How to fit a TD5 head.... Pt1

[Psimpson7]

Right then, lets put it back together. (with a couple of little extra jobs too)

Firstly drop down to the dealer, and get some more parts:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/512.jpg

Now, remove the old exhaust manifold studs. if you havent got a set of stud extractors, you can use 2 nuts like here:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/769.jpg

All removed:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/770.jpg

New ones fitted:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/771.jpg

Now swap the little bypass hose on the NS of the block:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/772.jpg

Clean block:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/55.jpg

Place dowels in (here is a comparison picture of the plastic(old) and steel dowels:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/773.jpg

Now place headgasket on, and lower head into place carefully:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/774.jpg

Now oil the threads and under the heads of the new head bolts:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/775.jpg

Place the head bolts in gently (dont drop), and in 2 stages torque them to the manual specified settings (cant remember - will edit this later):

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/776.jpg

Now make an angle gauge and mark a socket so you can tighten the head bolts to the required angle stages. these are 90degrees, then 180 degrees, then 45 degrees.

As each stage of rotation was done I marked the head with a permenant marker so I knew which ones were done:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/777.jpg

Once they are all tight fit and tighten the nut and bolt at the front of the head: Now lift the cam pulley onto the shaft ensureing everything is lined up as it should be:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/778.jpg

Finger tighten the cam pulley bolts, then back them off 1/2 a turn.

Then apply loctite 242 to cam chain guide, and refit:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/779.jpg

Then fit the cam chain tensioner and torque as required:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/780.jpg

Now tighten the cam pulley bolts:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/781.jpg

Now remove the locking pin for the camshaft

Now fit the vacuum hose:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/782.jpg

Now refit the alternator bracket:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/783.jpg

Next, fit the exhaust manifold gasket, and then the exhasut manifold, with new nuts:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/784.jpg

Thats as far as I have got so far. carry on tonight.

[llandro]

As mentioned previous, am very much enjoying your series on this project.

Just a couple of questions:
Looking at the block pic. I dont see any stud holes. Do the studs (only 12?) go down into what look like oil return ducts?
The studs seem very long, what dia. thread. (look only 10mm.?)

I have been wondering why the dowels so frequently fret on these engines, pehaps the amount of expansion/contraction of the alloy head could be the reason those few head studs (18 on 300tdi) stretch and allow the head to move and blow gaskets.

Have often thought would I would like a td5, (did look seriously at one, that bung in front of the camwheel was leaking quite badly) but maybe one should stay with the old 300, at least I know her pretty well!
llandro

[Psimpson7]

Hi Llandro,

The dowels are mainly an issue on the earlier <2002 engines as they are plastic. Later ones are steel.

Yes there are 12 head studs, and they do go down to the tapped holes at the base of the larger holes in the head face.

Tdi or Td5 is going to be down to personal preference, but I wouldnt have a 300 any more. I dont want this thread to turn into an argument on that please!!:angel:

Not sure on length of studs. Will check tonight on the old ones.

Rgds
Pete

[andymach23]

Nice work Pete!

Cheers

Andy

[Psimpson7]

:)Thanks Andy

[llandro]

Sorry Pete.
Didn't mean to divert/hijack, only contemplating aspects of the td5 engine I really know nothing about.
I am ever curious re design features of all things mechanical (Mech.E in previous life!)
rgds. Michael (llandro)

[Psimpson7]

:)no worries. update your other questions later (although Justinc will probably beat me to it!!;))

[extreme]

good work and well done.:clap2:

[Yorkie]

pete,
out of interest are your manifold bolts the standard 8mm? or have you gone the bigger 10mm as has been done by others.
cheers
yorkie :)
ps only asking as mine heads to the shop tomorrow for manifold fix.

[justinc]

Well done Pete!

Great, clean and meticulous job. Well documented also:)

You'd be getting more and more confident and familiar with your landy now I dare say!

On a side note, had a 2000 model 110 with 150K come in today with water consumption, cap leaking, overpressurising and intermittent heater operation...:(

...Do you want a job doing the head gasket on THAT one too?:p

JC

[Psimpson7]

Justin!!!!!! It runs!!!!!!!!!!!!!:):):):)

proper update shortly,.......:D:D

[Psimpson7]

Right then the final installment. The car started at 9pm this evening:).

firstly I finished fitting the exhaust manifold, and also the water pipe:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/731.jpg

Next I fitted the inlet manifold gasket:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/732.jpg

Now the inlet manifold. This was a bit fiddly but not too hard. It would have been easier to fit it to the head prior to fitting the head, but I wanted to reduce weight when we fitted the head.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/733.jpg

Next connect up the fuel lines to teh fuel block and the fuel cooler. Also connect up the electrical connector

