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Jock The Rock
2nd February 2009, 11:33 AM
Gday

Id like to run a higher out put compressor in my Landy, as Im sick of it taking ages to pump up tyres with my ARB compressor.

On the weekend I was thinking about it and someone had an idea to run one off the engine. I dont have air conditioning so I could bolt it on there.

Can anyone tell me more about this idea or if anyone has done anything similar?

And also prices roughly?

Thanks

discowhite
2nd February 2009, 11:36 AM
do a search for endless air on a 300tdi... there are quite a few posts on this subject... ive even done one on a 3.5.

cheers phil

Offender90
2nd February 2009, 01:17 PM
isuzurover (Ben) runs a similar setup on his S2a. He uses an air conditioning compressor which is plumbed to a couple of sill tanks (his rocksliders). Airs up his tyres in no time. Perhaps send him a PM if you want more info.

I'm in the process of putting a similar setup on my 90 - I'll take some pics and post when I get home tonight.

Costwise:

S/H AC compressor ~ $80 - $100 on eBay
Getting rocksliders with sill tanks made up - From memory, approx $120 for materials, plus a weekend's worth of work welding, grinding, drilling and tapping. (Big thanks go to isuzurover for all welding work)
Hoses, hose fittings, connectors, regulator and pressure switch - Approx $150, but you may not need a regulator if you only want it as an air tank (I'll be running an ARB locker off one of them)
Getting the sliders galvanised or powder coated - I haven't enquired yet

I think I might have a Solid Edge model of the slider - It's for the 90, so different rear mount, but might give you more idea - I'll see what I can dig up when I get home.

Cheers

Bojan

Jock The Rock
2nd February 2009, 01:26 PM
isuzurover (Ben) runs a similar setup on his S2a. He uses an air conditioning compressor which is plumbed to a couple of sill tanks (his rocksliders). Airs up his tyres in no time. Perhaps send him a PM if you want more info.

I'm in the process of putting a similar setup on my 90 - I'll take some pics and post when I get home tonight.

Costwise:

S/H AC compressor ~ $80 - $100 on eBay
Getting rocksliders with sill tanks made up - From memory, approx $120 for materials, plus a weekend's worth of work welding, grinding, drilling and tapping. (Big thanks go to isuzurover for all welding work)
Hoses, hose fittings, connectors, regulator and pressure switch - Approx $150, but you may not need a regulator if you only want it as an air tank (I'll be running an ARB locker off one of them)
Getting the sliders galvanised or powder coated - I haven't enquired yet

I think I might have a Solid Edge model of the slider - It's for the 90, so different rear mount, but might give you more idea - I'll see what I can dig up when I get home.

Cheers

Bojan

Thanks pics would be great

With regards to the tank I was just flicking through some threads on this topic and one bloke had fitted an air tank up under his rear guard. I have just been working on a truck ready for scrapping for my boss and pulled off a similar tank, I may try and aquire it :)

Ill have to go back to work, with all the work about to happen with the Defender only just have enough money to cover it. This may be a project for later in the year

kenleyfred
2nd February 2009, 05:22 PM
Perhaps upgrade your compressor to the new ARB one. I also had the old one and it was far too slow. The new one is much quicker, and a similarly sized unit.
Cheers
Kenley

dullbird
2nd February 2009, 05:40 PM
bit pricey but something like this maybe

Matt Savage Land Rover Parts Engine Driven Compressor (http://www.mattsavage.com/acatalog/Engine_Driven_Compressor.html)

Slunnie
2nd February 2009, 05:47 PM
Perhaps upgrade your compressor to the new ARB one. I also had the old one and it was far too slow. The new one is much quicker, and a similarly sized unit.
Cheers
Kenley
x2

The new one is very very fast. It's a good unit also.

Jock The Rock
2nd February 2009, 06:23 PM
I have heard about the new ARB compressor, but I quite like the idea of perhaps running air tools.

