2.25 Petrol Servicing - A Dummies Guide...

[Shonky]

I want to give Ambrose a good service before the 2 day trek down to Corowa, but I want to be sure I have all my bases covered.

If I may, I will go over what I think I need to do and how I would do it, and those of you who know better can explain what I don't know, expand on what I do know and expend what I shouldn't know. :)

2 other brief questions:
Is there any particular start point with servicing?!
Any recommendations on brands and suppliers of consumables?


Okay, here goes... :D

ENGINE:

1. Engine Oil and Filter change.
- run engine until warm
- Remove sump plug and drain oil
- remove oil filter
- replace sump plug
- fit new filter (type? brand? where from?)
- fill engine (through which cap?) with engine oil (type? brand?)

2. Cooling system flush.
- remove bottom hose
- drain coolant/water
- remove top hose at radiator end
- with a hose, flush water through top hose through water pump etc (is there any right direction to do this?)
- flush radiator
- replace hoses if required (they are)
- refill with water? or coolant? (which one and if coolant, what type?)

3. check valve / tappet clearances (I may be blind, but I couldn't find it in the service book...)
- remover rocker cover
- use appropriate size (which is?) feeler guage to check clearances between the thingos
- adjust if necessary by tightening or loosening the nuts on the other side to the thingos.
- ?

4. Air cleaner clean and overhaul
- remove air cleaner
- dismantle and drain oil
- clean element with fresh fuel
- refill with motor oil to required level (any specific oil?)

5. Check timing (this is in the manual somewhere, but just checking)
- with a timing light?
- align mark with top dead centre? +/- ?
- anything else?

6. replace plugs and leads
- plugs easy
- leads easy, but what type?
- is it worth replacing the coil?

7. check compression
- do I need to? How? what do I do about it if it is off? (big job to rectify right?)

8. Distributor
- worth replacing points? rotor? anything else?

9. Fuel system
- disconnect either end and blow out with compressed air
- clean sediment bowl
- check for leaks
- check Carby (see above)


OTHER:

1. Gearbox Oil change
- warm up box
- drain oil
- refil
* any tricks with getting the oil from bottle to box? What about T/Case?

2. Diff and Swivel oil change
- drive to warm up
- drain oil
- refill (what oil, and how do I get it in without it going everywhere?!)

3. brakes
- just top up fluid? Do I need to bleed or flush?
- pads are good, although the front left is dragging a tiny bit. Do I just play with the adjusting bolt on the backing plate until it stops? :confused: I could just leave it... :angel:

4. Universals
- clean off excess crud
- grease 'em up (just fill them or should grease force out the edges?


Is there anything else I should do? :confused:

[JDNSW]

I want to give Ambrose a good service before the 2 day trek down to Corowa, but I want to be sure I have all my bases covered.

If I may, I will go over what I think I need to do and how I would do it, and those of you who know better can explain what I don't know, expand on what I do know and expend what I shouldn't know. :)

2 other brief questions:
Is there any particular start point with servicing?!
Any recommendations on brands and suppliers of consumables?


Okay, here goes... :D

ENGINE:

1. Engine Oil and Filter change.
- run engine until warm
- Remove sump plug and drain oil
- remove oil filter
- replace sump plug
- fit new filter (type? brand? where from?) readily available from most filter specialists and probably Repco etc. or Landrover specialists (not dealers) Brand immaterial.
- fill engine (through which cap?) with engine oil (type? brand?) Fill through cap on side pipe. 20W-50 or 20W-60
-

2. Cooling system flush.
- remove bottom hose - remove or open plug or tap in block behind exhaust manifold, and one in the bottom of the radiator.
- drain coolant/water
- remove top hose at radiator end
- with a hose, flush water through top hose through water pump etc (is there any right direction to do this?) No
- flush radiator
- replace hoses if required (they are)
- refill with water? or coolant? (which one and if coolant, what type?) Originally distilled or rainwater is specified, antifreeze if necessary, but I would use green coolant.

3. check valve / tappet clearances (I may be blind, but I couldn't find it in the service book...) .010" hot or cold
- remover rocker cover
- use appropriate size (which is?) feeler guage to check clearances between the thingos
- adjust if necessary by tightening or loosening the nuts on the other side to the thingos. See the workshop manual for details on how to do this. If you don't have this, make sure you are checking the clearance when the valves are closed - a crankhandle is very handy.
- ?

