Fire extinguishers

[B92 8NW]

I wasn't going to say anything because it's bound to start an argument but I had an engine bay fire on Wednesday.

I've always carried a dry chemical fire extinguisher in all my cars.

I'd recommend everyone buys one, under $25 at a Hardware store, very cheap investment if a problem arises.

[long stroke]

I wasn't going to say anything because it's bound to start an argument but I had an engine bay fire on Wednesday.

I've always carried a dry chemical fire extinguisher in all my cars.

I'd recommend everyone buys one, under $25 at a Hardware store, very cheap investment if a problem arises.

Oh no:(, any major damage:o??

TIM.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

<snip> ... I've always carried a dry chemical fire extinguisher in all my cars.

I'd recommend everyone buys one, under $25 at a Hardware store, very cheap investment if a problem arises.

Very wise decision, to be followed up by the purchase of a travellers first aid kit.

I always have a dilemma about safety and originality for the presence of a fire extinguisher. The safety always wins out, I used to like the BCF extinguishers which didn't leave all the powder on everything, unfortunately they kill the ozone layer and also the people in the car.

Diana


Oh no:(, any mager damage:o??

TIM.Unfortunately it burned the dictionary! :twisted:

[dullbird]

first thing to be fitted to my car before any mods was a fire extinguisher the other 2 also have one......I do have a first aid kit too in all my cars!

[dmdigital]

Yep, fire extinguisher is always a good thing to carry.

Just remember:
Don't leave it just lying in the vehicle. Every few months, check the charge and also invert it to make sure it hasn't settled to much.

If there's smoke pouring from under the bonnet you don't want just pop it and lift it open, this can actually cause a much worse situation.

[dullbird]

I thought you just pop the bonnet and aim the extinguisher under not opening the bonnet right up

[dmdigital]

I thought you just pop the bonnet and aim the extinguisher under not opening the bonnet right up
Correct, you just want enough to be able to get the extinguisher under. By lifting the bonnet you can actually cause the fire to gain hold as you release the smoke that is effectively choking the fire and provide it with the air it needs to grow. There was a good example of what to do on this years Dakar.

[MacFamily]

Have two fire extinguishers under each side of the rear seat of the defender.

Must remember to do what dm_td5 said take them out and invert them, have been sitting for couple of months in the same spot.

No point in having two if they dont work properly, job for tommorrow.

[abaddonxi]

Hope not too much damage, Joel.

Simon

[dmdigital]

One other thing. Make sure the pin is in place and it is secure - grenade jokes aside - YOU DO NOT WANT IT GOING OFF IN THE VEHICLE WHEN YOU DON'T WANT IT TO.

This happened the other month to a guy a work, passenger jumped in and accidently kicked the fire extinguisher trigger and hey presto, one very, very dusty HiLux... on the inside:eek: OK so the results are spectacular and actually very funny - but only when its not your vehicle.

[dullbird]

hang on you have to push the handle down once the pin is out

[hook]

first thing to be fitted to my car before any mods was a fire extinguisher the other 2 also have one......I do have a first aid kit too in all my cars!


Yes first mod to any car.

[dmdigital]

hang on you have to push the handle down once the pin is out
So you pick up the fire extinguisher and pull out the pin then squeeze the trigger. But what if the pin falls out and the trigger is released when it shouldn't be:eek:

[Blknight.aus]

on the deefer classes dont even bother opening the bonnet, if you have the chance park it so its got a tail wind or nose uphill and then do a pray and spray from under the vehicle on the drivers side between the chassis and the propshaft and over the diff

Not sure how well it works on the V8s or the new pumas but it should also work on the TDI discos and anything with a suzi.

dont forget the golden rule of those little 1.2l and smaller extinguishers...

they're one shot take 3 seconds to work out how you can safely best use it squeeze it and keep it going. they generally last about 5 seconds

[B92 8NW]

Oh no:(, any mager damage:o??

TIM.

The damage... It's all relative. I've come to expect that if I actually get out of bed in the morning, the whole universe is bound to explode in my face.

