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willem
5th January 2009, 07:21 PM
G'day guys,

I have just bled - for the third time! - the ABS on mt 92 RRC. Everything seems OK - but it won't pressurise properly when I switch the ignition on. The pump keeps on running and does not seem to build up pressure - it doesn't slow down after 40 or 45 seconds like it should. It just keeps on running.

I have done a search and I can't find a thread that deals with it. Anybody have any info on this, or can point me to a previous thread?

Thanks,

Willem

justinc
5th January 2009, 07:28 PM
Almost certainly needs a new accumulator.
This is the reason the pump is running all the time. Possibly also worth checking the ABS pump relay for fused contacts, but my money is on the accumulator at the moment. The relay may have bit the dust due to the pump running continually because the accumulator has lost its charge etc etc etc.

JC

BigJon
5th January 2009, 08:45 PM
What JC said. I have seen this issue before.

Also, there is a particular bleed sequence for these, I reckon I posted it a few years ago.

willem
5th January 2009, 09:36 PM
What JC said. I have seen this issue before.

Also, there is a particular bleed sequence for these, I reckon I posted it a few years ago.

Thanks BigJon and JustinC,

I have followed precisely the bleed sequence in the manual - its pretty complex and I have followed it carefully.. I would be surprised if it was the accumulator given that it wasn't playing up before - but then things can go wrong fairly quickly I suppose!

The relay you mentioned - is that the one under the passenger's seat? I'll check it first thing in the morning!

Thanks for your input.

Willem

willem
6th January 2009, 04:58 PM
G'day guys,

I think I've found the problem. The ABS pump, or more correctly, the pressure switch.

Do I have to replace the pump, or can I just replace the switch?

Does anyone have a pump for sale? I am happy to pay a fair price. This is for a 92 RRC.

BTW, can a pump from a P38 be made to work?

Thanks,

Willem

willem
8th January 2009, 04:01 PM
G'day guys,

I think I've found the problem. The ABS pump, or more correctly, the pressure switch.



G'day guys,

I have just been on the phone to Deacon Automotive, and they tell me a new ABS pump for an RRC is worth three grand! That's more than the car is worth! :eek::eek::(:(:mad::mad: Are there any options??

Willem

Grumbles
8th January 2009, 05:23 PM
Sounds expensive Willem but is it? That's a good $1500 cheaper than what I got quoted for one 12 months ago when mine gave problems.

Ring around and bargain too. Maybe even try the UK independent LR people.

If the RR is a keeper then over a few years it is worth it and will amortise itself but if the car is, shall we say, a bit sad and not a long termer then your situation is not good.

By the way, no-one will recondition them - or at least no-one I spoke to would or knew of any one who did them.

You might try a second hand one off a lower kilometres RR too. Seems it's a bit of a lottery with the Classic as to how long they last. Some die relatively early [ not as bad as an early P38 mind]and others are still going great even though the car has covered well over 300,000 kms.

I and probably others would be very interested to see what you can discover. Good luck!

whitakerb
9th January 2009, 07:13 PM
Any way to remove the abs system completly?
would be a far cheaper alternative just dont tell the licencing dept
cheers

Grumbles
9th January 2009, 08:20 PM
The insurance company might have a field day with you if you have an accident and have disabled the ABS. May be even police if they linked its removal to the accident and people were hurt. Serious charges might follow -jail, fines etc.

Choose from your options carefully.

PLR
11th January 2009, 12:30 AM
G`day ,

if you haven`t have a look on WWW.rangerovers.net (http://www.rangerovers.net)

Look in Problems & Fixes , Main page then " Classic " Repair Operation Details .

Look in Brakes , tells of pump rebuild and switch replace etc , all in USA but worlds a small place and $`s rising .

Also mention of a book on ABS by a mob that rebuild WABCO stuff .

Also also if it helps the infomation you look for should be for a type C Wabco system .

I have a link to " rover renovations " on my computer under " type C Wabco " so at some stage i think they had something to do with the RRC ABS system .
I know now there site has only EAS stuff but they are a good mob to deal with in my experience and my be worth asking via Email about ABS .

