300tdi auto wont change when cold

[disco_mitch]

its got 130ks on it only bought it a few weeks ago and until you have done a k or 2 it wont get out of first once it warms up does not miss a beat and changes perfect could it just need a oil change ill be doing that on the weekend

[Psimpson7]

from memory a gearbox oil and filter change should resolve it... I think there is a filter inside the ZF.

[B92 8NW]

Oh dear:eek:

How many revs approx before it goes from 1st to 2nd? The theory is that contaminants enter the governor and cause this problem. You can change the governor in situ, but it is not a perfect solution.

A fluid change might mitigate the problem, it certainly won't hurt...

[disco_mitch]

Oh dear:eek:

How many revs approx before it goes from 1st to 2nd? The theory is that contaminants enter the governor and cause this problem. You can change the governor in situ, but it is not a perfect solution.

A fluid change might mitigate the problem, it certainly won't hurt...

how hard is it to change the govenor ill be doing the oil and filter on the weekend

[justinc]

Certainly sounds like a sticking governor, and no they aren't an easy change. Transfer case off, extension housing off autobox and there it is. But I would do a fluid change etc first and try it as suggested.

JC

[87County]

Certainly sounds like a sticking governor, and no they aren't an easy change. Transfer case off, extension housing off autobox and there it is. But I would do a fluid change etc first and try it as suggested.

JC

Hi JC, I've read that it's an idea to do a couple of fluid changes (to try to drain most of the older fluid still caught up in the tc) if there's a problem like this...

Is this what you have found ???

regards - Laurie

[justinc]

Hi Laurie, I guess it depends on how filthy the fluid and the insides of the trans are in the first place. Both the ones I tried it on were pretty well 'unserviced' prior to this, IE the fluid looked like engine oil:mad:. One of them eventually had to have a governor replacement as it worked only in the short term, and the other vehicle was I think taken interstate so I couldn't comment on that one. Basically yes, If the oil is really disgusting I would do it several times, it can't hurt, as as you know the converter can't be drained and the volume of oil in them is quite a bit. Flushing the trans is possibly worth it, but I don't have one of those expensive flushing systems, I just drain and refill the trans and drive it, then drop the oil again and change filter etc and that is usually sufficient. Disconnecting a cooler line and running the engine etc is a recipe for another Exxon oil disaster:p

JC

[87County]

thanks Justin (I enjoyed the word picture about oil going everywhere :))

[B92 8NW]

I was led to believe that the only definitive answer is a rebuild, as the problem will recur eventually because it is failing clutch packs that are depositing material in the governor assembly.

It's a precarious situation, putting in new oil [particularly a synthetic] could dislodge more contaminants and exacerbate the problem.

Ashcroft Transmissions (http://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq_category_3.html#a2) (at the bottom)

[mcrover]

I was led to believe that the only definitive answer is a rebuild, as the problem will recur eventually because it is failing clutch packs that are depositing material in the governor assembly.

It's a precarious situation, putting in new oil [particularly a synthetic] could dislodge more contaminants and exacerbate the problem.

Ashcroft Transmissions (http://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq_category_3.html#a2) (at the bottom)

From day one the clutch packs are depositing material somewhere.

It is just an accumulation of such material which is the problem.

The propper fix would be a rebuild if the box is probably older than 250,000kms but I would try changing the filter and the fluid a couple of times first.

Mine has done this once after a trip up and down some narly big hills with Rangieman but a trans service and all is good.

[disco_mitch]

well ill change oil and filter on the weekend and see how that goes it only has 130ks on it but it did have an electronic brake controler so maybe its done some hard towing

[disco_mitch]

well i got a service kit and some penrite fluid going to tackle it today anyone got and helpfull hints or suggestions, will i hurt anything with a air ratchet or should it all be done by hand are the sump bolts done up to a certain tourqe or are they just bt

[justinc]

well i got a service kit and some penrite fluid going to tackle it today anyone got and helpfull hints or suggestions, will i hurt anything with a air ratchet or should it all be done by hand are the sump bolts done up to a certain tourqe or are they just bt

Don't forget to have a 'Torx' bit, size T27, on hand to remove the filter assembly inside. Also, you may well have to remove the LHside gearbox mounting bracket off the casing to gain access to the LH rear corner auto sump bolt. It is held on with 4 x 19mm ring spanner size bolts. You will also have to remove the 2 x 15mm nuts under the gearbox mounts to lift the trans enough to slide the sump forward and downwards. There is no need to remove the crossmember with the Diesel autos, and it adds a certain amount of difficulty to the job by doing so.
Sump bolts are done up by hand quite tightly. They bottom the bracket out so stop there. DO NOT use an air ratchet on the T27's holding the filter on. If you strip one of these out you are in BBBIIIIGGGG trouble:eek:

