V8 Discovery Lack of Power

[Slow Disco]

My 99 Discovery V8 has no power, car just chugs along and if I push it, it will backfire. I had just been on a 1hr drive with no problems, stopped to go into shops for 20 minutes and as soon as I drove off no power. I pulled over and stopped the car and restarted, problem still there. Vechicle is always maintained.

Missus said it happened to her once earlier in the week.

Any ideas?

[Grover-98]

Miss firing? and that would cause it to run on less cylinders therefore a lot less power. Had that problem with my 3.5 Rangy.

[mike 90 RR]

Anywhere from

fouled plugs .. dead leads ...

Open the bonnet in a dark garage & start the motor ... look for "Blue arking" from the spark leads

Mike

[Slow Disco]

Mike,
Leads are only about 20,000 old (10 months old), plugs iridium have done about 12,000 - so I was thinking I could discount these as a cause.
Thanks,

[mike 90 RR]

Mike,
Leads are only about 20,000 old (10 months old), plugs iridium have done about 12,000 - so I was thinking I could discount these as a cause.
Thanks,

I would still look at em ...

If you have a Dizzy ... Dizzy cap for hairline cracks & then the rotor button

After that ... try a known good coil

[Slow Disco]

I let car cool down with bonnet open for 1.5 hrs (33c outside), took for a burn around the block, car going fine. Wondering if there is a heat sensor which does something and once it gets hot it's failing??

[mcrover]

Sounds pretty normal for a rover V8,

No power, goes chug chug chug :wasntme:














Fuel flow and ignition are the only controling factors really.

If your leads are good quality and good condition then look at your plugs.

Your plugs should tell you what the engine is doing.

Black wet and sooty = rich or burning oil = Rings, head gasket or any of the controling factors for your fuel mixture (O2 sensor,MAP sensor etc etc)
Brown/tan = lean = blocked fuel filter, line etc or fuel control again
dark grey/black dry = normal

Could be a number of inputs to the computer, not enough information to make a correct diagnosis

[Tombie]

Only when hot sounds like the module on the dizzy...

Replace the module (cheap) and see how u go..

I doubt the iridiums are the issue, mine did 80,000 no issues...

Leads - unless spiral core.. Could be the problem...

[mike 90 RR]

Only when hot sounds like the module on the dizzy...

Replace the module (cheap) and see how u go..

x 2 ... cool it down next it plays up ... and have a look at the rest in the mean time

[Slow Disco]

Funny!
Yes, will check these out. It's a series 2 Disco, I've got a feeling I've come accross a post re temp sensor or something?????

[Blknight.aus]

how much fuel in the tank, if the filter/ pump is having a bad time a lower fuel level means more heat in the tank and the pump isnt liking it, ditto if the filter is a bit iffy.

if the behavior changes with the tank level more than likely theres the problem

[justinc]

D2's suffer from airflow meter failures which will cause massive leanness, IE backfiring and no power. Also, the in tank pumps have been known to fail at relatively low miles due to the filter being part of the pump unit and is NOT serviceable:mad: WHAT WERE THEY THINKING!!!
They have no distributor, coils packs are at the rear of the engine behind the inlet plenum.
The airflow meter issue is so common I keep one on the shelf:(

JC

[Slow Disco]

Car has sequential injection lpg aswell - didn't want to bring this into the discussion as it is the same between petrol and lpg.
MAF - yes I know all too well about these, maf should be ok.
Filter - has one retrol fitted
I'm thinking it's a heat problem, because both times the car has sat at the shops then driven and the problem has occured. Once cooled car works well. I've been looking into getting a ECT Temp Sensor and fit it, only $60 - rather than taking to a LR guy as he'll do the same until he eventually replaces everything.
So assume car doens't have lpg - don't want to go down the whole lpg theory road, just petrol.
Thanks.

[cafaas]

After 12 years of servicing - I have found the most common cause of this has been a crappy Distributor Cap and Rotor button.
Repco swore black and blue their aftermarket bosch gear is correct. But until I fitted original LR parts these things keep dying a slow death. It will get slowly worse until it won't even start one day.

[mike 90 RR]

After 12 years of servicing - I have found the most common cause of this has been a crappy Distributor Cap and Rotor button.
Repco swore black and blue their aftermarket bosch gear is correct. But until I fitted original LR parts these things keep dying a slow death. It will get slowly worse until it won't even start one day.

No dizzy in his model ... crank sensor & coil packs ;)

[Pierre]

I'm with JC here. Could even be breaking down coil pack.

But I'd go MAF then substitute coil packs to check.

Pete

[Chase]

No knowledge of a D2 at all, but similar symtoms occurred with ignition amplifier modules getting hot with Rangies. Would have thought they'd gerried to that one by the time they made the D2's though...