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View Full Version : Detroit no spin and truetrac lockers via USA



extreme6.5
8th January 2009, 02:58 PM
G'day all,
I want to put a no spin/detroit locker in the rear of my 2001 defender and a true trac in the front.I have been told that the no-spin is exactly the same unit as the detroit softlocker, the only difference being that the detroit locker comes in it's own hemisphere case.
The defender hemisphere case suits apparently so I can save a few bucks with no spin rather than the detroit locker.
A quick look on Ebay motors and I reckon I could land the two here(no spin and truetrac) for about A$1300-(total for both).To buy locally about $2100-.
So $800- in front via US.
Problem is the ebay websites have a lot of different detroit/no spin/tru trac lockers for all sorts of different applications and I am a bit of a mechanical bunny....:eek:
Can anyone help with a part number or advice generally on exactly what to order??
I've got maxidrive axles front and rear.
Thanks in advance for any help fellas...:D

discowhite
8th January 2009, 03:14 PM
contact revor.
Untitled Document (http://www.rovertracks.com)

i thought a no spin was a detroit (soft)locker?

cheers phil

extreme6.5
8th January 2009, 03:57 PM
Thanks Phil, I'll do that.
Yep they are the same thing I'm told, just one comes in it's own hemisphere case and the other doesn't, mechanically identical otherwise...got this info off www.locked-drive.com.au (http://www.locked-drive.com.au):)

discowhite
8th January 2009, 04:58 PM
no spin, ahh them things! i dont think there is one available for the rover diff... stick with the detroit locker, much better option. mines been brilliant.
little bro landed a detroit from revor for something like 700? i think.

cheers phil

extreme6.5
8th January 2009, 05:07 PM
Just tried (twice)emailing keith@rovertracks.com but it comes back with a failed delivery message....??:(

cartm58
8th January 2009, 05:33 PM
YOur going to be paying GST and import duties to customs on that combination, if your going to get them ship them couple months apart, even if you ship them in different weeks customs will lump the import together and apply duties.

I know this as that's what happened to me in 08 when l imported 2 detroit tru tracks from Keith added couple extra hundred dollars on the deal, plus the Aus to USA dollar conversion.

extreme6.5
8th January 2009, 05:50 PM
Good call, thanks for that...It used to be under $1000- they let stuff through without gst and duty, not sure if that's still the same:D

discowhite
8th January 2009, 06:44 PM
yep still under $1000. try sending keith (revor) a pm on here.

cheers phil

extreme6.5
8th January 2009, 09:59 PM
Thanks Phil,
I've done exactly that, starting to get just a little excited now,been wanting lockers for a while.....

Cheers:D

justinc
8th January 2009, 10:05 PM
Just to make you even MORE excited, the Detroit for the Sals takes about 55 minutes to fit at the most. I just did another one last week and it is a great result. I'll dig out the part number if you like.

JC

extreme6.5
8th January 2009, 10:46 PM
55 mins hey....i should mention that i put a steel pole up on the deck/patio the other day, was quite a process...had to cut a hole in the deck and bolt it all up down below, at the top i was swinging off a ladder and took it through the eave and bolted to roof rafter...stood back proudly and went to walk off with the ladder....but....I'd installed the pole THROUGH the middle of the ladder:eek:, had to drill out the ladder pop rivets and pull it apart to move it!!
And, I've never been inside a diff before, but am looking forward to doing it...will be supremely happy if i get it done in less than a day!!
If anyone knows of a thread on any site with diy pictures etc for a detroit locker instal I'd appreciate the info:D

extreme6.5
8th January 2009, 10:48 PM
PS...part number would be great, thanks JC.:)

discowhite
9th January 2009, 07:02 AM
ive never done a sals in a rover b4 but i assume they are the same setup as any BTR commodore diff?

drain oil, remove axles, remover rear cover, remover carrier bearing caps and note where the shims came from(thickness and side to side), remover carrier, swap CW to new detroit and refit..