Enjoy, and have a change of clothes handy if you are lying under it:p

JC

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Enjoy, and have a change of clothes handy if you are lying under it:p

JC


PICS!!!!
:p

[disco_mitch]

ok its a dumb question i know and i feel like a dick for asking it but where is the filler for the auto box

[B92 8NW]

ok its a dumb question i know and i feel like a dick for asking it but where is the filler for the auto box

In the engine room, against the firewall to the right of the fuel filter, to the left of the engine.

[disco_mitch]

In the engine room, against the firewall to the right of the fuel filter, to the left of the engine.

are you talking about the dipstick

[B92 8NW]

are you talking about the dipstick

Yep you refill it through that. I bought an ATF funnel at autobarn, got a long thin hose on it, easier than trying to manoeuvre a bottle down there.

[disco_mitch]

Yep you refill it through that. I bought an ATF funnel at autobarn, got a long thin hose on it, easier than trying to manoeuvre a bottle down there.

holey crap never would have thought it would get filled back up through there owell ill get onto it now keep me some hints coming ill get some snaps to

[B92 8NW]

holey crap never would have thought it would get filled back up through there owell ill get onto it now keep me some hints coming ill get some snaps to

Pour the same quantity in as what came out:D

[Reads90]

Hope This is the same problem i had on my 300 TDi disco before it completly carped it self. It would not select 2 but only when cold and then after an oil change it got worse and would not select 2nd at all. Found out that the oil was full of water and the oil fileter had not been changed for years. Had to have a whole new box in the end

[mcrover]

Hope This is the same problem i had on my 300 TDi disco before it completly carped it self. It would not select 2 but only when cold and then after an oil change it got worse and would not select 2nd at all. Found out that the oil was full of water and the oil fileter had not been changed for years. Had to have a whole new box in the end

Yeah, water is the clutch plates worst enemy in an auto box.

Ive been told by my mate who used to be a builder at A & B that it takes about a teaspoon of water in the il to kill a normal auto trans (Borg 35/Turbo 350/Trimatic) but im not sure how much the ZF will tolerate, I wouldnt imagine it would be much.

[disco_mitch]

done a run to good old super cheap and got some heavy duty ramps, grage creeper and funnel to fill it what a godsend they are, now i need a spanner to undo the dipstick where it meets the pan back to super again lol bloody 20k trip each way

[disco_mitch]

Hope This is the same problem i had on my 300 TDi disco before it completly carped it self. It would not select 2 but only when cold and then after an oil change it got worse and would not select 2nd at all. Found out that the oil was full of water and the oil fileter had not been changed for years. Had to have a whole new box in the end

ohh no thats not promsiing

[disco_mitch]

well i think ive done it right, just filling it back up will post pics soon, was quite a bit of gunk in the bottom

[disco_mitch]

filled it back up put almost what i took out minus a bit, and on the dipstick it is showing fluid half way up ive let it settle for a while, but i assume its from where i have just poured fluid down there what should i do

[justinc]

Hi Jeep boy,

Remember to start the engine and run the vehicle through the gears, stopping briefly at each selector position. Then recheck the oil level on LEVEL ground idling in neutral. From min to max these take only about .5 of a litre, so be careful not to overfill it. Fill it to about the top mark while idling in Neutral, box cold.

Sometimes they take a while to settle to a level, so leave it idling for a little bit to check the level accurately.

Finally, go for a brief drive, say 5 or 6 km and recheck the level, it should be slightly above the top mark if the oil is warmish, say 30 to 40 degrees.

How much gunk, and what colour/ consistency?

JC

[chazza]

When I changed the oil on mine, it took about 5 days of checking it each morning when cold and adding another 100ml each time before I got it to measure full consistently; so make sure you check it the morning after for a while,

Cheers Charlie

[disco_mitch]

its readig over at the moment but it looks like there its from where i poured it in so im leavin it to settle why i have a feed than ill have anather look

[disco_mitch]

well its still readin heaps over but i haven put back as much as i took out what should i do

[justinc]

well its still readin heaps over but i haven put back as much as i took out what should i do

Are you running the vehicle while dipping it? They can take around 5.5 litres as the pump housing empties when the filter is undone, but there is still a couple of litres in the converter that won't come out.

