defender gearbox

[shad]

i have a 1995 110 defender which seems to have spat out 4th gear, have been told will cost enywhere from 1500 to 3000 to be fixed,:o just wondering if anyone has ever fitted a auto gearbox, my wife only drives autos so when ever we go travelling i drive which is good most of the time,by the way i can still drive the 5 speed in 123-5 forth gear just keeps on dropping out as i am on very tight budget any info would be greatly appreciated cheers shad (dave):D

[weeds]

its been done by a few members, if my speed gives up thats what i will be doing........not sure that it would be a cheap fix

[George130]

It can be done. The cost is in all the extras. You need the selector and so on to do it. Rear drive shaft might need to be changed also.

[INDABA]

I`ll bet you were still using the ATF L/R specify??
ANY,ANY manual rover box----use a 75w-80 gbox oil
Penrite comes to mind

[slug_burner]

is this a selector issue?

[Dougal]

I`ll bet you were still using the ATF L/R specify??
ANY,ANY manual rover box----use a 75w-80 gbox oil
Penrite comes to mind

I don't have a landrover gearbox, but there are posts here relating thicker oil leading to gearbox failure. Unlike many gearboxes, the LT77's and R380's have internal oil pumps.

Someone else can confirm or deny.

[rick130]

I don't have a landrover gearbox, but there are posts here relating thicker oil leading to gearbox failure. Unlike many gearboxes, the LT77's and R380's have internal oil pumps.

Someone else can confirm or deny.

Deny. :p

The internal pump uses steel gears, unlike the earlier boxes, and Land Rovers specification has been a 75W-80 GL4 since '97 or so, and is the sole factory recommendation for all R380's these days.
Apparently no gearbox reconditioner in Australia will warrant a re-build unless a 75w-80 at least is used. ie, no ATF's.

Now, as to which brew is preferred........it seems that they are pretty idiosyncratic and some prefer one brand over another, but most people settle on Castrol Syntrans, which is a 75w-85 pao/ester synthetic (around 11.9cSt@100*C) but a lot of workshops use Valvoline Duragear 75W-85 with success too, Redline MTL and brews of MTL/MT90, Castrol VMX-80 and VMX-85, etc, etc.
FWIW I've been trialling/using a 14.5 cSt oil for the last twelve months and there's been less 'whiskers' on the drain magnet than when using Syntrans or MTL, but it also has a much, much more robust additive package while still meeting an SAE/API 1b copper corrosion test.

http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/MTF.htm

[Dougal]

Deny. :p

Fine, be like that.:D

[abaddonxi]

<snip>
FWIW I've been trialling/using a 14.5 cSt oil for the last twelve months and there's been less 'whiskers' on the drain magnet than when using Syntrans or MTL, but it also has a much, much more robust additive package while still meeting an SAE/API 1b copper corrosion test.

Low Viscosity Manual Transmission Lubricants (http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/MTF.htm)


Do tell. Another chapter in Rick's oil story.

Hard keeping up with the Joneses.:D

[shad]

the machanic i took it to didnt really have a look :confused:but if it keeps jumpig out of forth gear but runs all right in the other gears would you have it fixed or get a reco one i have no idea when it comes to playing with gearboxes :eek::eek: cheers shad

[shad]

thanks for all the info:cool:

[incisor]

Do tell. Another chapter in Rick's oil story.

Hard keeping up with the Joneses.:D

X2 ;)

[PAT303]

If it's only jumping out off fourth I would be looking at the selector first.When gearbox's start doing that it's because of excessive endfloat but because it's only one gear I would look at the selector.For the doubters I ran ATF for 400,000k's before changing to oil and my gearbox has never been touched. Pat

[rick130]

Do tell. Another chapter in Rick's oil story.

Hard keeping up with the Joneses.:D

Can't really recommend it, it's totally out of spec compared to something like MTF94, at least to the casual observer.
About to try another one soon that would be considered even more radical.
I should have been taking samples and getting them analysed like the engine oils.

Hopefully I'll be using a stabilised HOBS based (High Oleic Base Stock) vegie/synthetic engine oil before autumn too (if everything goes to plan).

The Defender is going green !

[rick130]

If it's only jumping out off fourth I would be looking at the selector first.When gearbox's start doing that it's because of excessive endfloat but because it's only one gear I would look at the selector.For the doubters I ran ATF for 400,000k's before changing to oil and my gearbox has never been touched. Pat

ditto.
A weak/broken detent spring will do this too.

I won't comment on Pat's use of ATF :p

[VladTepes]

I think it is about $6K or so to auto a 300Tdi Defender.

[Blknight.aus]

if its only 4th as mentioned check the selectors and detents as well as the selector housing for a build up of crap and corruption.

if its not that and its only 4th and the box is not making any other noises more than likely its either gunk behind the baulk ring thats not letting 4th engage complete or a problem with the synchro unit itself.

price up the parts for the syncro bits for 3/4 then compare that to the cost of a swap out reco or second hand box.

there is just enough scope for it to be a loose selectors on the rods but I wouldnt bet the farm.

[PAT303]

ditto.
A weak/broken detent spring will do this too.

I won't comment on Pat's use of ATF :p

As tojo owners tell me,I must have got a good one.I will say the MTL is working really well,it's been getting over 40 here and the shift quality is still very good.Your teaching us well Grasshopper!!! Pat

[shad]

cheers and thanks again am pulling it apart so i can check it all out am hopeing for heaps of dirt etc gearbox has done onlyabout 200k:cool:

[PAT303]

Let us know how you go for future reference. Pat

[coops71]

Ive got an r380 box from my 95 Disco if you are interested. Still in the car at the moment so I can't examine the splines but no crazy backlash apparent and it has been rebuilt at least once in it's 201,000km life.

[shad]

thanks for the offer am in tassie not sure where your at!! being at the top end :D:D of Aus can have its disadvantages have tryed the second hand british place down here and they keep saying they will get back to me :(5 phone calls so far :eek:may have to try melbourne and get one shipped:eek:

[shad]

maybe a stupid question would i still be able to drive it around in 1-2-3and 5 witout causing extra damage or to risky would anything be floating around in the box:o:confused:

[Blknight.aus]

thats the beauty of a landrover, broken bits and all it will keep going....

ID avoid driving excessively but it will keep on going for emergancy work. IE getting it to the repair place.

if it starts making new noises then its time to stop and think, you never know it might just do what fozzy did and sort itself out.

[PAT303]

I would fix the problem.It won't have anything floating around,you may be changing a $3500 gearbox to fix a $2 spring. Pat

[cewilson]

thanks for the offer am in tassie not sure where your at!! being at the top end :D:D of Aus can have its disadvantages have tryed the second hand british place down here and they keep saying they will get back to me :(5 phone calls so far :eek:may have to try melbourne and get one shipped:eek:


Have a chat to Justin Cooper - he might know of one sitting around somewhere.

Cheers
Chris

[coops71]

Have a chat to Justin Cooper - he might know of one sitting around somewhere.

Cheers
Chris

Im in Albany WA. Freight would be around $200. Im after $600 for the R380 once I have removed it.

[coops71]

woops quoted wrong comment.

[shad]

cheers dave