as for the front end i didnt pull the whole hub assy apart, i removed the wheels and unbolted the swivels to get the center out.

cheers phil

justinc
9th January 2009, 07:10 AM
ive never done a sals in a rover b4 but i assume they are the same setup as any BTR commodore diff?

drain oil, remove axles, remover rear cover, remover carrier bearing caps and note where the shims came from(thickness and side to side), remover carrier, swap CW to new detroit and refit..

as for the front end i didnt pull the whole hub assy apart, i removed the wheels and unbolted the swivels to get the center out.

cheers phil

Correct Phil, except the Sals Nospin is a drop in insert, removing and discarding the original 4 pin set up. That is why it only takes a short time to do.

JC

rick130
9th January 2009, 08:45 AM
Salisbury part # should be 225SL-36

Leo109
9th January 2009, 10:07 AM
Just to make you even MORE excited, the Detroit for the Sals takes about 55 minutes to fit at the most. I just did another one last week and it is a great result. I'll dig out the part number if you like.

JC
Now, now, JC - 55 min perhaps for "The Southern Hemisphere's Leading..." with hoist, air tools and 50+ years of experience (and "The Southern Hemisphere's Leading Offsider" doing a bit of the unbolting and bolting up for you...). Most of us mere mortals would take that long to get the back axle up onto stands and remove the wheels and hub bolts with hand tools.

But, Extreme, having witnessed the aforementioned 55 min process, I can vouch that it's far easier than I'd ever imagined (also having never seen the inards of a diff 'in the flesh (metal?)' before.

JC, are you going to mention that little bit of "metal sculpture" work required, or is that a "trade secret" for that I will now be severely punished for mentioning??

Ian

weeds
9th January 2009, 10:20 AM
Now, now, JC - 55 min perhaps for "The Southern Hemisphere's Leading..." with hoist, air tools and 50+ years of experience


JC you don't look a day over 30;)

rovercare
9th January 2009, 12:52 PM
JC you don't look a day over 30;)

Thay just weren't easy years:D

extreme6.5
9th January 2009, 12:55 PM
Fellas, thanks for taking the time to help, much appreciated.
Contacted Kevin at Rovertracks in US, he emailed back overnight with cost and freight.He also advised what I needed to look for on ebay to maybe find a bargain so I can't recommend him enough, no sales pitch there he is just happy to help.
Anyway, I was a bit out on my original cost estimate.
Bottom line is I can land a detroit rear and tru track front via Kevin for $1780- assuming exchange rate .70 and no gst/duty.
Locked drive systems in NSW quoted a pretty good price I reckon at $2100- landed in WA.
Opposite lock in my home town south west WA quoted me $1700- just for the detroit rear(plus minimum $600- fitting)....
Pretty good value I reckon, I can't afford ARB front and rear(about $4k fitted) and like the idea of the detroit and tru track anyway.
More excited by the minute....guessing the fun will go out of it a couple of hours into the instal...:D

justinc
9th January 2009, 01:36 PM
Fellas, thanks for taking the time to help, much appreciated.
Contacted Kevin at Rovertracks in US, he emailed back overnight with cost and freight.He also advised what I needed to look for on ebay to maybe find a bargain so I can't recommend him enough, no sales pitch there he is just happy to help.
Anyway, I was a bit out on my original cost estimate.
Bottom line is I can land a detroit rear and tru track front via Kevin for $1780- assuming exchange rate .70 and no gst/duty.
Locked drive systems in NSW quoted a pretty good price I reckon at $2100- landed in WA.
Opposite lock in my home town south west WA quoted me $1700- just for the detroit rear(plus minimum $600- fitting)....
Pretty good value I reckon, I can't afford ARB front and rear(about $4k fitted) and like the idea of the detroit and tru track anyway.
More excited by the minute....guessing the fun will go out of it a couple of hours into the instal...:D


Hmmm, I think I'll go and open up a diff accessory fitting shop, I can squeeze 6 or 7 of these jobs into a day:):D:D

JC

justinc
9th January 2009, 01:37 PM
Salisbury part # should be 225SL-36

Correct, Thanks Rick, I haven't got round to looking it up yet anyway.

