Wiring in a fridge etc.

[VladTepes]

To go into the tray of my 130 I have an Engel fridge.

Also need a power supply for reversing camera, light (interior), work light (exterior) and a spare socket or two for other items wouldn't go astray.

How would I best sort this out ?
Wiring / extra fuse box / breakers ??
What sirt of plugs etc should I use ?

Also I'd like to be able to remove the tub w/out having to unwire all the stuff.

Would it be possible to make a big plug so that I could just unplug and remove the tub ?

What about a similar plug for the tail / indicator / reversing lights and trailer connectors ??

Hmm, many questions.

Over to you !

[numpty]

Well, you know what kind of plugs and sockets I use (and thoroughly recommend),even for rough stuff.

If you want to remove the tub, I would suggest you connect the cable via an Anderson plug, which could be separated to allow removal of said tub.

[drivesafe]

Hi Vlad, the best plugs I’ve come across are the Anderson PowerPoles.

The smallest version of these are just a bit thicker that a ball point pen but unlike cigarette type power sockets which only handle up to 16 amps and Merit/Hella plugs and sockets which handle 20 amps, the PowerPoles handle 30 amps which means you are highly unlikely to ever overload them when used with a fridge or the likes.

At the point in time, the biggest draw back with using theses plugs is that there is no flush mount versions available here. This means they are only available in an end of cable set up.

But, in the next few weeks I hope to have a variety of flush mount fitting for these plugs.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1388.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Vlad

The way I'd be doing it would be making up a power distribution box, using one of the sealed junction boxes you can get from an electrical wholesaler. http://www.biasboating.com.au/images/PRODUCT/icon/383.jpg

Down each side I would have a couple of the plastic "cigarette lighter" style sockets you can get from marine suppliers like "Bias Boating (http://www.biasboating.com.au)" (they have some easy to mount ones with a flat face and 2 screws which aren't shown in the online catalogue) and probably several other types of outlets like these http://www.biasboating.com.au/images/PRODUCT/icon/412.jpg or http://www.biasboating.com.au/images/PRODUCT/icon/416.jpg with a Circuit breaker (http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-443-12v-circuit-breakers.aspx)http://www.biasboating.com.au/images/PRODUCT/icon/443.jpg or Fuse Holder (http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-390-panel-mount-fuse-holder.aspx)http://www.biasboating.com.au/images/PRODUCT/icon/390.jpg for each outlet.

I would then run a 6mm core figure 8 double insulated like NARVA sell (code 5826) to both sides of the battery with an appropriate sized auto reset circuit breaker
http://www.biasboating.com.au/images/PRODUCT/icon/445.jpg or http://www.biasboating.com.au/images/PRODUCT/icon/444.jpg at the battery end and an Aderson plug http://www.biasboating.com.au/images/PRODUCT/icon/440.jpg where you dismount your camper body. If you want some items to be on ignition or accessories, then I'd be using the same battery lead but adding a small headlamp relay in the power dist box switched by a dedicated lead from the Acc part of the ignition.

Diana

[martinozcmax]

Well, you know what kind of plugs and sockets I use (and thoroughly recommend),even for rough stuff.

If you want to remove the tub, I would suggest you connect the cable via an Anderson plug, which could be separated to allow removal of said tub.

Marriage is living, laughing and suffering together.

To quote the loaf himself. "2 out of 3 ain't bad. " :D :D :D

[VladTepes]

Thanks Tim - I reckon I can wait a few weeks !
Cheers

Lotza - very... pictorial ! Cheers

[waynep]

Some good ideas there, but you know what, I reckon any plug or socket that is externally mounted will eventually play up, even the Anderson ones. Dust, water, dirt, oil, crud will eventually find it's way to the contacts and create a resistance. If you're not going to remove the tub that often, it might be better to just have a grommet where you feed the wires through to the tub then terminate them in to some big mother screw terminals INSIDE the tub. From there go to a distribution box that has fuses and smaller cables going off to whatever you want to power. I'd be looking for some quite big cables to run through from the battery to the tub, even up to 35mm. Then if you want to ake the tub off you just isolate at the battery end, unscrew the cables in the tub end and push them through to the outside. You'll need to tape the bare cable ends while the tub is off. Leave it disconnected at the battery too.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The good thing about Anderson plugs is that they are industrial and take large currents. The contacts inside are rugged yet simple. Most importantly if you do have poor contact, the solution is usually only to remove and re-insert the plug which mechanically cleans the contact surfaces.

[drivesafe]

Thanks Tim - I reckon I can wait a few weeks !

Hi again Vlad, they are coming from the States so they should be here soon and I’ll PM you when they arrive.

[EchiDna]

I agree with most of what is written above, but to make your job easier, try some of the off the shelf stuff (marine focussed) from Bluesea Systems: Blue Sea Systems (http://bluesea.com/)
they have panels with "water resistant" switches, fuse holders, circuit breakers, panel meters etc which woulde be simple to work with rather than DIY up a panel from scratch... I'm sure I've seen similar on Ebay too...

that said, if you can get it from Drivesafe, go with it :)

[VladTepes]

just bumping this so i can find it again later.

[VladTepes]

Hi Vlad, the best plugs I’ve come across are the Anderson PowerPoles.

The smallest version of these are just a bit thicker that a ball point pen but unlike cigarette type power sockets which only handle up to 16 amps and Merit/Hella plugs and sockets which handle 20 amps, the PowerPoles handle 30 amps which means you are highly unlikely to ever overload them when used with a fridge or the likes.

