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Panda
24th December 2008, 08:16 PM
As the title suggests, I've got problems with the cold start light - it stays on all the time. Yea, I know, I'm not the brightest spark when it comes to mechanics, but should I worry about it or just put it down to a dodgey connection. Thanks :)

fraser130
24th December 2008, 09:01 PM
From memory Panda (and it's been many years) somewhere on the head or inlet manifold there is a little round thing with 1 (might be 2) wires coming from it, it's held on with a "rounded triangle" with 3 small bolts, when the engine is warm, unplug the wire, if the light goes out, the round thing is faulty, if the light stays on, I guess the wiring has issues.

I'm sure there are better qualified people out there who will know if I'm correct or not, as I'm going from memory, and the late 80's were good for me:D thats when I last owned a Series LR

I don't think the light serves any other purpose than to remind you to push the choke in.

Hmmm....all very hazey.....

Was there a switch on the choke as well , and the light would come on if the choke was out and the engine warm?

Perhaps your choke is not going all the way in?

Sorry, I really haven't helped, have I?



Must be the time of year!!:twobeers:

Panda
24th December 2008, 09:09 PM
Actually you have helped me, thanks. The choke's going all the way in, however, saying that, geez it seems to use a lot of fuel of late. I've got to drive to Bondi tomorrow for family Christmas, so I won't get a chance to look at the wiring until Boxing Day. But I'll definitely check it out.


From memory Panda (and it's been many years) somewhere on the head or inlet manifold there is a little round thing with 1 (might be 2) wires coming from it, it's held on with a "rounded triangle" with 3 small bolts, when the engine is warm, unplug the wire, if the light goes out, the round thing is faulty, if the light stays on, I guess the wiring has issues.

I'm sure there are better qualified people out there who will know if I'm correct or not, as I'm going from memory, and the late 80's were good for me:D thats when I last owned a Series LR

I don't think the light serves any other purpose than to remind you to push the choke in.

Hmmm....all very hazey.....

Was there a switch on the choke as well , and the light would come on if the choke was out and the engine warm?

Perhaps your choke is not going all the way in?

Sorry, I really haven't helped, have I?



Must be the time of year!!:twobeers:

JohnE
29th December 2008, 06:00 AM
A ser 3 GS 2.6 is what your talking about, isn't it.
The Q would have been more suitable down the bottom where the bulk of the GS's live.

Unless yours is a variant that is exceptional, the millitary motors do not have the warning switch in the head, it is blocked off with a plate, the cold start switch is the one attached to the choke cable. just near the dash usually above the clutch master cylinder, its a small back box, held on with a U clamp and has two wires sticking out of it,
the switch has a small protrusion/pin that is moved by the cable,which in turn moves a metal connector up and down, the easiest way to check if is to disconnect the wires and see if the light goes out.

It is easy to remove to check and see if the pin moves in and out.


There is a FFR ser3 wiring schematic in the downloads section, it is also for the GS as extra ffr wiring is shown.
It is easy to follow and the colour codes are easy to work out,




john

Panda
30th December 2008, 06:23 PM
Yes it is a SIII GS 2.6 - thanks for that John. I haven't worked it out yet, but the choke's definitely all the way in, so wasn't too worried. I'll have another look tomorrow & see if I can figure it out. :(



A ser 3 GS 2.6 is what your talking about, isn't it.
The Q would have been more suitable down the bottom where the bulk of the GS's live.

Unless yours is a variant that is exceptional, the millitary motors do not have the warning switch in the head, it is blocked off with a plate, the cold start switch is the one attached to the choke cable. just near the dash usually above the clutch master cylinder, its a small back box, held on with a U clamp and has two wires sticking out of it,
the switch has a small protrusion/pin that is moved by the cable,which in turn moves a metal connector up and down, the easiest way to check if is to disconnect the wires and see if the light goes out.

It is easy to remove to check and see if the pin moves in and out.


There is a FFR ser3 wiring schematic in the downloads section, it is also for the GS as extra ffr wiring is shown.
It is easy to follow and the colour codes are easy to work out,




john