TD5 Head Strip....

[Psimpson7]

Right so part 2. this covers teh stripping of the head. Please excuse the fact that I haevnt got a nice bench. I will haev everything a lot better set up when I reassemble it.

So firstly, remove the lifting eyes:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/70.jpg

Then remove the water outlet with temp sender:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/71.jpg

Next unbolt the 6 bolts that hold in the rocker shaft.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/72.jpg

Lift it out

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/73.jpg

It will now look like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/74.jpg

remove the bolts that hold down the injectors, and lift out the clamps. I arranged everything so Iknow where it came from.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/998.jpg

Remove inlet manifold

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/75.jpg

remove fuel block

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/76.jpg

Undo the bolts holding down the upper section of the head. undo them evenly in a sensible order to release spring load evenly:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/77.jpg

Lift it off

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/78.jpg

This will expose the Camshaft, lift it out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/521.jpg

Now remove rollers that go between cam shaft and valves. Bottom of picture. 10 of them. place somewhere, keeping order.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/79.jpg

Once they are gone it will look like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/80.jpg

Now pull out the pedestals they sat on:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/81.jpg

Next pull out the pedestals that the injector clamps sat against:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/82.jpg

Now remove the injectors. This is actually quite easy adn you dont need an injector removal tool. Thanks JC for the tip. I used an allen Key as a little lever and gently prised them out uner the bridge.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/999.jpg

Lift out injector:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/83.jpg

Head is now basically bare enough for skimming (need to remove heater plugs and maybe studs but thats basically it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/84.jpg

Its actually a really nice engine to work on:)

Cheers
Pete

[andymach23]

Hi Pete

This series is excellent. A brilliant reference. The photos are well lit so are very clear. Looking forward to the next installment.

Cheers

Andy

[Psimpson7]

Thanks very much Andy:)

Skimming is going to be done tommorow so basic reassembly of some parts may happen tommorow. Havent actually ordered much yet beyond oil and filters but hopefully will get all the bits next week to start the proper reassembly.

Rgds
Pete

[Outlaw]

so to ask so i'm clear and learn something more ;) What is skimmed and what does that entail?

[Blknight.aus]

think of it as feeding the head through a really really accurade deck planer to make it all nice and flat.

the machineries different the concepts the same

[Psimpson7]

Well I had the head cleaned, pressure tested and skimmed this morning by PA Gilberts in Southport. Had 5thou taken off it to clean it up nicely.

Also dropped in to the Bruce Lynton LR dealership (basically next door) it turns out that all their engine machining goes there and started to look at part numbers.

Ended up buying near enough everything from them there and then. Got a discount on the head bolts too ($22.76ea+gst) which was nice. Only thing they didnt have in stock was teh dowels so they are on order adn will be with me on Monday.

Head check, clean and machine was $187 and parts were $676 so far. If anyone can think of anything I have forgotten please say! I will be getting all teh water pipes and so on too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/26.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/511.jpg

Cheers
Pete

[justinc]

Well I had the head cleaned, pressure tested and skimmed this morning by PA Gilberts in Southport. Had 5thou taken off it to clean it up nicely.

Also dropped in to the Bruce Lynton LR dealership (basically next door) it turns out that all their engine machining goes there and started to look at part numbers.

Ended up buying near enough everything from them there and then. Got a discount on the head bolts too ($22.76ea+gst) which was nice. Only thing they didnt have in stock was teh dowels so they are on order adn will be with me on Monday.

Head check, clean and machine was $187 and parts were $676 so far. If anyone can think of anything I have forgotten please say! I will be getting all teh water pipes and so on too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/26.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/511.jpg

Cheers
Pete


I'M STILL waiting for a reply Email RE parts :mad:, so I'm glad you were able to get it all at one place, sounds like good prices, RRP on Headbolts alone is about $440!
And By the looks of that list, it's all there!
5 thou is excellent, looks like a good finish too.
You're going well Pete, and your explanations and pics are excellent! Good tutorial!
JC

[justinc]

Pete,

Just remembered, don't forget to adjust injector bump clearances when reassembling. AFAIR you sit the cam lobe for the injector at full lift, screw the adjuster in until it bottoms out, then out 2 full turns and lock it up. repeat for others.
It may not need adjusting as you haven't changed cam/injectors/rollers etc BUT it is so simple to check and the results if it is wrong can be expensive. I've had to pick particles of broken injector springs out of heads with a magnet before now:(

JC

[harry]

good report pete,
the only thing i have to ask,
is
why havn't you taken the valves out and given them a tidy up as well?
seats and faces, guide wear etc?

[Psimpson7]

Thanks Justin. no worries! Will start to do a basic clean and reassemble of some stuff today. Will look at the injector bump clearances.