JC

discologist
9th January 2009, 03:16 PM
hi guys ,what your thoughs on maxidrive diffs??im possibly picking up a whole maxi rear end complete for my disco and was wondering how they rate with the other alternatives(im running 35' tyres:D at the moment)...cheers,Ramon.

extreme6.5
9th January 2009, 04:20 PM
From all comment on this and other forums they are extremely well regarded but not manufactured any more(the locker that is).
I spoke with a bloke early this week who has a brand new maxidrive locker setup on the shelf inc axles for a defender,wants $4400- for it.Then it's still got to be fitted....too much for me...:o

101 Ron
9th January 2009, 06:13 PM
For my 101 Landrover I had a Detroit Lock Imported Via a dealer from the US.
The 101 runs a Salisbury similar to the defender and series three etc.
SL on the part number that you use to order the lock means it is the latest series and a Solflocker.
The only difference between a no spin and a detroit locker is a play on words.
A no spin is a detroit locker supplied without the crown wheel carrier.
With a 8HA salisbury you in fact get a (play on words) no spin as the salisbury crown wheel carrier is up to the job and a modified item doesnt need to be supplied.
The detroit locker is very easy to fit in a few hours and works well.
The only draw back is extra drive line free play.

extreme6.5
9th January 2009, 09:51 PM
Yep,I'm with you Ron that's the way it was told to me also.....they are the same thing;)

justinc
9th January 2009, 10:11 PM
Correct about the increase in free play Ron, as if my LT95 didn't have enough lash in the first place:p


JC

4wd4fun
14th January 2009, 06:44 PM
Thinking of installing a Detroit no spin rear and truetrac locker front in my D1 and would like to now what the detroit locker is like to drive on in every day use Carparks in city and general street driving. Would it also load axles up more around town.
Which one should i install first as they will probable be around 6 months or more apart with insterlation to keep SHMBO happy with cost.
Any feed back will be appreciated. (only other opption Air Lockers but $ verses capability and drivability is also in consideration):)

Chucaro
14th January 2009, 07:12 PM
The new Detroit are very good and you can use them in your every day vehicle.
I would fit a Detroit lockers together with Keith's axels like in my RR and then the Truetrac at the front.
Send Revor (Keith) a PM and ask him if he can quote for the gear.
I am very impressed with the axels
Cheers

101 Ron
14th January 2009, 07:19 PM
On a Landrover with constant 4WD, the effects of a Detroit locker on road are much reduced as the front diff is taking some of the drive too.
The biggest thing you will notice is a bit more drive line back lash.
I have noticed no difference with tyre wear ( I think it has improved)
The fact is if you put another driver other than yourself in the vehicle they wouldnt notice any thing different about the vehicle.
As a regular driver you may notice some differences, but nothing too bad.
The times you notice the detroit is when it works on a hard road giving you extra grip if a wheel wants to spin on a bit of greasey bituimen on a round about.
On a muddy road there are no effects other than extra grip.
The detroit is excellant in mud and snow locking and unlocking the axles without affecting steering at all like manual locking diffs.
Manual locking diffs are better for rock work as they are activated before you need them and the strain of locking and unlocking in the middle of a rock shelf is avoided.