[Sprint]

got a 2kg dry powder bolted to the floor just in front of the passenger seat, got half a dozen 2.25 and 4.5kg ones sitting around the house at home...... even if i never need them, they're allways there for a cheap source of amusement :-D

[long stroke]

Very wise decision, to be followed up by the purchase of a travellers first aid kit.

I always have a dilemma about safety and originality for the presence of a fire extinguisher. The safety always wins out, I used to like the BCF extinguishers which didn't leave all the powder on everything, unfortunately they kill the ozone layer and also the people in the car.

Diana

Unfortunately it burned the dictionary! :twisted:

SORRY:angel:

[numpty]

No need to pop the bonnet on our Defender. He has a 13mm gap between bonnet and guards,:( ideal for extinguisher access.:D

[PhilipA]

I always have a dilemma about safety and originality for the presence of a fire extinguisher. The safety always wins out, I used to like the BCF extinguishers which didn't leave all the powder on everything, unfortunately they kill the ozone layer and also the people in the car.
.The rest of the world still uses BCF.
So much for the crap about Australia leading by example.
http://www.pilotshop.co.za/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=18&category_id=6&option=com
Regards Philip A

[101RRS]

I had a BCF in my landie 20 years ago and it got used a couple of times on other cars and worked well. With dry powder I did have one not work because of powder compaction so the points about turning them around and having them lying flat in a vehicle are spot on.

I would have thought a CO2 extinguidher would work as well as a BCF in the car but have never seen them - anyone with CO2 in their car or know of issues?

Garry

[dullbird]

on the deefer classes dont even bother opening the bonnet, if you have the chance park it so its got a tail wind or nose uphill and then do a pray and spray from under the vehicle on the drivers side between the chassis and the propshaft and over the diff

Not sure how well it works on the V8s or the new pumas but it should also work on the TDI discos and anything with a suzi.

dont forget the golden rule of those little 1.2l and smaller extinguishers...

they're one shot take 3 seconds to work out how you can safely best use it squeeze it and keep it going. they generally last about 5 seconds

not sure I would feel comfortable lying underneath a burning car.....when its not as easy to get up and get out the way should something go horribly wrong!

[B92 8NW]

not sure I would feel comfortable lying underneath a burning car.....when its not as easy to get up and get out the way should something go horribly wrong!

It's all under control pretty much belting along at 90. It was in stopping... wooooof!!

I think there was an instance in switzerland when a truck caught fire in a tunnel, and he kept driving until the exit, preventing a massive fire in the tunnel.

[dullbird]

It's all under control pretty much belting along at 90. It was in stopping... wooooof!!

I think there was an instance in switzerland when a truck caught fire in a tunnel, and he kept driving until the exit, preventing a massive fire in the tunnel.


So are you suggesting you would lie underneith a car putting out a fire when its moving a long at 90 :lol2::D

[numpty]

I had a BCF in my landie 20 years ago and it got used a couple of times on other cars and worked well. With dry powder I did have one not work because of powder compaction so the points about turning them around and having them lying flat in a vehicle are spot on.

I would have thought a CO2 extinguidher would work as well as a BCF in the car but have never seen them - anyone with CO2 in their car or know of issues?

Garry

Biggest problem I could see with CO2 would be weight and size, as these extinguishers are usual of a much heavier construction. But yes, they would work well.

[PhilipA]

The main limitation of dry powder is that you have to hit the seat of the fire, ie right where the combustable material is burning. the powder smothers the fire and prevents o2 reaching the source.
This is usually pretty unlikely unless you have an open bonnet.
I recall my airport fire training from 40 years ago, when I was shown how to do it and put out a 2x2 metre tray of burning petrol.
Regards Philip A

[dmdigital]

I had a BCF in my landie 20 years ago and it got used a couple of times on other cars and worked well. With dry powder I did have one not work because of powder compaction so the points about turning them around and having them lying flat in a vehicle are spot on.

