Loose TD5 radiator fan pulley??

[Frontier1]

Hi All,

Anyone know whats involved (including parts and costs) on replacing on what i assume is a partly collapsed radiator pulley bearing?

An hour from home, coming back from a trip to Gold Coast and back to Central Coast, started hearing a god awful noise from the engine bay. I find that the radiator fan pulley is loose enough that the back of the radiator fan blades have been knocking against various things.

I've gotten home but now need to know whether this is something that I can do myself (I have done this on a '93 Disco' which meant also replacing water pump), but I imagine it's a bit different on a TD5 2002.

Are there special tools required, can i do the replacing of the bearing, etc., without removing the radiator or what?

Cheers in advance.

Pete'

[Psimpson7]

Hi Pete,

When you say the fan bearing, do you mean the hub in the centre of the fan, or what it bolts too?

Rgds
Pete.

[Frontier1]

Hi Pete'

Yeah, I am referring to the viscous fan/ idler pulley. When I hold the radiator fan, I can move the pulley, although the three cowling bolts are tight as well as the large nut that holds the fan on.

I imagine that this is only possible because the bearing in behind all of that is partially broken.

Please don't tell me that in order to replace what must be a bearing job requires the removal of the radiator. I got the workshop manual and I can't determine if thats what i have to do. The local LR guy is quoting me a worse case scenario of $1100 and 2 days work!

Pete'

[BilboBoggles]

The bearing can be replaced in situ, with little dissasembly other than serpentine belt removal.

The worst case scenario is to remove and replace the timing cover. Up until recently this was the only official fix for this. But you can now order the bearing as a spare part from land rover. Beware if the bearing siezes and spins then it shags the timing cover, if that happens then it's new timing cover time, which involves a head gasket etc. So better to do it asap.

The bearing is expensive though - around $190.

Apparently if you run the engine till it's warm and put the bearing in the freezer over night, then it is a very easy sliding fit. The main dealer did my bearing for about $290 including labour. I paid a local Land Rover specialist $450 to do the same job, and the bearing re shagged it self in 5000k's.

In my opinion, One of the causes of this bearing to die is a worn viscous fan clutch - mine died because I let it go with play in the visocus coupling for a few months.

[Psimpson7]

Hi Pete,

Right, I dont think you will need to remove the Rad.

Remove the top cover, and then teh fan. This is a normal thread. You will need a big spanner... (I enlarged a Ford Falcon viscous fan spanner)

The part numbers as far as i can see are:

Bearing - roller - ERR5285
Flange adaptor - ERR7043
Shaft assy - ERR7042
Circlip - CR110625

Timing cover is LJR103670 but you shouldnt need that.

I dont have a scanner of I would scan the parts book page.

Numbers are for a <2002 td5

[Shaker]

You can definitely get the fan & coupling off easily enough, just needa 36mm spanner, you may have to remove one of the 3 pulley bolts to get the spanner on because it will be thicker than the 'service tool'.

[Frontier1]

Thanks guys, just the news I wanted to hear!

I'll pop down to the local bearing place in the morning and see what they have to suit those part numbers.

I'm sure that they will need to see the parts though.

Any other tips for the job, please let me know.

Cheers, Pete'

[stevo]

I did mine a week ago, with out a 36 mm spanner or special tool but I did have to heat up the hub to get it to unscrew it was loctited on and very hard to move till the heat was applied, I can lend you the heating tip this also helps to heat up the timing cover to get the bearing in.
Another tip is put the shaft in the freezer and leave the new bearing in the sun it just falls on. also a 12 mm allen head socket will help as well can lend this as well,
I live in Ascot at the moment

[Frontier1]

Well once I got the belt away from the pulley, the whole assembly (pulley, fan, etc.), just dropped away.
The attached pic shows a few ball bearings just sitting there.

Now I am hoping that once I can get the circlip out (which isn't moving), the outer bearing race will come out and that I can also get the inner race off.

Talk about testing one's patience!

Pete'

[Koukandowie Brangus]

is that the egr valve pipe in the top of the picture?? might aswell buy a blanking kit for that and change it whilst you are there, not that expensive and when you look inside the valve:eek: very much worth it.

[Frontier1]

Hi TREX,

Yeah I want to but I've been running eth-bio 100% for a few months now without any dramas. (pulleys/bearings don't count :D )

I don't want to change anything just in case it changes the results which will give the nay sayers something to grab onto in the event that somthing stuffs up. Or if nothing goes wrong, they might say "well that's because you blanked off the egr mate" and they'll use the argument that you need to change things in order to run bio.

I take it you have yours changed? What were the immediate results for you?

Pete'

[Koukandowie Brangus]

Pete, I didn't have any noticeable results as my egr valve hadn't started sticking yet however it was full of black sticky soot, and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that having that running back through your engine can't be good for it. Others have said that they have had better breathing and increased power but this only comes if the egr had been faulty.

[Frontier1]

OK, I can't get this outer race out of the cover and I do not want to pull the entire timing cover off for obvious reasons.

Have heard that running a weld around the inside of a race will make it shrink. Any thoughts on this? I have a mig and might give this a go.

Also I thought about using a flywheel puller but the one I have, the centre bolt would have to push against the back of the cover behind the race and I assume that's just a welsh plug so if too much pressure gets applied i imagine it would pop.

Any other ideas?:mad:

[stevo]

yes welding the inside will shrink the race after that would be to get a die grinder and grind a slot into it also maybe weld a strip oo metal or a bolt across it so you can then use a bar to lever it out??

[stevo]

oops the oo should be of, a couple of glasses wine :twobeers:did not help

[Bundalene]

OK, I can't get this outer race out of the cover and I do not want to pull the entire timing cover off for obvious reasons.

Have heard that running a weld around the inside of a race will make it shrink. Any thoughts on this? I have a mig and might give this a go.

Also I thought about using a flywheel puller but the one I have, the centre bolt would have to push against the back of the cover behind the race and I assume that's just a welsh plug so if too much pressure gets applied i imagine it would pop.

Any other ideas?:mad:

I don't think it is good practice welding anything on the TD5, especially with a MIG - to much risk of destroying all sorts of electronic components.

Erich.

[Psimpson7]

If you do weld on it, I would disconect the ECU, battery leads and the 3AS unit (immobiliser green box) at least

They arent that prone to issues with welding but I have heard of a few failures of the 3AS units

[BilboBoggles]

Just a suggestion - If you can heat the timing cover if you have a hot air gun, and if you can get hold of a can of spray freezer - perhaps heat the timing cover and freeze the bearing. I've seen that work before.

Personally i'd be a little cautious of welding the race - if the hot race expands enough would it distort the timing cover? On my timing cover the new bearing ended up being loose in the cover and seemed to have thrashed itself to bits fairly quickly.

[Frontier1]

Well I got the race out. I carefully ran a mig weld around the inside of the race then let it cool. then using a small crowbar on the back of the weld ridge I was able to move out the race enough to get a small flywheel puller behind it and extract out the race.

I've run some 1200 over the inside of the housing where the race sat and it all feels fine.

Now it's off to the local bearing shop to see what they have to suit. Fingers crossed!

Oh, yeah, I disconnected the battery, etc. first!:D

Cheers, Pete'

[Frontier1]

Ok, got a replacement bearing for the LR one which was $190. The replacement is a UBC 5206 2RS and set me back $24.50. Hopefully if this happens to someone else, you'll be able to use this part number to save yourself some bucks.

Everything went back together without a hitch and I'm back up and running until the next thing occurs.

Thanks to all for the tips, hints and suggestions.:D

Cheers,