patrol shocks

[2door grover]

I have been doing some reading about setting up my rover and i think the 4" patrol shocks will do what i want. Will give me more drop and i can set the car up with a little lift so its stable on angles The problem is i can't find a pic of the pin eye adapter so i have a rough idea of what to make.

if any one has a pic please post it up.

Thanks

[mickashay]

hi mate i have 2 inch gq with adaptors in the rear will take a pic in a minute,dont know how 4 inch would go with up travel as my 2 inch is crazy flex,the front use 80series toyota as they are pin to pin same as rover and fit right in
cheers mick

[Slunnie]

You may also consider 12" travel shocks which will be similar.

Here is an adaptor from Rovertym in the US

http://www.rovertym.com/ourprod/shockmount/d1lowershockmtsbig.jpg

[mickashay]

thats the ones saves me getting under the disco to get a pic thanks slunnie

[2door grover]

I was looking at the patrol 4" because they are pretty cheap ($550 a set of procomps) and i want to lift the car 2" and bumpstop space it so it has about 50-80 mm up travel(when loaded up) and has heaps of drop.

that mount is as simple as they come:D I was thinking i was going have to fab up a new mount to bolt to the chassis that would lift up the top shock mount.

Mickashay i would still like to see the flex the 2" shocks give if that's not to much trouble.

[mickashay]

heres a shot and a vid,i have my 2 inch springs tied in now but havent maxed out my shock yet,in the pic i still have about another few inches of shock to go,mines a disco but same setup to rangie
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/1071.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/399.jpg (http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg114/mickadisco/?action=view&current=myflex.flv)

[Slunnie]

If you're retained, then there isn't any benefit in running a shock that is too long, because you lose uptravel.

[Slunnie]

I was looking at the patrol 4" because they are pretty cheap ($550 a set of procomps) and i want to lift the car 2" and bumpstop space it so it has about 50-80 mm up travel(when loaded up) and has heaps of drop.

that mount is as simple as they come:D I was thinking i was going have to fab up a new mount to bolt to the chassis that would lift up the top shock mount.

Mickashay i would still like to see the flex the 2" shocks give if that's not to much trouble.
Don't forget to include the space measurement when specing up your shocks. This is for open and closed lengths so you can also adjust the bumpstop heights to suit your setup.

[Rangier Rover]

Works a treat. I have them in my 2 Door. You will need to move the top mounts up and forward + dislocation cones + Turn T piece on brake pipe up + step A frame ball joint down 2" and axe the Boge load leveling thing to get full use of the shock.

It will flex:twisted:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=12196&stc=1&d=1228906610


Tony

[mike 90 RR]

Works a treat. I have them in my 2 Door. You will need to move the top mounts up and forward + dislocation cones + Turn T piece on brake pipe up + step A frame ball joint down 2" and axe the Boge load leveling thing to get full use of the shock.
It will flex:twisted:
Tony


Luv the flex ... :)

When you cut the Boge level unit ... You still kept that big knuckle joint connection to the diff tho ?? ... (To keep the diff in position) cause that seems to be missing in the photo

When you killed the Boge .. were their any "downsides" to it

Mike

:)

[Rangier Rover]

Luv the flex ... :)

When you cut the Boge level unit ... You still kept that big knuckle joint connection to the diff tho ?? ... (To keep the diff in position) cause that seems to be missing in the photo

When you killed the Boge .. were their any "downsides" to it

Mike

:) I'ts still there. It reminds me when I drive it. Clunk clunk:eek: I must change it soon. When gas axed the boge the car sat 2" higher with out the weight of it;) And leaks less:p. I put 220 lbs 2" lift springs and then used spacers to set it up to ride height I wanted. With the down travel rides awsome over rough country here:cool: I have kept the front end a bit tame Has 80series cruiser long travel shoks and have used RRC rear springs with spacers so still handles well at speed. So I can run down ferral Pigs with it:twisted:
I done this one years ago and was one of a kind around here then. It used to amaze people how well it rode and handled at speed off road + how far it would flex.
Things are a lot more scientific and expensive now days:(
Tony

[mike 90 RR]

with spacers so still handles well at speed. So I can run down ferral Pigs with it:twisted:

Actually ... If you look at the "inside of the wheel arch" .... in your photo ... That explains the "rag remains" :o :p



Things are a lot more scientific and expensive now days:(
Tony

Sometimes I think it's more about the brand name ... rather than the fun of a experiment of mix & match


That boge is to keep the diff level for the tailshaft?? ... So your using the spacers to keep the alignment?