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/734.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/735.jpg

Set the wiring loom neatly under the inlet manifold (sorry no picture)

Now refit fuel cooler:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/736.jpg

connect up glow plugs:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/737.jpg

connect up the Alternator power lead

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/738.jpg

Connect up the MAP sensor:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/739.jpg

Fit injector loom (probably not a bad time to fit a new one, but this one was new in June):

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/859.jpg

Plug up the injector loom:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/740.jpg

Now fit the cam shaft front plug, the injector loom connection and the wiring to the water temperature switch:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/741.jpg

Now connect up the turbo oil feed banjo bolt:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/742.jpg

Now fit water and intake pipes:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/743.jpg

Now we need to set the injector bump clearances. To do this, firstly you need to be able to turn the engine over by hand, so do this before you refit the fan.

Firstly get a breaker bar, and socket and fit to front pulley nut.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/744.jpg

Now rotate the engine clockwise until injector 1 is fully open. (ie teh cam lobe has pushed up teh rocker to its highest point)

Slacken off the lock nut (13mm)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/745.jpg

Get a screw driver and screw the adjuest down till you feel the injector pump bottom out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/746.jpg

Now back the screw off one entire turn.

Finally do up the lock nut.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/747.jpg

Do this to all 5 injectors, in order.

Now refit rocker cover:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/748.jpg

Prime fuel system, add water, and see if it starts:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/11/749.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v707/Psimpson7/headgasket/refit/?action=view&current=pic036-1.flv)

Big thanks to JustinC for all his help, advice and encouragement. Cheers Justin. Really really appreciate it:)

I have a few little jobs to do including bleeding the water system and, changing the water hoses and hose clips and so on but thats basically it.:)

Edited to add I also apparently need to thank my lovely girlfreind for all her help with lifting things, general technical assistance and bringing me beer and tea

[Psimpson7]

pete,
out of interest are your manifold bolts the standard 8mm? or have you gone the bigger 10mm as has been done by others.
cheers
yorkie :)
ps only asking as mine heads to the shop tomorrow for manifold fix.

Hi Yorkie,

I have just put a new set of the standard 8mm ones in. I haven't yet suffered with any manifold / stud issues.

Rgds
Pete.

[Only ever owned landys Ed]

Thanks mate,

I found your info on the head gasket repair great. Just pulled the head, its being faced, and will be back in the 130 tomorow. The job was easy and interesting. I have just changed the gearbox and clutch and I find that brain numbing.

Cheers Ed

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

Fantastic Tutorial!.
I nothing of Diesels as I drive a V8, but followed your post with interest as I would one day like to upgrade to a Diesel.
When people mention oil in the loom, I take it they are talking about the injector loom under the rocker cover???
If so how much oil is splashed around under there, in other words the cam rollers are obviously oil lubricated and the chain etc so does the underside of the rocker contain a lot of oil?
Does the loom and the injectors sit in oil?
Could extra sealing be applied to the wiring loom ends or the injector connectors be sheathed with something to keep oil of them
Sorry for so many questions, just interested as I've heard of oil in loom problems.

[Bareld]

Hello Pete,

You mention to make an angle gauge to tighten the headbolts to the specific torque.
Can you explain a little how you have done that.

Like many people in the rest of the world i´m going to change the head (turner type (http://turner-engineering.co.uk/html/specialoffers.html))

Your topic is a great help. Thanks for that

[slug_burner]

Hello Pete,

You mention to make an angle gauge to tighten the headbolts to the specific torque.
Can you explain a little how you have done that.

Like many people in the rest of the world i´m going to change the head (turner type (http://turner-engineering.co.uk/html/specialoffers.html))

Your topic is a great help. Thanks for that

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/01/988.jpg

[worane]

Hi, Thanks for this fantastic tutorial.
I too do not understand about the head tightening protractor .
Can you not just use a torque wrench?
Regards Nick Viner.

[PAT303]

The reason for the angle is to compensate for the friction or twist on the bolts as they are tightened,both will allow a Torque wrench to ''click'' without the correct amount of torque being applied to the bolts,if that makes sense. Pat

[worane]

OK. Pat 303, now it makes sense Thank you.
Regards, Nick.

[Tins]

Thanks heaps for this thread. I have to pull mine off, probably tomorrow, and this well detailed thread has given me back my confidence.

[Charles]

Hi Guys, I have just pulled head to change gasket...Do I still need to reset the "injector bump clearance" if I haven't pulled the head apart ?
Cheers, Charles

[discorevy]

Hi
It is worth doing just so you know they are correct, won't take more than 10 minutes .

[Charles]

Cheers discorevy