4. Air cleaner clean and overhaul
- remove air cleaner
- dismantle and drain oil
- clean element with fresh fuel
- refill with motor oil to required level (any specific oil?) No, but use what you used in the engine.
- Remove and clean in petrol or kerosene and reoil the breather filters.

5. Check timing (this is in the manual somewhere, but just checking)
- with a timing light?
I use static timing setting with a trouble light or other low voltage light. Timing should be 6deg BTDC for unleaded or advance until you start to get knocking under load.
- align mark with top dead centre? +/- ?
- anything else?

6. replace plugs and leads
- plugs easy
- leads easy, but what type? With low compression, not very critical - I have Bosch leads
- is it worth replacing the coil? No unless suspect

7. check compression
- do I need to? How? what do I do about it if it is off? (big job to rectify right?) No unless suspect

8. Distributor
- worth replacing points? rotor? anything else? Check and adjust points (before setting timing) replace if burnt. Nothing else should need replacement. Remove rotor button and put in one drop of engine oil. Do not get oil near points - do not use the oily feeler gauges you used for the tappets.

9. Fuel system
- disconnect either end and blow out with compressed air
- clean sediment bowl
- check for leaks
- check Carby (see above)


OTHER:

1. Gearbox Oil change
- warm up box
- drain oil
- refil
* any tricks with getting the oil from bottle to box? What about T/Case?

I use a twenty litre drum with a pump! you will find an oil syringe handy. Transfer case needs at least checking. Gearbox and transfer drain and refill are listed at 15000km, check at 5000.

2. Diff and Swivel oil change
- drive to warm up
- drain oil
- refill (what oil, and how do I get it in without it going everywhere?!) EP 90, changes and checks etc same as gearbox

3. brakes
- just top up fluid? Do I need to bleed or flush? check. In a wet or dusty climate, bleed and replace annually.
- pads are good, although the front left is dragging a tiny bit. Do I just play with the adjusting bolt on the backing plate until it stops? :confused: I could just leave it... :angel: Adjust as per book. (tighten and then back off one notch). If it is dragging it is either adjusted too tight or has oil on it. If any doubt remove the drum and have a look. Adjust handbrake

4. Universals
- clean off excess crud
- grease 'em up (just fill them or should grease force out the edges? Yes. Also check tightness of the securing bolts on the flanges


Is there anything else I should do? :confused:

Missing from your list :-

Adjust fan belt
Lubricate dynamo (not necessary for alternator)
Drain flywheel housing if wading plug fitted.
Oil throttle linkage
Adjust idling
Rotate tyres
Check pressures and tread condition
Check all body bolts
Check U-bolts and shackle pins for tightness
Check all lights and headlight aiming
Check level of oil in steering box
Check rubber boots on all tie rod ends for damage, replace as necessary
Check top and bottom relay arms for signs of looseness.
Lubricate all locks and door hinges

That is all I can think of, hope it helps.

John

[Shonky]

Thanks for that John! Legend! :D


I forgot about the carby - is there anything I need to check or adjust here?

[Tank]

Just 2 things to add to John's excellent list,
1. Relace condensor in dissy when and everytime you change the points.
2. In the "Sticky" section of Series III forum is a download of the Manual which will have all the Tech info you will need.
Regards Frank

[JDNSW]

Thanks for that John! Legend! :D


I forgot about the carby - is there anything I need to check or adjust here?

Depends which carby you have. if it is a Solex, there is a strainer in the input union which should be cleaned. A lot of Zeniths have had an inline filter added just before the carbie, and this should be replaced every three or four services, or at the very least examined for sediment. But note that I had one of these start to shed little bits of paper which blocked jets - but it was at least ten years old. Other than this there is no regular servicing of the carburetter except to check for leaks and for the bolts holding it to the manifold to be tight, and nothing loose on the linkages. For that matter, checking all the bolts on the manifolds is probably worthwhile.

John

John

[Shonky]

Thanks John and Frank. :)

Just to keep you on your toes, I have neither a Zenith nor a Solex.