Idle in Neutral, check the dipstick. How far above the full line is it up the stick when cold, idling?

JC

[disco_mitch]

Are you running the vehicle while dipping it? They can take around 5.5 litres as the pump housing empties when the filter is undone, but there is still a couple of litres in the converter that won't come out.

Idle in Neutral, check the dipstick. How far above the full line is it up the stick when cold, idling?

JC

yea im doing when cold in nuetral and its reading a few inches above the full mark been draining it out bit at a time and it looks like its coming down ill check it again now

[Pedro_The_Swift]

done a run to good old super cheap and got some heavy duty ramps, grage creeper and funnel to fill it what a godsend they are, now i need a spanner to undo the dipstick where it meets the pan back to super again lol bloody 20k trip each way


you are dipping this with the vehicle LEVEL?

[Juff]

Hi, few things I learnt after having problems with mine. I got the auto box serviced in Sydney and it made it all the way up the coast to about 100km north of Cooktown when the sump pan gasket split and dumped all the fluid and burnt out the "A" clutch. The mechanic who did the job reckons it was a dud seal, the auto transmission gurus who rebuilt the box for me reckon he overtightened it causing the split. Either way dont over tighten the sump bolts and keep a bit of an eye on it for leaks!!

Not long after the rebuild I was checking the level after a short drive and found pratically nothing on the dipstick. No leaks and after a phone call the the "guru" again he told me to take it for another drive and get it up to normal operating temperature and check it again with the engine still running which I did and there it was, all ok!! I recently change the fluid again with similar results, to get an accurate reading the fluid has to be hot/normal operating temperature.

[disco_mitch]

im checking it on level ground, when its cold in park, one time it reads half way up the stick the next time it reads spot on next time it reads nothing, and one side is always higher than the other,
took it for a drive got about 5ks, and up hilld it was jerking like it was momenteraly going in and out of gear, and made a few small nasty sounds, got it back home checked the level and once again, way over full clean redip perfect, clean redip nothing, clean redip overfull this is really starting to bother me, it still took ages to get out of first, im ready to take it somewhere but the car only has 130ks on it surely it shouldent have box probs this early

[mcrover]

im checking it on level ground, when its cold in park, one time it reads half way up the stick the next time it reads spot on next time it reads nothing, and one side is always higher than the other,
took it for a drive got about 5ks, and up hilld it was jerking like it was momenteraly going in and out of gear, and made a few small nasty sounds, got it back home checked the level and once again, way over full clean redip perfect, clean redip nothing, clean redip overfull this is really starting to bother me, it still took ages to get out of first, im ready to take it somewhere but the car only has 13ks on it surely it shouldent have box probs this early

You would hope not but are you sure the Kms are genuine and you cant be sure how well the box has been looked after.

It sounds like a valve body problem, I wouldnt be too worried about the dip stick, sometimes they vibrate around at the bottom (with the vehicle idling) so you just take an average.

If it's holding 1st then it sounds like a govner problem, probably got a heap of crap in it but the slipping in and out sounds like either a sprag or clutch not locking completely.

How is your kickdown cable adjusted as this is critical to get full line pressure to your clutch packs and govner etc, it should have a bit of pressure on it, 5mm comes to mind so basically if you pull the pin and let the arm on the injector pump rest then set the cable to about 5mm back from that then pull the arm back (or the cable forward) and drop the pin back in.

Just play with the adjustment from there to get the right shift feel.

Be a little careful though as too much tension will break the end off the cable in the box and not enough can cause bad shift pattern and wear away at clutch packs etc.

[chazza]

..., to get an accurate reading the fluid has to be hot/normal operating temperature.

The driver's handbook says quite specifically that to get an accurate reading the ambient temperature should be 20C. In other words the gearbox should be cold. The dipstick also has the words "check cold" stamped on it.

It also says to check the level while the engine is running in Park. Have you had any luck yet Jeep Boy?

Cheers Charlie

[disco_mitch]

You would hope not but are you sure the Kms are genuine and you cant be sure how well the box has been looked after.

It sounds like a valve body problem, I wouldnt be too worried about the dip stick, sometimes they vibrate around at the bottom (with the vehicle idling) so you just take an average.

If it's holding 1st then it sounds like a govner problem, probably got a heap of crap in it but the slipping in and out sounds like either a sprag or clutch not locking completely.