As Offender90 mentioned could possibly only set me back $250-$300 so might go that option

Offender90
2nd February 2009, 09:19 PM
Hi Jock,

I've taken a few pics, but given that you have a different air tank, a schematic of the setup will probably be the most relevant (from memory):

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/7756/aircompressorsetupschemzs3.jpg

My airtanks / sliders - these are a work in progress

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/9664/img0620oe6.jpg

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/3197/img0622qn2.jpg

My existing onboard electric air compressor (originally a disco suspension compressor)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I've also got an AC compressor to go in, just haven't gotten around to putting it all together, so no photos of those. Let me know if you have any queries.

Cheers

Bojan

Jock The Rock
2nd February 2009, 09:48 PM
Thanks mate

Ill have to pool some money together after I get the roof rack finished

This will be the next big thing :)

mark2
3rd February 2009, 08:51 PM
I've just finished converting my a/c compressor to an air pump using a 135 psi off/110 psi -on pressure switch. All up cost was about $130 including moisture separator, inline oiler, air filter, pressure switch, adjustable relief valve, one way valve and misc fittings. I already had the compressor and brackets.

I'm currently running it without a tank and I find that at a 1200 rpm fast idle it pumps up tyres as fast as my 16 cfm workshop compressor. I cant believe I've been using an electric compressor for so long...

My theory is that the valves are the limiting factor in the air flow - many tyre fitters inflate tyres without the valve and then pop the valve in -they get good at it with practice...but not recommended in the bush.

You would need a tank to run air tools, but for tyre inflation, try it without a tank and see what you think. Truck wreckers are a cheap source of tanks and adding a tank later would be easy enough.

Jock The Rock
3rd February 2009, 08:56 PM
I've just finished converting my a/c compressor to an air pump using a 135 psi off/110 psi -on pressure switch. All up cost was about $130 including moisture separator, inline oiler, air filter, pressure switch, adjustable relief valve, one way valve and misc fittings. I already had the compressor and brackets.

I'm currently running it without a tank and I find that at a 1200 rpm fast idle it pumps up tyres as fast as my 16 cfm workshop compressor. I cant believe I've been using an electric compressor for so long...

My theory is that the valves are the limiting factor in the air flow - many tyre fitters inflate tyres without the valve and then pop the valve in -they get good at it with practice...but not recommended in the bush.

You would need a tank to run air tools, but for tyre inflation, try it without a tank and see what you think. Truck wreckers are a cheap source of tanks and adding a tank later would be easy enough.

Thanks mate

Yeah I have to talk to my boss about a tank, he has one off a truck.

Whats involved in converting an A/C compressor? Fairly straight forward?

I have a mate who is an apprentice fridge mechanic, who says he can get me most parts

mark2
4th February 2009, 07:33 PM
Just use the existing hoses on the compressor - one is the inlet, the other is the outlet. Cut them at a convenient location and fit hose barbs to adapt to your air fittings. Theres nothing to convert! It will work just fine as it is.

Fit a $5 inline oiler to the inlet hose and the compressor's lubrication needs will be satisfied.

This link should give you some more ideas:

On-Board-Air Using a Sanden Compressor - Jeepaholics Anonymous (http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/OBA/oba.htm)

If the setup is only for tyre inflation, you really dont need a tank to start with.

Pressure switch is available from here:

Air Compressor pressure switch 12V 110 on / 135 psi off - eBay 4x4 Accessories, Exterior, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 05-Feb-09 11:28:23 AEDST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Air-Compressor-pressure-switch-12V-110-on-135-psi-off_W0QQitemZ190283228234QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car _Parts_Accessories?hash=item190283228234&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318)

LandieMan
4th February 2009, 07:45 PM
Getting rocksliders with sill tanks made up - From memory, approx $120 for materials, plus a weekend's worth of work welding, grinding, drilling and tapping. (Big thanks go to isuzurover for all welding work)

Using the rocksliders for air tanks is a great idea. I'll have to put that one on the mods list.

