Water pump relacing 2a.

[Benny_IIA]

Hi everyone, Just a couple of questions please.

1.Do you have to remove the radiator to install a new water pump?

2. Does anyone have any ideas for a roll bar in my shorty, so it can be used to mount lap sash seatbelts also. Is it best to mount direct to the chassis? I was thinking of one single loop with a crossbrace and supports on both sides running towards the rear. All made from steel?

3. Is it worth the trouble of fitting a salisbury locker diff to the rear of my 2a.

Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Ben.

[Blknight.aus]

on the removing the radiator to replace the pump front, No you you dont have to remove the radiator but if your doing work on the water pump (not just replacing a leaking gasket or fitting) IMHO its also a good thing to get the radiator professionally sorted while your doing it. They gunk up and corrode at about the same rate so unless you've managed to do something dumb to the water pump while doing something else to the engine its better to pull the radiator. It also forces you to take your time before filling the cooling system so that your sealants have a time to cure correctly before your tempted to put water at them.

on the roll cage design front
I have a couple, during our storm damage clean up SWMBO found some pics of my old jeep that had a roll cage that was originally intended for a landy and I can get you the scematics for the one ment for the perenties. Fair warning as soon as you add seatbelt mounts you require the cage to be engineered.


the value of a locker in the back depends on what your doing with the vehicle I did well enough on the CCCCC camper capability tryout trip without one and takin a WAG, Fozzy's got stiffer springs than your IIA is likely to have, If your not after the load carrying ability of the thing then dropping a leaf and adding a spacer pad to compensate for its missing width might garner you enough articulation to reduce the need for a locker. That said a TT or selectable locker in the back of a series is an excelent thing to do and with the 8HA in the rear you can pretty much use anything off the shelf that fits a dana 60. Unless youve repowered you barely have enough grunt to break traction in the first place so unless you get stupid with the noise pedal you wont be putting anything at risk.

dont forget that by virtue of the setup of the rear brakes having a leading/trailing setup when going forwards you can pull of a poor mans version of traction control by judicious left foot braking (wait till you try that with a TT in the back).

[UncleHo]

G'day Benny_11A :)

If it is a 2.25litre water pump that you are referring to, then just remove the entire radiator support panel, it's the easier way to do it,after draining the water and disconnecting the hoses, just disconnect the headlight wiring at the connectors under the bonnet shut panel behind the grille,and withdraw through the holes, then undo the bolts that join the radiator panel to the mudguards,then you can remove the radiator panel complete with radiator, it is then a straight forward job to remove/clean/replace the waterpump :D tip:use Permatax (Loctite) No3 non-hardening gasket cement, as it is water/heat proof ;) this you can also smear on the inside of your radiator hoses on re-assembly, as it stops corrosion/leaks between hoses and rad/motor, assembly is reverse of removal, I would suggest that you get the radiator cleaned, (tank off rod clean) as it will then last you another 10 years or so :D


This is also the recommended way to remove the motor ;)


cheers