How is your kickdown cable adjusted as this is critical to get full line pressure to your clutch packs and govner etc, it should have a bit of pressure on it, 5mm comes to mind so basically if you pull the pin and let the arm on the injector pump rest then set the cable to about 5mm back from that then pull the arm back (or the cable forward) and drop the pin back in.

Just play with the adjustment from there to get the right shift feel.

Be a little careful though as too much tension will break the end off the cable in the box and not enough can cause bad shift pattern and wear away at clutch packs etc.

before i changed the oil it was perfect just took a bit to get out of first when it was cold, now it still does that but up hills its like it slips into neutral for a split ceond and back into gear than nuteral...... so im thinking maybe lfuid is low and up hills its not picking up fluid, when checking why does the car have to be running, im thinking it could be a sticking govenor, as for ks im pretty sure there genuine,

[disco_mitch]

You would hope not but are you sure the Kms are genuine and you cant be sure how well the box has been looked after.

It sounds like a valve body problem, I wouldnt be too worried about the dip stick, sometimes they vibrate around at the bottom (with the vehicle idling) so you just take an average.

If it's holding 1st then it sounds like a govner problem, probably got a heap of crap in it but the slipping in and out sounds like either a sprag or clutch not locking completely.

How is your kickdown cable adjusted as this is critical to get full line pressure to your clutch packs and govner etc, it should have a bit of pressure on it, 5mm comes to mind so basically if you pull the pin and let the arm on the injector pump rest then set the cable to about 5mm back from that then pull the arm back (or the cable forward) and drop the pin back in.

Just play with the adjustment from there to get the right shift feel.

Be a little careful though as too much tension will break the end off the cable in the box and not enough can cause bad shift pattern and wear away at clutch packs etc.

before i changed the oil it was perfect just took a bit to get out of first when it was cold, now it still does that but up hills its like it slips into neutral for a split ceond and back into gear than nuteral...... so im thinking maybe lfuid is low and up hills its not picking up fluid, when checking why does the car have to be running, im thinking it could be a sticking govenor, as for ks im pretty sure there genuine 130 not 13 that i put before i missed a zero, but the more and more i look at it the more and more it looks like it has had a poor service life

[B92 8NW]

How is your kickdown cable adjusted as this is critical to get full line pressure to your clutch packs and govner etc, it should have a bit of pressure on it, 5mm comes to mind so basically if you pull the pin and let the arm on the injector pump rest then set the cable to about 5mm back from that then pull the arm back (or the cable forward) and drop the pin back in.

Just play with the adjustment from there to get the right shift feel.

Be a little careful though as too much tension will break the end off the cable in the box and not enough can cause bad shift pattern and wear away at clutch packs etc.

Compared to my cable that sounds awfully tight. My kickdown cable has about 5mm free play in it whilst the throttle plate is at idle position, and it's connected to hole number 1.

Unless its chronically low, I'd have thought small differences in the fluid level wouldn't have caused it to slip in and out of gear. Sounds like all that crap inside was what was providing drive:D. Now that its been removed the forward clutch is probably metal on metal and slipping to buggery.

[disco_mitch]

Compared to my cable that sounds awfully tight. My kickdown cable has about 5mm free play in it whilst the throttle plate is at idle position, and it's connected to hole number 1.

Unless its chronically low, I'd have thought small differences in the fluid level wouldn't have caused it to slip in and out of gear. Sounds like all that crap inside was what was providing drive:D. Now that its been removed the forward clutch is probably metal on metal and slipping to buggery.

you sound abut right coz i know it normally dont like reverse up our driveway unless i give it a boot at the bottom but it just didnt seem to wana go up ended up putting it in low range, but should i be having these problems at 130k, whats it worth to exchange for a second hand box

[mcrover]

Compared to my cable that sounds awfully tight. My kickdown cable has about 5mm free play in it whilst the throttle plate is at idle position, and it's connected to hole number 1.

Unless its chronically low, I'd have thought small differences in the fluid level wouldn't have caused it to slip in and out of gear. Sounds like all that crap inside was what was providing drive:D. Now that its been removed the forward clutch is probably metal on metal and slipping to buggery.

Well if yours has free play then yours is not adjusted correctly :o

It has to be under tension, no question as it will cause damage to the box eventually due to low line pressure.

If you dont believe me, look in your RAVE, or any service manual or ask JC or any of the other LR mechs.


you sound abut right coz i know it normally dont like reverse up our driveway unless i give it a boot at the bottom but it just didnt seem to wana go up ended up putting it in low range, but should i be having these problems at 130k, whats it worth to exchange for a second hand box

130k doesnt mean it will be any good, there are dozens of reasons why the trans may have failed early, No servicing, heavy towing, high temps, oil contamination lack of line pressure etc etc.