Cheers, Iain

taff
6th February 2009, 07:22 PM
i've also done this mod to my county - i've put the tank on the rear wheel arch heres a pic of where the tank is and i'll take a pic of pressure switch and a/c/ comp tomorrow for ya

http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt153/taff-in-oz/county1007.jpg

LOVEMYRANGIE
6th February 2009, 08:49 PM
isuzurover (Ben) runs a similar setup on his S2a. He uses an air conditioning compressor which is plumbed to a couple of sill tanks (his rocksliders). Airs up his tyres in no time. Perhaps send him a PM if you want more info.

I'm in the process of putting a similar setup on my 90 - I'll take some pics and post when I get home tonight.

Costwise:

S/H AC compressor ~ $80 - $100 on eBay
Getting rocksliders with sill tanks made up - From memory, approx $120 for materials, plus a weekend's worth of work welding, grinding, drilling and tapping. (Big thanks go to isuzurover for all welding work)
Hoses, hose fittings, connectors, regulator and pressure switch - Approx $150, but you may not need a regulator if you only want it as an air tank (I'll be running an ARB locker off one of them)
Getting the sliders galvanised or powder coated - I haven't enquired yet

I think I might have a Solid Edge model of the slider - It's for the 90, so different rear mount, but might give you more idea - I'll see what I can dig up when I get home.

Cheers

Bojan

Get hold of a Sanden compressor. These are an 8 piston type and pump REEEEALLL quick.
I just had my A/C fixed last weekend and the guy who did it for me swapped compressors even gave me my old unit back with the housings from the exhange unit as a complete compressor! All i need to do is mount it somehow!

You just run a fused switch to the dash and turn it on when you need it or wire in a pressure switch in between and put in a tank so it runs just the same as a normal compressor.
When I mentioned to the A/C guy about what i wanted to do with it, he suggested the Sanden over a York type compressor.

Just make sure you have good filtration on the air inlet and maybe oil it every now and again and you got more air than you will ever need!

Cheers

Andrew.

roverrescue
10th February 2009, 11:50 PM
I found the easiest way to both supply oiled and filtered air to me air compressor was to T into the PCV to inlet manifold hose after the cyclone. Enough misted engine oil to keep comp happy and filtered air. Works well. A 150psi pressure relief valve can be screwed into the pressure switch port of a standard A/C dryer from the outlet port which means you hit the switch to engage the clutch, when the tank and lines are filled to 150psi the pressure relief lets go and you can switch off or use the air as needed.

If its a 300tdi engine the A/C will bolt on nicely and the idler bracket is easy to obtain, maybe get a wrecker A/C, idler, belt and dryer from a disco that is getting parted.

S

isuzurover
11th February 2009, 12:17 AM
Get hold of a Sanden compressor. These are an 8 piston type and pump REEEEALLL quick.
I just had my A/C fixed last weekend and the guy who did it for me swapped compressors even gave me my old unit back with the housings from the exhange unit as a complete compressor! All i need to do is mount it somehow!

You just run a fused switch to the dash and turn it on when you need it or wire in a pressure switch in between and put in a tank so it runs just the same as a normal compressor.
When I mentioned to the A/C guy about what i wanted to do with it, he suggested the Sanden over a York type compressor.

Just make sure you have good filtration on the air inlet and maybe oil it every now and again and you got more air than you will ever need!

Cheers

Andrew.

Thanks Bojan. Your diagram is not 100% - will correct it when I have a moment. Both air tanks run at the same pressure (120psi), but I have a regulated 15psi supply to operate the Maxi-Drive. There is also a one-way valve in there...

Andrew - the York compressor is MUCH better than the sandan. It has a higher flow rate AND it has a seperate sump so the oil stays in - meaning you don't need oil recirculation or a tool oiler inline.

That said, there is nothing wrong with a sandan if you can't fit a york in. I have a Sandan 508 (the larger sandan) waiting to go in the 110.

MinniTheMoocha
25th April 2009, 09:05 PM
Does anyone have an endless air type system as well as still have the A/C fitted?

