Ultimate rust killer solution

[F4Phantom]

I am wondering if we could all give opinions on getting rid of and preventing rust. I have heard and read just about everything over the years but with all the knowledge here I am sure we can come up with the ultimate idea. This was brought on today when I found my front carpets were wet and the floor rusty. (RRC)

I will start with my rusting ideas and my observation as my best possible solution. If we get people with solutions and others confirming solutions enough we can find out which seem to be the best.

my ideas
1. rust converter is very appealing but I have found rust does return quickly.
2. all rust killer paint I have used is crap (wattle rust kill comes to mind)
3. penetrol for me has worked the best, paint it on any rust and it stops any rust progressing for a number of years.

So my best solution so far is rust converter topped with penetrol aluminium.

The Flood Company Australia (http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/penetrol_aluminum.htm)

[Bundalene]

I am wondering if we could all give opinions on getting rid of and preventing rust. I have heard and read just about everything over the years but with all the knowledge here I am sure we can come up with the ultimate idea. This was brought on today when I found my front carpets were wet and the floor rusty. (RRC)

I will start with my rusting ideas and my observation as my best possible solution. If we get people with solutions and others confirming solutions enough we can find out which seem to be the best.

my ideas
1. rust converter is very appealing but I have found rust does return quickly.
2. all rust killer paint I have used is crap (wattle rust kill comes to mind)
3. penetrol for me has worked the best, paint it on any rust and it stops any rust progressing for a number of years.

So my best solution so far is rust converter topped with penetrol aluminium.

The Flood Company Australia (http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/penetrol_aluminum.htm)

Hi, I use a product called POR 15, a bit expensive but yot will never have to go back. The only problem with this is that it isnt UV stable and has to be given a second coat of another paint.

google this up " POR-15 Inc. (http://www.por15.com/) "

Erich.

[EchiDna]

POR 15, never heard a bad word on it.

Permanent Painted Coatings Home (http://www.ppc.au.com/)

[abaddonxi]

Tried POR15 lovely, lovely stuff, goes on like a dream. Costs a bomb.

I wonder if Penetrol and POR15 are much the same stuff. The description of what they both do is very similar.

Cheers
Simon

[harry]

hmm,
the most effective way to remove rust is to remelt the metal.

unfortunatly we are often subjected to rust from all sorts of places in our vehicles,
we have problems with the initial preparation of the metal when mr land rover built the cars because they didn't expect to have them last forever [this also includes the new car owners]
the next major corrosion problem is the metal itself - now as above, not wanting to accuse lr of poor manufacture, we cannot expect to have the cars last forever.

just fix the rust in whatever way you think is good and safe.
you will not stop it.
if the rust is in a part you can exchange easily,like a door frame, then that is probably the best way to go.
if it is in the floor, as said above, you can clean it up with all the best stuff and hide it, for a while.
when it is rusted through, you will just have to replace or weld in a new panel.

[JDNSW]

Move away from the coast. The further the better.

John

[Debacle]

Whats the best way to do the inside of the chassis ??

Will be attempting this soon on mine as soon as I get the body off.

[long stroke]

The foot wells in my d1 were rusted pretty well (right through in places)
I used rust converter then this stuff...Corrosion Control Products - Rustmasters (http://www.rustmasters.com.au/products.php)
I have found it very effective and easy to use.

CHEERS TIM.

[long stroke]

Whats the best way to do the inside of the chassis ??

Will be attempting this soon on mine as soon as I get the body off.

Poor a load of fish oil down it then drive around;)

CHEERS TIM.

[F4Phantom]

after reading about por-15 I think it could be the same as penetrol. Penetrol also comes in clear and is not UV stable which is why they made the aluminium version as it is fine in sunlight. Like por-15 penetrol also stops rust by stopping water and air touching the metal surface. Penetrol does not seem to dry hard like por-15 though as it seems to stay tacky for a while.

On the msds for por-15 it is described as "Modified Urethane Resin mixture" to me this is like some sort of epoxy like araldite?

[Debacle]

Poor a load of fish oil down it then drive around;)

CHEERS TIM.

Will be just a rolling chassis by then so might need a lot of help pushing it.

Just wondering how professional rust proofers get their treatments in there, aside from bunging up all holes and filling with their product.

[F4Phantom]

The foot wells in my d1 were rusted pretty well (right through in places)
I used rust converter then this stuff...Corrosion Control Products - Rustmasters (http://www.rustmasters.com.au/products.php)
I have found it very effective and easy to use.