I would get a professional opinion on it before pulling the box as it may be a valve body or govner issue which can be sorted with it in.

I have seen second hand ones for as low as $600 on Ebay but there is no guarentee of their quality and anything up to about $3000 for a change over from A&B which is basically a new trans in the old case fully tested and guarenteed or anything in between to have a normal auto shop do it or more than $3k for a moded up one with 3rd lock up, 4hp24 mods for added strength, sprag mods so you dont chew out a sprag and the list goes on.

[disco_mitch]

mmm my biggest issue right now is getting the fluid level right might get the missus to hold it still maybe the vibrations are making it go high and its low and thats why its playing up,

why does the car have to be running to check it

[disco_mitch]

with the car both off and on it is reading an inch above full, so ill drain some a bit out and check it and keep draining small amounts till it sits level

[mcrover]

It needs to be running so that all the nessesary componants are full of oil such as the Torque converter and pump, clutch servos etc etc and still have an adaquate amount of oil in reserve for flushing and cooling.

You cant just mark a spot on the dipstick and check when cold as some componants wont always drain down, it depends on what part of their cycle they are in when stopped (I think.....something along those lines).

If you can just wind up the idle to a nice steady 800Rpm or something like that and it should be nice and smooth, if it Idles lower than that then you probably want to bump it up anyway and if it's still a bit rough then there may be other issues.

Just thinking that if the pump relief valve was sticking open it might play havock with the level and the internal pressures in the box as it would grab prime and lose it again inconsistantly more at low revs.

Again though, it's a bit grabbing at straws, a pressure test would help a lot in diagnosing this problem.

Dont stress too much about the oil level being a bit high, better to have a bit too much than not enough.

The oil level (as long as you put as much or a bit more than what came out) should be fine and wont make any difference to how the trans changes so start looking at other possabilities and treat the fluctuating oil level as a symptom not so much a cause.

[disco_mitch]

well some good news, dropped some fluid out, took it for a beatin drove it like i hate it, still wont change when cold, but once it warmed up still kept jumping at 2rpm but after about 10ks it drove like a dream i wanted to give it a pat good lil disco, so were back together now its love again

[disco_mitch]

just took it for anathor drive and got home went to put it in reverse and nothing, went to put it in drive and now now i got nothing its like the selector cable broke

[disco_mitch]

left it for five went back still woulden go in but went into park, put it in drive gave it a few revs and it kicked into gear at 2krpm drove it bck down the driveway and its working fine now, any ideas what it could be checked the fluid and while its warm its now reading half way beetween the dots

[justinc]

I would guess that the rubber O ring between the valve body and the filter has fallen to one side during installation and is not sealing properly. (The larger diameter one in the kit) This will give the same symptoms as low or no fluid, and will allow the fluid from the pump and converter to drain back to the sump after turning off, and will have to refill the converter etc before any drive happens again. Also, it will hop out of gear etc up hills as the pressure will be way too low with that sort of air leak. I would be dropping the sump and filter again and checking this O ring. If you continue driving it like this it will strip more clutch material off the packs due to low pressures.
I re read the posts and also noticed you said you had very little difference in oil level when engine was on or off. This is almost certainly due to that O ring leaking.

JC

[goldey]

Jeepboy

As someone who has a buggered auto, my amateur prognosis based on what you've written and the advice I've received from experts (after they've pressure tested the box and investigated contaminants in the oil) is you may be up for some large biccies.

I have a 98 tdi Disco auto. It has a touch under 140,000 k's on it, the engine is sweet, but the gearbox has always run a bit hot. 6 months ago, I replaced the standard auto cooler with a much larger one from a P38A range rover. This seemed to sort the overheating issues out, but three weeks ago the gearbox started slipping like crazy and wouldn't change out of 1st until I got the revs waaayyyyy high (regardless of cold or hot) and the oil smelt like it had served time in a blast furnace (didn't smell good at all). I now know the damage was well and truly done (most likely by the previous owner, who used to do a lot of towing of horse floats).

Solution in my case is replacing the existing auto with a fully reconditioned exchange unit from A&B Automotive in Dandenong (with a 3rd gear lockup conversion, apparently much better for towing). It arrives tomorrow and my local Landie experts get to change them over on Tuesday. I haven't been able to get anywhere near my wallet for some time as it is still smoking hot ........ :eek::eek:. I'm hoping to get out of it without going over about $3600.