I would have thought a CO2 extinguidher would work as well as a BCF in the car but have never seen them - anyone with CO2 in their car or know of issues?

Garry
A CO2 extinguisher isn't the same. The BCF is actually an oxygen depleting compound, which is one of the things that makes them so nasty. The CO2 is an oxygen and temperature displacing extinguisher - also good for chilling beer bottles.

[peewee]

.The rest of the world still uses BCF.
So much for the crap about Australia leading by example.
http://www.pilotshop.co.za/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=18&category_id=6&option=com
Regards Philip A
bcf has been illegal in europe for years. we used to use them in the army for cooling cans of beer down, put the beer in a box set of a bcf and throw it in the box as well and wait ten minutes. this was back in the eighties when we didint know the damage they caused !

i think for serious of road use you cant beat the rally car fire system. plumbed in pipe work directing the fire extinguisher into the engine bay from a properly mounted fixed extingiusher set of by t handle pull or electric button in drivers and co drivers reach.
nothing worse than rolling over and seeing flames from under the bonnet and not being able to reach your extinguisher

[numpty]

The main limitation of dry powder is that you have to hit the seat of the fire, ie right where the combustable material is burning. the powder smothers the fire and prevents o2 reaching the source.
This is usually pretty unlikely unless you have an open bonnet.
I recall my airport fire training from 40 years ago, when I was shown how to do it and put out a 2x2 metre tray of burning petrol.
Regards Philip A

This is true to an extent, but in a confined space, the extinguishing medium, be it BCF (illegal) DCP or CO2, also acts to smother the fire and exclude oxygen.

[Xavie]

I always had 2 extinguishers and one or two fire blankets. I always figured that if I could gte the blanket over the fire and then aim from underneath the vehicles or just under the blanket that it may work reasonably effectively.

YEt to prove it though which is good:)

[Blknight.aus]

not sure I would feel comfortable lying underneath a burning car.....when its not as easy to get up and get out the way should something go horribly wrong!

you dont lie under it you sort of squat down upwind of the fire and just reach the extinguisher under. do it right and you get the advantage of being upwind and downhill of the fire while getting some shielding from the bodywork and the tyre.

try it without a fire first, you'll see what I mean

[Bushie]

The main limitation of dry powder is that you have to hit the seat of the fire, ie right where the combustable material is burning. the powder smothers the fire and prevents o2 reaching the source.
This is usually pretty unlikely unless you have an open bonnet.
I recall my airport fire training from 40 years ago, when I was shown how to do it and put out a 2x2 metre tray of burning petrol.
Regards Philip A

The smothering is only part of the picture with both DCP and the halons (BTM, BCF etc) they actually work by interrupting the chemical chain reaction during combustion.

One of the biggest problems with DCP is that it doesn't have much cooling effect and hence will readily reignite once the air is able to get back to the fuel.

Halon compounds are ozone depleting agents and as Australia was (is) a signatory to the Montreal Protocol they were progressively phased out after 1987, except for a few allowed uses (aircraft engine fires etc).


Martyn

[Bushie]

But what if the pin falls out and the trigger is released when it shouldn't be:eek:

Been there :(

In a series 2 trayback (IIRC) the extinguisher dropped down behind the seat and went off :eek::eek:

Martyn

[Sprint]

Nothing worse than rolling over and seeing flames from under the bonnet and not being able to reach your extinguisher
which is why according to every version of motorsport rules regarding hand held fire extinguishers, the minimum usually calls for a 1.5kg dry powder fire extinguisher mounted in a position that is accessible from the drivers seat

[Panda]

Don't want to rain on anyone's parade - but some years ago, we had a fire in the Rangie, electrical which started in the firewall (in the main street of Camden). Within seconds, it had spread to the air con, & despite trying to put it out with a fire extinguisher, as well as a commercial one we borrowed from a shop where the car was, it did not good whatsoever. The only one's who could put it out were the fireys.