Is it at all possible with a 300Tdi Defender?

Pictures of the brackets would be great if anyone has them.

Thanks

Blknight.aus
25th April 2009, 10:11 PM
yep theres just enough room to top mount a second compressor over the original compressor but only on the engines with real fan belts and not the big elastic bands.

change the front pully and clutch assembly over for a double pully unit and run a small belt from the normal one to the top one.

Offender90
26th April 2009, 08:57 AM
Thanks Bojan. Your diagram is not 100% - will correct it when I have a moment. Both air tanks run at the same pressure (120psi), but I have a regulated 15psi supply to operate the Maxi-Drive. There is also a one-way valve in there...

One way valve, that's what I'm forgetting... By the way, my previous post wasnt very clear, but the diagram was what my setup will eventually look like... Well, that was the plan with an ARB locker in it anyway, but of course that's now chaged - I'll be running both tanks at 120psi now.


yep theres just enough room to top mount a second compressor over the original compressor but only on the engines with real fan belts and not the big elastic bands.

change the front pully and clutch assembly over for a double pully unit and run a small belt from the normal one to the top one.

Thanks Dave, will have to have a look into that.

Cheers

Bojan

scott oz
26th April 2009, 06:23 PM
My existing onboard electric air compressor (originally a disco suspension compressor)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Bojan[/quote]


Offender can you tell me about the using the Disco suspension compressor. I've got a 110 TD5 and am looking to run an ARB locker and also do the tyres. How do you find it at tyre pumping.

Blknight.aus
26th April 2009, 06:44 PM
if you get one of the york reciprocating style compressors (be it a danfos, nipondenso or other) they have their own internal oil reserve and dont need the oiler.

and the compressor from the EAS of any of them will work well as a tyre compressor and better than a lot of the other electrical ones out there so long as you dont try to over do it on the duty cycle.

Offender90
26th April 2009, 08:09 PM
My existing onboard electric air compressor (originally a disco suspension compressor)

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/1149/img0630ii2.jpg

Bojan


Offender can you tell me about the using the Disco suspension compressor. I've got a 110 TD5 and am looking to run an ARB locker and also do the tyres. How do you find it at tyre pumping.[/QUOTE]

Its quite slow compared to an engine driven one (but which electric compressor isn't?) Otherwise great! Its quiet as a church mouse - I'm using the original rubber isolator mounts on mine. They sit on two brackets I made up, which are riveted to the firewall. It's difficult to see in the photo, but the top bracket is an upside down "J" shape, while the bottom one is C shaped, with the compressor body sitting in the "C" opening. I didn't take any pics when I was doing it, but I hope that explains it.

I imagine you'd want to use an air tank if powering a locker - it will also help speed up tyre inflation.

Cheers

Bojan

MinniTheMoocha
26th April 2009, 10:35 PM
yep theres just enough room to top mount a second compressor over the original compressor but only on the engines with real fan belts and not the big elastic bands.

change the front pully and clutch assembly over for a double pully unit and run a small belt from the normal one to the top one.

I have the serpentine type of belt is that what you mean by a "real fan belt"?

Are there any photos etc of the said setup?

I have had a quick look and it seems possible that you could put another compressor next to the A/C although tight but it would be an extremely tight fit if mounted on top as it looks like the bonnet would not close. And how do you tension it?

Am I missing something?

Thanks

Blknight.aus
26th April 2009, 10:57 PM
you make up a bracket to deal with the tensioning...

and no the serpentine belt is the big elastic band and the real fan belts are the older v belts.

you can get double belt pullies on the clutches to suit the compressors but Ive not worked out how to do it with the lacky bands short of doubling the pumps up and then putting on a longer belt and then letting the tensioner deal with it.

to power it all go get a cheap compressor from somewhere like cashies or a garage sale, rat the pressure switch and the safety valve and you can use that to control the compressor. Dead 2.5kg gas bottles make excelent bottles for the deefer as they just fit up behind the rear guards and you can just sneak it over the top of the A frame as well as along side the center support member.

follow the thread IVe got going on about 12v compressors, IVe got the electrics just about done on that and will be posting up more pics just as soon as I get my high speed net back.