CHEERS TIM.

I think rustmasters is penetrol rebadged.

[clean32]

if you just want to kill the rust off as a prep, use pool Acid, on a rag, gives you nice clean steel.

as a side note, Car panel steel Had quite a bit of copper in it . to slow down the rust, but with higher tenciel steel being used as well as the cost. it has been just about eliminated.

[p38arover]

If you can dip it, use molasses. See Getting Rid of Rust (http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/thebecketts/rover/rust.htm)

[Bundalene]

If you can dip it, use molasses. See Getting Rid of Rust (http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/thebecketts/rover/rust.htm)

It would smell better than fish oil :D:D:D:D:D

[awabbit6]

There isn't really a 'best' way to remove rust. Each rust problem is different and should be treated in the most appropriate way.

For severe rust, the only solution is replacement. That may be the entire panel or cutting out the affected area and patching it with new steel.

More minor problems can be solved by chemical means (as suggested) but only after the majority of the rust has been removed by physical means.
An angle grinder with a 4" sanding disk is the most effective but often the areas are too difficult to get into. In these situations, I find a rotary wire brush in the chuck of a drill very good. There are other rotary abrasives that are also very good. Most are available from paint shops. For really tight areas, a carbide burr in a die grinder works well.

The other aspect of removing rust is to determine the reason the panel rusted and try to rectify the cause of the problem. There is no point repairing rust if you don't try to do this.

As for protecting the area that has been repaired, again it depends on the situation. There are a number of products that all work well if applied correctly. The most obvious is good quality paint. For hidden areas, I like to use Tectyl. It's been around for years and works very well. It can be sprayed into chassis rails and onto the back of painted panels. I've used it to hopefully stop the progression of the rust on the underside of my rain channel. It is too small to bother repairing, so I'm happy so stop it's progress and the Tectyl seems to have done that. If the rust has been removed from a spot welded seam, then it's important to seal the seam with a good quality sealer prior to painting.





Paul

[Jojo]

Here, living in the "corrosion belt", protecting your car equals to protecting your property/wallet.
As Paul already has stated, removal of existing corrosion is paramount, so if you use a wire brush, angle grinder or shot blaster it will help you one step ahead. Then use good quality primer (I am usually using industrial stuff for earth moving equipment or farm machinery which even can double as coating).
Minor rust spots will be tackled with rust converting chemicals, before being primed.
Protection of the vehicle itself is done by professional vehicle corrosion protection treatment with Waxoyl/Dinitriol at regular intervals. Not really cheap but effective. Doing it yourself is a really sticky, smelly and messy affair best entrusted to professionals who even will have the necessary special equipment (which you will need to treat the inside of the chassis rails and other rather inaccessible cavities).
If you do want to have a home remedy, try linseed oil. Inexpensive, non-toxic (you can even consume it -it is considered a delicacy in my home country :p), old fashioned (used for centuries) and well-proven method of protecting metal (and even wood). It is rather fluid when warm, thus will penetrate almost anywhere (sprayed some linseed oil into the TR´s roll cage and part of it turned up behind the dash !?!), but will form a sticky resin after some time. The only disadvantage is you will need to renew the treatment more frequently than with Dinitriol for example.

Good luck and may the metal eating demons turn their back on you :cool::D.
Cheers

[Bigbjorn]

There are a number of good products. First step is to get rid of existing corrosion, wire brush, grinder, Scotchbrite discs or belts, then treat with a phosphoric acid product. Two good finishes are Rustlac and Corroless which are active coatings that attack new rust that may form under the coating as a result of coating damage. Follow instructions and don't shortcut. Bear in mind that if you are operating or keeping the vehicle in a hostile environment, exposed to salt water, salt spray, coal, fertilizer etc, then you are fighting a rearguard action from day one. In these operating conditions corrosion is inevitable and you need to constantly address the problem as it occurs.

[catch-22]

POR-15 is the ducks nuts.....but does require proper preparation prior. And drys as hard as rock if left to cure properly..

[JohnF]

Molassis does work very well on heavy rust, but takes some weeks. If rust is light use rust converter which is just phosphoric acid packed in a very pretty and expensive bottle. Paint well after using rust converter. Fish oil is great but smelly. Years ago you could buy bitumen paint which seemed to work well--only used it once though. Find out what the Pros who gaurantee their work use, and then buy that. Check what paint is used to preserve rusty house gutters.