Meet "Len"

[cjc_td5]

Well after a few years looking around for a S1 project, one has finally come up for the right price and close enough to be convenient. Meet “Len” the 1954 86” with a few bumps and scrapes but what appears to be sound base to keep me amused for some time to come. Mechanically it appears sound and there is no structural rust to speak of. I am not looking to road register it or anything like that in the foreseeable future, but mainly to get it nice and tidy for running around the farm. The full body off restoration will come later when I have a bigger garage and more time.:)

It has a few challenges to sort out to get on the “road to mobility”. I haven’t obtained a set of workshop manuals yet so please excuse me if a few of my questions are easily covered by them.

- The engine block has a hole into the water gallery immediately in front of the exhaust manifold (see pic). I believe it should have a plug in it and would normally provide a port for a heater pipe (not fitted). What are my options? (Recut a thread and insert a new plug, fit a welsh plug?)

- The springs have sagged badly. I presume I might be able to get them reset (there is a workshop in Orange that does this). I presume this would be more feasible than obtaining replacements? I have read that getting the shackles off is going to be a pig of a job, one to look forward to……:D

- The exhaust is non-existent rear of the passenger side footwell. While this gives a meaty sound, it does not necessarily endear me to the neighbourhood.:angel: I presume to get a new exhaust pipe would be custom job and the local exhaust workshop (rather than a standard pattern being available to have one bent up from)??

I look forward to sharing of our collective expertise to hopefully avoid the common pitfalls of LR ownership.

Cheers,
Chris

[williampp]

Hi Chris, I am just starting on a 1955 86 series 1, looks very much like yours.
With the hole in the block, it appears to have a thread in it , so I borrowed a 3/4 inch pipe tap and cleaned out the thread. Then made up a brass plug, screwed it in to make sure it fitted, but did not screw it to tight. It has to be made flush with the block (the exhaust manifold fits partly over it), so I marked it with a hacksaw, removed it, cut at mark, silver soldered a short bolt to the middle, screwed it back in with some gasket goo, cut off the bolt, used the angle grinder (carefully) to level it. It looks OK.
Hope this helps

[JDNSW]

Well after a few years looking around for a S1 project, one has finally come up for the right price and close enough to be convenient. Meet “Len” the 1954 86” with a few bumps and scrapes but what appears to be sound base to keep me amused for some time to come. Mechanically it appears sound and there is no structural rust to speak of. I am not looking to road register it or anything like that in the foreseeable future, but mainly to get it nice and tidy for running around the farm. The full body off restoration will come later when I have a bigger garage and more time.:)

It has a few challenges to sort out to get on the “road to mobility”. I haven’t obtained a set of workshop manuals yet so please excuse me if a few of my questions are easily covered by them.

- The engine block has a hole into the water gallery immediately in front of the exhaust manifold (see pic). I believe it should have a plug in it and would normally provide a port for a heater pipe (not fitted). What are my options? (Recut a thread and insert a new plug, fit a welsh plug?)

If it has been threaded I would clean up the thread and replace the plug.

- The springs have sagged badly. I presume I might be able to get them reset (there is a workshop in Orange that does this). I presume this would be more feasible than obtaining replacements? I have read that getting the shackles off is going to be a pig of a job, one to look forward to……:D

First thing to do is to apply penetrating oil to the shackles, and repeat regularly for a couple of weeks. It may turn out to not be a problem since it seems to be an inland vehicle.

Since the springs are interchangeable, if not identical, up to the end of Series 3 production, there is no problem getting new springs (albeit expensive!). Unfortunately the thin leaves the springs use seem to be no longer available, and new springs will have thicker and fewer leaves.

You can even fit parabolic springs. Resetting might be less expensive, but is likely to be less satisfactory.

- The exhaust is non-existent rear of the passenger side footwell. While this gives a meaty sound, it does not necessarily endear me to the neighbourhood.:angel: I presume to get a new exhaust pipe would be custom job and the local exhaust workshop (rather than a standard pattern being available to have one bent up from)??

