertises the Enginsavers at the top of the page,his new sensor should fit in there nicely and you have engine protection for coolant loss.
Davy will be happy to know what vehicle it is I bet!!!!
Andrew

[justinc]

This is a serious problem Alan, it is time you decided to give that troublesome Chimaera to me so I have to live with the stress of its unreliableness and fickle problems....

So how long does it take to get to your place in Melbourne traffic from Port Melbourne, towing a car trailer...??




:p:p:p:p:p:p:p


JC

[ariddell]

This is a serious problem Alan....

Now see if you hadn't called me Alan when my name's Alistair i might have been tempted, gone and blown it now though haven't you! :p :D

Could well be tempted by an enginesaver, would be good to know if it ever drops its coolant without the first warning being the thump of an incredibly large repair bill landing.

I generally check it pretty regularily - hence why i think the plug also shredded but would be good to have that extra pease of mind.

How do the ezy-out things work? Can't say i've ever seen/heard of them before.

Cheers

Al

[justinc]

Ha!

I do that a lot, assume someone 's name is such- and -such from an initial.

Now it's just cost me a beautiful (but troublesome :p)TVR, FREE!!!

:BigCry::BigCry::BigCry::BigCry::BigCry::BigCry::B igCry:



JC

[Bush65]

you can buy some ezy outs from super cheap for about $10 that will get it out in 2 seconds
I'm afraid that they won't.

What happens is the remains of the plastic plug, expand ever tighter into the threaded boss, from the wedge action of the ezy-out.

Some at Land Rover need a boot in the rear for changing to plastic plugs.

[justinc]

AListair,

I suppose I had better actually answer your question then...

Ive had success drilling out most of the plastic, then gently chipping/ levering the threaded bits away towards the centre of the hole with a thin sharp flat screwdriver. Be careful not to let chunks drop in, thin nose pliers help to pull the loosened bits out as you go.
Glad to see you are looking after my car well. One day it will be mine Bwa hahahahah!(Insert manic Dr Evil type laugh here)

:twisted::twisted::D:D:D

JC

[justinc]

Make sure you have the sound up for this one...:cool:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KErgU-QLRv0


I would NEVER treat MY vehicle like this.



(Well not while I don't have one anyway:twisted:)

JC

[DirtyDawg]

I had the same problem on the deefer, the plastic nut had rounded and was stuck fast, H got a wide tipped flat head screw driver and heated it up till red hot then inserted it through the plastic plug, went had a coffee came back and unscrewed it, saved getting any plastic in the rad.

[Bush65]

I had the same problem on the deefer, the plastic nut had rounded and was stuck fast, H got a wide tipped flat head screw driver and heated it up till red hot then inserted it through the plastic plug, went had a coffee came back and unscrewed it, saved getting any plastic in the rad.
That would not do the screwdriver any good:o hope it was a cheapie.

[Bigbjorn]

You can get a flanged BSPP plug from any decent supplier of hose and hydraulic fittings. $2 or $3.

[ariddell]

Will see how i go when the replacement i ordered on ebay turns up, the aroldite is holding well enough for the moment.

If i'm really lucky the bond will be strong enough to carefully get it unscrewed, or at least loosened enough to tap it round - otherwise it'll be the saw it out approach since the whole plastic top has come off so there wont be anywhere to get a hot screwdriver into.

[gromit]

Colin.
1/2" BSP. Needs a flanged plug with fibre washer under (not an "O" ring unless the flange has a recess for it).
llandro

llandro

I can get a 1/2" BSP blanking plug in nickel plated brass with O-ring seal (yes there is a recess for it) with a 10mm Allen key socket.
O-ring is NBR so this would have to be changed to Viton to withstand the temperature.

Cost is about $3 each plus the cost of the viton O-ring.

I'll check out viton O-rings and maybe finally get round to changing mine.


Colin