Where's my ECU?

[westonben]

Sorry for the stupid post, but I can't see the ECU - It's probably staring right at me:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/1098.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/1098.jpg

[81stubee]

No Pics came through! What kind of car???

[McDisco]

If its a D2, its on the front left hand side of the engine bay under the black cover. Its with your jack.

Angus

[justinc]

You have a D1 Ben? It is up under the dash, behind and above the RH kickpanel trim, (Drivers side in Aus)

JC

[westonben]

Strange the pictures don't work.

Here's a link which might work:

Passenger's side (RHS) (http://www.geocities.com/tarantio252/DSCF4031.JPG)


Driver's side (http://www.geocities.com/tarantio252/DSCF4036.JPG)


It's a Series 1 V8 3.9. Gulf spec (LHD)

Just checked. Pictures down due to Yahoo. Should be working later...

[B92 8NW]

Isn't his D1 a LHD Arab model?

[justinc]

Sorry for the stupid post, but I can't see the ECU - It's probably staring right at me:

http://www.geocities.com/tarantio252/DSCF4031.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/tarantio252/DSCF4036.JPG

Ben,

In the first pic, the main wiring loom dangling in front of us, there is a resistor taped up with a blue connector. That is the tune select resistor and is part of the EFI harness. Follow the loom across to the right, the ECU is attached to the side of the upper inner guard above the kickpanel.

JC

[westonben]

Thanks Justin, will take another look tonight.

As a second question, do you notice that there is no fuse in slot 4 in the main bank? It says it's for the lights, but they all seem to work! Any idea on that one?

[justinc]

Thanks Justin, will take another look tonight.

As a second question, do you notice that there is no fuse in slot 4 in the main bank? It says it's for the lights, but they all seem to work! Any idea on that one?

Some models have daytime running lamps as an option, maybe deleted in your market?

JC

[Traco]

Don't 300 series D1s have the ECU in behind the glove box on passenger side (on rhd vehicle)?

[Utemad]

Don't 300 series D1s have the ECU in behind the glove box on passenger side (on rhd vehicle)?

Nope it is as said by others above. ***** of a spot to get to I might add.

Behind the glovebox is an array of other smaller electronic modules such as the power windows module.

[westonben]

Justin, spot on, found it easily. I had seen it before but for some reason didn't think it was it when all I could read were the words "...fuel injection..." - Never mind..

To top it all off and reveal how inept I am, I couldn't get the multiplug off the ECU so I gave up.

[Utemad]

To get the plug off there is a clip on the front edge. Push it while applying slight downward pressure and the plug will virtually fall out. The rear edge of the plug is just slotted into the socket. Getting it back in can be a nasty job though due to the mass of wires in the general area.

[streaky]

Why are you taking it out Ben?....or are you just having a poke about?

[westonben]

I was trying to follow a ECU input checklist I found on another website. It tells which pins to check with your multimeter to test MAF. TPS. and the other sensors.

Was hoping to see if anything was looking suspect to be still causing me problems with my idling.

However, I don't see how I can connect a meter to the pins without back probing the wires on the muliplug.

[westonben]

Pretty sure the problem with idling is now fixed after 6 months!

The final piece in the puzzle was MAF Tuning.

[mike 90 RR]

Pretty sure the problem with idling is now fixed after 6 months!

The final piece in the puzzle was MAF Tuning.

So how did the MAF get checked & tuned?? :)

[westonben]

So how did the MAF get checked & tuned??

I got a MAF off Ebay (despite reading bad stories about them - 40GBP worth a punt), but I took it Bosch (the only place in Qatar that can do it apparently). They seemed confused but reported that it was done - though there was still a little "white smoke".

Drove it for a week or so, but problem seemed to get worse. So I decided to take a meter reading of the MAF myself (so I could always reset it to where Bosch had it) with the idea to try some fine tuning and test driving. Gave a half turn in favour of richening the mix and then took it for 40km test drive - performed perfectly. Tried all the usual manoeveurs that caused it problems before and it was fine. Needs more testing but I feel confident, I think I'll take it to the main dealer to get them to arrange tuning at it's next service

Only problem is the car has now broken down on me again. I've had an intermittent problem (3 breakdowns now) - will post a new thread.

[streaky]

Hi Ben.
If you want to do some checks on the TPS then you can use the following as a guide.
There are three leads coming from the TPS, Brown [yellow] (+5 volt supply), Blue [green] (Ground) and Green [red] (TPS Signal). There is a very near connector where the colours change to Yellow (+5 volt supply), Red/Black (Ground) and Red (TPS Signal).
Colours in square brackets [ ] are for early pre 1994 TPS sensors

Very simple to check for the correct connection, ground voltmeter on back of RHS cylinder head, switch on ignition anod move the throttle pedal. The Supply will remain constant at 5 volts, the Ground will remain constant at zero and the TPS Signal will alter from 0.32-0.34 volts to approaching 5.0 volts.

When you check this connection the 0.32-0.34 at idle is very important, if not correct then adjust by loosening and rotating the TPS sensor.

Also the rise of voltage with throttle movement should be smooth with no blips or drops, these indicate a worn sensor which requires replacement. Badly worn would cause the ECU to think that you were pumping the throttle continuously.

I've used this guide when I was installing my WB02 sensor without messing with the ECU.

Regards.

S.