Ambrose wears a Webber which was installed in 2002 and has gone maybe 2000miles at most. It has an inline filter just before that was installed at the same time.

[PAT303]

I would remove the rad and have it rodded and change thermostat and if there is any movement at all in the pump I would fit a new one and keep the old one as a spare.I would also replace the thermo housing bolts,tap the holes and anti-sieze the new ones.I always found on landy drum brakes that I set them so I could just hear them rub on the front and the back one's a click back from touching worked well.Also check that the master cylinder pin has a bit of play or the brakes will bind,just back the nuts back a little either side. Pat

[PAT303]

How do you find the webber?.Is it the 32mm? if it is you are loosing a lot of power and you need all you can get. Pat

[Sleepy]

Wiper Blades :D or should I say smearing rubber:p



Good thread Shonky - thanks all for replies - I am saving this thread.:)

[UncleHo]

G'day PAT303 :)

It would probably be the Solex/Zenith carby replacement which is a Webber 34ICH model, only problem that I have heard of is that after a long run at higher speeds it will tend to Vapourise after stopping (Coffee or H'burger) mine does :( gets 80 metres down the road and dies, pump like crazy and it will pick up, or pull choke out, (the fuel bowl dries up) other that that it's a good carby, just that the fuel bowl is a little small compared to the original size carby bowls.

cheers

[Shonky]

Thanks Pat and Kev.

I haven't been able to fault the Webber - no issues at all and the power and economy are no less than one would expect for the vehicle.

Can't say I have had issues with vaporising either. :)


Paul - glad it is useful to someone else... ;)

[PAT303]

I tried the webber years ago and it wasn't as good as the zenith.Mine lost power and also stopped at the lights on a hot day.I have been yearning for another 2.25 swb,I love the series models. Pat

[Shonky]

One other thing - what oil for a non-synchro box?

Penrite recommends their MildEP Gear Oil for the box and transfer case, but another member on here whos judgement I trust has previously recommended MildEP for Diffs and swivels but said it was not the best in the box...

For a series III it recommends Manual Gear Oil 80 or Hypoid 80W90...

[d@rk51d3]

Any suggestions for flushing the block?

I tried to do mine today, before I replaced the water pump.

The drain valve on the block only weeps, suggesting a large scale deposit in the block, to me.

Should I knock out the welsh plugs, and give it a blast? or maybe put some some caustic through her?

[PAT303]

Remember that your box has phospher bronze bushes so don't use any oil that contains sulfur.Castrol is what I always used. Pat

[PAT303]

Any suggestions for flushing the block?

I tried to do mine today, before I replaced the water pump.

The drain valve on the block only weeps, suggesting a large scale deposit in the block, to me.

Should I knock out the welsh plugs, and give it a blast? or maybe put some some caustic through her?

I always recommend a specialist clean for that reason.I would put it back together and get them to do it,they have the know how. Pat

[JDNSW]

Any suggestions for flushing the block?

I tried to do mine today, before I replaced the water pump.

The drain valve on the block only weeps, suggesting a large scale deposit in the block, to me.

Should I knock out the welsh plugs, and give it a blast? or maybe put some some caustic through her?


I removed the tap and then used some wire to agitate the sludge blocking the hole. Once you have it moving, you'd be surprised what comes out. As it does not have aluminium heads or significant ally bit in contact with the coolant, it is unlikely caustic soda will help unless there has been oil in the coolant (leaking headgasket or sometimes soluble oil has been used as a corrosion preventer in years gone by). But if you do use caustic soda, be cautious about its effect on alloy welsh plugs. I would be more inclined to use an industrial strength detergent.

John

[Shonky]

Well I did a bit on Ambrose today, but LVS couldn't source 1 item that I had ordered so they withheld the whole order. :mad:

Today I had a crack at it, and did the tappet clearances, flushed the "coolant", cleaned up and refilled the aircleaner, re-oiled the front diff, greased the UJs, topped up the steering box and listened to music. B)

BUT...

The engine runs much the same, although a few of the clearances were a little out. Now though, something is knocking away merrily in there - I think I stuffed up the clearance on one of them. :( Try again tomorrow...

AND...

I drained 11L of MUD out of the cooling system and topped it up with nice fresh coolant.