[CraigE]

I had a BCF in my landie 20 years ago and it got used a couple of times on other cars and worked well. With dry powder I did have one not work because of powder compaction so the points about turning them around and having them lying flat in a vehicle are spot on.

I would have thought a CO2 extinguidher would work as well as a BCF in the car but have never seen them - anyone with CO2 in their car or know of issues?

Garry
Yep,
If CO2 is used with any people or animals in a car will suffocate them. Generally a lot shorter duration, as well so you have to be a lot more accurate, also a bit more expensive, can cause freeze burns if used incorrectly or without gloves and generally a 4.5kg will be the smallest available.
Integrated CO2 or foam setups work well but are expensive for the layman.
Cheers
CraigE

[CraigE]

This is true to an extent, but in a confined space, the extinguishing medium, be it BCF (illegal) DCP or CO2, also acts to smother the fire and exclude oxygen.
Agreed. While a small dcp will generally need to be aimed at the seat of the fire it is not always possible and can be used as a deluge effect eg confined spaces, into engine bays as it will deplete O2, also on chem/fuel fires aiming at the seat may spread the fire so a dcp should be used as a deluge over the top rather than at the seat.
Yes I would always carry one as if you can hit the fire early you can put them out and even if the fire has hold you can use them to create an escape or protect other items.
CraigE

[CraigE]

Don't want to rain on anyone's parade - but some years ago, we had a fire in the Rangie, electrical which started in the firewall (in the main street of Camden). Within seconds, it had spread to the air con, & despite trying to put it out with a fire extinguisher, as well as a commercial one we borrowed from a shop where the car was, it did not good whatsoever. The only one's who could put it out were the fireys.
Panda,
Yep, once a fire takes hold it is very difficult for an inexperienced person to put one out with a dcp, even a 9kg one. It can be done but takes a bit of knowledge and no fear of fire. I personally have put out roaring car fires with a 9kg. As said however the dcp has no cooling effect so reignition is very possible and likely. A good idea is to also carry a fire blanket and cover the area after being extinguished for at least 2 hrs (normal fire watch timing).
But any attempt is better than none and you may just save your property or someone elses even if all you do is reduce the fire until the fireys arrive.
I urge anyone who may have the need to possibly use an extinguisher to do a basic course. I do have a basic theory course I have put together for BHP and can do some training for anyone who wants to supply the gear and is near.
Cheers
Craig

[dullbird]

Panda,
Yep, once a fire takes hold it is very difficult for an inexperienced person to put one out with a dcp, even a 9kg one. It can be done but takes a bit of knowledge and no fear of fire. I personally have put out roaring car fires with a 9kg. As said however the dcp has no cooling effect so reignition is very possible and likely. A good idea is to also carry a fire blanket and cover the area after being extinguished for at least 2 hrs (normal fire watch timing).
But any attempt is better than none and you may just save your property or someone elses even if all you do is reduce the fire until the fireys arrive.
I urge anyone who may have the need to possibly use an extinguisher to do a basic course. I do have a basic theory course I have put together for BHP and can do some training for anyone who wants to supply the gear and is near.
Cheers
Craig


Can you have someone video you doing the course craig? so all members that can't get to you get the advantage also...

[Grover-98]

I got one in the drivers foot well :)

[CraigE]

Can you have someone video you doing the course craig? so all members that can't get to you get the advantage also...
DB thats a thought. Next one we run I can try and get video taped. Still not quite the same as hands on. Will have to wait until the cooler weather though. Total fire bans here until end of Feb so can not run drills.
Hey is it possible to post a power point presentation and vid on here. As I created the basic course I could change logos to AULRO logo's if that is acceptable and make it a tutorial.
Cheers
CraigE

[SmokyBear]

Some of the info that has been offered in this thread is not strictly correct. (No, not yours CraigE) I did write an expansive list of all the extinguisher types, their properties, applications & limitations, but it really was too much info for here. I highly recommend formal training.

If you can avoid it, CO2 extinguishers should NOT be carried within a vehicle cabin. A leak or accidental discharge will displace the oxygen, causing asphyxiation of the occupants.