All exhaust components seem to be available from, for example, Four Wheel Drives, probably also from Land Vehicle Spares , a bit nearer to you. At the prices in my copy of Four Wheel Drives catalogue, I would not consider getting one made.

I look forward to sharing of our collective expertise to hopefully avoid the common pitfalls of LR ownership.

Cheers,
Chris

It looks like a basically sound specimen, although you will certainly have quite a bit of work to do!

Hope the above helps.

John

[Aaron IIA]

The hole is for a welsch plug, not a heater. It is not threaded. Replace it with a welsch plug.

Obtaining replacement road springs is normally a straight forward job. Go to a spring manufacturer, and tell them what you want. If I was going to the effort to remove the springs, I would not mess around with putting the old ones back on, unless they were in very good condition.

You may be able to get an off the shelf exhaust for your Land Rover. When I bought a front pipe for my SIIA last year, it was about $70. I will enquire if they have SI pipes aswell.

Aaron.

[Aaron IIA]

If the hole is actually threaded, it will probally be 1" 16TPI British Sandard Conduit. 3/4 BSP is 14TPI, so a BSP fitting will start, but bind up. If you can get a British Standard Conduit tap then use it, else use a thread file to clean the thread.

Plugs using 1" British Standard Conduit are available from Land Rover parts specialists.

Aaron.

[Sleepy]

Looks good Chris:thumbsup:

[ellard]

Hi there Chris

A nice looking project - and looking forwards to the updates.

I think your inital question has been answered within the posts above.

The pictures you have posted above - its not all that clear but does your vehicle have a steel skid plate under the fuel tank also protecting the master cylinder (from the front drivers side wheel well under the fuel tank).

Could this vehicle originally originated from SA - as this sort of protection was a common conversion on Land Rovers used on the Woomera Rocket Range........(do you have any more close up pictures). .

Hi there I have attached a picture of the skid plate under the drivers side on my ex Woomera Fire Engine.......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/503.jpg
All the best

Wayne

[Hartley]

My 55 2 litre had a threaded plug, but the thread in the head was badly corroded and beyond repair, so I made it into a slightly larger hole with a grinding point in a drill and inserted a welsh plug. The size was ever so much smaller than 1 inch, but I dont remember the exact fraction. It worked ok but I was very careful with the grinding and may have just been lucky.

[Aaron IIA]

Wayne, from the pictures privided, it looks to me as if it has the same skid plate as your vehicle.

Aaron.

[JDNSW]

Wayne, from the pictures privided, it looks to me as if it has the same skid plate as your vehicle.

Aaron.


Sure does!

John

[cjc_td5]

Hi there Chris
The pictures you have posted above - its not all that clear but does your vehicle have a steel skid plate under the fuel tank also protecting the master cylinder (from the front drivers side wheel well under the fuel tank).

Could this vehicle originally originated from SA - as this sort of protection was a common conversion on Land Rovers used on the Woomera Rocket Range........(do you have any more close up pictures). .



Wayne,
Yes Len does have engine sump and fuel tank guards. It also has the remnants of a six digit SA numberplate on the front that I can just make out the SA prefix and most numbers.

I would be chuffed if it did spend some time at Woomera, its name is course is a reference to the one and only Len B who spent so much of his life in Land Rovers out in that part of the country.

I have scratched around the edges of the hole in the block with an engineer's scribe to try to find remnants of a thread, but no trace could be found. It would essentually require reaming out to a larger diameter and recut a new thread, or pursue the welsh plug option. My concern with a welsh plug is setting the plug with no shoulder in the hole to tap it against. I don't really want to have to think about trying to retrieve a welsh plug from inside the water gallery!

Also for the experts, are the bolt heads etc on Len going to be AF etc or Whitworth sizings?

