Brake question

[discopete]

Hi all,
just tried to bleed the brakes on a RRC without success. After a bit of research I thought I might try and reverse bleed them but I also read that if the MC has run dry it could be damaged, and it is possible this one has run dry. So.. the question is should I test the MC first and if so how, or try and reverse bleed first. Any other suggestions welcome.

Pete

[DRanged]

if the MC is ok try this for earlier RRC

r/h front caliper top, middle, bottom nipple.

l/h front caliper top, middle, bottom nipple

r/h rear caliper 1 nipple

l/h rear caliper 1 nipple.

top up MC

l/h rear 1 nipple

r/h rear 1 nipple

l/h front bottom, middle, top

r/h front bottom, middle, top.

Thats how JRA used to do it.

Justin

[350RRC]

Hi,

Which year? Lockheed M/C?

Is only the front reservoir draining when bleeding the front calipers (Primary and secondary circuits) after the rears by the book?

DL

[discopete]

Hi,

Which year? Lockheed M/C?

Is only the front reservoir draining when bleeding the front calipers (Primary and secondary circuits) after the rears by the book?

DL

It's a 78 model, not sure which MC.
I started with the passenger rear with no joy. I then had to change the front passenger hub assembley so I gravity bleed this caliper with success. The main, large reservoir drained when I did this but the smaller one too the front of the car stayed full.

Pete

[350RRC]

Doesn't sound like the prob I was thinking of. You could try pulling the M/C apart and see if the bore is pitted. If not pitted you could put a seal kit in it.

Seem to recall that Betta brakes (or similar name) in Melby do reco's pretty cheap. Hoses and new M/C's are cheap from the UK.

good luck, DL

[rovercare]

The answer is a vacuum bleeder, I am very thankful I bought one and so are a few of my mates that have since:D

[rovercare]

One of deez!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads12/brake+bleeder1204180191.jpg

Has saved me ALOT of pain and anquish since:cool:

[loanrangie]

In place of a vacum bleeder, a 1 m length of clear tube and a coffee jar with lid half full of fluid works a treat. Attach tube to nipple and place end of tube in jar thru hole in lid, place jar higher than the nipple and open the nipple and just slowly pump untill bubbles stop exiting the hose - this is a 1 man process and should take no more than 30 mins if the mc is not leaking.

[discopete]

OK folks, I think the problem is a blocked line on the passenger rear side. This is the one I started at according to the haynes manual and would not bleed. I then tried DeRangeds' method which starts at the opposite wheel to the haynes method and all 3 of the other bleeded OK except for the last but the brake pedal was solid. So looks like MC good. I'll put another line on this afternoon and should be motoring again. Thanks everyone.

Cheers,
Pete