I hope you get yours sorted out, but it's sounding kind of familiar........ sorry :(:(.

Goldey

[disco_mitch]

I would guess that the rubber O ring between the valve body and the filter has fallen to one side during installation and is not sealing properly. (The larger diameter one in the kit) This will give the same symptoms as low or no fluid, and will allow the fluid from the pump and converter to drain back to the sump after turning off, and will have to refill the converter etc before any drive happens again. Also, it will hop out of gear etc up hills as the pressure will be way too low with that sort of air leak. I would be dropping the sump and filter again and checking this O ring. If you continue driving it like this it will strip more clutch material off the packs due to low pressures.
I re read the posts and also noticed you said you had very little difference in oil level when engine was on or off. This is almost certainly due to that O ring leaking.

JC

**** **** **** **** ****, you smacked the nail on the head i didnt put that bloody o ring back on what the hell was i thinking im such a fool glas i have some extra fluid ill drop it out put the o ring on and hope she is all well, would i have done damage or should it be ok

[justinc]

**** **** **** **** ****, you smacked the nail on the head i didnt put that bloody o ring back on what the hell was i thinking im such a fool glas i have some extra fluid ill drop it out put the o ring on and hope she is all well, would i have done damage or should it be ok

It'll be OK if you only drove a short while, but you may notice some clutch material in the sump already:(
I bet you're upset at yourself now for driving it like you stole it:twisted::twisted:

Glad its a simple fix though:):) unfortunately (or fortunately?) I've seen this sort of thing before...

JC

[mcrover]

I would guess that the rubber O ring between the valve body and the filter has fallen to one side during installation and is not sealing properly. (The larger diameter one in the kit) This will give the same symptoms as low or no fluid, and will allow the fluid from the pump and converter to drain back to the sump after turning off, and will have to refill the converter etc before any drive happens again. Also, it will hop out of gear etc up hills as the pressure will be way too low with that sort of air leak. I would be dropping the sump and filter again and checking this O ring. If you continue driving it like this it will strip more clutch material off the packs due to low pressures.
I re read the posts and also noticed you said you had very little difference in oil level when engine was on or off. This is almost certainly due to that O ring leaking.

JC


So thats what happens if you dont fit that o ring properly :D

That makes sense JC :D


Jeepboy

As someone who has a buggered auto, my amateur prognosis based on what you've written and the advice I've received from experts (after they've pressure tested the box and investigated contaminants in the oil) is you may be up for some large biccies.

I have a 98 tdi Disco auto. It has a touch under 140,000 k's on it, the engine is sweet, but the gearbox has always run a bit hot. 6 months ago, I replaced the standard auto cooler with a much larger one from a P38A range rover. This seemed to sort the overheating issues out, but three weeks ago the gearbox started slipping like crazy and wouldn't change out of 1st until I got the revs waaayyyyy high (regardless of cold or hot) and the oil smelt like it had served time in a blast furnace (didn't smell good at all). I now know the damage was well and truly done (most likely by the previous owner, who used to do a lot of towing of horse floats).

Solution in my case is replacing the existing auto with a fully reconditioned exchange unit from A&B Automotive in Dandenong (with a 3rd gear lockup conversion, apparently much better for towing). It arrives tomorrow and my local Landie experts get to change them over on Tuesday. I haven't been able to get anywhere near my wallet for some time as it is still smoking hot ........ :eek::eek:. I'm hoping to get out of it without going over about $3600.

I hope you get yours sorted out, but it's sounding kind of familiar........ sorry :(:(.

Goldey


There you go, you might be able to get out of it worst case scenareo about $3600

[B92 8NW]

Well if yours has free play then yours is not adjusted correctly :o

It has to be under tension, no question as it will cause damage to the box eventually due to low line pressure.

If you dont believe me, look in your RAVE, or any service manual or ask JC or any of the other LR mechs.



I'm not doubting you mate, it's just that there is a few mm play at idle.

The box has been out recently and it has been properly set up by a main dealer prior to sale to me, it shifts at the right road speeds and kicks down when needed so I'm going to be worried about it.

RAVE seems to detail only the V8s so its not much use.

If it blows up, A&B get a rebuild job and I'll sue the repairer for the cost for not setting it proper:D:D

[B92 8NW]

Goldey please let me know how the 3 rd gear lockup works on a 300Tdi when done.

Cheers!