[olmate]

Chris,

Good on you mate ;) That is a nice looking Series 1 :D

[JDNSW]

Wayne,
..........
Also for the experts, are the bolt heads etc on Len going to be AF etc or Whitworth sizings?

It is long enough since I worked on one of those engines that I am not absolutely sure.

But I would be very surprised if there were any Unified (AF) bolts or nuts on the Series 1 as it came from the factory, including the engine (although the diesel engine was probably Unified from scratch as it was a new design). I am pretty certain that when I owned a Series 1 (and that included doing rings and bearings) I did not own any AF spanners!

Of course, over its life many of the bolts may have been replaced with Unified thread ones, but this would not have included engine studs such as head bolts.

John

[series1buff]

My two pennies worth... or tuppence worth

The two holes either end of the exhaust manifold were originally threaded with a odd British thread. The 107" 2 litre I had years ago was weeping at both ends .. I did a fix similar to William ... I bought a 3/4" BSP tap and re-tapped the holes .. BSP plugs are available at any hardware store from Cloncurry to Huonville. You have to grind down the new plug head to a bit clear the manifold ... A bit of teflon tape on the thread and bobs your uncle.

I've heard of others using a normal cup type welsh plug with good results as well...but you would need a effective sealant i think ..maybe .

BTW there is a third plug in the block .. in the centre of the head surface ...what is does.. its function - is a mystery.

Mike

[Aaron IIA]

My concern with a welsh plug is setting the plug with no shoulder in the hole to tap it against. I don't really want to have to think about trying to retrieve a welsh plug from inside the water gallery!


This is how normal welsh plugs work. There is no shoulder for the cup style. To remove them, you do indeed press one side into the water jacket. The other side then comes out, so you can get a grip on it and pull it out.

Aaron.

[chazza]

The fasteners should all have Whitworth/BS head. Most of the threads I have measured have been BSF.

Cheers Charlie

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The hole is for a welsch plug, not a heater. It is not threaded. Replace it with a welsch plug....
It is not a Welsh plug.

There are 4 cup plug holes on the 2 litre block where you can choose to use Welsh plugs if you like, 3 under the inlet manifold and a fourth at the rear of the block (and the reason why so many S1s have a hole cut in the firewall.

The hole in question is for a solid core plug, yes they have a steep angled thread, are supplied in various diameter sizes and are screwed in tight to the block and then often machined off depending on location. There are several more of them in the head, on the deck of the block and on the block under exhaust manifold. If you inspect a head or block, they look like little circles of different coloured metal.

There are a number of ways to repair them, probably the correct one is the bore out the hole to the next larger size and replace it with a new solid core plug.

Be a little careful to check the block if they have come out. Put your finger inside and feel around, there can sometimes be erosion behind/around the hole which may require more significant repair to replace the erroded metal. Including welding in a cast iron plug.

Diana

[back_in]

Hi all
the thread is known as British Standard Pipe or British Standard Water
or something very much like that
The screw in plugs come in banks of 6
you screw the plug in and cut the rest off with a hack saw
and plenty of No 3 non drying sealant
cheers
Ian

p.s. if any need some I can supply a pair or 2

[cjc_td5]

Things have been moving along slowly on Len's resurrection when time permits.

Got the hole in the block sorted. Turns out it only needed the thread recut and a new 3/4" BSP gal plug. All fixed.

Have been working at getting the bodywork off so that I can rebuilt up from the chassis etc. I have been suprised at how easily most bolts have come off. No where near as much cursing as I expected (so far). That said, I have developed a knack of shearing off quite a few of the rusted bolts that secure the bodywork as the best method of removal. I was going to replace them anyway.

I am now down to the chassis and have spent some time with the degreaser and a toothbrush removing layers of grease and grime. Things look much more presentable now though! The chassis still has quite a bit of colour on it, of a strange yellow/orange. I would like to repaint it the same colour, as it appears that it is the same colour it left the factory with and is a bit different to the normal green. I only have to work out what colour code it is???