Jock The Rock
27th April 2009, 06:41 AM
if you get one of the york reciprocating style compressors (be it a danfos, nipondenso or other) they have their own internal oil reserve and dont need the oiler.

and the compressor from the EAS of any of them will work well as a tyre compressor and better than a lot of the other electrical ones out there so long as you dont try to over do it on the duty cycle.

Gday Dave

Would one of these fit on a 300 Tdi? :twisted:

eBay Motors: JEEP YORK ON BOARD AIR COMPRESSOR WITH CLUTCH NEW (item 180291526432 end time May-18-09 12:10:48 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-YORK-ON-BOARD-AIR-COMPRESSOR-WITH-CLUTCH-NEW_W0QQitemZ180291526432QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item180291526432&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A131 8)

D110V8D
27th April 2009, 07:33 AM
I've just recently done this on my 110. I would have done a tutorial but........I didn't.:D

It's very straight forward whatever compressor you choose to use. I read the thread tutorial put up by 200tdi and just went from there. I had a compressor (cheap Bunnings type compressor) that I used as the tank, pressure switch, regulator assembly. I bought an in line oiler from Bunnings as well.

I didn't use a cooling coil because I didn't have anything suitable and it hasn't affected it.

1st pic is my compressor. It's a 96 Disco motor so it's running a serpentine belt and the denso compressor. I grabbed the top plate and hose ends off a BMW at pick a part because they're a better position than the disco ones. You can see the power line from the pressure switch located in the rear of the vehicle. I earthed it (black wire) to the quater panel.

Also on the inlet line I put an in line air tool oiler to lubricate the compressor and I re-used the air filter that was on the 240 volt bunnings compressor as well. Sorry I didn't get a pic of it.:(
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/227/dsc00050l.th.jpg (http://img19.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00050l.jpg)
Then just a hose clamp straight onto the air line hose.
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/2094/dsc00051rpj.th.jpg (http://img527.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00051rpj.jpg)
To the in line filter. It's a reg as well but I just use it as a filter cause I had one there.
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9333/dsc00052x.th.jpg (http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00052x.jpg)
Run the hose all the way to the tank. At the tank I have removed the original motor etc and left the pressure switch etc in place. Run a wire back to the switch on the compressor. From the rear wiring loom I just spliced into a line for the wiper motor.
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/2022/dsc00053owl.th.jpg (http://img512.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00053owl.jpg)

Pull up on the switch at the tank with engine running and it'll fill the whole thing in 30 seconds or so although I haven't actually timed it. It's bloody quick though. It'll run rattle guns and all sorts of air tools as well as pumping up tires in seconds. Too easy!:)

Blknight.aus
27th April 2009, 05:36 PM
Gday Dave

Would one of these fit on a 300 Tdi? :twisted:

eBay Motors: JEEP YORK ON BOARD AIR COMPRESSOR WITH CLUTCH NEW (item 180291526432 end time May-18-09 12:10:48 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-YORK-ON-BOARD-AIR-COMPRESSOR-WITH-CLUTCH-NEW_W0QQitemZ180291526432QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item180291526432&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A131 8)

erm,,,,

untill i get off of cripple net I cant get to evilbay so..
yes no maybe.

Jock The Rock
27th April 2009, 07:59 PM
erm,,,,

untill i get off of cripple net I cant get to evilbay so..
yes no maybe.

Bugger let me know what you think when you get a chance to look at it :)

Thanks

Blknight.aus
27th April 2009, 09:01 PM
got it up, yep thats what your after but not at that price....

a thorough search of a truck wreckers or older car wreckers will yield you a "dead" aircon compressor, IF you know what to look for you nab the one thats the reciprocator type and convert it to what you need, the clutch and pully usually just unbolts from the front.