The most suitable extinguisher for general vehicle use is the DCP type. They can be used on Class A, B & (E) fires & are non toxic (but may be irritant if inhaled).

All other extinguisher types are either too specific in their application or have other limitations that make them unsuitable for general vehicle use.

If there are specific questions I'm happy to answer them. My background is as a career firefighter & emergency services trainer.


Yep,
If CO2 isused with any people or animals in a car will suffocate them. Generally a lot shorter duration, as well so you have o be a lot more accurate, also a bit more expensive, can cause freeze burns if used incorrectly or without gloves and generally a 4.5kg will be the smallest available.
Integrated CO2 or foam setups work well but are expensive for the layman.
Cheers
CraigE

[Lotz-A-Landies]

<snip> ... They can be used on Class A, B & (E) fires ... <snip> I always have trouble finding the specification plate on fires, is there a quick way of identifying which class of fire it is?

No this is serious stuff and getting some training about dealing with fire is good, for many people it is an annual event at work. (Geez I'm glad they don't still use the "hospital's don't burn" video any more. I was always so sad when the fellow's hand with it's wedding ring slipped from under the mortuary trolley cover.)

Diana :(

[Basil135]

This may be of interest for some of you. I have no idea of pricing, but if there were a number of people interested (5+ maybe) we might be able to arrange some sort of bulk discount.

Stat-X Fire protection punching above its weight

Sydney, Aus., 10 October, 2008 - Small, simple to install and ideal for confined spaces such as 4WD engine bays and marine engine spaces and battery boxes, the Stat-X range of fire suppression units from Chubb is ideal for boaters, caravaners, campers and 4WD enthusiasts.

The single-use units, which range in size from the smallest, measuring 74mm in length and 51mm in diameter, to the largest, 267mm x 203mm, can be electrically, thermally or manually activated and do not require the expensive pressure vessels and piping required by other fire extinguishing systems.

“Fires on boats, especially in the engine bays and during or after refuelling, can have devastating consequences. The Stat-X units are a rapid response, quick knock-down solution that serves as a first line of defence in such situations,” Rodney Molla, from Chubb Fire Safety, said.

“For 4WD enthusiasts and grey nomads, having a Stat-X unit in the engine bay of the vehicle is a vital part of fire protection, especially when they are off the well-beaten track. The unit can help knock down a fire quickly, limiting damage and protecting other vital equipment,’’ he added.

With a service life of 10 years and very low maintenance requirements the Stat-X units are perfect for protecting the engine space and electrical systems of inboard-ouboards and cruisers, the engine bays and electrical systems of 4WDs and are ideal for the confined spaces of caravans and purpose-built camping trailers.

The units use an ultra-fine potassium-based aerosol which rapidly interferes with the free radials in flames and terminating propagation of the fire.

The aerosol is environmentally safe and tests show that it is five times more effective than halon and 10 times more effective than currently available halon alternatives in extinguishing Class B fires. Because of the design of the aerosol it is particularly suited to where other fire extinguishants can cause more damage to sensitive electrical or electronic equipment than an actual fire.

Chubb Fire Safety is part of Chubb Australasia, which is part of UTC Fire and Security, a US$5.8 billion company that provides fire safety and security solutions to more than one million customers worldwide. Headquartered in Connecticut, U.S., UTC Fire & Security is a business unit of United Technologies Corp., which provides high technology products and services to the building and aerospace industries worldwide. More information about Chubb and UTC Fire & Security can be found on their Web sites at UTC Fire & Security Home (http://www.utcfireandsecurity.com) and Chubb Australia - Security and Fire Safety (http://www.chubb.com.au)

For your nearest Stat-X supplier call Chubb on 1300 369 309.

[George130]

I got one in the drivers foot well :)

Thats where mine lives to.

Only car fire I have had was in a servo:D. Scared the poor young guy behind the counter.

Beyond that it has been a minor house fire and a 40 acre grass fire. Grass fire took half a day to put out with curtains and heshan sacks.