extreme6.5
27th January 2009, 04:55 PM
For anyone looking at detroit lockers....
Just ordered a detroit locker/no spin for the rear(2001 defender) through Locked Drive Systems in NSW.
The Aussie $ at around 65c meant to get one through Revor/Keith out of the US was going to cost A$1000- landed.
Locked Drive Systems cost was $795- plus $25- freight (which is $1000- less than what my local 4wd store quoted me.)
I found them very helpful.(as was Revor/Keith).
Now for the (55minute...) install:eek:

djam1
27th January 2009, 05:12 PM
I have run a Detroit in my Salisbury for about 2 years now they are excellent but do add backlash to a drive train that already has an abundance.
You would be wise to run Maxi Axles remember if you break an axle you usually take the Detroit with it.
I twisted a new set of axles in 3 months but my original axles never showed signs of stress ??

hook
27th January 2009, 06:58 PM
For anyone looking at detroit lockers....
Just ordered a detroit locker/no spin for the rear(2001 defender) through Locked Drive Systems in NSW.
The Aussie $ at around 65c meant to get one through Revor/Keith out of the US was going to cost A$1000- landed.
Locked Drive Systems cost was $795- plus $25- freight (which is $1000- less than what my local 4wd store quoted me.)
I found them very helpful.(as was Revor/Keith).
Now for the (55minute...) install:eek:


55 minutes are up.:D

justinc
27th January 2009, 07:10 PM
For anyone looking at detroit lockers....
Just ordered a detroit locker/no spin for the rear(2001 defender) through Locked Drive Systems in NSW.
The Aussie $ at around 65c meant to get one through Revor/Keith out of the US was going to cost A$1000- landed.
Locked Drive Systems cost was $795- plus $25- freight (which is $1000- less than what my local 4wd store quoted me.)
I found them very helpful.(as was Revor/Keith).
Now for the (55minute...) install:eek:

Hi Extreme6.5,

Give me a call when you are about to do the job, 0408 995 635, it would be easier if I talked you through the process of a slight mod to the carrier housing with a Die grinder...:)

JC

extreme6.5
27th January 2009, 09:10 PM
Thanks JC, appreciate you taking the time to help and will jump on the phone once I'm into it
Cheers
:)

extreme6.5
6th February 2009, 08:57 PM
Well I've just got hold of the rave2 cdrom which I figured would help me in getting the rear diff out, apart and back together again.
Wouldn't you know it though, there are overhaul instructions for every bit of a td5 except the rear diff....:(
Instructions for the 300tdi rear diff are there though:D, so my question is...

Is the 300tdi rear diff the same as the td5?;)

Thanks in advance

101 Ron
6th February 2009, 09:42 PM
The salisbury diff as far as I know are the same from a TDI to aTD5.
I think in 2002 on wards ,landrover did a silly move and used the 4 pinion rover diff.

cockie55
6th February 2009, 10:11 PM
DROP KEITH A LINE & GIVE THINGS LIKE THIS A WIDE BERTH

DETROIT TRUETRAC LIMITED SLIP - LAND ROVER DISCOVERY - eBay Axle Parts, Transmission, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 12-Feb-09 11:52:06 AEDST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DETROIT-TRUETRAC-LIMITED-SLIP-LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY_W0QQitemZ200305483083QQcmdZViewItemQQptZ AU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item200305483083&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318)

extreme6.5
13th February 2009, 12:06 PM
Well, the no spin has arrived, sitting on my bench.:D
I'm planning to have a go at the instal over the weekend...I even cancelled a fishing trip:(
Can I get away doing it with the housing in place?
I don't have access to a hoist, she'll be on chassis stands.
Thoughts/opinions please

2stroke
13th February 2009, 09:05 PM
You can do it with the housing in place but do you have anything to spread the housing? The carrier should have 5 thou' bearing preload.

djam1
13th February 2009, 09:10 PM
2 x tyre levers will get the centre out just use a brass or rubber hammer to get it back in.
Be warned its heavy

extreme6.5
13th February 2009, 09:23 PM
Thanks fellas, I'll give it a go tomorrow.