Re the rear "drawbar" tow hitch. Can someone show me a photo of how it should look like? It appears that it should attach with four bolts to a flange on the inside of the rear crossmember? This flange has been severly ripped out and it appears that a "thorough" welding job has been done to afix it again. I am going to grind it off and do a neater job. Anyone supply a photo of what it should look like?

Cheers,
Chris

[chazza]

Might be agood idea to get the chassis colour matched at the paint shop Chris; I doubt anyone has a paint code that makes sense nowadays,

Cheers Charlie

[DiscoDave]

Chris your S1 looks a great project! :)
Have you downloaded the User Manual and Parts Manual from the top of this section?
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/41742-downloadable-user-repair-manuals.html
They'll answer a lot of questions. e.g. about drawbar options. ;)

Sump guards? I can dream I guess...

[easo]

A bit late but here is what my plug looks, I'll post my draw bar ASAP, Easo

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/198.jpg

[easo]

Not the best but here we go, if you need any further pics of any thing just ask.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/1461.jpg

A bit hard too get the reverse shots.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/1462.jpg

Cheers Easo

[cjc_td5]

Thanks Easo,
It looks like the drawbar is only held onto the crossmember by the four bolts at the rear of the crossmember. As there is no support at the front face of the drawbar (when looking from behind the vehicle,) I would have thought that any serious downforce onto the drawbar would peel the flange off the crossmember, as has happened to mine.

More investigations to do...
Cheers

[cjc_td5]

A couple of photos from my exploits...
Firstly, the repaired plug. The hole in the other end of the block has the same type of plug as this. I had to file a little off one of the flats to clear the exhaust manifold.

Secondly, the removed engine sump guard showing the dirt that was packed solid between the guard and sump.

I have relieved Len of many kgs of dirt/grease/sand so far. Most interesting was the red sand cleaned from inside one chassis outrigger. Must have been from very early in its service life??

Have fun,
Chris

[dennisS1]

Looks good nothing like a new project.
A few comments, the colour of the chassis is probably the same as the rest of the car was painted at that year model, so it looks like you have one of the colourful ones.
The plugs in the head near the exhaust manifold are not welsh plugs but sacrificial anodes made from aluminium alloy the are available and as already stated are British electrical conduit thread, if lucky your local electrician will have a tap. Put them in with a little sealer and they should not leak, but at 4psi on a very bad day it doesn’t take much to keep the water in.
Dennis

[chazza]

Thanks Easo,
It looks like the drawbar is only held onto the crossmember by the four bolts at the rear of the crossmember. As there is no support at the front face of the drawbar (when looking from behind the vehicle,) I would have thought that any serious downforce onto the drawbar would peel the flange off the crossmember, as has happened to mine.

More investigations to do...
Cheers

It also held by two bolts at the inboard face of the crossmember, from what I recall,

Cheers Charlie

[easo]

It also held by two bolts at the inboard face of the crossmember, from what I recall,

Cheers Charlie

I'll try for some better pics tomorrow, Easo.

[cjc_td5]

The radiator in Len has a sprung a leak in the core and with the previous repairs also there, I am looking at recoring it so I know it is right.

I have been quoted $630 for this work.:o It looks like a core has to be specifically made for it.

Has anyone else had their S1 radiator recored? What did it cost? Are there other options?

I have no problem paying if that is what it costs, I just want to check that I am not getting done over...

Cheers

[chazza]

Way back in 1982, a S3 re-core cost my brother-in-law $500 so the quote you received doesn't surprise me. :(

It is worth ringing around though, to every place in the yellow pages; even businesses trading under the same name, have huge variations in price between premises!

Cheers Charlie

[back_in]

Hi
it is one thing that has not worried me
i have 7 radiators lying around the shed
never though they could be worth that much
now the price of copper has dropped
cheers
Ian

[cjc_td5]

After a few months pulling everything apart and then being faced with the painting hurdle (with a bit of a lack of enthusiasm thrown in), I finally bit the bullet and laid some paint down on the chassis and bulkhead on Saturday. Also helped that winter is not painting weather in Orange and Saturday was the hottest day we have had for a few months...

