View Full Version : Dynamic 17" wheels for disco TDV6
eyegasm
29th October 2008, 07:00 AM
Has anyone had, or seen, a disco with the 17" dynamic wheels on it... just wondering if there are any issues and how they go...post some pics if possible.
Desert Traveller
30th October 2008, 10:21 PM
There have been some issues. There are photos of a D3 with these wheels in the Cooma 60th photos.
They were a hit before any AT's were available for 18" wheels.
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Steel rims (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic19938.html)
eyegasm
31st October 2008, 08:16 AM
Thanks for that..dont suppose you have a link to the photos anywhere?
I was looking at the 17"s as I want to get some mickey thompson ATZ on the disco as they seem to be the best tyre for what I do.. and I currently have 19" rims so either way I need to get a new set... seems like the dynamics are the best alternative.
Desert Traveller
1st November 2008, 04:58 PM
I changed from 18 to 19 and fitted MTR's. I am looking at selling my 18" wheels with half worn AT2's in the near future.
Can't find the steel wheel photo link.
stu bear
12th November 2008, 05:10 PM
How did you find the AT2's. I have just had these fitted to my 18's seem ok so far.
d3viate
21st November 2008, 07:30 PM
Hi, I have the rims fitted with Mickey Thompsons MTZs. Do you still require some pics ?
CaverD3
21st November 2008, 09:54 PM
AFAIK the Dynamics needed different nuts. ;)
Jezzaol
21st November 2008, 10:40 PM
I had a customer with a D3 buy a set of Dynamics 17" rims and fitted Micky Thompson MTZ's to them, had to replace the wheel nuts and I think they were $2 ea, From memory he had done the research and the load rating etc etc were all good and there were no problems !
Cheers
d3viate
23rd November 2008, 08:13 PM
They are steel nuts from VT Commodores if I recall the model correctly when I purchased them. The thread pitch should be 1.5mm to suit the D3. When I get back to Broome in a week or so I can tell you the part number.
eyegasm
4th December 2008, 09:43 AM
Yes if you could post some pics that would be awesome... does the dynamic wheel fit in the spare wheel section under the car ok... was hoping it would be AOK under there.
Yowie13
4th March 2009, 07:08 PM
Yep Jezzaol
Might have been me. Bought a set of Dynamic rims in Midland. Now have 15K on the wheels & tyres and very happy with them. Heaps of traction & quite for muddies on ther tar. Get a Kaymar rear bar and move the spare to the back. My tyres won't fit in the standard spot. Also lets you put a Long Ranger tank in. I now have 190 litres of useable fuel, gives me a lot of range. Car has had 2nd rear carrier added since photo was taken. 2 spares means easy roatation for longer tyre wear. And if I wreck a rim $120 is a lot cheaper than $600 for a 2nd hand 18" alloy (if you can find one and I couldn't anywhere in the country) or $2,000 for a new one from Landrover (prior to the drop of the Aussie Dollar).
Cheers
Yowie13
rmp
4th March 2009, 08:36 PM
Steel rims always need different nuts to alloy rims. Alloy rims have holes larger than the stud, so the nut fits over the stud, taking the weight of the rim. Steel rims fit more directly on the stud, with a little bevel to fit into the much thinner rim, and the nut tightens the rim directly against the inner wheel housing.
You cannot possibly fit steel nuts to an alloy rim, and while it is possible to fit alloy nuts to a steel rim just look at them; they don't look right, and they aren't right. You will break studs through stress if you try, seen it happen before. If there are issues with steel wheels don't blame the wheels if people have not used steel nuts.
Pros of steel rims; much cheaper, and more scratch-resistant when changing tyres or just offroading. Dynamic steels are $130ea, LR 17x7 are RRP $1000ea or something crazy, aftermarket $250-$300.
Pros of alloys; look better, and are lighter. Steels can be bent back into shape if bent, but decent alloys are so strong you'd never need to do this, I've only done it to poor quality steels which then had to be replaced once we were out of the bush anyway. I wouldn't say steels are stronger than decent alloys. You can have steels powdercoated to improve looks.
On the subject of rims I am awaiting Performance Wheels' new release of BB-6 17x8s. Then I shall be selling my 19x8s with MTRs, in case there are any TDV8 or similar offroaders interested. Anyone wanting to run 265/65/17 will need a 17x8 rim to remain legal. 255/65/17 is ok on a 17x7 but check manufacturer specs, each manufacturer specifies the permitted rims for a given tyre size.
Autocraft in Geelong are also selling 17x7 alloys for a decent price.
Jamo
4th March 2009, 11:43 PM
On the subject of rims I am awaiting Performance Wheels' new release of BB-6 17x8s.
Robert, why is there a new release? Have they modified the design in some way?
rmp
5th March 2009, 05:36 AM
Robert, why is there a new release? Have they modified the design in some way?
I believe so. The wheels were available before but now they are re-released. Available early March.
Jamo
5th March 2009, 05:34 PM
Thanks.
I have six BB6 with STT's on for bush work. I noted what you said about the nuts for alloy and steel rims. The nuts that hold the BB6's on are not sleeved over the stud like the OE nuts, rather they are slightly tapered and this press the rim to the hub.
I have only had one stud shear, but the dealer replaced the hub (it's a one piece item - studs can't be indivually replace) at their expense as they couldn't prove whether they had done it with their rattle gun or whether it was the Aatermarket wheels.
I wonder even now if it is the nut system for the BB6.
