Series 2a questions re brakes,clutch and soft top.

[Benny_IIA]

Hi Everybody just a few tech questions. I have recently brought a 2a shorty that has sat for 10 years and done 70000 miles. Engine run fines however. Obvious problems are

1. Rear brake shoes are oil soaken. Is it a simple matter to replace the oil seal on axle. When doing the brakes should I reco the wheel cylinders or buy new ones?

2. Handbrake also oil soaked, is it easy to replace oil seal at rear of transfer case.

3. Should I reco or replace clutch and brake master/slave cylinders.

4. What is the best place to buy or have these parts recoonditioned in Brisbane.

5. Does anyone know where to source an original style soft top and tubular frame for same.

Any advice or assistance would be great.
Many thanks Stephen.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Benny answers in red.

Hi Everybody just a few tech questions. I have recently brought a 2a shorty that has sat for 10 years and done 70000 miles. Engine run fines however. Obvious problems are

1. Rear brake shoes are oil soaken. Is it a simple matter to replace the oil seal on axle. When doing the brakes should I reco the wheel cylinders or buy new ones? - Yes you should change the oil seal (and do the bearings at the same time) - you should also check the "Distance piece for bearing sleeve" on the stub axle Part number 217351 for wear or scoring, if damaged replace it.

2. Handbrake also oil soaked, is it easy to replace oil seal at rear of transfer case. It's easy but a bit of a hassle as you have to remove the rear prop shaft. As in above you also need to check that the seal surface on the output flange is not scored, it may require a speedi sleeve.

3. Should I reco or replace clutch and brake master/slave cylinders. - Depends on your pockets, a seal kit for a cylinder, usually costs less than $20 each, where a new wheel cylinder costs about $40 and master cylinders at least double. Stopping is something that is more important than anything so worth the trouble of replacing.

4. What is the best place to buy or have these parts recoonditioned in Brisbane. Don't know about Brisbane, but Rover Parts Plus in Bendigo Land Rover parts - Home (http://www.roverparts.com.au/home) do a mail order service and are quite inexpensive when compared to some others.

5. Does anyone know where to source an original style soft top and tubular frame for same. Ebay for the hood sticks, and there is someone doing reproduction military canvas hoods on REMLR - do a search for Official canopies thread.

Any advice or assistance would be great.
Many thanks Stephen.

[JDNSW]

As Diana says. Whether you need new hydraulic cylinders as opposed to the kits depends on the state of the cylinders. Less work to simply replace rather than overhaul, but costs a lot more. If money is no object, just get the new cylinders, if finances are tight, pull them apart and have a look first. Note that there are several different cylinders fitted - make sure you order the right ones - depends on short or long (and whether it has original equipment) and there were two types of master cylinder fitted.

The Series 2a should have the replaceable spacers on the stub axle but it is possible that the axle(s) (or just the stub axles/hubs) may have been swapped with late S3 ones where they are not replaceable. May pay to wait until you have it apart to check.

To do the hub seals you will need at a minimum, as well as the seals, a new lockwasher and drive flange gasket and felt washer for each wheel done.

Oil soaked brake linings will need to be relined - usually a changeover or send it off deal, either at a Landrover (non-dealer) specialist, a brake specialist, or even a place like Repco (There are only one or two places left in Australia that do relining of brake shoes so it will end up being done at the same place anyway). Or you may be able to find rivet type linings and do them yourself.

You are strongly advised to first get hold of a factory workshop manual, or failing that the Haynes one. A parts book is also useful for more than just ordering parts - it shows a lot better pictures than the workshop manual.

John

[Benny_IIA]

Cheers fellas thanks for the help..

[Lotz-A-Landies]

...Oil soaked brake linings will need to be relined - usually a changeover or send it off deal, either at a Landrover (non-dealer) specialist, a brake specialist, or even a place like Repco (There are only one or two places left in Australia that do relining of brake shoes so it will end up being done at the same place anyway). Or you may be able to find rivet type linings and do them yourself.

You are strongly advised to first get hold of a factory workshop manual, or failing that the Haynes one. A parts book is also useful for more than just ordering parts - it shows a lot better pictures than the workshop manual.

John
Benny as John says.

Re the linings, best to replace although you may get away with brake clean but largely depends on how much oil has penetrated.

Diana

[JDNSW]

Benny as John says.

Re the linings, best to replace although you may get away with brake clean but largely depends on how much oil has penetrated.

Diana

I thought about saying that, but Diana is right. Particularly if it has not been driven with oil on the linings, there is a good chance that you can clean the brake linings. But be prepared to spend a lot of time on it, and to replace them anyway if they don't come clean.

As an aside, there is a good chance that the linings on it contain asbestos, and you should definitely NOT use compressed air to clean these or any other brake linings.

John