Yep finish on headis very good. happy with that. Guy did Sam's Vitara a while back and that was good also hence using him. His workshops are immaculate too.

Harry, its only done 98000km and I dont think needs it.

Rgds
Pete

[Blknight.aus]

check the bore alignment of the Cam journals, new bearings if needed,

Definately do the bump clearances if I can find the pics of the detroit one that was set wrong I'll put them up for you very impressive levels of carnage.

Id pull the the valve springs and check the stems + clearances as well as getting confirmation on the hardness of the facing.

[llandro]

What a tremendous job you have done on this photo sequence.
I almost wish mine were a td5, not a 300tdi, so I could pull it apart just for the experience.
Bloody terrific job there, looking forward to the final installments.
But please show how the valve clearance is set. When I saw the valves so well hidden under the camshaft I thought how on earth do you keep tab on the clearance. Even though the 300 has hardly changed in 200k. I still like to occasionally check. The td5 from the pics looks formidable.
llandro

[Blknight.aus]

you dont do the valve clearance on a TD5... its got tappets... what you do do is on a rebuild is adjust the clearance to the injector....

its the same principal as the valves on a TDI BUT one screw up is worth oh $1400is for each injector plus anything else you pooch.

fozzy is due a service shortly so if its of use to you since it uses the same design on the top end I can do the pics of that for you.

[justinc]

check the bore alignment of the Cam journals, new bearings if needed,

Definately do the bump clearances if I can find the pics of the detroit one that was set wrong I'll put them up for you very impressive levels of carnage.

Id pull the the valve springs and check the stems + clearances as well as getting confirmation on the hardness of the facing.


Dave,

These don't have seperate bearings for the cam, the tunnel through the head and cam box halves IS the bearing surface, rather like a Mitsu 4G32/37/52/54 bla bla galant/ sigma etc.
This is a problem if the cam picks up, but then again if THAT happens, the whole show is a bin job:(
As Pete said, it has only 98k, around 200 I'd be definately dong it, but I've pulled them apart at 250oddk and found them to be pretty good, but that depends a lot on servicing etc and the way the owner treats it. I'd reckon Pete dotes on this truck, even tucks it in at night and may even be caught in the wee hours reading 'Thomas the tank engine' stories to it with a mug of warm milk in hand...:o

JC

[Psimpson7]

check the bore alignment of the Cam journals, new bearings if needed,

Definately do the bump clearances if I can find the pics of the detroit one that was set wrong I'll put them up for you very impressive levels of carnage.

Id pull the the valve springs and check the stems + clearances as well as getting confirmation on the hardness of the facing.

Hi Dave,

The cam runs in the machined top face of the head casting and the underside of the top head section. It doesnt have bearing as such. Certainly none I could change.

eta Justin you beat me as always!

Rgds
Pete

[Psimpson7]

dont laugh at me:D youre so right!!! lol

Just sent you a PM Justin with another quick question!!

Cheers
Pete

[justinc]

Pete,

Another interesting thing you may have noticed is the shape of the cam lobes driving the injector rockers. They have VERY aggressive opening and closing ramps, and are that shape because the compression/duration of the actual injector plunger is controlled this way. Injection of fuel into the cylinder is controlled electronically via firing the solenoid in the unit injector body, so the plunger is there to provide pressure prior to actual injection.
Now you can see why a 5w** oil is recommended, so that these rollers and lobes get lots of oil QUICKLY on startup. Even so, early editions of this engine I have seen with hardfacing coming off the cam and rollers, even WITH 5w30 Mobil1 synthetic oil used from day 1.:mad:

Clean, high quality oil with a 5w rating is a must in these motors.

JC

[Psimpson7]

Thanks for the info Justin.

surface all look like new which is good

Oil is one thing I take very seriously. :)

Head is now looking like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/1.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

Dave,

These don't have seperate bearings for the cam, the tunnel through the head and cam box halves IS the bearing surface, rather like a Mitsu 4G32/37/52/54 bla bla galant/ sigma etc.
This is a problem if the cam picks up, but then again if THAT happens, the whole show is a bin job:(
As Pete said, it has only 98k, around 200 I'd be definately dong it, but I've pulled them apart at 250oddk and found them to be pretty good, but that depends a lot on servicing etc and the way the owner treats it. I'd reckon Pete dotes on this truck, even tucks it in at night and may even be caught in the wee hours reading 'Thomas the tank engine' stories to it with a mug of warm milk in hand...:o

JC

brain in friday arvo 3 beers down mode...

Id still be checking the bore alignment tho simply because the head was machined... been caught out on one where the thing had been machined but the cam journals were warped out. (not a td5)

[justinc]

brain in friday arvo 3 beers down mode...

