Perkins 4.182 and a 10 Speed in a Series 3

[maca]

Hi all.

I have been lurking around for a bit over a year now and haven't said or done much (some people may call this stalking), so I thought it was time to post a couple of pics of my current project.

http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/my_baby.JPG
http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/IMG_1778-installed_engine.JPG

Its a 1977 LandRover Series 3 that has been fitted with a Perkins 4.182 (Mazda HA), that was mated to the standard gearbox.
For a while I have wanted to fit a different gearbox, so after a few calls to Rolin Imports (Gearboxes-Rolin Automotive Imports. (http://www.japparts.com.au/products/gearboxes.html)) I had a shiny SL 10 speed box (5 speed with lay shaft splitter) out of a Mazda T3500.
I chose this gearbox as in the T3500 it was mated to the Mazda HA engine so should be an easy conversion.

The car has been sitting for the last 2 years so its not in pristine condition and will need a fair bit of body work.

I started by pulling the wings off and giving it a bit of a touch up with a pressure washer.

http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/IMG_0038-wingless.JPG

Then pulling the engine and gearbox.

http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/P3240007-wingless_engineless.JPG

As the firewall and floor will need to be significantly modified to suit the far larger gearbox and remote mounted transfer case I also decided to completely strip back the front part of the body.

http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/P1100115-no_wings_engine_screen_or_doors.JPG
http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/P1110131-something_is_missing.JPG

The new gearbox temporally mated to the engine.

http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/P1040114-engine_and_box.JPG

In the picture you can see that the starter is mounted from the gearbox side of the flywheel, and also the bell housing is substantially larger than the Series equivalent.
It is also only a RWD gear box so I intend to use a standard Series 3 transfer box. I purchased a transfer box that had been modified to use a jack shaft input from Graham Filer at Rockhampton LandRover and Mechanical (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/queensland/26438-rockhampton-landrover-mechanical.html). I will mount this behind the chassis member behind the gearbox and will run a two piece prop shaft to the front diff and a baby single piece shaft down to the rear diff.

Well at least that's the plans.

[JDNSW]

Sounds like a very interesting project. I look forward to further progress reports.

john

[Jimmy]

yep. I'm looking forward to this one as it progresses.

Jim

[rangieman]

Looking good:D , one thing you need to do well your at it is bolt a turbo on and it will fly ;)

[Bigbjorn]

I think you are going to have a lot of surplus low gears for light vehicle use. This is the nature of truck range change gearboxes.

[maca]

The next update:

I put the engine and gearbox back in the car so I could check the new gearbox clearances, start taking the measurements for the gearbox mounts, and see how much the firewall needs to be trimmed up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

As it turns out the firewall needs a lot of trimming, the cross member under the bell housing may also need a bit of modification.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

The firewall is currently at the sandblasters, when it comes back I will give it a quick touch of primer and start repairing the rust and will cut out the panel above the bell housing.

After looking at some of the other projects on the forum I got jealous and wanted mine to look as pretty as theirs. So in my stupidity I started pulling more body panels off, with the plan being to take it back to bare chassis and paint every thing.
So far I have stripped it all back except for the tub.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

But I found some more cancer:(.
(besides the stuff in the firewall, front door tops, bottom of front doors, pretty much all of the rear doors, the bottom of the barn door etc...)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

This got me thinking (which is always a bad sign), I wouldn't mind being able to go roofless occasionally.
So my body options are:
Replace the 5 Door body with a 3 Door one.
or
Cut and brace the B pillars, and cut the top off the rear passenger doors and rear barn door.

Has anyone done a 5 door roofless modification before?
The 3 door conversion would be better if I could find a body in good condition, but will require mod plates and the associated Queensland Transport stab your self in the face with a fork run around.
The hardest thing I see about the 5 door modification is repairing the rust already present in the B and C pillars.

I also came across some brand new racing seats that I picked up for $100 for the both of them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

So I am planning to put these in instead of the standard seats which would of required some upholstery work anyway.

I also picked up some International (International Paint (http://www.international-pc.com/Pages/default.aspx)) Interfine 629 (http://www.international-pc.com/MPYAPCPCProductDatasheets/2100+P+eng+A4.pdf and http://www.international-pc.com/MPYAPCPCProductDatasheets/2099+P+eng+A4.pdf) and Interprime 198 (http://www.international-pc.com/MPYAPCPCProductDatasheets/2348+P+eng+A4.pdf).

Ive got two drums of green and a single drum of white 629 (approx 5lrts each), as well as a 10 ltr drum of 198.
I just now need to get some etch and all the other associated gear (respirator and guns).
I will also need to figure out how to do this painting thing, after a bit of a search I found this gem: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/19506-paint-your-land-rover.html (some off the links don't work).

Unfortunately after reading some of the linked pages I found out the paint I scored is two part linear polyurethane paint which is pretty dangerous (not as bad as Iso-cyanates two part paints however) and is a pain in the **** to paint with if you don't know what your doing (that means me).
So to say the least this will be an "interesting" experience.

I am also considering getting some sandblasting gear to help/speed up the panel preparation. Has anyone had any experience with doing this them selves? Can you offer any advice?

[maca]

I think you are going to have a lot of surplus low gears for light vehicle use. This is the nature of truck range change gearboxes.

Don't stress I have already had a bit of a look.
Yes first in the Mazda box will be a LOT lower that the first in the series, but If I just leave the splitter in high the gear spread isn't too bad.

