TD5 Disco 2 Wont Start

[foss]

Hi guys
Im hoping someone can be of help.
4 weeks ago I renewed the injector harness-no oil getting to the ecu but did it anyway before it got there & I renewed the oil pump bolt that can often fail.The car ran perfectly for a week & covered about 400 miles over christmas.No issues up til now & no excessive fuel consumption.
But for the sake of it, heres my list of attempts to fix the problem to no avail...

Symptom-started from cold 3 weeks ago, got 100 yards up the road, engine cut out as if run out of fuel.

Attempts-
-Turned engine over, cranked but would fire only for a second & conk out.
-Bled system by turning key & waiting several times according to manual & several landy forums & workshop procedure, still wouldnt fire.air could be heard being purged from the system & then the hum of the pump running which then stopped after a couple of minutes.I tried this for three days & charged battery twice while doing so.
-Tried easy start in the inlet manifold, ran on that but still wouldnt run after it had burnt that off.
-Tried a bump start-still nothing
-removed fuel filter, turned key to run pump, diesel was being pumped from filter head so assumed pump working.
-tested glow plugs-all 4 knackered so have renewed-still wont start
-removed inlet & outlet pipes to fuel pressure reg,diesel present in both so assuming diesel is getting to injectors & coming out the return pipe back to the fuel tank.
-fuel pressure reg not leaking & removed it to check gauze filter inside, all good-replaced gasket
-also checked fuel cooler-all good
-replaced injector washers
-replaced air flow meter
-cleaned & tested crank sensor
-ECU clear of oil
-new fuel pump
-new air bleed valve on filter head
-no leaks in fuel lines
-diagnostic equip not giving any fault codes

The old fuel pump could be heard humming for about 4 minutes which is far longer than normal & couldnt be heard purging air-the new pump does the same.
Does anyone think its worth sending the ECU off for testing?
Or am I now left with probably a cracked head?
I am tomorrow flushing the inj loom from rocker box to ECU with meths.
Any further ideas greatly received
thanks
Foss
____________

[dmdigital]

Check there's not a short on the water sensor wires at the fuel filter (if its connected some D2's didn't have this). This will just make it crank over.

Check the battery voltage as it has to be above 11.5V to start (from memory)

Could also be an issue with the crank sensor.

The fact there's no faults logged would suggest its not sensor related. I'd be checking the fuel system again. Also did you unplug the ECU when you did the harness, the plugs may not be seated properly.

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will jump in soon.

[Redback]

I'd say it's got air in the system, is the pump sreaming when you turn the ignition on?? if so that is a sign of air in the system.

Check the fuel filter is sealing properly and any other places it can suck in air, just because there's no fuel leaking from the systems doesn't mean there isn't a leak somewhere, remember it's sucking in air not pumping fuel out.

Baz.

[BilboBoggles]

Sorry no likely ideas, Might be worth checking the earth points on the ECU. I've also had a poor start condition due to a noisey starter motor solenoid, I suspect the contacts were arcing and interfering with the ECU.

p.s Geez that's an impressive list of things to have checked!

[Psimpson7]

The fact it ran on easy start would point to the fact that it could be fuel related.

Do you definetley have all the fuel pipes on in the correct order on the pump after you changed it?

[revor]

Well that's two.....

I hope your solution is easier than mine has been! I'll be watching!

[slug_burner]

Isn't there a wire that gets rubbed as it makes its way around the motor that then shorts to the motor? Someone more knowledgeable will assist to identify the actual wire you need to check or rule it out for the correct reasons.

[foss]

Thanks for all the advise guys...Ive spoken to an LR Master Tech & he's pointed me in the direction of the engine-ecu harness itself which is very likely to be contaminated with oil from the injector harness leak & for the sake of another £200 after all the expense already Im going to go with it.Weve also sent the ECU off for testing.There is definately no air in the system now.
The harness is being fitted by my local LR dealer as my mechanic has trial & errored everything to no avail which I dont really expect from someone who is supposed to know what he's doing, so fingers crossed.The guy rubbished the idea of the harness when I & another mechanic I know suggested it but Ive spoken to LR themselves in UK & they have told me they have changed countless harnesses-especially after everything else we have done already!
Ill keep you all posted on the outcome...
thanks again
foss

[foss]

this is a reply to a guy with the same issue in the UK...


Hi mate
I sent it to Gary Wood @ TD5 Alive, google it & you can get contact details off their site.
My ECU was only sending a signal to Inj 3, not 1,2,4 & 5!! The ECU was spiked by the oil in the main harness.The car passed an injector click test on Autologic too, so that obviously isnt always a reliable route.
I sent it off on a friday, he called me Monday & I had it back Tuesday morning-top service.
Basically, he takes an ECU he has already repaired & tested & knows is 100%.
Then he takes off the Alarm/Immobiliser & injector codes off your ECU & transfers them on to the reconned ECU,basically cloning the knackered one.
It was £80 for the initial test & £150 for the replacement ECU.
I checked my old engine-ecu harness when it was taken off-oil in all ends of the cables, even to starter motor connection.
Plugged the whole lot in & it started like it was a new car-I barely have to turn the key, no ****!
My mechanic reckons its running on about 90% of the power I had before it broke down,sometimes its a bit like trying to drive in 4th gear at 30mph if you know what I mean, but Ive found thats normally on a hill when Im not giving it enough throttle; but to be honest mine was never that quick & its often the case if you have black top injectors rather than the later green top ones that when youve also changed the injector washers, the power drops slightly & "should" return after a few hundred miles.Ive driven it all weekend & done 200 miles since yesterday morning.No misses & starts on the button.Went off road today & coped with everything I threw at it as it used to.
Pleased its all sorted-well til the next thing goes wrong!
Let me know how you get on
Foss

[Redback]

Now that's pretty good service and a great outcome all round.

Baz.