The reciprocating piston job and rotary fixed plate jobs have an internal oil resivior and dont intentionally pump oil through the gas side whereas the rotory vane type and the scroll type compressor rely on pumping some lubrication on the gas side to stop them from wearing out. These are the ones that must have a lubrication mod or oiler put on the front end of them to see a long life. (an oil does extend the life of the otherones as well.)

While the fixed swash plate jobs undoubtedly shift more gas and run a higher pressure they also have more moving parts and if you get a dodgy ring on a piston they can hydraulic themselves if youve left it to sit with the dodgy piston in the bottom position.

Jock The Rock
28th April 2009, 04:23 PM
got it up, yep thats what your after but not at that price....

a thorough search of a truck wreckers or older car wreckers will yield you a "dead" aircon compressor, IF you know what to look for you nab the one thats the reciprocator type and convert it to what you need, the clutch and pully usually just unbolts from the front.

The reciprocating piston job and rotary fixed plate jobs have an internal oil resivior and dont intentionally pump oil through the gas side whereas the rotory vane type and the scroll type compressor rely on pumping some lubrication on the gas side to stop them from wearing out. These are the ones that must have a lubrication mod or oiler put on the front end of them to see a long life. (an oil does extend the life of the otherones as well.)

While the fixed swash plate jobs undoubtedly shift more gas and run a higher pressure they also have more moving parts and if you get a dodgy ring on a piston they can hydraulic themselves if youve left it to sit with the dodgy piston in the bottom position.

Awesome :)

Thanks mate, I'll keep my eye out and let you know when I find one. If you happen to find one could you let me know

Thanks :twobeers:

DeeJay
28th April 2009, 09:56 PM
I,ve done a couple of engine driven compressors. The first was a Magna air compressor. I reckon it pumped up over 100 tyres without touching it maintenance wise. The misty mountain air around here makes a water seperator a necessity.
Also I found by trial & error, you need a fair bit of distance between the compressor & any barb fittings. I used flanged copper pipe to dissapate the heat- about 200mm then a flexible hose.
I reckon this one -from the Jeep link earlier- will pop off with serious work.

http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/OBA/images/fromrear.jpg

Yorkshire_Jon
1st May 2009, 05:12 AM
Has anyone got any pictures of a TD5 with aircon and an endless-air compressor...mounted at the same time??

I reckon the endless-air could go in where the ACE (??) unit goes on the Disco TD5 (ie below the aircon pump). Probably need to move a few pipes out of the way first though, then design a carrier bracket for the endless-air.

Jock The Rock
3rd May 2009, 02:02 PM
I managed to get hold of a pressure tank today :D

Fella I know is a diesel mechanic

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1139.jpg

Blknight.aus
3rd May 2009, 04:49 PM
I managed to get hold of a pressure tank today :D

Fella I know is a diesel mechanic

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1139.jpg

cool, hit him up again, and get an auto drain valve.

fit the compressor feed on one side of the tank, the outlet on the other and put the ADV on the bottom. then you generally dont have to worry about water getting in your tyres or in your tools.

Jock The Rock
3rd May 2009, 06:12 PM
cool, hit him up again, and get an auto drain valve.

fit the compressor feed on one side of the tank, the outlet on the other and put the ADV on the bottom. then you generally dont have to worry about water getting in your tyres or in your tools.

I'll ask him about it next time I see him

Lucky bugger has a York Compressor just like what I want bolted on his Rangie :(

Blknight.aus
3rd May 2009, 06:17 PM
so, unbolt it.
:wasntme:

Jock The Rock
3rd May 2009, 06:27 PM
so, unbolt it.
:wasntme:

:twisted: I like you're thinking :D

Well his Rangie isn't going at the moment (smashed gearbox) so I spose he wouldn't notice :angel:

MinniTheMoocha
6th May 2009, 10:18 AM
Can the York fit in next to the A/C of the 300Tdi? It looks so tall and square.