At the point in time, the biggest draw back with using theses plugs is that there is no flush mount versions available here. This means they are only available in an end of cable set up.

But, in the next few weeks I hope to have a variety of flush mount fitting for these plugs.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1388.jpg

Tim ? What news ?

[drivesafe]

Hi vlad, I now have the three sizes plus a dual pair type plug, which takes either two pairs or one 4 way plug.

I you only intend to remove the tub once in a while a standard 8 way automotive plug will do the job, but continuos use of these types of plugs and sockets will make the contact areas loose their connectivity.

The other option, if you need a few more circuits, is to make up a larger plug using any number of the Anderson PowerPoles connected together. The terminals in these plugs are spring loaded so that after 10,000 operations, they will still have the same connectivity.

[VladTepes]

So Anderson power poles = Andersom Plugs (same thing different terminology?)

And to clarify - dop you have flush mount version or do tehy all hang off the end of a wire ?

Is there a link ? I couldn;tr see them on yur iste (flush mounted).

Cheers

[VladTepes]

bump.

[rusty05]

I personally reckon an anderson plug is an overkill for a fridge connection.
A cig connection is fine for lower power appliances. Most compressor driven fridges would draw around 3 A or less when running, I call this a low power appliance. (I'm sure somebody will disagree)

Avoid outside connections where possible
You can get some marine cig sockets from a few places at reasonable price.
The electric circuit breakers are fantastic, but I havent seen any under 20amp. Which is a little high for a cig connection, 15 would be better suited, but it depends on what u intend to use it for.
Use heavy wire (20-25amp) for the cig connection, and make it only as long as it needs to be to avoid any unneeded voltage drop.
Use a good cig plug which has maximum surface area to touch against the socket.

By all means use an anderson plug if you anticipate using higher current loads.

[VladTepes]

cig connection fall out way to easily over corrugations etc.


Tim - do you have flush mount anderson plugs ?

[ADMIRAL]

I use 'Hella ' type plugs almost exclusively now. They look like a combination of a cig plug and a speaker jack, but shorter. They have a firm hold when in the plug, and you can buy a variety of configerations. I use the right angle plugs for the fridges, as they are less prone to knocking of the plug when pulling the fridge in and out on a slide. The other advantage, is you can buy a cig type plug with a twist on plastic adaptor. Once the adaptor is removed, the end is a Hella type plug, albeit in a longer plug body. The early Waeco's had these plugs when using transformers.

[rusty05]

cig connection fall out way to easily over corrugations etc.


Tim - do you have flush mount anderson plugs ?



I agree majority do, but u can get some good sockets (marine ones I use) that have intends internally in the earth ring which help to stop this. So that the 2 earth sprung contacts of the plug have a ledge to sit in. This stops them from sliding out.

[Jose]

I have installed a duel battery setup in my Disco 1 (TDI) and chose to use Anderson plugs to the camper trailer. They have been fantastic - we've done '000's of km's off-raod and no sign of coming loose. I used 200A cable (ex-jumper leads - heaps cheaper) between batteries and 6mm wire to appliances.

At risk of sending this off in a different direction, can anyone help on how best to wire the solenoid in the engine bay to an ignition (or accessories) circuit? It is currently wired to the main battery, meaning the solenoid is always turned on. I only want the solenoid to operate and send charge to the 2nd battery when the ignition is on, but I am not sure on the best / easiest way to do this. Any advice gratefully received. Thanks.

[ADMIRAL]

I have installed a duel battery setup in my Disco 1 (TDI) and chose to use Anderson plugs to the camper trailer. They have been fantastic - we've done '000's of km's off-raod and no sign of coming loose. I used 200A cable (ex-jumper leads - heaps cheaper) between batteries and 6mm wire to appliances.

At risk of sending this off in a different direction, can anyone help on how best to wire the solenoid in the engine bay to an ignition (or accessories) circuit? It is currently wired to the main battery, meaning the solenoid is always turned on. I only want the solenoid to operate and send charge to the 2nd battery when the ignition is on, but I am not sure on the best / easiest way to do this. Any advice gratefully received. Thanks.
Hi Jose,

Sorry I cannot confirm if this will work, as I have not had any experience with the Disco I.........but, most of the older style solenoid controlled dual battery setups in Patrols and Cruisers, picked their active trigger current up from the wiper motor. Worth having a look with a multimeter.

[stace70]

Vlad,

have just about finished the electrics on my 130.....I have starter and aux1 under passenger seat and aux 2 in tray....from aux 2 I have a marine panel in large elec box (Plugs & Sockets (http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page26.html) down bottom of page)....it has 3 switches with reset circuit breakers in built (work light rear of tray canopy, inside canopy light, and for led strip on lift up gate) + hella plug (fridge) and extra cig socket.
I mounted a negative bus panel inside so both +ve/-ve light runs into the panel via 1 large gland, then a 3B&S run to battery from 2 large glands.

Cost ....about $120 (for panel,box and glands) and simple to install.......looked on Tims website first but the caravan stuff he had there didn't suit the lights etc I wanted

[VladTepes]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1040.jpg

Tim - are there flush mount fittings available for power poles now ?

[VladTepes]

bump -




Tim - are there flush mount fittings available for power poles now ?

[drivesafe]

Hi Vlad and sorry mate, I missed your last post.
Unfortunately, NO.

I just don’t have the time but there are some new products coming out of the States that can make PowerPole mountings a lot better.

If I can find some pictures of some of the gear, or post up links to them, I do so.