In chassis bearing roll for 300TDI mains

[up2nogood]

Any reason why I wouldn't be able to change out the mains in the car without pulling the front cover and gearbox off the engine?

Will have sump off this week and was thinking I might as well check the mains and big ends while I'm in there.

On that note, are any of the bolts single use? That being for big ends and main caps.

Thanks!

[Tank]

Does the rear main cap incorporate a seal, if so it would be wise to remove and replace the seal. I use an aluminium brake shoe rivet in the oil hole in the crank journal to roll out the old bearing and roll in the new, hope this helps, Regards Frank.

[up2nogood]

I'll have a look at the assembly on the RAVE CD.........

Might just let sleeping dogs lie.......... Has good oil pressure.

[p38arover]

I use an aluminium brake shoe rivet in the oil hole in the crank journal to roll out the old bearing and roll in the new,

Cunning! I don't think I've never heard of that method. I shall remember that!

[Tank]

Ron, need to get the right size to suit crank oil hole and thickness (gap) between crank journal and block (journal), even though if the head is too thick you can always file or grind it down a bit, the soft alloy rivet wont damage the crank, most brake and clutch shops stock all sizes, even brass ones are ok, Regards frank.

[Tank]

I'll have a look at the assembly on the RAVE CD.........

Might just let sleeping dogs lie.......... Has good oil pressure.
Pull the Cap with the thrust bearing and check condition, they may be OK, Regards Frank.

[langy]

For my fellow 300tdi owner -

Have done exactly that which you were contemplating - there are some small tips:

For #5 main cap, you'll need guide plates and a big g-clamp because #5 has t-piece rubber seals- also a new set of t-seals. Smear a lot of decent silicone ( I use Dow Corning 732) as a lubricant for the seals and extra seal for the back side of the cap to the main crank seal.

Cut up hose on the threads is good.

Re sealing the sump is the important bit. I have had success with the aforesaid 732, but the important bit is that the sump and block sealing surfaces are clean - I resorted to paint thinners after I scraped them surgically clean.

As to nuts and bolts - I used mine again and they were fine. Up to you I suppose. Notice that you'll need 12 point sockets (Imperial from memory) for said nuts and bolts.

[up2nogood]

Thanks Langy, so the rear mains cap can be removed without pulling the box off and doing the rear main. Good news!
As for the G-clamp, is it that tight getting the rear cap back on with the new T-seals?
Also what miles did you change yours at and what nick were they in when they came out?

I'm only really going in as the previous owner didn't understand the importance of only using a little sealant. I think there's an entire tube hanging off this poor thing, so I want to see what's hanging off the inside before I drive it again..........

[Bigbjorn]

Does the rear main cap incorporate a seal, if so it would be wise to remove and replace the seal. I use an aluminium brake shoe rivet in the oil hole in the crank journal to roll out the old bearing and roll in the new, hope this helps, Regards Frank.

I always used a split pin to roll the bearing shells in. Bend the legs outwards and insert the closed end into the oil hole

[neil 90]

cant help with a tdi but done a few trucks in-situ, drop the fan belt off as it makes it easier to get the top shells out, you would be supprised how much the belts pull the crank up. good luck hope all goes well