I ran the engine for a little while to circulate it all through and when I turned it off it sprayed out the cap. :( I forgot to bleed it through the drain taps first, would this do that?

I bled it and topped it up again, and ran it for a while with my hand on the top hose. It stayed cool for about five minutes then quickly got quite warm - I assume this was the thermostat doing its thing. When I stopped it didn't spray this time but it was quite warm. I hope it is happy now...

Also, I found a perfect tool for opening drain plugs on diffs - a pig-tail from a tailgate! It fits perfectly and you can slot a screwdriver through the loops of the pig tail for extra leverage!

[Leo109]

Remember that your box has phospher bronze bushes so don't use any oil that contains sulfur.Castrol is what I always used. Pat
Good point Pat. I use Castrol VMX80 (GL4 spec) in my SIII 'box. Was warned not to use EPX 80W90 or any other GL5 spec oil in Series gearboxes. EPX 80W90 is fine for the transfer case, diffs and swivel housings.

Shonky, another spot to check is the oil level in the steering relay box. If it's all leaked out years ago the steering can be very heavy. It's a few years since I did it but I think the drill was to take out one of the top cover bolts and dribble 80W90 into the hole until it won't take any more. Someone will correct me if this is not correct.

Also, if your front hubs have free-wheeling hubs, engage them for a few kms every few weeks so the swivel oil can splash lubricate the top Railco bushes (and prevents the front prop shaft from seizing/wearing unevenly).

Ian

[JDNSW]

Good point Pat. I use Castrol VMX80 (GL4 spec) in my SIII 'box. Was warned not to use EPX 80W90 or any other GL5 spec oil in Series gearboxes. EPX 80W90 is fine for the transfer case, diffs and swivel housings.

Shonky, another spot to check is the oil level in the steering relay box. If it's all leaked out years ago the steering can be very heavy. It's a few years since I did it but I think the drill was to take out one of the top cover bolts and dribble 80W90 into the hole until it won't take any more. Someone will correct me if this is not correct.

Also, if your front hubs have free-wheeling hubs, engage them for a few kms every few weeks so the swivel oil can splash lubricate the top Railco bushes (and prevents the front prop shaft from seizing/wearing unevenly).

Ian

For the steering relay take two of the top bolts out to let the air out as you fill - and start by taking a bottom one out to see if there is anything in it first might be useful. A pump type oil can is very helpful for gertting the oil in.

John

[chazza]

Shonky, if your cooling system is muddy it really is time to get the radiator dismantled and cleaned properly.

Unfortunately there is not much point doing that if the mud in the block clogs it up again a few weeks later, so as someone else suggested, time to get the whole cooling system done at the same time. Removing the core/welch plugs and poking about with a srewdriver and a bit of squashed copper pipe in the end of the garden hose works remarkably well but you need to persevere for quite some time.

New core plugs of course and some corrosion inhibitor will see it happy for years and change every hose while it is apart and use new hose clamps, as it is not worth spoiling the ship for a halfpenny worth of tar,

Cheers Charlie

[Shonky]

Was warned not to use EPX 80W90 or any other GL5 spec oil in Series gearboxes. EPX 80W90 is fine for the transfer case, diffs and swivel housings.


Oh ****. :(

After much consernation and asking various people "what oil" I decided to use EPX 80W90 all round.

Now I have to drain my gearbox and go and buy another oil.

**** **** ****.

:(:(:(

[Shonky]

Thanks for the advice charlie - I don't think I am going to be able to get it done in time for Corowa... :(

I need to get my alternator rebuilt too. :(

[Leo109]

Oh ****. :(

After much consernation and asking various people "what oil" I decided to use EPX 80W90 all round.

Now I have to drain my gearbox and go and buy another oil.

**** **** ****.

:(:(:(
Hi Andrew,
Just had another look at the Castrol website Lube Guide (Castrol Australia - NetLube (http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp)) and it says VMX80 for the transfer case as well. Must be phosphor bronze in there too. Sorry, I must have been thinking of my 300Tdi, which runs EPX in the t/case.
Ian

[Shonky]

Thanks for the heads up Ian - I didn't know about that site. :(

4 L of oil down the drain. :(


Moving on - I went to change the oil in the RHS swivel, and I took off the drain plug...