[SmokyBear]

Ah, sorry : )

Class A - Combustible Solids: Paper, Wood, Plastic, Rubber etc.
Class B - Flammable Liquids: Petrol, Oil, Tar etc.
Class C - Flammable Gas: Propane, Butane etc.
Class D - Combustible Metals: Magnesium, Potassium, Sodium, Aluminium etc.
Class (E) - Energised Electrical Equipment (turn off the power & it becomes one of the other fire classes)
Class F - Cooking Oils & Fats.

Different Extinguishers are suited to different fire classes, but DCP covers the widest range & is the safest in untrained hands.

See Fire classes - Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_classes), but ignore the American fire class system.


I always have trouble finding the specification plate on fires, is there a quick way of identifying which class of fire it is?

No this is serious stuff and getting some training about dealing with fire is good, for many people it is an annual event at work. (Geez I'm glad they don't still use the "hospital's don't burn" video any more. I was always so sad when the fellow's hand with it's wedding ring slipped from under the mortuary trolley cover.)

Diana :(

[JohnF]

Years ago my VW type 3 s/waggon caught fire next to the Tweed River. I dragged my gear out and shut it up to limit oxygen to the fire, and waited for the fire brigade. When they got there 10 minutes later, they opened up the engine cover and poured water & foam on to this fire. The water & foam would not put the fire out on the burning engine alloy. So they used a CO2 extinguisher to cool the fire, so they could put it out by water. The car was not insured --had third party Property--and was then given to a local who wanted to make it into a beach buggy. If I had thought about it at the time, I could have pushed it into the river, before the fire took hold, then lifted it out by a tow truck, which would have stopped much damage. So I like CO2, but yes CO2 if it leaks will suffocate you. VW motors were magnesium alloy that burn at about 1000 degrees C. It was probably an electrical fire, which started it, which then burnt the oilly greasy motor, which then caught the magnesium alloy on fire. I always made sure that my motor was clean after that incident, as a clean motor has much less that can burn. I hitched home to Sydney with all my gear and cameras, and a large heavy tool box after that fire. Only other engine fire I had was while a NRMA guy was trying to start my car. He put this out with his extiguisher and found the petrol drain plug on the carby had fallen out, hence the fire started when he took a spark lead off. Replaced the plug, the car started, and I drove home.

[numpty]

You cant use water on magnesium as it supplies more oxygen to maintain combustion. The CO2 does not cool, but it would have smothered to exclude oxygen.

[miky]

Never been with a vehicle that has caught fire, but:

Something that has not been mentioned...

Just wodering, what is the chances of an fire with a diesal engine?

Or is it something else like a wiring harness or??? that sometimes catches fire.

For some reason, I always assumed it was a petrol leak that caused a fire. But I suppose other "stuff" could cause a fire.

[CraigE]

Do not use water or foam on magnesium fires (some engines and 70's mag wheels) as adding water or foam will cause it to become volatile and explode spreading the fire and injuring people. A DCP or CO2 can be used or better still cover with dry sand (reiterate must be dry). There was a video a few years ago in the US where firefighters turned out to a small magnesium fire on 1 pallet in a yard. The fire fighters hit it with water and what started out as a 1 engine response eventually turned into a massive blaze gutting the whole yard and adjoining factories.
:o

[CraigE]

I always have trouble finding the specification plate on fires, is there a quick way of identifying which class of fire it is?

No this is serious stuff and getting some training about dealing with fire is good, for many people it is an annual event at work. (Geez I'm glad they don't still use the "hospital's don't burn" video any more. I was always so sad when the fellow's hand with it's wedding ring slipped from under the mortuary trolley cover.)