Id still be checking the bore alignment tho simply because the head was machined... been caught out on one where the thing had been machined but the cam journals were warped out. (not a td5)

Aint that the truth, Thats why i dirtied this forum by mentioning that M word followed by the Sigma and Galant ones...:(

When those heads got hot, they were a waste of time trying to save them. I had a belt driven 4G32 (1600 L300 engine) sieze the cam and break the cambelt 20 minutes after fitting the 'reco' head onto it because this wasn't checked...:mad:

I'm on the 3rd Glass of Cab Sav, a $7.99 special that actually tastes very good, a 2004 vintage too:o Put some in the dinner(Spaghetti Bolegnaise) and had a quaff of the rest:D



JC

[justinc]

Thanks for the info Justin.

surface all look like new which is good

Oil is one thing I take very seriously. :)

Head is now looking like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/10/1.jpg

Whats the go here then? I hope that isn't the kitchen table you are working on!!!
:rulez:

JC

[Psimpson7]

lol... It was on the kitchen table when I picked it up:twisted: shh ;)

The blue table is one of the desks out of my 'home office'.

Only thing I had. Dont really have a work bench, so I decided to use that.

I have 2 of these desks. The other one isnt so tidy anymore as I accidentally drove my circular saw into it!! lol:)

[justinc]

Come on Pete, Surely it's back together, ready to drop on the engine ??


:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p


JC

[Psimpson7]

Lol, I wish:),

I have the head together up to the cam shaft and the casting that holds it together. Got that loctite sorted this morning so thats all good. Oiled everything with new engine oil as per the manual.

I have loads of pictures again so will do a walk through of the process.

Need to put on the rockers and set the injectors (manual says one full turn for the bump clerance) which I may do either this evening or in the morning. Will be stuck then as waiting the steel dowels for the head fitment!

I am also tied up putting our house back together so timing is the best for the head gasket to go!!:p

Rgds
Pete (knackered, and drinking a beer)

[justinc]

Lol, I wish:),

I have the head together up to the cam shaft and the casting that holds it together. Got that loctite sorted this morning so thats all good. Oiled everything with new engine oil as per the manual.

I have loads of pictures again so will do a walk through of the process.

Need to put on the rockers and set the injectors (manual says one full turn for the bump clerance) which I may do either this evening or in the morning. Will be stuck then as waiting the steel dowels for the head fitment!

I am also tied up putting our house back together so timing is the best for the head gasket to go!!:p

Rgds
Pete (knackered, and drinking a beer)

Good one!Can't wait to see the pics.

I'd wait until the head is on to set the bump clearances, you'll have a fine time trying to rotate that camshaft on the bench:o

Enjoy the beverage, you've earned it!

JC

[Psimpson7]

Good one!Can't wait to see the pics.

I'd wait until the head is on to set the bump clearances, you'll have a fine time trying to rotate that camshaft on the bench:o

Enjoy the beverage, you've earned it!

JC

Leaving it till the head is fitted is probably a very good idea actually:) Will make it a lot easier to turn over the entire engine without risk to anything.

latest pic

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/929.jpg

[justinc]

Leaving it till the head is fitted is probably a very good idea actually:) Will make it a lot easier to turn over the entire engine without risk to anything.

latest pic

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/929.jpg

Pete,
Make sure you toss those exhaust studs, and was the manifold face ABSOLUTELY straight?
This is a job to do before the head goes back on.:)

JC

[CraigE]

More of a question for JC in case I ever have to do this, but I thought if plastic dowels came out plastic dowels had to go back in?? I remember reading a thread a while ago to this effect and that the steel dowels could in fact cause damage.
Would just like to clarify this.
Cheers
CraigE
:):)

[Psimpson7]

Hi Craig, It seems to be a bit of a misconception

The steel dowels do seem to be interchangeable with the plastic ones.

Rgds
Peter.

[George130]

Good write up.
With the injectors they can become a problem.
When mine were removed it took 2 weeks and 3 workshops before they were out. One place even soaked the head for a week to try and free them.

[thebiglad]

Absolutely brilliant write-up. This series of TD5 head-work is just excellent for me as I'm about to do this on a Disco TD5.

Can I please just ask a dumb question? If the head looks flat and is gas tight, do you still need to strip the head like this?

I assumed I would be lifting the head, banging in a new head gasket and refiting the head - NO? Have I missed something - or a lot !!!!:eek::o:(:confused:

[Psimpson7]

You really need to skim the head, once its apart even if it hasnt been overheated as the gasket has in effect fire rings which dig in slightly.

You could probably get it skimmed built up (injectors and heater plugs would have to be removed at least) but I would prefer to strip it, just in case swarf and so on gets inside it