101 Ron
13th February 2009, 09:46 PM
Other people may have other ideas and thats fine with me.
This is what I did to install my detroit locker to my 101 landy Salisbury diff.
First I made up out of steel I had kicking around a frame which spreads the diff housing apart using the large holes in the casting on the diff centre.
That's what the holes in the casting are for........it is to spread the housing a little.
A old car jack supplied the muscle for the frame to spread the housing slightly.
........... Now you do not have to do this , but the diff housing spreader is the correct way and makes things easier to put together.
1 drain diff oil
2 remove hub drive flanges.
3 remove drive axles from axle tubes
4 remove diff centre cover plate.
5 centre pop both castings which are the diff centre carrier bearing caps, so you Know exactly which way they go and from what side.
6 do a general inspection of the diff noting the condition of the crown wheel and pinion, bearings and check back lash.
7 I recommend the pinion and crown wheel be bearing blued and note the crown wheel and pinion contact pattern
8 Undo the carrier bearing caps evenly ( four big bolts)
9 place tension on the frame or spreader you have made with the jack in the middle of it and the crown wheel and carrier should fall out.....place something soft under the diff to catch it.
If not using a diff housing spreader......use a bar or large screw driver , soft hammer etc to pop the crown wheel and carrier out.
10 give the whole thing a clean up and set your self up on the bench.
11 this is from memory so I may not be totally correct...........evenly undo the bolts holding on the crown wheel to the carrier as the crown wheel must be removed to fit the locker.
12 the carrier is in to halves......undo the bolts evenly and split the carrier using centre pop marks so you know exactly the way it goes together again.
13 remove the original side gears and smaller planet gears with the steel round bars join together as one piece by a ring which they run on.
14 fit the detroit locker in one half of the carrier taking note of the instructions supplied by the detroit locker (may have to reuse or replace original side gear washers and measure one or two things to check.
15 don't release the the through bolt and nuts holding the locker together as there is alot of spring pressure behind it until the two halves of the carrier are bolted back together .
Check instructions supplied and fit ,,....bolt carrier halves together (I use loctite on all diff bolts)
16 Torque all diff bolts evenly to Landrover specs
17 refit crown wheel and torque to specs.
18 Using the diff housing spreader spread the diff housing apart slightly so the carrier bearings and carrier can be refitted( carrier bearings must go back in the side they came off as well as the bearing caps)
If you do not have a diff housing spreader or made one the other option is to try and fit the carrier in the diff housing by carefully knocking (soft hammer)and levering it into place.
I suspect this can be made easier by getting a die grinder with a cutter( not stone) and put small chamfers on the diff housing casting to make this easier.
Evenly tighten the carrier bearing caps and this will push the rest of the carrier home in it bearings(be careful)
Torque carrier cap bolts.( clean out metal chips from die grinder)
Blue crown wheel and check gear mesh pattern ( if you have not changed the bearings and every thing is correct it should be the same as before.
Check pinion backlash....should be the same as before or to makers specs.
19 refit axles to tubes and drive flanges.
20 test operation of the locker by hand by spinning the tail shaft and wheels.
21 refit diff cover plate and add the normal oil you use.
22 note for the first few Ks the locker will be lazy to unlock until it frees up a bit.
After a month or two it will be perfect.
I hope this helps.
May be some one can add to this or find a miss take as it is from memery from a few years ago.
NOTE.......if you break a axle witha detroit locker you break the locker as well.
Recommend stronger axles that standard be fitted as any locker by nature places more strain on the axles as fully engine torque can be transmitted through one axle instead of two.
RON
PS if you have all the gear in place and have rattle guns etc it is possible to do the whole job very quickly.

extreme6.5
13th February 2009, 10:01 PM
Thanks Ron for taking the time to post such a detailed thread, I've never been inside a diff before so that is a great help and much appreciated.:D
I havn't got a spreader so will see how I go and make one up if it gets to be too much of a struggle,I'm looking forward to having a go at it...

revor
14th February 2009, 06:11 AM
If you don't have a spreader you can try this if you are careful.

