Looking at a 1965 model in a day or so.

[subasurf]

Well, as you can tell, I'm new here. Don't own a LR yet, but I desperetly want one.

There's a cheap 65 Series IIa for sale for about 500 near where I live. Recon motor apparently and it runs. Unlicensed though, but that's no biggie. I'm keen to get it but I have NO idea what to look for in terms of things that should stop me from getting it.
All the cars I've ever bought have been fairly new. I want an old Series Rover to throw my swag in the back and head out into the bush with my dog. It doesn't have to be pretty, but I do want it to be some what reliable...even if if I need to put in some hours of labor.

My understanding is that the chassis is the thing to really inspect on an old Land Rover. What should I be looking for specifically? What are some common problems with an old farm beaten Series II? Any tips? I know at only 500 dollars I should just bite the bullet and take the "risk" but still...I don't want to be a fool.

Any help would be great. Cheers chaps. Happy rovering.

[JDNSW]

The things to really be wary of are significant rust in the chassis and the bulkhead (the structure that the doors are swung on). Places to look in particular are the rear cross member, where outriggers attach to the chassis, spring hangers, and, on the bulkhead, particularly around the vents and just below the windscreen.

A cheap vehicle of this age can be expected to have multiple places to spend money, but some of the things to look at are:-

Brakes - expect to have to replace all wheel and master cylinders, possibly linings. Starts to get expensive if you have to start replacing drums and backing plate adjusters.

Radiator - if it leaks, repairs/replacement is probably going to be more than you paid for the vehicle.

Prop shafts, U-joints. U-joints are cheap to replace, splined sliding joints are not. minor leaks from transfer case and diffs are normal, and seals are cheap and easy to replace.

Gearbox is robust and you shoould not have problems, but make sure if possible that all gears work. There is synchromesh only on 3 &4.

Clutch master and slave cylinders - expect to replace or overhaul them.

Windscreen wiper motors. Make sure they are present and work - replacements tend to be expensive.

Steering wheel - if possible should be in reasonable condition; replacements are like hen's teeth.

Lights are not a major problem - available and not too expensive. The wiring can be a problem if in poor condition or excessively messed with.

Check the front swivels - play on them will need attention, and if they are dry or grease filled could begin to get expensive. If the balls on the axle housing ends are rusted on the seal surface, this gets expensive.

Carburetter - should be Solex, but Zenith or Weber are OK if in good condition. A Holden carburetter is less than satisfactory.

Generator is prone to rear bush failure, many have been replaced by alternators, and the polarity reversed to negative earth.

Check fuel tank for leaks - can be expensive to fix or replace.


Perhaps you can find someone form here who is local and prepared to have a look. Fill in location under User CP will help.

John

[Shonky]

Location?

[subasurf]

Sorry. I'm in Perth, WA. I can't find the location section in the usercp. Which is odd, because all the other forums I'm on (many of which use the same forum software as this server) are p.o.p. to find.

[olmate]

1965 Series 2a Hey ..... Check out what John has covered (above) and "Go for it" :ohyes:

[Sleepy]

Yup John's got it covered.
If your not that mechanically savvy (like me) and it is a "bit sus" then walk away. Plenty of them turn up - just be patient. If this is not the right one then you will find one.
Remember if it's costing you $500 you may have to spend 2-3 times that (or more) to get it "right".
If it has rust in the chassis or bulkhead then serious repairs will be required. (ie: You'll need to know how to weld or know someone who does!)

If you are a spanner wizard then relax - but be prepared for some work.
(and get some Whitworth Spanners!)

I wish I had been a little more patient when I had bought my first S2!

Nonetheless once you get it right a S2 it will serve you well!

Oh...and welcome to aulro...are you a Suby driver? I miss my old Brumby:D

[subasurf]

Thanks for the help guys! Really appreciate it. Iĺl try and get out an look at the car tomorrow. My main worry is obviously chassis and bulk head rust...despite the fact I can weld (sort of) I really can be assed pulling the ENTIRE thing apart...yet. I am fairly good with my toolkit so any work needed to done is fine...in fact I like working on cars...the best way to get to know them.
Thanks again guys.

Oh and Sleepy, yeah I drive a 2001 Forester, which is gradually being modified and kitted out for rock crawling and touring. She is a beast off road :)