edelbrock manifold conversion

[coops71]

I'm in the process of removing my factory manifold from my 1988 V8 110. It was converted by the previous owner to allow for a 2 barrel carby. Currently it has a 350 holly. I am going to replace it with a edelbrock performer manifold and a 500 edelbrock 4 barrel. The idea is to eventually replace the 3.5 with my 3.9 and do some head work. My question is: Can I use the original thermostat housing and the pipe connector on the back of the original manifold. I can't quite get my head around the RPI nescessity of having the new housing. If someone can shine some light on this matter I would really appreciate it.

[Bush65]

I put those on my rangie when it had a V8.

It was the worst thing I ever did.

Those carbies are rubbish off road. They flood and are very difficult to re-start on moderate hills.

I took it off and replaced with a Quadrajet of a Holden V8 - a much better carbie off road.

Personally I would go back to the stock carbies, you won't get better off road - they will nearly run upside down, and will still keep going down to 300 rpm (which can help you keep going in some situations without stalling and getting stuck).

[Bigbjorn]

Quadrajets are very suitable for off-road use. They have a small centrally mounted float chamber which permits operation at steep angles. Rochester recommended a modification for this usage by inserting a plastic packing piece in the float chamber. Many later Quadrajets already have this in place. Quadrajets were widely and successfully used in off-road racing in the USA.

[Traco]

Edelbrock do a kit for offroad use, simple to fit or you can use their marine version of their carb. When I fitted the 1404 and Performer to my 4.6 I used a thermo housing off a P6B Rover which has the necessary extra by-pass outlet pipe needed to return coolant to the sytem before the thermostat opens - cost $5 from the wreckers.

[locorr]

I use a 350 holley on my classic but it's backwards so it floods downhill, not really a problem.

[British Bulldog]

Hey Guys,
I thought if you wanted to put the quadrajet off a Holden on you had to modify the carbie as it was made for a 5 litre engine not a 3.5 is this correct or not.
Cheers Kris

[Bigbjorn]

Hey Guys,
I thought if you wanted to put the quadrajet off a Holden on you had to modify the carbie as it was made for a 5 litre engine not a 3.5 is this correct or not.
Cheers Kris

They were used on Holden 253's as well. I have installed them on Hemi 265's, Holden 186 using only two throats, Rover 3.5 V8's, and Leyland Terrier trucks without changing jets. They usually start up and run like good little watches after minor fiddling with the idle screws. You may have to adjust the opening of the secondary throats if they are coming in too early and a small engine is bogging down with too much venturi.

[NOFUSS]

I'm in the process of removing my factory manifold from my 1988 V8 110. It was converted by the previous owner to allow for a 2 barrel carby. Currently it has a 350 holly. I am going to replace it with a edelbrock performer manifold and a 500 edelbrock 4 barrel. The idea is to eventually replace the 3.5 with my 3.9 and do some head work. My question is: Can I use the original thermostat housing and the pipe connector on the back of the original manifold. I can't quite get my head around the RPI nescessity of having the new housing. If someone can shine some light on this matter I would really appreciate it.

I've got elbrock duel plane manifold and a 470 doubble pumper on a 3.2. good little goer never had a problem with fuel starving or flooding and its just not a shopping trolly no sand dunes in car parks :D as for thermostat housing I use the original and use 10mm flat ally plate to make an adapter this was the cheapest way out cost about $10 and a bit of time drilling and measurring up.
Dan;)

[coops71]

I've got elbrock duel plane manifold and a 470 doubble pumper on a 3.2. good little goer never had a problem with fuel starving or flooding and its just not a shopping trolly no sand dunes in car parks :D as for thermostat housing I use the original and use 10mm flat ally plate to make an adapter this was the cheapest way out cost about $10 and a bit of time drilling and measurring up.
Dan;)

Did you drill and tap a hole for the bypass? What did you use for the bypass pipe?

[NOFUSS]

drill and tapped a hole used a brass fitting for pipe adapter used 762loctight ithink that was the number liquid teflon type stuff on the thread works better than thread tape;)

[coops71]

drill and tapped a hole used a brass fitting for pipe adapter used 762loctight ithink that was the number liquid teflon type stuff on the thread works better than thread tape;)

I might give this a go. Where did you source the plate and brass outlet from? Bunnings?

[amtravic1]

Dont know what the set up is on a 110 but on my ex efi Rangie I did away with that hose altogether and just drilled a small 1/8th hole in the thermostat or remove the little brass flapper thing in the thermostat and make sure that is at the top. All this does is stop air locks in the system. Cheap and easy fix for the problem. It makes no difference to the operation of the thermostat as far as can tell.



Ian

[coops71]

I've now installed the edelbrock manifold and carby. I made an adapter plate which allows for a coolant bypass to be tapped later on but at this stage I have drilled a 1/8 inch hole in the thermostat. I think the whole bypass is a bit of a con really. If you have a newer car with a constant flow of coolant through the heater then you have constant flow through the manifold. Anyway the 3.5 now goes like stink particularly up top where the old setup would start to suffocate. I'll let you know how it goes offroad before the lpg is installed.

[amtravic1]

I tried mine without the hole in the thermostat and there was airlocks that caused overheating before the thermostat opened. It needs the by-pass to stop the airlocks it would seem.

Ian

[Lotz-A-Landies]

<snip>... I used a thermo housing off a P6B Rover which has the necessary extra by-pass outlet pipe needed to return coolant to the sytem before the thermostat opens - cost $5 from the wreckers.Where do you find wreckers of P6B Rovers these days? I thought they had all gone! :( :(

Diana

[coops71]

I tried mine without the hole in the thermostat and there was airlocks that caused overheating before the thermostat opened. It needs the by-pass to stop the airlocks it would seem.

Ian

Quick examination of the edelbrock manifold shows that the bypass hole and the thermostat hole are both fed by the same chamber. Every coolant orifice is interconnected as I found by pouring water through each port when I first recieved it. The bypass is lower than the thermostat so its a bit strange to expect air to vent at a low point. I reckon the hole in the thermostat would be the biggest help for the airlock. After taking the old manifold off I realised the previous owner had blocked a hose and had essentially no flow through the stock manifold. Oh - and the hose on the stock manifold that is routed underneath can still go underneath despite what I have read.