hub seals

[dirtdawg]

its now the 4th time in 6 months that the right hand rear has crapped itself and the last time it went the workshop replaced it but now im doing it again is there a better hub seal then the oem one? im getting sick of doing seals and bearings :mad:

[MacFamily]

its now the 4th time in 6 months that the right hand rear has crapped itself and the last time it went the workshop replaced it but now im doing it again is there a better hub seal then the oem one? im getting sick of doing seals and bearings :mad:


Gday dirtdawg
When I converted the fronts to oil and Maxi Flanges I used the oil seal in the hubs Part Number RTC3511, I think this can also be used in the rear.

Do you have oil lubed bearings on the rear?

[uninformed]

4th time in 6 months:eek:

arent alarm bells ringing like its not the hub seal failing but something else causing it to. whether it be poor installation of the seat being stuffed etc etc

hope u find a solution
Serg

[abaddonxi]

Could try putting the seal in a bit deeper or less deep to find a better seal face. Otherwise I think the standards are speedisleeve or replace hub or stub axle.

Simon

[weeds]

mate i'm having the same problem with my right rear as well, i have checked the breather, air line for the locker , fitted a new stubb and its leaking again:mad:

[Dougal]

How deep are you setting the seal?
I have to seat mine until the most protruding lip is flush with the outer lip of the hub. Any further out and I found they fail quickly.

[weeds]

How deep are you setting the seal?
I have to seat mine until the most protruding lip is flush with the outer lip of the hub. Any further out and I found they fail quickly.

i have tried flush, a couple of mm under, is bottoming it out too far in?

[Dougal]

i have tried flush, a couple of mm under, is bottoming it out too far in?

It will depend on your wheel bearings. I expect them all to sit in a similar amount, but being taper rollers, there will be a bit of variation.

Here's a section view of my current rear hubs (circa 97 disco), I haven't drawn the radius where the stub axle seal face meets the flange, but it still gives you a good idea of just how things sit when assembled.
Seal fitment and clearance in these seems identical to the 85 RRC hubs I had prior (same vehicle, changed the axles and hubs last year).

[rick130]

Ditto what Dougal said, although I usually just seat it 4mm down the bore using the RTC3511 seal using the depth gauge of my verniers.

My oldest ones would be well over 5 years old now and probably 150,000km and are fine.
The only time I've had one fail was a dodgy seal face and the diff breather blocked. As Simon said, a Speedi Sleeve fixed it.

[dirtdawg]

the stub axel is not very old like less than 2000ks i just seem to have a re-occuring problem with the rhr i did hear that you can use a jeep hub seal not sure wich one though but i know shane from wombat off road uses them in his disco comp truck

[PhilipA]

Bent axle?.
Regards Philip A

[Xtreme]

I used to have trouble with these seals leaking when I installed them flush or 'x' mm down. i think the problem may have been that it's almost impossible to get them dead 'square' when installing like this.

However, for the past 4 or 5 years I have used the drive flange (which is exactly the right diameter to become a 'special tool') to drive them right down to the step in the hub and have not had one leak since doing it this way.

Also, on advice from a bearing expert, I don't give the bearings any end float - just nip them up and leave them at that. No problems on mine and numerous friends cars that I've converted to oil fed wheel bearings.

Of course, I use the RTC3511 double lipped seal and ensure that the surface that the seal runs on is in good nick.

Roger

[Dougal]

Also, on advice from a bearing expert, I don't give the bearings any end float - just nip them up and leave them at that. No problems on mine and numerous friends cars that I've converted to oil fed wheel bearings.

I've always wondered about this.

What other opinions do we have about bearing preload?

[rick130]

I've always wondered about this.

What other opinions do we have about bearing preload?

I always give taper roller bearings a small amount of pre-load and have done for twenty odd years.

Land Rover even called for it on Tdi's.
After adjusting hub nut to 50Nm then backing off 90* re-tighten to 10Nm.

[Xtreme]

I always give taper roller bearings a small amount of pre-load and have done for twenty odd years.

Land Rover even called for it on Tdi's.
After adjusting hub nut to 50Nm then backing off 90* re-tighten to 10Nm.

Exactly - I knew someone would come up with the right figures. Thanks.

[weeds]

I used to have trouble with these seals leaking when I installed them flush or 'x' mm down. i think the problem may have been that it's almost impossible to get them dead 'square' when installing like this.

However, for the past 4 or 5 years I have used the drive flange (which is exactly the right diameter to become a 'special tool') to drive them right down to the step in the hub and have not had one leak since doing it this way.

Also, on advice from a bearing expert, I don't give the bearings any end float - just nip them up and leave them at that. No problems on mine and numerous friends cars that I've converted to oil fed wheel bearings.

Of course, I use the RTC3511 double lipped seal and ensure that the surface that the seal runs on is in good nick.

Roger

i never have end float either....well not that i can feel, i must be doing something right as the other three wheel have no problems

[mcrover]

I havnt had any leaks, I would say that the bearings are getting bedded in and havnt been preloaded properly when fitted so it gets a bit of angular movement which will cause a leak....in a short period of time.

I also use the twin lip seal RTC3511 (I think, thats off the top of my head) and knock it in with the drive flange as per the wheel bearing tutorial I did a while back (I think it's in there).

[mcrover]

Bent axle?.
Regards Philip A

Thats interesting......how will that effect a fully floating hub?

[haydofly]

Thats interesting......how will that effect a fully floating hub?

Maybe he meant stub axle?

[dirtdawg]

i know the stub axle is good as is the hub itself, on a side note i pick up new bearings this arvo from a bearing place as the local parts place didnt have any and im a bit far from rover craft atm and i must sat they look a lot stronger than the last lot they have the same part number but are made here not in japan and they look a hell of a lot stronger

[PhilipA]

No I meant a bent axle housing from jumps.
I remember (vaguely) a problem years ago of a non sealing seal and this was the ultimate answer.
I do not know why it causes a non sealing seal , but it did then.
It should be easy to check that both wheels are vertical with a spirit level.

Regards Philip A

[dirtdawg]

ive never jumped it though, wont hurt to check i suppose!

[sumo]

Are you sure the seal is the right way round??


Earlier seals where typical landrover style had to be fitted **** up to have the seal lip facing the right way:eek::D


Cheers Sumo