Anyway I am pretty pleased with the results. I had the colour matched off a dismantled sample and left the compartment behind the instruments unpainted to assess the match later. I cannot tell any difference between the original and the new paint so am pretty pleased. I am no gun spray painter but you cannot see the blemishes from a distance :p

Cant wait to lift the engine back in and reinstall the bulkhead so it looks more like a vehicle again! Also want to reinstall some bits while I can remember where they all went!! :)

Also have to sort the undercarriage (springs, axles etc). Have got hold of a couple of rear springs that have a bit of wear left in them. They tidied up nicely with a wire brush this afternoon. What colour do you think the axles should be painted (body colour or black)??

Cheers,
Chris

[ellard]

Hi there Chris

Starting to take shape.......and looking good.

Quick question "Whats the paint Colour"

Wayne

[cjc_td5]

Hi there Chris

Starting to take shape.......and looking good.

Quick question "Whats the paint Colour"

Wayne

Wayne,
The colour was specifically matched off a sample by a local panel shop. It does not have a name as such. I can dig up the "recipe" sheet that was used to develop the colour match if you would like it.

Chris

[ellard]

Hi there Chris

No problems I will do the same......take a sample in of the vehicle which is closest to original as possible.

But looking good mate.........


Wayne

[digger]

Wayne,
The colour was specifically matched off a sample by a local panel shop. It does not have a name as such. I can dig up the "recipe" sheet that was used to develop the colour match if you would like it.

Chris

maybe "lens sandy landy"??:D

nice vehicle and with woomera history you may even find a pic or two
in the archives...i nothing else of a similar one to see how set up etc...

watching keenly!

[chris1983rangie]

Hi Chris,

cool Landy mate, its coming along well. Don't you just love the smell of fresh paint! neat colour, i have some spare fenders that are that colour.

keep the pics coming Cheers Chris;)

[cjc_td5]

Well Len started last weekend! Was a bit nervous as it had been a year of dismantling, cleaning, painting and reassmebly to get to a point where there was enough assembled to enable the engine to start. It took most of day sorting little issues (water and oil leaks mainly) but after getting the timing right it settled down to a smooth enough idle. Yay! Now to get the front axle sorted so that I can get it off the chassis stands and get it moving.:D:D

I have lifted the rear tub onto the back so that I can start cleaning it up to be repainted. There is a spring clip at the rear of the tub (see photo) that I hope someone might be able to shed some light on its purpose? Is it in the right position for rear seats? Maybe it was installed to carry some type of equipment in its previous life? There is a hole (more of a gash really) in a similar position near the transom that might have held a similar clip.

I will get some better general progress pics when I clean some of the accumulated junk from around it this weekend.

Cheers,
Chris

[mightgeta4be]

Currently reading Lens books for the second time around. One thing that always sticks in my mind is the Trip he did back to Cook over and over the dunes in the heat. When you sit in your Rover can you picture the senario and imagine doing it on a diet of bully beef, Jam, cocoa and probably not much quality water. sorry if its a bit off track on your resto

[ellard]

Hi there

Its a nice restoration you have ther.


There is a spring clip at the rear of the tub (see photo) that I hope someone might be able to shed some light on its purpose? Is it in the right position for rear seats? Maybe it was installed to carry some type of equipment in its previous life?


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/22189d1265105248-meet-len-tub-before-work-2-10-009-2.jpg

The clip is the same type used behind the seat backs for the crank handle etc...it may have been relocated for better axcess

I will make contact with a old retired mechanic from Woomera and see it he can help.