Jock when you get around to yours please include photos of the install.

I intend to eventually do one as well but it wont be for 6 months or so.

Thanks

Yorkshire_Jon
6th May 2009, 02:46 PM
The York will onlt fit on a 200tdi. 300Tdi and TD5 need the clapper board style compressors, i.e. Sanden / Denso / EndlessAir.

Jock The Rock
6th May 2009, 03:24 PM
Can the York fit in next to the A/C of the 300Tdi? It looks so tall and square.

Jock when you get around to yours please include photos of the install.

I intend to eventually do one as well but it wont be for 6 months or so.

Thanks


Yeah mate sure can, I don't have factory AC so hopefully it will fit


The York will onlt fit on a 200tdi. 300Tdi and TD5 need the clapper board style compressors, i.e. Sanden / Denso / EndlessAir.

Bugger I don't have factory AC will it make a difference?

And just as I tracked down a good one too. Would $150 be a decent price do you reckon? Its off an old old Jeep Cherokee so the only problem is it has the double V pulley on it.

What do you reckon Dave? Will it work?

I'm tempted to get it and see if I can modify it or make a mount to fit, I'm sure someone on here will take it off my hands if it doesn't work.

I notice that it is mounted diagonally in the Jeep so I reckon it would fit if I were too make up a mount to suit

Any thought?

Thanks

Blknight.aus
6th May 2009, 07:12 PM
should work, grab a factory aircon mount, clone the engine side of it, adapt the compressor side to suit your compressor.

pull the clutch mech off of a crashed vehicles aircon, string the belt path to work out the new belt size and your about set.

Jock The Rock
6th May 2009, 08:25 PM
should work, grab a factory aircon mount, clone the engine side of it, adapt the compressor side to suit your compressor.

pull the clutch mech off of a crashed vehicles aircon, string the belt path to work out the new belt size and your about set.

Does the clutch matter if its off a Landy or not?

Will any 6 V Serpentine pulley work?

Blknight.aus
10th May 2009, 09:06 PM
nope any clutch setup thats eletrically controlled will work and any 6v serpentine pully will do the job.

Jock The Rock
13th June 2009, 05:29 PM
Got one :D

Just trying to track down a rebuild kit at the moment

It's going to be a tight fit to get it in, but I'll do it :)

It's not possible to fit the upright, so I'll have to fit it on its side. I guess this can't affect it seeing as thats how it was on the Jeep :)

Here's the pics:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/873.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/874.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/875.jpg

Jock The Rock
17th June 2009, 09:23 PM
Well after much TLC (wire brush, toothbrush and petrol :twisted: ) it cleaned up well. I pulled the sump off for a squiz, all looked good so I just made up another gasket and bolted it back on.

I pulled the head off, that looked good, except for a little bit of rust :(

It was $80 just for the gasket kit from America, so I thought bugger that for a joke. It doesn't look like its done much work anyway

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/619.jpg

I spotted a compressor at work the other day in the scrap bin, it had a serpentine clutch so I'll be grabbing that either tomorrow or Monday :)

Here's where it will be sitting, just have to make up a mount sometime. I reckon I'll borrow the one off dads Defender and make a slightly modified copy

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/620.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/621.jpg

MinniTheMoocha
20th June 2009, 08:24 AM
I am very envious of the compressor. If only it would fit with an AC fitted!

Will keep working at getting either an endless air or retro fitting an A/C style compressor.

isuzurover
20th June 2009, 07:22 PM
I am very envious of the compressor. If only it would fit with an AC fitted!

Will keep working at getting either an endless air or retro fitting an A/C style compressor.

I have a york on the IIA, but no way it will fit on the 110 (4BD1T). I have seen an AC compressor mounted to the back of an LT230 t-case and driven by PTO. You could also drive it from a pulley sandwiched between the rear prop and the handbrake, but you would need an air tank large enough to inflate 4 tyreas at once - unless you had a divorced t-case.

