Filler plug for transfer case??

[R.J.]

Gday.
I want to change the Oil in the Transfer case on my 87 RR.
Could somebody please tell me which nut is the filler plug? Is it the square plug with "1.222 Ratio 4WD" sticker, or the one above it with a split pin looking setup????

Thanks for any help.

Reuben.12465

[JDNSW]

I think it is 1 - but I am not an expert on this box, so wait until someone who knows what they are talking about replies.

John

[feral]

I'm with John on this one....I'm not an expert on this box either :p

But to me it has to be 1.

The damage to the plug suggests it has been worked on numerous times and the fact that there is yellow paint is an indicator for many machinery applications to add, check or fill oil, grease or whatever. Another indictor is that my D2 has the same type of filler plug. Just use a half inch breaker bar and it will come straight out.

Plug 2 does not have any markings at all as far as I can tell and it is very rare for a standard fill plug to be split pinned. As far as I know race cars usually have their drain plugs wired to stop them from dropping out, but as for fill plugs I'm not sure.


EDIT: Some smart bunny will now come along and say the transfer boxes are the same in a 87 RR and a D2:Thump:


:cool:

[p38arover]

But to me it has to be 1.

<snip>


EDIT: Some smart bunny will now come along and say the transfer boxes are the same in a 87 RR and a D2:Thump:


:cool:

Yep

[Bush65]

It is the large plug near the sticker with the high range ratio.

The other nut is for setting the pre-load of the taper roller bearings in the intermediate gears.

[R.J.]

Thank you for the help.

Yeah, Its obvious that someone has had a fun time trying to get it off previously.

Im going straight to get some oil, because low ratio was making some very strange noises yesterday on Goolwa Beach!

I hope everyone is enjoying their christmas break!

[p38arover]

Remove it with a 1/2" square socket bar.

Make sure you can remove it before you drain the oil.

[R.J.]

I searched 3 auto stores for a 1/2" socket bar! None to be found.
It was stuck on there good and the previous owner had started to chew it up (see photo). I ended up stopping at a mechanics and he go it off after a few minutes and alot of effort!

Thanks guys.

[p38arover]

You don't have a standard 1/2" drive socket set?

[lro11]

This does look similar to a D2 box as I have just had mine serviced at Austral Land Rover and they forgot to put it back in I drove for two weeks before I found their mistake.

[scarry]

This does look similar to a D2 box as I have just had mine serviced at Austral Land Rover and they forgot to put it back in I drove for two weeks before I found their mistake.

Dealers again:mad:why am i not surprised......

I will say no more,now you know the reason i will never go to them again:mad:

[Pierre]

Hope they didn't forget the oil as well.

Incompetent dills always fail to check their work!

Pete

[R.J.]

You don't have a standard 1/2" drive socket set?

I have the complete set. I do not have the bar. If you mean just use the wrench without a socket (which fits) I didnt want to do that because of the previous damage done to the plug.

All sorted now. And I even found out that these gearboxes have a "locker" or something. I have Hi and Low on the left side, and lockers on right side of gear shift. Does this sound right? Which is better for driving on really soft sand?

[BigJon]

Im going straight to get some oil, because low ratio was making some very strange noises yesterday on Goolwa Beach!



I was on Goolwa Beach yesterday too. Did you see me there? Green Classsic Rangie and my brother had a silver 100 Series Landcruiser there.

[R.J.]

I was on Goolwa Beach yesterday too. Did you see me there? Green Classsic Rangie and my brother had a silver 100 Series Landcruiser there.

Your brother wasnt the one driving through the surf was he.....

[BigJon]

No, for some reason he actually likes his Landcruiser!

I did see a Defender 110 driving through the water. If it is the same one I saw parked later it had Qld plates.

[p38arover]

I have the complete set. I do not have the bar. If you mean just use the wrench without a socket (which fits) I didnt want to do that because of the previous damage done to the plug.

Hang on. Is something jammed into the plug? The square end of a 1/2" socket set bar (or the extension bar) should fit directly into the square hole in the plug.

No other tool is required.

[R.J.]

Hang on. Is something jammed into the plug? The square end of a 1/2" socket set bar (or the extension bar) should fit directly into the square hole in the plug.

No other tool is required.

I see. I didnt want to use that because I thought there was a special tool to use. The plug was already chewed up. Thanks, I know now.

BigJon, I dont remember seeing you. Was a good day since I got to pull a mates Pajero out of a bog! :p

[Leo109]

This does look similar to a D2 box as I have just had mine serviced at Austral Land Rover and they forgot to put it back in I drove for two weeks before I found their mistake.

Need anything else be said about that particular emporium of vehicular service (to use the term 'service' very loosely)?
Ian

[Leo109]

I have the complete set. I do not have the bar. If you mean just use the wrench without a socket (which fits) I didnt want to do that because of the previous damage done to the plug.


All sorted now. And I even found out that these gearboxes have a "locker" or something. I have Hi and Low on the left side, and lockers on right side of gear shift. Does this sound right? Which is better for driving on really soft sand?

Hi RJ,

If the filler plug is looking a bit butchered in the 1/2" square hole, you can replace it with a 1/2" BSPT (British Standard Pipe - Tapered) plug from just about any plumbing or decent hardware place. These plugs (like the diff filler and drain plugs) are 1/2" BSP tapered thread plugs. This means they tighten-up and seal on the threads, not against a washer or gasket under the head of the plug (because, as you will have noticed, these don't even have a head...) Because of this, they do NOT need to be tightened up too tightly. Screw them in finger-tight then about another full turn or so with a 1/2" drive ratchet handle or small breaker bar, until it feels 'firm'. A tapered thread will not come up 'hard' like a headed bolt and doesn't need to be that tight.

As for your "lockers", the knob to the right of the gear lever operates the transfer case centre differential lock (CDL). You can engage it in either high or low range and you should engage (lock) it on soft surfaces (sand, mud, gravel). But never leave it engaged on sealed roads. A dash light should come on when the diff lock is engaged? (If not, get the light fixed or one day you'll drive a long way on a sealed road with the CDL engaged and destroy it = $$$)

With the CDL engaged on a full-time 4WD like your Rangie, it behaves like a part-time 4WD when 4WD is selected. That is, both front and rear axles driving, but you'll lose drive if both one front and one rear wheel lose traction at the same time. For example, if the opposite F & R wheels leave the ground crossing a deep gully on an angle.

With CDL disengaged on soft surfaces, you really only have a "one wheel drive" - if any one wheel, front or rear, losses traction, you will come to a halt. Very embarrassing if a ordinary Falcon ute passes you stranded up a sandy hill...

The CDL is a completely separate item to the aftermarket diff-locks that many choose to fit to the rear or front differential (or both) to give more than standard traction in really tough conditions.

Hope this helps,
Ian

[R.J.]

Thanks Leo109, thats very helpful info.

[Bush65]

Further to what Ian said, you really should have the centre diff locked on loose surfaces and most definitely where you might get wheel spin.

Spinning wheels with the centre diff un-locked can destroy the diff - they are only intended to compensate for the small differential action that occurs on corners onroad. They are not very robust and the thrust washers and pins flog out when the wheels spin too much, which leads to pinion failure.