[disco_mitch]

It'll be OK if you only drove a short while, but you may notice some clutch material in the sump already:(
I bet you're upset at yourself now for driving it like you stole it:twisted::twisted:

Glad its a simple fix though:):) unfortunately (or fortunately?) I've seen this sort of thing before...

JC

done prob 20ks hope i havent done damage i cant slap myself enough just went outside and there it was sitting on the ground where i put the botttom one on and rushed and missed the top one gosh cant believe im that stoopid

[mcrover]

I'm not doubting you mate, it's just that there is a few mm play at idle.

The box has been out recently and it has been properly set up by a main dealer prior to sale to me, it shifts at the right road speeds and kicks down when needed so I'm going to be worried about it.

RAVE seems to detail only the V8s so its not much use.

If it blows up, A&B get a rebuild job and I'll sue the repairer for the cost for not setting it proper:D:D

Your trans, your problem, Ive told you how it should be, it isnt very clear in the RAVE CD ,I just had a look but it is the same on both V8 and Diesel as the trans is pretty much the same.

The Rave take into account a new cable and obviously doesnt take into account worn holes or pins.

It was Mal at Mornington Prestige (Ex Deacon automotive) who showed me how to set the kick down cable properly and explained to me why it is so important.

Dont trust any car yard to do a propper job, they will only do enough to get the car out of the workshop and thats about it, they will fix it if it stuffs up but I doubt you will get an A&B reco out of them as they will only take the lowest possible cost to them and legally thats all they have to do and no matter how good with the legal clap trap you cant make them pay more than they need to to get your car out of their workshop.

I suggest you take it to a decent LR specilist who knows how these things should be set up for a second opinion before you just resign yourself to it being good enough as from what your saying, it doesnt sound right and to fix it properly will cost a penny and if they dont do it properly it will cost you down the track anyway.

Im not trying to harp on but there is no reason to leave such a simple adjustment that can do so much damage due to ignorance or the fact that you are prepared to sue the people who sold it to you if it stuffs up.

By the way, depending on how you drive (the load) depends on how long it will last with a loose KD cable so it may last until just out of warrenty and then it's your $3600 no matter what you do.:(

[B92 8NW]

Your trans, your problem, Ive told you how it should be, it isnt very clear in the RAVE CD ,I just had a look but it is the same on both V8 and Diesel as the trans is pretty much the same.

The Rave take into account a new cable and obviously doesnt take into account worn holes or pins.

It was Mal at Mornington Prestige (Ex Deacon automotive) who showed me how to set the kick down cable properly and explained to me why it is so important.

Dont trust any car yard to do a propper job, they will only do enough to get the car out of the workshop and thats about it, they will fix it if it stuffs up but I doubt you will get an A&B reco out of them as they will only take the lowest possible cost to them and legally thats all they have to do and no matter how good with the legal clap trap you cant make them pay more than they need to to get your car out of their workshop.

I suggest you take it to a decent LR specilist who knows how these things should be set up for a second opinion before you just resign yourself to it being good enough as from what your saying, it doesnt sound right and to fix it properly will cost a penny and if they dont do it properly it will cost you down the track anyway.

Im not trying to harp on but there is no reason to leave such a simple adjustment that can do so much damage due to ignorance or the fact that you are prepared to sue the people who sold it to you if it stuffs up.

By the way, depending on how you drive (the load) depends on how long it will last with a loose KD cable so it may last until just out of warrenty and then it's your $3600 no matter what you do.:(

JC just contacted me out of the blue and explained the set up. Seems I was slightly mistaken but it's all good now.

Which is good as I'm going on a trip in the morning:D

[disco_mitch]

this cable adjustment, is it where it meets the box and has a threaeded rod at the end of the cable

[justinc]

this cable adjustment, is it where it meets the box and has a threaeded rod at the end of the cable

The kickdown cable is the one from the injector pump down to the trans on the LH side. The one you are talking about sounds like the shifter cable. It has a threaded rod at the gearbox end?

JC

[mcrover]

JC just contacted me out of the blue and explained the set up. Seems I was slightly mistaken but it's all good now.

Which is good as I'm going on a trip in the morning:D

:D:D:D

[disco_mitch]

The kickdown cable is the one from the injector pump down to the trans on the LH side. The one you are talking about sounds like the shifter cable. It has a threaded rod at the gearbox end?

JC

thats the one, i looked at mine and i can wobble it not excessive but how tense should it be it seems like it prob wont take much more tenison

[justinc]

thats the one, i looked at mine and i can wobble it not excessive but how tense should it be it seems like it prob wont take much more tenison

The shifter cable is fine like that, the kickdown cable up at the injection pump should have a bit of freeplay etc.

