D1 Pass. side window problem.

[4bee]

I've had the window out today to replace the broken lock spring fix.

Ok ok, so I have since found out that you don't need to drop it to do the lock, but the WM says you do, so I did.:(

It's all gone back together reasonably well, the lock works as it should & the window drives up & down, except the square "rollers" are still not back in the track. The lower tracks are not full width.

My query: At what point of reassembly are they supposed to go back in or how can I get them in without dismantling the show again.

According to the WM the door top is one of the last things to be refitted so how?

Thanks in urgent anticipation.

[4bee]

No one?:( At all?

There was me thinking this forum was the font of all knowledge.;)

[chazza]

I did mine last year 4bee and my memory is a bit hazy without the manual to look at.

I don't really understand the problem you have - is it that the sliders are not in the bottom track? If so I remember unscrewing the track and fitting it to the sliders and then screwing the track to the door. I taped the glass to the door frame to hold it up while doing this. Am I right in thinking that you are working on the front door?

Some pics would help,

Cheers Charlie

[4bee]

Thanks Chas.

Yes that is it, but I don't recall the tracks being screwed on to the glass frame though. Maybe they are but I haven't noticed it??????

That would be good if they were.:)



If so I remember unscrewing the track and fitting it to the sliders and then screwing the track to the door.
Maybe we are not on the same tram, as the bottom glass frame/edge is not screwed to the door but fixed to the glass & the slider blocks lift it. Not unless I am way off beam here.

Yes, it is the front NS door.


Edited: Just had a look, & the channels overlap the glass frame behind & they are spot welded to it so no joy there then.

[The ho har's]

ho har has done my passenger and drivers windows lots of times......I will get him on here when he gets home....OK



Mrs ho har:D

[4bee]

Thanks Ms HH. Would appreciate it. I want to tackle it tomorrow morning. Or Mr Glass Channel meets Mr Angle Grinder.;)

Failing that, when is he vacationing in South Australia next?:D

[Bundalene]

Hi, there was a change in the windows in mid 1994 - i assume you have the earlier one with the square plastic slide blocks and the channel fixed to the bottom of the glass.

I have removed several of these earlier ones - never re-assembled the early one. I assume you locate the square blocks into the channel at the bottom of the glass, then put the second set of guide blocks into the second channel and screw this back onto the door.

On the later models which I am farmiliar with, you unscrew the channel off the glass with 2 screws and don't (can't) remove the small round guide blocks out of the channel. You also unscrew the second slider with guide blocks intact.

Erich

[The ho har's]

Thanks Ms HH. Would appreciate it. I want to tackle it tomorrow morning. Or Mr Glass Channel meets Mr Angle Grinder.;)

Failing that, when is he vacationing in South Australia next?:D



aaahhhaaa you read my posts....yes we are in S.A. next year Flinders Rangers I expect:D


Mrs ho har:D

[4bee]

Erich.

Yes I have the square block type with the fixed bottom channel. ('95 MY. split AC) If they are 'early' ones then they raided the parts bin for leftovers from the 200. I realise that would be most unusual for LR.:D


I assume you locate the square blocks into the channel at the bottom of the glass, then put the second set of guide blocks into the second channel and screw this back onto the door.

That's my problem, how to get the bottom two blocks into the split tracks as at the moment they are outside of the channel.

The single top channel is no big deal as it can be located & at the mo is inserted ok.

Maybe I have to move the motor/actuator around & try it. I guess I will wait & see what Mr ho har says.

Ms hohar. I doubt I can wait that long.:D

[The ho har's]

what bundalene said I am sure the track slides of the glass jiggle the
window .....without seeing it I can't be much more help.......sorry


You may have too get the scissors arm to go up and down to get the right position......I think it is about 50 ml from the bottom for 1 of the hexhead screwaand you have see the other one


mrs ho har:D

[4bee]

A photo, but I don't think it's much help.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/125.jpg

[The ho har's]

youv'e got to lift the window to make the scissors fit ...........other than that sorry I can not be of any further help...sorry

ho har

[chazza]

G'day 4bee,
The photo is a help but, I think it might be different to my '96. Can you slide the sliders into the end of the track or is the end of the track crimped to stop them sliding out? If it is crimped you can open up the end of it with a screwdriver or similar, which is what I had to do on the back door ones.

I remember connecting the winder motor and moving the regulator arms up or down until they were in a convenient place to work on; but the track was definitely srewed to the door frame separately

[4bee]

Chas, they are open ended not crimped so must slip in from the ends, but which ones?

It must be do-able, so I suppose it's a matter of somehow getting the blocks to the end & then in like a slippy thing.:eek:
The problem is getting them in position to face the open ends.

This may be by moving the motor/winder assy with one hand while trying to getting the scissors to move & trying to amputate my fingers with the other. This may also require the door top frame to be slid out again for the motor to move. That I can do with my 5th hand.;)
They obviously ain't called scissors for nothing, if you get me drift.:D
If the door didn't have an inner skin it would be wonderful but, hey ho.
Back at it again this morning to give me plenty of time for many deep breaths & calming cups of tea.

The other self induced problem is that before I commenced assy, I lightly greased all the moving bits & tracks. With all the faffing about guess where the grease is now?:D


See above post from Erich re door changes in '94. Probably 1 more day & mine may have had removable tracks as well.:D

Thanks for trying to help, I'll post more if I still have all me fingers at the end of the day.:(

[4bee]

All sorted. :D

On the advice of someone on a UK forum I dropped the motor & actuator down, removed the door top, slid it off the glass so I could move the motor towards the front of the Disc.

Packed some small softwood blocks under the bottom frame & jiggled & fiddled & eventually got the nylon slides into the slots.

Having done that, I then fiddled around to get the top block in ok & general tweaked & cleaned up the mechanism. I bent a couple of lock actuating rods with the LH door top support, but they straightened out ok.

All is working ok, lock actions & window movement & I took it for a road test & the rattle that was there yesterday has gone, but I think I will leave the skin off for a few km in case something needs looking at again.
I only broke 4 x pins along the top as I didn't know they were there ;)but a friend in the UK had sent me some + the tool, a year ago when I did the rear door lock spring, so I'm ok there.

Cleaned the greasy glass up with some mineral turps & Windex & it's come up ok.

All this for that tiny lock spring! :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

I will be a lot wiser next time around.:(

Thanks for all your advice.