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Big D
10th November 2008, 10:06 PM
Received a desperate phone call at work from SWMBO today saying that the rear door wouldn't close and it opened whilst driving. Apparently after some more muscle and a nasty sounding crunch, the door is now closed permanently:(.

Probable cause is dust in the lock and a door that has sagged (about 2mm gap between the top of the door seal and the bottom of the door frame). Before I can use the useful tips elsewhere in the in the forum, the problem now is how do I open the door?

Neither the external or internal handles "feel" connected, but the door has latched. I have tried to lift the door (jemmy bar) to no avail.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

McDisco
10th November 2008, 10:11 PM
Kick it! Thats what I did...and it worked! :D

Sorry...that doesnt help. Open it from the inside maybe?

Angus

Zute
11th November 2008, 02:09 AM
My rear door sticks every now and than too. I have to climb in the back, pull the inside handle a couple of times swear at it, hit the door near the lock than pull the inside latch again and than it opens.
You can also remove the door trim and rip the plastic dust sheeting. This will appease the Land Rover gods some times and the door will work with out even touching the lock.
Good luck,but you will need to donate money to fix it properly I imagine.

Every time I try to find the fault, it starts working.:mad:

MickG
12th January 2009, 10:33 AM
I now too have the same problem. My rear door it seems is now permanently cloed even after repeated locking and unlocking, the handle feels as though it is not attached to anything. Problame is I have a cargo barrier so cannot access from inside. Looked at the RAVE cd but can't find anything showing how I can remove any of the handle mechanism from outsode the car, is this possible?

Have yet to kick the door but that's coming soon if I cannot take the rear handle apart from outside.

Hope someone can help, Mick

gofish
12th January 2009, 01:14 PM
This happens to me sometimes. The (rear) door handle feels like its stuck in. I find if I "pull" it out just using my finger-tips & then re-lock & unlock then it is OK....good luck.

MickG
12th January 2009, 01:16 PM
This happens to me sometimes. The (rear) door handle feels like its stuck in. I find if I "pull" it out just using my finger-tips & then re-lock & unlock then it is OK....good luck.

Unfortunately mine ws doing that some months back and I managed to fix it. Mine is now springing back into place but seems to not be actually atachd to the locking mechanism inside the latch....I presume anyway.

dullbird
12th January 2009, 01:32 PM
I had this problem! also had it with 3 other doors on my car as well. It was the spring inside the lock that had failed.....with out realising a lot of people think they have to change the locking mechanism, as that is what a lot of mechanics recommend.

But you can in fact buy the springs and change them.....how ever my car is a D1 not a D I'm only speculating that the locks are set up the same.

trev
12th January 2009, 09:09 PM
You might be lucky! prise off the Rover badge on the door and spray something like WD40 into it. It sometimes will free up the latching parts enough to open it.

Disco2tow
12th January 2009, 09:41 PM
Not that I am an expert but my rear door has a similar problem I have been told it is a solenoid or regulator that slips. Mine has to be manually unlocked using the key. I can also see something sticking out into the trim I haven't got around to investigating that yet.
I also had a driver’s side door jam up on my hilux and that was the actual latch that was cracked & broken. It was similar to what you are saying it wouldn't open inside or out; moving the handles did nothing. I took it to an auto electrician as I thought it had something to do with the alarm/central locking. How he got into that door with the seat steering wheel etc in his way I have no idea. :eek:
Can you get your cargo barrier out at all?

Bundalene
12th January 2009, 09:55 PM
Hi, not sure if all the above problems are the same. There is a known fault with the rear door lock mech on the Series2 Disco. This is associated with the child proof lever located on the side of the door edge adjacent to the side of the car.

The symptoms for this are that the door mechanism clicks twice as it should when unlocking with the FOB and the button on the inside of the door goes up but the rear handle nor the inside handle allow the door to be opened.

To release you have to first locate the position of the child proof mech (compare with someone else's car), then remove the door seal from the inside and with a hooked piece of wire, jiggle the child proof mechanism. This may be located behind a rubber block.

My car used to do this when I tried to open the door when still locked.

Erich

Disco2tow
13th January 2009, 01:23 AM
When you say it is a known fault did they have a recall on it?
I never thought of that mine won't open from the inside at all.
From the outside it keeps locking unless you turn the key and open the door at the same time. I might try what you said I'll let you know if it makes a difference. I think someone has left a spanner in there too I can see part of it! :bangin:


Hi, not sure if all the above problems are the same. There is a known fault with the rear door lock mech on the Series2 Disco. This is associated with the child proof lever located on the side of the door edge adjacent to the side of the car.

The symptoms for this are that the door mechanism clicks twice as it should when unlocking with the FOB and the button on the inside of the door goes up but the rear handle nor the inside handle allow the door to be opened.

To release you have to first locate the position of the child proof mech (compare with someone else's car), then remove the door seal from the inside and with a hooked piece of wire, jiggle the child proof mechanism. This may be located behind a rubber block.