I haven't had a problem since, but check wheel nut torque religously when the BB6's are on.
rmp
5th March 2009, 05:48 PM
As long as the nuts are specifically designed for the alloy rim in question that will be fine. For steelies any steel nut is generally ok. Definitely worth checking, and budgeting for 5 x 5 nuts (yes, some spares).
garryc
13th March 2009, 06:12 PM
I have KING brand 17x8 steel wheels and D2 steel nuts, $6 each from the local (ex) LR dealer. They have done the Adelaide to Cape York trip and other short trips without any problems :)
Ainsley
13th March 2009, 07:35 PM
If for some reason there are two very similar entries from me, it is because my last attempt a moment ago seems to have dissapered. Trying again;
I have recently bought Dynamic steel rims, 17"/7". I have then fit Goodyear Silent Armour tyres. I bought nuts from the guys at Dynamic. Specs on all as follows:
17"/7" steel rims have a rim offset of +30, vice the +53 of the LR alloy rims (18"/8").
Silent Armour are 265/70R17/112R vice the Wrangler HP AW that LR supplies (255/60R18/112V). Note, Overall diameter of the SA tyres is 802mm, vice the 763mm of the HP AW tyres. Gives an allowable +39mm. However, I have noticed that on full lock the inside edge of the SA front tyres is just kissing a metal protubance on the rear of the wheel arch (when suspension is at normal road height) but when I did a U-turn on a busy road (so accelerate a bit heavier) there was a definate making contact noise. My advice - do not get tyres with an OD any bigger than 802mm.
I bought nuts from Dynamic, at $1.20 each. Specs are DNUT 14mm by 1.5mm by 21mm hex open end bulge 139-1. The other posts clearly state the difference between nuts for steel wheels and ones for alloys.
For new folk like me, I will also add some extra information that I wish I'd been told earlier (before I found this wonderful resource). I have checked all the above details against the Australian Design Rules to ensure I did not exceed the limits of modifying my vehicle to the point where I would need special permission from my MVA. The wheels and tyres are clased as a 'minor modification', and I was able to check this before I applied to the NT MVA on the following web site:
www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/safety/bulletin/vsb_06ncop.aspx
This is the Vehicle Standards Bulletin number 14 - the National Code of Practice for light vehicle (less than 4.5t GVM) construction and Modifications (VSB-14). This has been endorsed by all states and territory authorities responsible for vehicle standards and the registration for road use. That said, you would still need to chek with with their registration authorites anyway. I used a form VS32 - Vehicle Modifications here in the Northern Teritory. That said, while I have received a verbal no worries, I am yet to see a formal response.14183
CaverD3
13th March 2009, 08:19 PM
Sorry link not working. :confused:
rmp
13th March 2009, 08:29 PM
National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Construction and Modification (NCOP) (http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx)
Be aware that the NCOP may not have been adopted by all states and territories. Those that have not will still have the +/- 15mm diameter rule in place.
I would want to be absolutely certain your region has indeed adopted NCOP before relying on it. Involvement in the development of NCOP does not mean the state has changed its laws to adopt it.
DiscoDan
13th March 2009, 11:05 PM
I have been informed by a D3 owner that the 17 inch steel rims won't fit onto a D3 that has 18 inch alloy wheels as standard. Said something about the brake calipers needing to be changed.......I didn't think LR would be this crazy (or any other manufacturer for this matter///unless top spec performance models with uprated brakes)
Can any-one confirm this?
Danny
rmp
14th March 2009, 04:43 AM
Partially correct. TDV6 SEs of any type can take 17s. V8s are 18 min. Many TDV6s have 18s as standard.
CaverD3
14th March 2009, 07:15 AM
Yup, V8 models have larger diameter brake discs.
Ainsley
14th March 2009, 09:38 AM
Dear All,
Sorry, the link seems to have corrupted when I sent it last. Here 'tis again;
www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/safety/bulletin/vsb_06ncop.aspx
Look for the Vehicle Standards Bulletin number 14.
The Moderator's comment is important about whether all states have adopted the standard. I was quoting from the NT Government information sheet, and I also note that the site above also talks about the standards being national - but I do keep hearing comments from others around the country that this might not in fact be the case, hence the reason I said check (correct spelling this time) and the Moderator has also advised the same thing. Bit frustrating that 'National' standards are not.
Ainsley
14th March 2009, 09:55 AM
If this doesn't work this time, go to file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/LEEAND%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpgthe Department of Infrastructure, Transport, Regional Development and Local Government site, and drill into it. I just copied the links off the sites this time, so hopefully they will work.
Vehicle Standards Bulletins (http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/index.aspx)
National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Construction and Modification (NCOP) (http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx)
The actual bulletin you want is NCOP11 Section LS Suspension and steering 3 Feb 2006. Specifically, see chapter 4.
Fingers crossed
Yowie13
30th April 2009, 12:14 PM
You can put 17's on the V6 & TDV6 with no problems. The basic S model comes standard with 17s. The brakes on the V8 however have discs around an inch larger in diameter both front & back so that may be where the issue lies. I have 17 inch steels on mine with Mickey Thompson MTZs and 18 inch Alloys with Cooper HT Plus'.
Yowie 13
________________________
05 TDV6 HSE (with most of the fruit)
BigJon
30th April 2009, 01:34 PM
Steel rims always need different nuts to alloy rims.
Not true.
Many aluminium alloy rims have a steel insert where the nuts touch so they take a standard taper wheel nut.
Incidentally, steel IS an alloy :angel:.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.