JC

[mcrover]

The shifter cable is fine like that, the kickdown cable up at the injection pump should have a bit of freeplay etc.

JC

Please explain JC?

[disco_mitch]

well took me an hour to drain it put the o ring on and fill it back up than took a while to get the level right but now its good and its going great still wont change when its cold but

[mcrover]

well took me an hour to drain it put the o ring on and fill it back up than took a while to get the level right but now its good and its going great still wont change when its cold but

Something a bit sticky there I would think, there is a fair bit of fault finding on the RAVE Cd, give it a squiz.

[disco_mitch]

Something a bit sticky there I would think, there is a fair bit of fault finding on the RAVE Cd, give it a squiz.

where do i get a rave cd

[bblaze]

off this site, top bar and look in the shop. reminds me I must replace mine as it wont read any more (some hing to do with deserts,sand and scrathes

[mcrover]

Dave's Interesting Things - RAVENAS (http://www.davesitshop.com/davesitshop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=52)

[justinc]

Please explain JC?

Sorry Damo, just looked back at this post again,

The kickdown cable on the Tdi (and the V8 for that matter) will have a bit of slack against spring pressure that is exerted from the return spring down in the box connected to the 'cam' assembly, which actuates the actual shift pressure valve when the cable is moved. The rate in which this valve is moved is determined by the cam profile,(Different profiles even between V8 and diesel, model years, bla bla )and the adjustment available on the injector pump throttle lever (those 4 holes) The overall cable length adjustment is easier to determine by depressing the pedal to the floor and just off the floor a resistance should be felt, like a detent. This is the full 'dump' for downshift. The rate of pressure rise can be adjusted by trying the different holes out, but basically driveability is the best way to adjust these without a gauge. Gearchanges should be clean and at a reasonable revs, throttle position and road speed. I sometimes need about 30 minutes of driving and adjusting to setup a ZF after fitting a new downshift cable.

JC

[nice1guv]

Just read this thread, and am hoping someone might be able to answer a few related questions?

When people say it doesn't change when cold and other have to rev it way high?
Does that mean it won't change to 2nd at all when cold?
Way high revs, is that 4000rpm or what?

I'm new to this D1 300Tdi auto, so what are the usual gear changes, revs etc?
Mine seems to have 2 "modes": normal acceleration always changes at 3000rpm, especially when cold. Very slight acceleration, changes maybe 2000rpm? It always kicks back to 1st when rounding 90 degree corners and accelerating back up, is that normal?
Also forgot to add that 1st to 2nd, especially when cold, is quite a harsh shift at 3000rpm under normal acceleration. Calms down a bit when warm.
If accelerating harder the change from 1 to 2 is much less harsh.

Jeep boy: when you changed the filter and oil, did you remove the left side transfer box mount as JC said to get to the back left nut on the pan? Did you use a jack to hold the transfer box in place once the left side mount was removed? It doesn't appear that you have to lift the box at all, just undo and remove the mount, is that right?

[neil-d1]

Just read this thread, and am hoping someone might be able to answer a few related questions?

When people say it doesn't change when cold and other have to rev it way high?
Does that mean it won't change to 2nd at all when cold?
Way high revs, is that 4000rpm or what?

I'm new to this D1 300Tdi auto, so what are the usual gear changes, revs etc?
Mine seems to have 2 "modes": normal acceleration always changes at 3000rpm, especially when cold. Very slight acceleration, changes maybe 2000rpm? It always kicks back to 1st when rounding 90 degree corners and accelerating back up, is that normal?
Also forgot to add that 1st to 2nd, especially when cold, is quite a harsh shift at 3000rpm under normal acceleration. Calms down a bit when warm.
If accelerating harder the change from 1 to 2 is much less harsh.

Jeep boy: when you changed the filter and oil, did you remove the left side transfer box mount as JC said to get to the back left nut on the pan? Did you use a jack to hold the transfer box in place once the left side mount was removed? It doesn't appear that you have to lift the box at all, just undo and remove the mount, is that right?


when i did mine i had to support with jack

[disco_mitch]

well it is only getting worse so ive decided to bite the bloody bullet and get it fixed im not sure where to go around newcastle, im thinking maitland auto transmissions if anyone knows anywhere good feel free to send me a text with the name on 0434 00 88 54 i dont have much net acess as my computer died its just one thing after anather atm owell goota be done