My car used to do this when I tried to open the door when still locked.

Erich

Bundalene
13th January 2009, 04:18 PM
When you say it is a known fault did they have a recall on it?
I never thought of that mine won't open from the inside at all.
From the outside it keeps locking unless you turn the key and open the door at the same time. I might try what you said I'll let you know if it makes a difference. I think someone has left a spanner in there too I can see part of it! :bangin:

There was no recall that I am aware of.

I am a bit confused though because the Series2 Discos I have come across don't have a key mech on the back door. Are we talking about the same type of lock?

Erich

Graeme
13th January 2009, 04:52 PM
When you say it is a known fault did they have a recall on it?

The lock was re-designed in the area of the child-proof lock lever, specifically the lever's over-centre spring mounting which can cause the main mechanism to foul. My 10/02 build has the later mechanism and can still suffer from dust ingress but at least the lock can be unlatched from the inside, sometimes requiring the external handle to be pressed to take the load off the mechanism at the same time.

Edit: Removing that over-centre spring from the earlier locks overcomes the problem.

wardy1
13th January 2009, 05:17 PM
You might be lucky! prise off the Rover badge on the door and spray something like WD40 into it. It sometimes will free up the latching parts enough to open it.

I had this problem and using a pocket knife very carefully I was able to prise the LR badger off and get some silicone spray into the mechanism. This kept it all free for at least 6 months. I removed the trim etc and dried off the whole thing (and removed the dust using a petrol soaked rag (so that it dried again) then used some dry graphite I bought from Bunnings.... been fine ever since. My advice is that you DONT use a wet lubricant as the dust will stick to it like s##t.:nazilock:
Hope this helps.... BTW, I had the same problem with having a cargo barrier so really had to get in this way.

4bee
13th January 2009, 06:43 PM
Amazing that some people still want to fit another two seats in there for their precious cargo.

One good thump in the a*** end & the kids could be injured & locked in.:(

Psimpson7
13th January 2009, 07:00 PM
not if there isnt a cargo barrier they wouldn't.

It wouldnt be legal to carry passengers behind a cargo barrier anyway

4bee
13th January 2009, 07:42 PM
You know that & I know that, but tell the clowns who still do. ;)

Disco2tow
14th January 2009, 01:45 AM
Well that explains why mine doesn't have this problem.


There was no recall that I am aware of.

I am a bit confused though because the Series2 Discos I have come across don't have a key mech on the back door. Are we talking about the same type of lock?

Erich

MickG
26th January 2009, 11:56 AM
Finally got round to looking at why my rear door would not open and discovered that the arm from the handle had come adrift of the lcok itself - see pics below of before and after. Was no easy feat getting to the door in the first place as I had to remove the cargo barrier from the inside (knuckles and fingers slightly bruised and skinned now:() which allowed me to use the internal handle.
Anyway, rear door latch now working again although I may need to replace the hinge mechanism soon as this took a pounding when I bumped my car off road and is looking very fragile......door is crunching shut badly even after trying to raise the whole door slightly to stop it fouling.
Anyway, will post again if I get round to doing anything about that part.

Thank you again for the info, aye, Mick

trev
27th January 2009, 09:52 PM
I had this problem and using a pocket knife very carefully I was able to prise the LR badger off and get some silicone spray into the mechanism. This kept it all free for at least 6 months. I removed the trim etc and dried off the whole thing (and removed the dust using a petrol soaked rag (so that it dried again) then used some dry graphite I bought from Bunnings.... been fine ever since. My advice is that you DONT use a wet lubricant as the dust will stick to it like s##t.:nazilock:
Hope this helps.... BTW, I had the same problem with having a cargo barrier so really had to get in this way.

Wardy1 you are right!
Dry lubes are the way to go.Otherwise everything clags up with the dust.
Only suggested WD40 as a temp. quick fix,(maybe!)

Trev.

Psimpson7
27th January 2009, 09:57 PM
Nice one Mick!!:)

DiscoDan
30th January 2009, 11:24 PM
Hey Mick,

if you need door hinges, the D1 ones works just fine,

I have also found the locking mechanism is the same in a D2 as a D1, this might make it easier for locating parts.

I checked parts between a 98 D1 and my 2000 D2. The hinges are now on mine (a slight mishap) so now a red disco with gold rear door hinges

MickG
31st January 2009, 09:27 AM
Hey Mick,

if you need door hinges, the D1 ones works just fine,

I have also found the locking mechanism is the same in a D2 as a D1, this might make it easier for locating parts.

I checked parts between a 98 D1 and my 2000 D2. The hinges are now on mine (a slight mishap) so now a red disco with gold rear door hinges

Thanks Dan, very good to know. Priced some hinges for the D2 - approx $84 each:( Hoping to find some from a wrecker at some point soon.

Would any D1 hinges fit do you think.....LR didn't change this part during the D1 series did they?

Aye, Mick