All the best

Wayne

[cjc_td5]

An Update.
Finally, Len now has four wheels again and went for a drive up and down the driveway today! After countless hours of rebuilding brakes, front axle, steering etc today it all went back together and proved to the SWMBI that it can move again and will not permanently take up half of our garage.:D

Now to have some fun with the body panels... I have missed the painting season in Orange so might just put the panels back together doing repairs as I go. We also might have a house move on the cards in a few months so have to make sure everything will be fully mobile when required.

It is satisfying to see your work come together and do what it is supposed to do after spending such time (and money) on it. Makes the hobby worth while...

Cheers,
Chris

[Landy Smurf]

looking good and is good to hear it is making you happy

[cjc_td5]

Well, its been a long time since I updated this thread!! :o:(
Since 2010 Len has moved across the country and we have built a house, which has taken up any spare time. Len has been doing odd jobs around the house including towing a trailer to move sand around, carrying tools around etc.

Anyway, I am having a fit of inspiration at the moment that I am trying to ride for all its worth! :D I would love to have it registered ready for a 65th aniversary drive in Perth on the 23rd June, we'll see....

Recent jobs have been:
- Preparing front wings for a coat of paint. Many cycles of filling and sanding to make them half reasonable. They will be no showcases but definately better than the originals!
- Ordered and installed a new wiring loom. The old loom was fine for basic engine operation, but was going to need some serious work to get the ancillary lights etc working. I got it from vinwire as it was easier to communicate with an oz company and they were happy to install additional wiring for indicators. It was a breeze to install.
- Ordered a box of goodies from the UK. A set of indicator lights and a D light and front parkers to replace current unservicable ones.
- A win with the wiper motor as per my other thread.

I fitted the rear lights and rear turn indicators over the weekend and the headlights now work. Its starting to transition into a real car!

Anyway, hopefully there'll be some more updates soon! :)

Cheers,

[mfc]

are youre blinkers glass lensed? there what i need to ditch the trailer lights on mine.
cheers mark
although im considering using the side light type on the front as per extra equipment ...indicators ..shown mounted next to the present one on front wing pannel in w shop manual

[cjc_td5]

are youre blinkers glass lensed? there what i need to ditch the trailer lights on mine.
cheers mark
although im considering using the side light type on the front as per extra equipment ...indicators ..shown mounted next to the present one on front wing pannel in w shop manual

The amber indicator lights have plastic lenses. We'll see how they last I suppose...

The rear lights are mounted on the lower rear panels where there were lights previously, so covering holes already drilled. On the front I intend to fabricate L shaped brackets and mount using the bumper bar bolts (ie the light sitting on top of the chassis rail just behind the bumper. I've spent too much time filling holes in my front guards to drill holes in them!

On a side note, the indicator stalk assembly I bought (from Vintage Supplies in the UK incidently) had a cracked lense for the light on the end of the stalk. They have agreed to send another at no cost. Top service I recon.:)

Cheers,

[mfc]

i used the l bracket idea works well enough . ive seen those blinkers advertised with glass lenses{that style}

[cjc_td5]

Hi All.
One strengthening gusset at the rear of my tub has been torn and broken as below.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Does anyone have a spare or busted tub that this bracket could be salvaged from??? It is easy enough to remove by drilling out the spot welds.

Happy to pay costs/postage etc or travel to Perth to pick up.....

Cheers,

[cjc_td5]

I am having a fit of inspiration again and just want to get this thing finished so it can be used...

Both front guards and bonnet were painted months ago but I had delayed getting the RH guard on as I had a leaking seal in the steering box. I was preparing to remove the steering column to replace the seal when I had the brain wave that I could just remove the steering shaft in-situ to get to the seal! That turned out to the dead easy so now the guard is on and onwards we go to finishing off some details and moving to the back.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95700&stc=1&d=1435486214

Could someone who has the rubber buffers to stop the doors swinging into the the front guards measure up the diameter and height so I can turn up a couple on the lathe?

Have fun....
Chris

[crackers]

She's looking very nice. Lovely colour.

Regarding that wiring loom, there's not much of it is there. Talk about basic.