Diana :(
Smoky Bear has listed the classes, but as a technical point class E no longer exists and is refered to as Type E due to the fact the electrical source can be removed. You also have to bear in mind a lot of plastics can revert to petroleum base when melted.
As said the DCP is the most universally applicable media, though foam is suitable for car fires without power invertors on board as the water content in the foam is conductive and power invertors will have 240v and can cause conductivity electrocuting the fireman, so you need to be carefull on this application (same if attacking with water). Please bear in mind if you have an invertor in your car inform anyone attempting fire fighting on it.
Then there is toxic smoke from most plastics and rubber in cars. If it is well ablaze get clear and let it burn. Wait for firey's to attend in BA.
Formal training should be a must for all business / companies / govt departments. Sadly most only do theoretical training. Nothing like a bit of hands on for confidence.

[CraigE]

Some of the info that has been offered in this thread is not strictly correct. (No, not yours CraigE) I did write an expansive list of all the extinguisher types, their properties, applications & limitations, but it really was too much info for here. I highly recommend formal training.

If you can avoid it, CO2 extinguishers should NOT be carried within a vehicle cabin. A leak or accidental discharge will displace the oxygen, causing asphyxiation of the occupants.

The most suitable extinguisher for general vehicle use is the DCP type. They can be used on Class A, B & (E) fires & are non toxic (but may be irritant if inhaled).

All other extinguisher types are either too specific in their application or have other limitations that make them unsuitable for general vehicle use.

If there are specific questions I'm happy to answer them. My background is as a career firefighter & emergency services trainer.
Agreed,
Are you still in the Fire Service and where?
:D:D

[SmokyBear]

Hi Craig. Yep, still in the job. WA Fire & Rescue Service. (Anyone mentioning FESA will be shot.)


Agreed,
Are you still in the Fire Service and where?
:D:D

[CraigE]

Hi Craig. Yep, still in the job. WA Fire & Rescue Service. (Anyone mentioning FESA will be shot.)
Yeah,
We have a few of your boys come to site and do fill in shutdown work with us, usually under the banner of Hostile or SDS. You probablly know a few of them.

[waynep]

Question : I've have two small 1.2kg Quell extingushers in my car ( rechargeable ) for about 5 years. The guage on one has only now fallen slightly below the green line into the "recharge" area.

Is it better/cheaper to get it recharged or just buy a new one ?
For recharge where do I take it ?

[Sprint]

can usually get the 1.2kg dry powder fire extinguishers for $25-$30, and being 5 years old its probably near its pressure test date anyway, just replace it with a new one

if you're set on getting it recharged, there will be several fire suppression equipment maintenance companies in your local yellow pages who will be happy to do the job for a price

[SmokyBear]

Sprint is right, get a new one. A recharge on this size extinguisher will cost more than the unit is worth. Take it out in the back yard & have a practice shot with it. This will give you an idea of what to expect when you need it for real.


can usually get the 1.2kg dry powder fire extinguishers for $25-$30, and being 5 years old its probably near its pressure test date anyway, just replace it with a new one

if you're set on getting it recharged, there will be several fire suppression equipment maintenance companies in your local yellow pages who will be happy to do the job for a price

[CraigE]

Question : I've have two small 1.2kg Quell extingushers in my car ( rechargeable ) for about 5 years. The guage on one has only now fallen slightly below the green line into the "recharge" area.

Is it better/cheaper to get it recharged or just buy a new one ?
For recharge where do I take it ?
That size it is normally cheaper to buy new ones.

[steveG]

While at one a camping show a while back I had a sales guy tell me that it was preferable to get an extinguisher with a hose on it as it was easier to direct at the fire.
Made logical sense to me, but I'd be interested in an opinion from those with more experience.
BTW - didn't buy from that salesman, but got a good deal on a 2kg with a hose a couple of weeks later.

SteveG

[aew849]

Am not a professional smokey but have used foam, bcf and co2 in flying training and actual fires as well as dropping water/foam on bushfires. Aircraft cabins still have BCF types, indeed there 2 Halon 1211's in the cabin of the wokka wokka, as well as the integrated system for the engine bays. Co2 will rapidly knock down a fire by depleting o2 but depending on the fire the heat, fuel n oxygen triangle can remain and therefore relight, plus it stuffs human respiration.

