Severe Oil Leaks Front and Back.

[British Bulldog]

Hey guys I have a very severe oil leak at the rear of the engine front of gearbox is there anything that usually dies around this area (photo below), and hard is it to fix?
http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/7803/20081218therangie0128wesc8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

By Brit_Bulldog (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Brit_Bulldog)
Also there is another severe leak from the rear diff it appears to be the pinion seal is this normal and hard is it to fix eg does the diff have to come out? (pic below).
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/5065/20081218therangie0137weyw9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
By Brit_Bulldog (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Brit_Bulldog)

[p38arover]

R e the first pic, it looks like a V8 so is it leaking from the top rear of the engine and running down either side? If so, I'd suspect the rear gasket on the valley.

This gasket which is held down by the shaped metal clamp - or perhaps at the ends of the gasket. Try tightening the centre clamp bolt.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1262.jpg

[willem]

R e the first pic, it looks like a V8 so is it leaking from the top rear of the engine and running down either side? If so, I'd suspect the rear gasket on the valley.

This gasket which is held down by the shaped metal clamp - or perhaps at the ends of the gasket. Try tightening the centre clamp bolt.



G'day Brit and Ron,

If it is leaking from the valley cover I'd be checking for blown head gaskets. These can pressurise the crankcase area causing that seal to leak. I have now had this three times with three different RRCs, and each time it was blown head gaskets. In my experience RRCs tend to do this after about 200 000 kms.

The problem is caused by the third (outer) row of head bolts which stress the head incorrectly. When you do the job just leave them out - if you must put them in just finger tighten them.

Willem

[PhilipA]

Just before you start pulling the diff centre out, check that the axle vent is clear by blowing into it from the axle fitting end. Good Pilates also.
I was a bit annoyed after i had put in a new pinion seal that mine leaked. I noticed that it only leaked for a while on along trip then stopped. Sure enough the vent was blocked. The vent went to the engine bay and was kinked.
Regards Philip A

[POD]

Pretty sure there is no need to remove the diff centre to replace the pinion seal, have done this many times over the years- remove 4 tailshaft flange bolts, have someone apply the brakes whilst you undo the pinion nut with the longest socket handle you can find, when you remove the nut and washer- count the turns off with the nut and put it back on the exact same number of turns. Slide the yoke off the splines (mark it first so it goes back on the same splines), pry out the seal, install the new one, reassemble.
I can't recall exactly what method of pinion depth/bearing preload is used on these diffs- i.e. whether they use a collapsible spacer- but counting the turns of the nut will ensure you don't stuff it up.

[British Bulldog]

Thanks to all the guys that replied. I have completly degreased the underside of the car. Now I just have to find where these leaks are eaxcatlly coming from. The on at the rear of the enginge is spitting water out the back against the firewall. The thermostat housing is leaking water, and now the rotten power steering box has started leaking. Is there anything in these cars that doen't leak? I am starting to feel like a ford owner.
One other question I have the elderbrock mainfold and holley carb on this thing but the holley is leaking more fuel than it uses. What I wanted to know was if I bought one of these:
ROCHESTER QUADRAJET CARBY reconditioned - eBay V8, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 22-Dec-08 16:13:18 AEDST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ROCHESTER-QUADRAJET-CARBY-reconditioned_W0QQitemZ350139502361QQcmdZViewItemQ QptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item350139502361&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318)
Will it bolt straight on and what will I have to do to make it run.

Also guys how do you deal with the snide remarks from TOYota drivers. I used to own a Subaru L series (little 4WD) and coped a lot of this crap now I have upgraded and now I am coping it more regarding the realiablity issues and not being tough enough. What do you do just out drive them on the tracks or take the for a ride in the floating on air chariot.

One last question which would be better a spring lift or body lift or both? I want a decent off road truck nothing extreme but I don't want it over the top I am contemplating about putting on 33X9R15 Silverstones but don't wnat to destroy my low range and break axles. Any suggestions?

Sorry about all the questions but I am so new to these beasts. I learnt to drive in a series IIa and my farther now owns a P76 but no Rangies. I always do all the work myself so I learn about what I am driving. Thanks again for all the info guys
Cheers kris

[PhilipA]

No they are shims so no need for exact tightness, although I do not know how you can be exact at 200ft Lbs.
A rattle gun is magic on the diff nose bolt to loosen it but tighten finally with a torque wrench and LOTS of muscle.
Regards Philip A

[2door grover]

what size holly do you have? the rochester is a 705 cfm vac secondery carby but the have very small pri so might work well. Also the holy has a different bolt patten to the manifold to the rochester. i have a spacer to make them fit from when i played with 308's pm me if you want.

They are great carbys when tuned right. It would prob need some smaller primary jets as its set up for a 5ltr engine std. I don't know how it would go with big angles but if i can find a manifold i'll get rid of the su's on mine and use a rochester

[Waxenwane]

Hi, Re your pinion seal. Instead of counting the turns it takes to get the nut off, simply mark the nut in reference to the flange and the pinion shaft. The pinion is of the shouldered variety and preload is adjusted by shimming the bearings. Even though it is a shouldered pinion it is still wise to mark it.
For tightening make a plate that will bolt onto the flange and weld a bar on it.

Re your engine oil leaks. Check that your breathers are not blocked, something that Stirling and I played with on mine when it started hemorrhaging was to connect one rocker cover to manifold vacuum via pcv or something to restrict it. The other rocker cover to a filter, works a treat and voila no more leaks. You do have to play with it a little to control engine idle.
Is your engine on Gas? Thought I'd ask as it's a major cause of Holley leaks. Throw a kit at they're only $40.
And you've got to learn to love the stick from the Tojo drivers...........especially when you drive straight through what they're stuck on :twisted:

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Take the plate off the back of the bellhousing too and see how much oil is in there. Anything inside will be rear main seal.
It may well also be that the oil around your diff is drips from the engine flying back, yes this does happen.

Changing the pinion seal is easy apart from the pinion nut as previously stated. Helps if you have a hoist to work under. Once the flange is off, you can just prise out the old one and put a new seal in. Check for any grooves in the flange as this can make even a new seal leak. If in doubt, just put a new flange in or have it speedi-sleeved to the original OD.

Cheers

Andrew

[LoveMyV8County]

Check your rocker cover gaskets. If they are leaking at the rear you will get a surprising amount of oil running down the back of the motor when going uphill.

Also check the oil around the rear diff to make sure it is not engine oil from the other leak being blown back as suggested. Do a sniff test - engine oil and gearbox oil smell very different.

Chris

[Bearman]

oil leaks are good rust preventative. With regards to Tojo drivers, you will get your own back when you drive around them in the scrub.