Mike

:)

[Rangier Rover]

Actually ... If you look at the "inside of the wheel arch" .... in your photo ... That explains the "rag remains" :o :p



Sometimes I think it's more about the brand name ... rather than the fun of a experiment of mix & match


That boge is to keep the diff level for the tailshaft?? ... So your using the spacers to keep the alignment?

Mike

:)
Worst thing about mix and match is shocks are damped for car weight, Spring rate and un sprung weight...Low in a rangie:cool:. I found patrol shocks to hard in stock angle so played with more angle= more travel and shock now has to work harder wich similates its original purpose... The heavier patrol. Many argue with this set up as doesn't force the front to flex till rear fully cycled but it seems to work me.
I have retained the A arm and ball joint to locate diff.

This pic shows how front wont flex on a side slope till rear maxed out.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=12199&stc=1&d=1228913219

[2door grover]

Thanks for the quick replys.

Why are people using the 80 cruiser shocks up front, are they longer or do the patrol shocks have the wrong ends?

Mickashay that looks to work pretty well with the 2" shock. How much does the shock have left to compress when on the bumpstop, did you have to make up a spacer for the bumpstop?

Rangier rover, do you have some pics of your top mount? would be less work to just make top mounts and have no bumpstop spacing. Love the flex your car has

I come from driving sierra's so the scientific and expensive ways are out the window with me :)

[Rangier Rover]

Thanks for the quick replys.

Why are people using the 80 cruiser shocks up front, are they longer or do the patrol shocks have the wrong ends?

Mickashay that looks to work pretty well with the 2" shock. How much does the shock have left to compress when on the bumpstop, did you have to make up a spacer for the bumpstop?

Rangier rover, do you have some pics of your top mount? would be less work to just make top mounts and have no bumpstop spacing. Love the flex your car has

I come from driving sierra's so the scientific and expensive ways are out the window with me :)


Some thing like this..
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=12201&stc=1&d=1228946856

Leave lowering bump stops as a last resort if you want big flex.

80 series shocks are a bit longer but have a longer closed stoke so wont work with out lift,longer shock turrets, or bump stops lowered. The front is a lot harder to make flex as springs pop out, drive shaft will hit X member etc

[2door grover]

I have found that in my other cars the lower bumpstop works as a pivot when crossing up the diffs and puts a bit more force on the wheel on the other side. I'll leave it till last and see how the set up goes with out them 1st.

So what do i need to do to get the front working well?

I'm off now to try and put the bl dy vents back in the dash i just swapped and its not going well :mad:

[Rangier Rover]

Have a look at this lot. Some of it not leagle or engineerable in AUS:(

Rovertym Engineering (http://www.rovertym.com/)

[2door grover]

Nice site! With the rear disconnects for the springs, they won't let me run a air bellow will they? I will be running them for when i have a big load in. Has any one run one to go on the out side the spring like a guide/ reducer for the spring to follow?

I like the look of the rear shock mounts as well, that is what i was thinking i would have to fab up in the 1st place to run the long shocks.

[Rangier Rover]

Nice site! With the rear disconnects for the springs, they won't let me run a air bellow will they? I will be running them for when i have a big load in. Has any one run one to go on the out side the spring like a guide/ reducer for the spring to follow?

I like the look of the rear shock mounts as well, that is what i was thinking i would have to fab up in the 1st place to run the long shocks.

I am working on a setup now for my Project 89 to allow bellow or air bags. Going to retain spring to top. Can't say much more as engineers hate it:(

[2door grover]

What about using some thing like a pipe reducer plumbers use to go from 75- 150 mm pipe on the top mount? Would have to be bigger and not plastic but same idea. Spring would be bolted in the bottom mount and as it comes back up the spring goes in the big end and just guides it back the the mount. It would have to be long maybe 50-80 mm.

Whats the dia of the spring? i'll go talk to a mate over the weekend and see what there is about.

[mike 90 RR]

i'll go talk to a mate over the weekend and see what there is about.

Just thought I would let you know

I had to replace the A arm ball joint today ... so off with the boge unit, to get to it

It really does make the diff hang up ... Took it off and the amount of travel is unreal

Problems are tho

Brake lines ... Watch em :eek: even when lifting up the body
Exhaust pipe .... The A arms bash into them
Shockies ... There's more travel for your springs to stretch ... check the length

It's OK for me tho .... as I am putting the Boge unit back on as it was just to renew all the joints