Below are the gear ratios: (sorry about the pic but I couldn't get the text to display correctly)
http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/s3_gear_ratios.JPG

The best thing about this setup will be the decreased engine RPM while at highway speeds.

[mcrover]

You could have a lot of fun with some 4.11 diffs to bring the ratios back to normal car type OD gearing :D

This would give you a great range of low range 4wd gearing + great Hwy performance.:D

Im with Rangieman, look at throwing a small Turbo on to give it just a little more pull :D

This would be great in a county with coils :o

Good luck with it and keep the updates coming

[Tank]

The next update:

I put the engine and gearbox back in the car so I could check the new gearbox clearances, start taking the measurements for the gearbox mounts, and see how much the firewall needs to be trimmed up.

http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/P1170009-engine_test_install.JPG

As it turns out the firewall needs a lot of trimming, the cross member under the bell housing may also need a bit of modification.

http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/P1180013-firewall_cutting_required.JPG

The firewall is currently at the sandblasters, when it comes back I will give it a quick touch of primer and start repairing the rust and will cut out the panel above the bell housing.

After looking at some of the other projects on the forum I got jealous and wanted mine to look as pretty as theirs. So in my stupidity I started pulling more body panels off, with the plan being to take it back to bare chassis and paint every thing.
So far I have stripped it all back except for the tub.

http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/P1180018-only_the_tub_left.JPG

But I found some more cancer:(.
(besides the stuff in the firewall, front door tops, bottom of front doors, pretty much all of the rear doors, the bottom of the barn door etc...)

http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/P1180012-rust_in_b_pillar.JPG
http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/P1180011-rust_in_c_pillar.JPG

This got me thinking (which is always a bad sign), I wouldn't mind being able to go roofless occasionally.
So my body options are:
Replace the 5 Door body with a 3 Door one.
or
Cut and brace the B pillars, and cut the top off the rear passenger doors and rear barn door.

Has anyone done a 5 door roofless modification before?
The 3 door conversion would be better if I could find a body in good condition, but will require mod plates and the associated Queensland Transport stab your self in the face with a fork run around.
The hardest thing I see about the 5 door modification is repairing the rust already present in the B and C pillars.

I also came across some brand new racing seats that I picked up for $100 for the both of them.
http://www.miec.net/personal/aulro/s3/P1180016-new_seats.JPG

So I am planning to put these in instead of the standard seats which would of required some upholstery work anyway.

I also picked up some International (International Paint (http://www.international-pc.com/Pages/default.aspx)) Interfine 629 (http://www.international-pc.com/MPYAPCPCProductDatasheets/2100+P+eng+A4.pdf and http://www.international-pc.com/MPYAPCPCProductDatasheets/2099+P+eng+A4.pdf) and Interprime 198 (http://www.international-pc.com/MPYAPCPCProductDatasheets/2348+P+eng+A4.pdf).

Ive got two drums of green and a single drum of white 629 (approx 5lrts each), as well as a 10 ltr drum of 198.
I just now need to get some etch and all the other associated gear (respirator and guns).
I will also need to figure out how to do this painting thing, after a bit of a search I found this gem: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/19506-paint-your-land-rover.html (some off the links don't work).

Unfortunately after reading some of the linked pages I found out the paint I scored is two part linear polyurethane paint which is pretty dangerous (not as bad as Iso-cyanates two part paints however) and is a pain in the **** to paint with if you don't know what your doing (that means me).
So to say the least this will be an "interesting" experience.

I am also considering getting some sandblasting gear to help/speed up the panel preparation. Has anyone had any experience with doing this them selves? Can you offer any advice?
Don't sandblast alloy panels, it will peen the metal out of shape and can work harden them, there are other forms of blasting, like soda or bead, I would talk to an experienced sandblaster about the best method to use for alloy panels, Regards Frank.

[THE BONESHAKER]

Hi,
Been lurking a while. Very interested in the progress
I have a fully imported ex british RAF SIIA with a galvanised 1 tonne chassis and a perkins 4-182 bolted to the standard IIA box. It seems like it has a top speed of about 80km/h. It seems a big length to go to putting the T3500 box in. I'm wondering if anyone has played with diff ratios or tyre sizes to give a perkins powered landy better highway speeds. I can appreciate that the T3500 box would be incredibly strong and should you turbo it it would definitely handle the power. Mind you I would fit a stage1 front axle assemble to stop it and to have cv axles for strength.
Is the mazda HA motor absolutely identical to the Perkins 4-182? I am looking for a workshop manual, can anyone help steer me in the right direction?
Cheers, Peter

[123rover50]

I put 4 182 in my wifes old 2 door RRc many years ago, then when she got carpel tunnel in her wrist and couldnt stir the pot with ease, I put in the Borg Warner 35 conversion. It went well, could do 100 kays or more when wound up.
The engine I bought was out of a Mazda T3000, I think or was it the E 3000. Such a long time ago I forget. But which ever it was it was identicle to the 4 182 Perkins . I have the workshop manual for the Perkins still, and the old engine, and some parts boxes. Some are branded Perkins and some Mazda.
I had to put a used replacement engine it whan it developed a coolant leak into the oil. I suspected past the liners, not much time then to pull it down so bought another.
I have been meaning to do something with this engine,. Waiting for an adaptor kit to come up, but I should really look at it first to see it it is any good.

Didiman

[123rover50]

Reading your post again, the Mazda T 3500 engine is not the Perkins 4-182, so I doubt if the gearbox from the 3500 will fit the 3000.

Didiman

[123rover50]

I wonder what happened to this project.
Looked interesting.