No head lights!!!

[Larry]

A couple of weeks ago, the head lights on my '03 Defender failed to come on.:(
The parkers work, & I can flash the high beam, But no main beam.
I bought a new switch, plugged it in, but no change.
When putting the old switch back in, I bumped the flasher stalk & the lights came on.:eek:

They worked for a week, but have gone again.:wallbash:

I've checked the fuses etc, wiggled switches, plugs seem tight, but still no lights.

Any suggestions???

Mark.

[dullbird]

bet its the stalk burning out

[dmdigital]

I know this sounds really stupid, but ...

Do you have the ignition on when you are checking the lights?

If not that then I would suggest looking at the switch. Especially if you have higher than normal bulbs in the lights.

[solmanic]

Ahhh, the old Defender headlight switch failing trick. Probably the MOST talked about common failure on Defenders. Made even more frustrating by the fact that on a visual inspection of the switch things will usually look fine.

I can't explain why the new switch didn't work, but I echo dm_td5's query, did you have the ignition switched to "on" (not just accessory) when you tested it?

Do a search on here for Drivesafe's headlight wiring upgrade. This is the sledgehammer fix that should ensure you never have to be left in the dark again.

[Larry]

I know this sounds really stupid, but ...

Do you have the ignition on when you are checking the lights?

Not a stupid question, but yes the ignition was on.

If not that then I would suggest looking at the switch. Especially if you have higher than normal bulbs in the lights.

Do you mean the main switch or the high/low beam? I changed the main switch with no change. :(

[George130]

Do you mean the main switch or the high/low beam? I changed the main switch with no change. :(

That would be the high/low beam in the indicator stalk.

Mine first started to fail there. inner most blue wire caused the same as you are experiencing. 6 months later my main failed.

[Scouse]

bet its the stalk burning outYep.
No relays on high & low I assume Mark :(.

[dmdigital]

Actually I was referring to the main light switch but as Edd points out it can be the high/low selector on the indicator stalk.

Pull the steering wheel and covers off and have a look. I suspect in your case its the main switch not the indicator stalk. The both switches are easy (not relatively cheap) to replace.

[Larry]

Actually I was referring to the main light switch but as Edd points out it can be the high/low selector on the indicator stalk.

Pull the steering wheel and covers off and have a look. I suspect in your case its the main switch not the indicator stalk. The both switches are easy (not relatively cheap) to replace.

I tried a new main switch, so I guess the high/low one is next.

Yes Scott, no relays yet.:angel:

[dmdigital]

You can bridge out the connections and this will prove if its the switch for high/low. It could also be dirty contacts.

As suggested, get the relay kit from Traxide its money well spent.

[PAT303]

Mine stopped giving me high beam last week.It is the indicator switch and there is no broken wire or any noticeable fault.How does the wiring kit fix the problem?. Pat

[dmdigital]

Mine stopped giving me high beam last week.It is the indicator switch and there is no broken wire or any noticeable fault.How does the wiring kit fix the problem?. Pat
Pat the wiring kit won't fix the problem, but it will help prevent it from occurring. The Defender (pre-2007) puts the full current load through the head light switch and high/low beam switch. Its not the only vehicle to do this, however the better alternative is to have a low current circuit that triggers a relay to turn the lights on/off. The traxide kit provides this option and doesn't require any cutting of the wiring loom.

[jimbo110]

Mine stopped giving me high beam last week.It is the indicator switch and there is no broken wire or any noticeable fault.How does the wiring kit fix the problem?. Pat
The contacts get dirty and cause high resistance between the contacts which with a few amps flowing causes heat. The contacts get hot and melt into the plastic they sit in. When they sink low enough into the plastic the lights stop working as the contacts don't touch together anymore. The contacts can be heated (GENTLY) with a soldering iron and pushed back out proud of the plastic base. They only need to drop a millimeter or so to kill the lights, so look carefully.

Lucas, prince of darkness........................

[Larry]

I got the multi meter out & had a good look at all the contacts. I wiggled a few more wires & sure enough, found the loose contact & the lights came on.:arms:

Its a short tem fix I know, at least I can drive at night now.

All I need to do now is get one of Drivesafe's upgrade looms.:angel:

Thanks everyone for your advise.

Mark.

[ashman]

I had the same problem just before Xmas, the lights were playing up for about a week they came on when playing with the swich before they finely gave up coming on, took it to a auto elec as I thought the swich was at fault, it ended being the plug that connected to the swich that was at fualt, cost me $95 to fix and had no more problems with it, cheaper than a new swich...

Hope this helps
Ashley