[ellard]

Hi there buddy


This is my 54 - 86" - same colour:



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1195.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/firefighter_sa/media/86%20SWB%20Land%20Rover/DSCF1897.jpg.html)



[/URL]
[URL=http://s5.photobucket.com/user/firefighter_sa/media/86%20SWB%20Land%20Rover/DSCF1899.jpg.html]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1196.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/firefighter_sa/media/86%20SWB%20Land%20Rover/DSCF1921.jpg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1197.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/firefighter_sa/media/86%20SWB%20Land%20Rover/DSCF1896.jpg.html)



Wayne

[harry]

Hi All.
One strengthening gusset at the rear of my tub has been torn and broken as below.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=86580&stc=1&d=1415089545

Does anyone have a spare or busted tub that this bracket could be salvaged from??? It is easy enough to remove by drilling out the spot welds.

Happy to pay costs/postage etc or travel to Perth to pick up.....

Cheers,


it wouldn't be that hard to make if you can make a copy of the right hand side one from a bit of decent timber, cut a bit of ally to the rough shape and hammer the curved part in.
just be careful how you drill out the spot welds, do not drill larger than 3/16 inch and chisel the piece off with care.
you can beat up the new bit and rivet it on with countersunk rivets.
I think I might be a bit far away to help you, but an airline ticket would get me there if you wish.

[Dark61]

"Could someone who has the rubber buffers to stop the doors swinging into the the front guards measure up the diameter and height so I can turn up a couple on the lathe?"


I've enjoyed reading this thread mate + the pics.


Just went out and measured the door stop and I have 1.4cm height & 2.4cm width . Mine are convex so I measured as best I could to the centre from the bodywork. I have a 57. Not sure if the stops are original or not , but no reason to believe otherwise.
cheers,
D

[cjc_td5]

Its' been a little while (again) since my last update....
Well the 86" is now on the road. I had a deadline to get it registered to participate in a club event in September. There was a huge rush of all of the little things required to get a vehicle from drive-able to road ready, including mirrors, mudflaps, sort some shocks & bump stops etc etc etc. Anyway it passed its pits inspection first time. I think the inspector was more bemused at the vehicle and he spent more time checking numbers than anything else. Didn't even take it for a road test. Ha, I did make sure it was a wet day and left the roof off though...

144758

144759

144760

144761

It is very satisfying to drive on the road. Motors along nicely. Not sure I'd want to drive it Broome though....

About the only thing I have not touched in the 10 year sporadic restoration has been the engine and gearbox. There is nothing of concern with the gearbox but the engine is showing signs of ring wear and general age. I am going to have a go at undertaking a light rebuild of the engine and have started a thread for this.

Cheers,
Chris

[JDNSW]

Well done! One point I find interesting though. You mention mudflaps as being essential for roadworthy.

Having used and seen Landrovers from the 1950s, I am pretty certain that I had never seen any fitted with mudflaps until about 1980. Certainly none of the ones I owned from 1962 on came with them until the 1986 County. My 2a was registered in Victoria without, but I had fitted them by the time I registered it in NSW in 1993, although that was not why I fitted them - it was to try and reduce the stone damage to the trailer!

Are they really required for registration? Very few of the vehicle equipment rules are retrospective.

[cjc_td5]

Well done! One point I find interesting though. You mention mudflaps as being essential for roadworthy.

Having used and seen Landrovers from the 1950s, I am pretty certain that I had never seen any fitted with mudflaps until about 1980. Certainly none of the ones I owned from 1962 on came with them until the 1986 County. My 2a was registered in Victoria without, but I had fitted them by the time I registered it in NSW in 1993, although that was not why I fitted them - it was to try and reduce the stone damage to the trailer!

Are they really required for registration? Very few of the vehicle equipment rules are retrospective.Thanks John.
To be honest I was pre-emptive with the mudflaps. They may not have been required but I wanted to avoid the potential argument.
Cheers Chris.