Dry powder are a good compromise for everyday ops, but the powder can settle over time....just like Milo tins.

Foam does a great job, but the electrical fires (when still live) can be dangerous.

Recall from Navy seariding days: Halon drench systems took over from steam drench for machinery spaces. The captain would fire the system to smother the fire and then wait for the external (bulkhead) temperatures to drop before the fire teams would attack. However it was trained into us that if Halon was heated up over 400 odd degrees, it turned carcinogenic so a HAZMAT plan was needed for the clean up.

I don't have an extinguisher just yet, as Le Truck and I are still getting to know each other after just 4 weeks....but the cheap insurance policy for your trusty truck and others drivers is top of the list.:)

As for shooting it into the engine bay, my plan would be to pop the bonnet but not open it using the greater gap, and tried to remember to park down wind. If I had the upper hand the bonnet could then be opened to finish it off.

But most modern engines have a great black plastic shroud covering the engine for noise attenuation and to keep home mechanics out of it. It is likely that it would help shield the effect of any fire extinguisher!

My 2 bits.

aew849
04 130 HCPU

[SmokyBear]

I'd support that view Steve. When using DCP, especially on a flammable liquid fire, you need to cover the whole flaming zone with powder. That is far more easily achieved with a hose. A 2kg extinguisher will also knock down a lot more flame.


While at one a camping show a while back I had a sales guy tell me that it was preferable to get an extinguisher with a hose on it as it was easier to direct at the fire.
Made logical sense to me, but I'd be interested in an opinion from those with more experience.
BTW - didn't buy from that salesman, but got a good deal on a 2kg with a hose a couple of weeks later.

SteveG

[SmokyBear]

Yep, all valid info, however the topic was about extinguishers for carrying in the car, so I didn't want to complicate the issue.



Am not a professional smokey but have used foam, bcf and co2 in flying training and actual fires as well as dropping water/foam on bushfires. Aircraft cabins still have BCF types, indeed there 2 Halon 1211's in the cabin of the wokka wokka, as well as the integrated system for the engine bays. Co2 will rapidly knock down a fire by depleting o2 but depending on the fire the heat, fuel n oxygen triangle can remain and therefore relight, plus it stuffs human respiration.

Dry powder are a good compromise for everyday ops, but the powder can settle over time....just like Milo tins.

Foam does a great job, but the electrical fires (when still live) can be dangerous.

Recall from Navy seariding days: Halon drench systems took over from steam drench for machinery spaces. The captain would fire the system to smother the fire and then wait for the external (bulkhead) temperatures to drop before the fire teams would attack. However it was trained into us that if Halon was heated up over 400 odd degrees, it turned carcinogenic so a HAZMAT plan was needed for the clean up.

I don't have an extinguisher just yet, as Le Truck and I are still getting to know each other after just 4 weeks....but the cheap insurance policy for your trusty truck and others drivers is top of the list.:)

As for shooting it into the engine bay, my plan would be to pop the bonnet but not open it using the greater gap, and tried to remember to park down wind. If I had the upper hand the bonnet could then be opened to finish it off.

But most modern engines have a great black plastic shroud covering the engine for noise attenuation and to keep home mechanics out of it. It is likely that it would help shield the effect of any fire extinguisher!

My 2 bits.

aew849
04 130 HCPU

[isuzurover]

DCP is quite corrosive. Especially to aluminium. So - if you need to use it, make sure any residue is thoroughlt washed away afterwards.


Aircraft cabins still have BCF types, indeed there 2 Halon 1211's in the cabin of the wokka wokka, as well as the integrated system for the engine bays.
I think you will find that this is because of the corrosion potential mentioned above.

FWIW - I have a DCP in each landie. I had to use one in anger once when an accessory wire rubbed through a jagged bit of zinc on the galvanised firewall.

[hoadie72]

Hi Craig. Yep, still in the job. WA Fire & Rescue Service. (Anyone mentioning FESA will be shot.)

Cool.. my old man's in WA F&R...he's based down in Bunbury..