Use a torch to heat the surface where the diff cover bolts on it will take about 5 minutes witha propane torch but the metal will expand and the diff will come out easily.
Do the same to put it back in.

It works!
But:
Then strip nekkid and burn your clothes, go directly to the shower, clean up and put new ones on before you see the wife.

This last step can be ommitted if you aren't married.

rick130
14th February 2009, 07:32 AM
<snip>
But:
Then strip nekkid and burn your clothes, go directly to the shower, clean up and put new ones on before you see the wife.

This last step can be ommitted if you aren't married.

ROTFLMAO :Rolling:

How bloody true :D

FWIW Mal Storey/Maxi Drive made a spreader that worked by compressing the case vertically (which expands it horizontally).
Neat trick.

extreme6.5
14th February 2009, 02:59 PM
Help!!Anyone?
I have the axles out, housing cover off, bearing carriers bolts out bearing carriers off, all smooth sailing...but I've had a bit of a go with a short pry bar to drop the diff out and it's not coming.
I havn't jacked the 110 up at all so it's sitting on it's wheels still, would it make any difference if I sat the axle housing or chassis on stands?
Or is it just tight and I may need a spreader, or some heat(thanks Keith) or maybe a bit more effort with the bar?
Thanks;)

extreme6.5
14th February 2009, 03:14 PM
Got it !!Popped right:D out with a lever on either side

101 Ron
14th February 2009, 03:47 PM
The trick is to get it back in !

Scouse
14th February 2009, 11:19 PM
DROP KEITH A LINE & GIVE THINGS LIKE THIS A WIDE BERTH

DETROIT TRUETRAC LIMITED SLIP - LAND ROVER DISCOVERY - eBay Axle Parts, Transmission, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 12-Feb-09 11:52:06 AEDST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DETROIT-TRUETRAC-LIMITED-SLIP-LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY_W0QQitemZ200305483083QQcmdZViewItemQQptZ AU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item200305483083&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318)Is there a reason for this warning (apart from the $$)?

I know the seller & he has helped quite a few members on here out with various transmission problems.

extreme6.5
15th February 2009, 02:33 PM
It's in!!
it works!!:D
Took her for a test run this morn on the beach, went up one short sharp dune with a 90 degree turn half way up, it's only about 30m from one side to the other, best challenge close to home.
On this dune-
-when my TC was working there was always a bit of wheel slip, always got over but needed to have your mind on the job and hit the throttle at the right point
-Without TC(it stopped working) I needed a bit of a run up and didn't always make it
-With the locker in this morning she went over with no fuss, low speed, no throttle increase required, fantastic....

The total cost with gasket goo, loctite etc was about $950-.
An ARB locker fitted was around $2500-.

There's a few threads on various sites suggesting detroits/no spins are noisy, harsh, cause wheel hop etc.
I can only think these are old experiences and not relevant to the new "soflocker" models.
I did a few full wheel lock turns on bitumen, low speed, windows down...couldn't even hear the locker "clicking" on disengagement, let alone any scuffing or wheel hop
There was absolutely no change on sealed surface from what it was b4 the locker went in, wouldn't know it was there...if anything the driveline feels a little smoother

As for the install, I'd encourage anyone with the Salisbury diff to have a go, it's straightforward...I'm a banker and spend my days behind a desk,if I can do it, pretty much anyone can...
I'd say it's about a 3hr job for the average bunny, if you have a mate on hand and arn't running off to the shop for loctite/gasket goo etc.If you are like me, doing your first one and have to run back and forth a bit, constantly refer to instructions :eek:and AULRO threads and make a phone call or two, it may take you the day, worst case....
Finally, thanks to all who gave me advice on this thread,particularly "Justinc" who was good enough to help out over the phone with some invaluable tips.
If there's anyone considering doing this and wants info PM me and I'll help if I can...
I'm now saving up for the trutrac up front! :D:D:D