Cheers

willem
31st January 2009, 08:53 AM
Almost certainly needs a new accumulator.
This is the reason the pump is running all the time. Possibly also worth checking the ABS pump relay for fused contacts, but my money is on the accumulator at the moment. The relay may have bit the dust due to the pump running continually because the accumulator has lost its charge etc etc etc.

JC


Well guys, I think I found the problem. After Justin's comment about relays I read on Rangerovers.net that the two black relays under the seat should be replaced. I did so and now the whole system is working fine! :D:D:D:D

Phew! $23 for two relays beats three grand for a new ABS pump! :):):)

Thanks for all the comments and tips.

Willem

Lotz-A-Landies
25th June 2009, 05:00 PM
Hi people

I have recently acquired another RRc this one a 91 HiLine with ABS. (New experience this ABS stuff.) How long should I expect to wait for the brake light to go out?

When I start the light stays on, even when I move off it is on for about 100M. If the next stop/start is within about 10 mins the light goes out immediately.

What is the diagnosis?

Do I need to do anything?

While I have you'se, the handbrake light appears more like I would expect the transmission temp light to look. A gear with what looks like a thermometer in the middle. Is that correct?

Where is the best place (cheapest) for a replacement low coolent level sensor/cap?

Diana :TakeABow:

Lotz-A-Landies
26th June 2009, 02:13 PM
Ok so this is normal and the light is the correct one?

Thanks everyone.

C ya
Diana

wayneg
26th June 2009, 02:56 PM
I had a 93 classic from new and the light went out almost immediately after starting the car. I now own another 93 which is well used and the light takes about 20 seconds to go out after it leaving overnight, the pump needs to build pressure although the brakes still work fine. It never comes back on unless I leave the car for about 30 mins then its just for a few seconds. I have blead the system thoroughly using the correct protracted ABS method and also changed the accumulator sphere. Still the same and has been like that for 18 months of ownership. Bottom line is the cars brakes are spot on and I have plenty of confidence in them. The ABS warning light should stay on until the car reaches about 10 kph
The coolant level sensor can be repaired. Its a read switch that can be re soldered inside, see Range Rover Remedies (http://www.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm#coolevel) My one did not work because the float had become saturated and sunk. I cut a piece of fishing float and fitted it in place, it now works fine but looks a mess.

Pierre
27th June 2009, 05:00 PM
Diana, the transmission temp idiot light comes on with the handbrake light at startup - as a lamp check. Let the handbrake off, and both lights (trans temp & handbrake) extinguish.

It's in the drivers manual, I think. Check on the RRC CD under publications.

Cheers and HTH

Pete

LOVEMYRANGIE
1st July 2009, 11:43 PM
The coolant level sensor can be repaired. Its a read switch that can be re soldered inside, see Range Rover Remedies (http://www.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm#coolevel) My one did not work because the float had become saturated and sunk. I cut a piece of fishing float and fitted it in place, it now works fine but looks a mess.

Having the same problem atm. Already did the fix some years ago on the reed switch, but now the float is breaking up and the light comes on when cold from the pump suction in the overflow until thermostat opens.

Was contemplating using the float from my old fuel pump....

Cheers

Andrew

dungarover
4th July 2009, 10:05 PM
The ABS system is great when working well but can be painfully expensive when you start to run into issues. I removed mine and fitted the std brakes again off an earlier wreck, straight fit andf cost a hell of a lot less at around $400 for the lines, master cylinder and the booster. It all fits well and it never was picked up by the mechanic who did the roady on it.

As far as parts go, good secondhand ones (pump) go for $3-400 . I sold mine for $250 including the abs module so a fair bit of $$$ there but I just wanted it gone.

Trav

Vern
5th July 2009, 09:04 AM
If anyone needs an abs system, i just pulled mine from my 93, it can be had for the right price, otherwise it can sit until its needed or i stick it on fleabay:)