Oil pump bolt

[Resection]

Hello All.

Just spent the afternoon in Adelaide heat dealing with the bolt issue.
TD5 D2, manual-ACE 07/1999 (definitely in risk zone), 259,500kms.
Thanks to all contributors on this issue. Easy fix, just takes some time-2hrs and is a bit messy. Bolt was not sloppy-loose but not much more than finger-tight either. Signs of degraded thread lock on last 2 threads, oil in start of thread of bolt (thanks to Solihul's finest here...)
Cleaned out with same CRC electrical cleaner that's used for oil-in-loom-ECU pins job and compressed air. Used Loctite 243. Tie ACE pipe and gearbox cooler lines back with string, exhaust pipe pulled towards chassis slightly with ratchet strap for working space. Also found the little black plastic knob that is supposed to be on end of oil dipstick in sump!!! but minimal metallic debris or other gunk otherwise.
Sump gasket part no. LVF 5400, Centrifical filter return gasket part no. LRJ 100000, both genuine, close-fitting parts, total cost $90 from well known LR dismantler in Adelaide's southern suburbs. Got a quote of $500 from a inner south LR dealership for this repair!
The time bomb was ticking. Just glad I dealt with it, its an easy fix for peace of mind sake. If you are unsure, just do it.
Best regards, Jason

[Rosscoe68]

yep, got mine back today, 2002 TD5 DII with 180k on it, no loctite and bolt was not much tighter than finger tight as well. also tightened up all the front diff banjo bolts, apparently all were only finger tight and the banjo could be rotated about 2 or 3 mm. that was another lucky catch. few other bolts were also loose here and there, i guess from the cape york run last year. another interesting side was the coolant had leaked down by most of the hose at the clamps and set a crusty almost corrosive lump on the alloy fittings. it was genuine OAT red coolant and mechanic said its just no good. he changed me to green V2 coolant.

[CraigE]

Hello All.

Just spent the afternoon in Adelaide heat dealing with the bolt issue.
TD5 D2, manual-ACE 07/1999 (definitely in risk zone), 259,500kms.
Thanks to all contributors on this issue. Easy fix, just takes some time-2hrs and is a bit messy. Bolt was not sloppy-loose but not much more than finger-tight either. Signs of degraded thread lock on last 2 threads, oil in start of thread of bolt (thanks to Solihul's finest here...)
Cleaned out with same CRC electrical cleaner that's used for oil-in-loom-ECU pins job and compressed air. Used Loctite 243. Tie ACE pipe and gearbox cooler lines back with string, exhaust pipe pulled towards chassis slightly with ratchet strap for working space. Also found the little black plastic knob that is supposed to be on end of oil dipstick in sump!!! but minimal metallic debris or other gunk otherwise.
Sump gasket part no. LVF 5400, Centrifical filter return gasket part no. LRJ 100000, both genuine, close-fitting parts, total cost $90 from well known LR dismantler in Adelaide's southern suburbs. Got a quote of $500 from a inner south LR dealership for this repair!
The time bomb was ticking. Just glad I dealt with it, its an easy fix for peace of mind sake. If you are unsure, just do it.
Best regards, Jason

Yep,
Its not really a hard or dear job to do yourself, can be a bit messy. $500 is a bit over the top. Should be $300 for a competent workshop I would have thought, $100 for parts and $200 for labour, but you may need to add oil and filters to that if a service is occuring, so ifit was with a service $500 may be right. With the hoist and all the right tools should not take them more than 2 hrs for that job alone, but JC may be able to shed more light on that side of things.

[Psimpson7]

I checked mine a few months ago. about 90k km at the time on an 01.

Bolt was fairly tight, but no loctite.

Re the cost Craig, I would always change the oil. Surely people don't do this and re-use the old oil...? so I reckon $500 is reasonable providing they do both filters, oil , and sump gasket.

If a garage did it and didn't change the oil and filters I wouldn't be happy.

[mousie]

Did we all hit the sump bolt issue together as last Saturday did mine. 5/00 build with 158K and tight but no evidence of loctite at all, oil up to the first two threads. I had not used the disco for a week so the oil dripping was not really a problem. Bolt was close to tight torque but once you break the hold, unwind with fingers here.

Being a tight ****, I just used the existing gasket as was in good nick for now!

I imagine once you do it once, the speed of doing this again will be half the time as just awkard without damaging surfaces and collector pipe.

[CraigE]

I checked mine a few months ago. about 90k km at the time on an 01.

Bolt was fairly tight, but no loctite.

Re the cost Craig, I would always change the oil. Surely people don't do this and re-use the old oil...? so I reckon $500 is reasonable providing they do both filters, oil , and sump gasket.

If a garage did it and didn't change the oil and filters I wouldn't be happy.

Yeah, I generally agree but it all depends on the situation. If just the oil was replaced it should add no more than another $50 max. If a complete service was done at the same time then $500 may be fair.
There are some exceptions to this and I have done it though rare eg I have filled the sump with full synthetic oil at $80 to find a leak or an out of shape sump (replacement sump) and have dumped the oil into a clean container, strained and reused, engine was never started. If I had recently changed the filters I have changed the oil but not replaced the filters (eg when I did my oil pump bolt and was my intermediate 5000km service).
Cheers
Craig