Jock The Rock
20th June 2009, 07:25 PM
I have a york on the IIA, but no way it will fit on the 110 (4BD1T). I have seen an AC compressor mounted to the back of an LT230 t-case and driven by PTO. You could also drive it from a pulley sandwiched between the rear prop and the handbrake, but you would need an air tank large enough to inflate 4 tyreas at once - unless you had a divorced t-case.

I'm having troubles finding a serpentine clutch to suit the 300 Tdi. So far $200 is the lowest price I've found :(

That one at work ended up being a V-belt

Might have to look into the T-case options

Jock The Rock
28th July 2009, 06:18 AM
What do you think of doing this Dave?

Machining a Dual V-belt York Pulley to Fit 6-Groove Serpentine Belt (http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARyorkPulley/YorkPulley.htm)

LOVEMYRANGIE
28th July 2009, 08:16 PM
The only thing with mounting the York compressor on its side, is that all the oil ends up in the back of the pistons, that why York compressors are always installed upright hence the mounting built in to the side.
If/when oil bypasses the rings, its going to rocket out the outlet or get slapped around inside the crankcase and cause a hell of a stress on the pump in general.

I would be very very wary about doing this.

Personally, a Sanden or similar would be a much easier and straight forward option.

As for the serpentine link Jock, multirib belts need to have all grooves supported, not just the middle grooves. If just the centre is supported, the tension across the belt face will be unequal causing the belt to stretch in the middle and will strip centre out leaving a nasty mess under the bonnet. Just get a pulley to match. Try companies like COOL DRIVE. (http://www.cooldrive.com.au/contact.aspx) They should be able to give you a place to start looking. Even use their advice for part number and fitment then try around wreckers etc.

Not to rain on anyones parade, but.......

Cheers

Andrew

Jock The Rock
29th July 2009, 03:46 AM
Thanks for the reply mate

But... the motor I pulled the compressor off was a V8 out of Jeep Cherokee

The compressor was mounted on its side there

I did think the same, and I'm still a bit dubious about doing it like that, but where else can I put it. I was thinking about mounting it to a PTO. But for that do I need the linkages for the back of the TC etc?

An AC belt on a 300 Tdi is only roughly half the width of a standard serpentine belt so I was thinking that idea might work. I know a fella who is a machinist by trade, I'll ask him next time I see him

Thanks for the contact I'll try them

roverrescue
29th July 2009, 09:01 AM
Jock could you maybe emulate the A/C belt setup from stock?

The main fan hub has the machined pulley for the thinner 4pk belt as does the crank.
You would just need a tensioner pulley, easy enough to make a pivot plate and spigot off the IP cover with three bolts. I believe the pulley on the AC tensioner is same as VS Bombadore so easy enough to get he 4pk pulley?

Then get you machinist mate to turn the existing YORK pulley/clutch to 4pk it should have the width for that?

I know you already have the compressor but if it gets too hard, grab a compressor, dryer (allows use of pressure relief valve into high pressure side) and idler pulley from a disco... Thats what my deefer runs, just bolts straight up.
22L air tank under the sill, compressor runs at 145psi (just above idle) more than enough poke for air tools and the tyre valves limit your air up time?

Steve

Jock The Rock
29th July 2009, 03:42 PM
Thats what I plan on doing, I just have to get hold of an idler

If they are the same as the VS then I might go and check out the wreckers later this week, thanks for that :)

I'll have a chat to the fella next time I see him and see what he thinks

Then I just have to make up the mount

Jock The Rock
16th August 2009, 07:23 PM
Had a chat to the fella today he reckons that the pulley itself won't have enough thickness to machine down and put a Serpentine pattern on. Now I think about it, seeing as the belt is only a 4v; by just machining the centle notch down that would be wide enough. Wouldn't it?

He suggested running it off the PTO, I would like to do this so that I always have the option of running a hyraulic pump or similar for other accessories.

Anyone have any idea how much the setup that Maxi Drive supplies is?

Thanks