Next newbie stupid question?

[gunsports]

Question 1: Is it possible to fit a vacuum guage to a diesel (2.25) Land Rover engine and 2: if yes, where on the intake manifold will I position the vacuum take off?

[Blknight.aus]

possable but pointless..

they only make a vacuum if you have the vacuum generator on the intake manifold if you have that then anywhere on the engine side of the generator OR the main line to the brake booster would give you the same reading.

[gunsports]

Wow, you guys must be gentle with us on the dark continent! :D My LR is a '68 2.25 diesel and as far as I can see, there is no vacuum assist on the brake booster. Was a vacuum generator ever fitted to these engines? Can one be fitted?

[BigJon]

If you have a brake booster you must have vacuum assist. That is what a brake booster is!

[Blknight.aus]

you can fit it and its a simple enough process... its literally held in place by some locating screws and an oring seal on the air intake manifold.

I was going to turn the one that came on my diesel into an exhaust brake. all youd need then is the MC/booster combo out of any petrol series that has the same brake configuration that your running.

word of caution...

you know how slow it is now?

if you fit the factory vacuum generator prepare to redefine slow.

if you still want one if no one else has one for you to grab I wont be to hard to convince that the thing I have wont make a really good exhaust brake and that I should sell it.

[gunsports]

Dave, thanks for the heads up. Seems I'll let the vacuum guage go. As to speed: I'm only fetching the beast come month end but some of my mates already suggest that I use a calender instead of a watch and that I trade my GPS and get a compass - the batteries go flat before you reach your destination!:D:D

This car will be my hunting, fishing and general bug out vehicle, so speed is not that important. In any case, if I'm in a hurry, I'll take the Honda.

[87County]

AFAIK, only the Series 3 LWB diesel had the vacuum accumulator factory fitted - Dave may be able to verify this

I had to make a flapper valve to get mine working for rego

It hardly worked! (but passed rego) ... it would be better if the usual alternator mounted vacuum pump or some other vacuum pump could be installed..,

[gunsports]

On the S3 6 cyl petrol skeleton that I bought, (see 'Advice needed, lots of it'), a servo assisted brake master cylinder is fitted. The Haynes service manual S2&3 diesel, mentions the servo unit as fitted to the 2.25 diesel engine. Can the servo unit from the S3 6 cyl petrol be used as a retrofit to the 2.25 diesel engine and what is the part number of the fitting to the induction manifold that I need to complete the installation. Blknight.au mentions that fitting a vacuum gage will slow down the performance of the engine. Will the servo unit do the same? If so, what is the alternator vacuum pump that 87Country refers to and from what vehicle can this thing be scrounged?

[clean32]

as an idea

How about an electric vacume pump Like from an MR2 hook it up though a relay from the brake lights?

[gunsports]

Ok, but what is an MR2?

[gunsports]

Did some checking in SA. Seems no one has heard of the electric unit that is battery driven. However, I'm told that on some Toyota and Isuzu diesel models, they fitted an altenator that has a small vacuum pump built in. Also fitted on some land Rovers I'm told. This will apparently solve my problem. Then, made the mistake of phoning the agents. A new one costs more than what I paid for my Rover!. Will be looking for a second hand one I guess. Has anyone had any experience with these units?

[tony]

G'Day

The vac pump on the Alt came out on the 3.9 isuu, and on nissian ptrols 4.2 lit disel, and no doubt lots of others, they work well when their not leaking oil, one of their big problems,

If you fit the bigger brakes off the 109 SIII you wont need a brake booster they'll stop the old girl well. and a much cheeper option as you will allready have them

T

[clean32]

Toyota MR2, sports car thing motor in the back electric vacume pump for the brakes up front

[gunsports]

Despite the advice, I got one of those fancy alternators, recon, and cheap. See, the master cylinder on the 'old' rover is badly rusted while the vac assisted one on the 'new' rover is in very good condition. Will be cheaper to fit the alternator than a new brake master cylinder setup.

Now, the next question: I'm busy stripping the rover's body panels and have got to where I removed the seat base, firewall roof etc. Looking at the cross member behind the gearbox, I noticed that the prop shaft was very close to the one side of the opening (tunnel through x-member). Looking further, I noticed the engine and the gearbox off centre (horizontal) to the chassis. Looking still further, I saw strain on the engine and gear box mountings, in line with the off set of the engine and gearbox. The chassis seems straight and there is no evidence of repairs, damage etc. The front spring hanger (l/h side) is slightly bent, this pulling the spring towards the middle, causing the spring blades to splay a little.

Now, seems something is pulling the engine/gearbox assembly out of alignment. Can it be the forward spring hanger? Can it be that the axles are out of alignment with the chassis? Any opinions?

I feel a little ashamed to post this: seems I was not that clever when I bought my 'bargain'. Luckilly, when I bought the other rover, I got a complete spare chassis with it.

[chazza]

Now, the next question: I'm busy stripping the rover's body panels and have got to where I removed the seat base, firewall roof etc. Looking at the cross member behind the gearbox, I noticed that the prop shaft was very close to the one side of the opening (tunnel through x-member). Looking further, I noticed the engine and the gearbox off centre (horizontal) to the chassis. Looking still further, I saw strain on the engine and gear box mountings, in line with the off set of the engine and gearbox. The chassis seems straight and there is no evidence of repairs, damage etc. The front spring hanger (l/h side) is slightly bent, this pulling the spring towards the middle, causing the spring blades to splay a little.

Now, seems something is pulling the engine/gearbox assembly out of alignment. Can it be the forward spring hanger? Can it be that the axles are out of alignment with the chassis? Any opinions?



You need to measure the squareness of the chassis - the workshop manual details how to do this - essentially you need a nice level concrete floor, a plumb bob, and a measuring tape. The reference points marked on the floor can then be measured with a steel tape and compared to the dimensions on the chassis drawing.

Any decent panel shop should be able to pull it straight but it might cost you a few hundred dollars. Alternatively; if the damage is minor it can be a straight forward exercise to partially cut the damaged part of the chassis and bend the offending part back into line or even cut it off and replace with a piece that you have made.

You definitely need to inspect the chassis further along the longitudinal from the spring hanger; look for creases, paint damage, etc. to see how far the impact damage has travelled.

I am not sure what you mean by the engine an gearbox being off centre as they were built that way but if you can see distortion of the mounts, that suggests that the longitudinal rail has been bent probably near the damaged spring hanger.

If the damage is major, replacing the chassis is a viable option. Check your spare one carefully to see if is the same and keep the old one until the job is finished, as there is likely to be the odd bracket or fastener that you will need,

Cheers Charlie

[gunsports]

Seems what started out as a repair, will now end up as a complete tear down and rebuild. Ah, the joys of land rover ownership!. Yesterday moved a truckload of land rover bits from various locations to a mate's workshop yard where these items will be stored till use. Amongst others, I have 8 diffs, 4 front and 4 back, including a 'short' front set which I think comes off an old S1. Some of the diff casings are rusted and will be tossed. But, I plan to use the innards to rebuild a set to use on my rover. Question: These are all Rover diffs as far as I can tell. Do they all have the same ratio's, even when the front unit I plan to use comes off a 6 cyl? Can the play in the diff be adjusted? Seems when turning the propshaft, it turns some distance before the wheel moves. 'Nother question: is the steering box of the 6cyl late s2a compatable with that of the earlier models?