...and nothing came out! :o I was worried initially that it had drained itself dry, but a good poke around in the filler hole revealed that it was in fact filled with grease... :eek:

So I have one swivel running oil, and the other running grease! :no2:


It isn't making noises so I will leave it as is until after Corowa I think. I am battling to get everything right in time as it is. :(

[Leo109]

Thanks for the heads up Ian - I didn't know about that site. :(
4 L of oil down the drain. :(
Moving on - I went to change the oil in the RHS swivel, and I took off the drain plug...
...and nothing came out! :o I was worried initially that it had drained itself dry, but a good poke around in the filler hole revealed that it was in fact filled with grease... :eek:
So I have one swivel running oil, and the other running grease! :no2:
It isn't making noises so I will leave it as is until after Corowa I think. I am battling to get everything right in time as it is. :(
Sorry, wish I could have told you earlier. In any case, if the old oil was really old, a 'flush' with EPX (albeit a bit expensive) will have done no harm.

Re. your RH swivel: probably wouldn't hurt to put a bit of EPX in it, to soften-up the grease. It may have had grease put in because the seals are shot and grease doesn't leak out as fast, but grease doesn't get thrown up into the top Railco bushes very well and they can get dry.

What's on at Corowa? Not that I'll be attending - we're in Tassie at the moment.
Ian

PS: Regarding the Castrol site - recommending "Modern Engine Oils" like GTX3 for the LR 2.25 seems a bit odd. I'd use (if it's still available) ordinary old GTX or maybe GTX2 (20W50). I think 'thin' (10W or 15W) "modern engine oils" in a 2.25 might lead to some alarming oil consumption between changes. Mind you, this may be completely wrong, in which case one of our resident oil gurus (e.g. Rick130) will drop in shortly and put me firmly back into my box...

[Shonky]

It's all good Leo - thanks for your help thus far. :)

I might chuck some oil in there then - It couldn't hurt.

Corowa hosts the GPA (amphipious Jeeps) swim in each year. Google it - they have a website or two. :)

I was going to use Penrite HPR30 in the engine. It should be thick enough and it is recommended by their website (not that it means much)

If this is bad please tell me now people! :o


It seems to be running a little warm, although Gus has a Holden in it that doesn't run so I have nothing to compare it to. I have no temp guage so I am only going off ambient.

I am tossing up getting my radiator checked/reconditioned before I go, but I'm pinching the funds and time very tight as is. :( I guess it will be worth it if it means I don't get stuck on a tow truck and sent back to Syd with a blown Head Gasket. :(

It all happens at once doesn't it? Our Fairmont is disintegrating too so I need to replace that in the next few weeks as well! :( My credit card is copping a hammering! :o

[Shonky]

Today:

EPX-80W90 drained from gearbox and t/case, and funneled back into container for reuse. Dodgy I know, but while contaminated it is bound to be better than whatever I drain out!

VMX-80 pumped in to box and case.

Recycled EPX-80W90 pumped into rear diff.

LVS have sent me the wrong bloody oil filter... :mad: There goes the plans of oil changes tomorrow.

Taken for a test run:

-There is some noise emanating from the front end on full lock, but it is fairly quiet and not worth worrying about at this stage. I will keep an eye on it.
- I am going to have another crack at the tappet clearances. I did as the book said last time, setting one valve while a corresponding other was fully open but I might just set them all when open themselves and see how that goes. It is a little noisy at present.
- It still seems a tad warm to me, but it isn't playing up and I could just be paranoid.

Thats all for now. ;)

[Leo109]

Today:
Taken for a test run:

-There is some noise emanating from the front end on full lock, but it is fairly quiet and not worth worrying about at this stage. I will keep an eye on it.
- I am going to have another crack at the tappet clearances. I did as the book said last time, setting one valve while a corresponding other was fully open but I might just set them all when open themselves and see how that goes. It is a little noisy at present.
- It still seems a tad warm to me, but it isn't playing up and I could just be paranoid.

Thats all for now. ;)
Hi Shonk,
. Front end noise on full lock might be just the tyres touching the chassis, especially if they're wider than standard. Look for rub marks on the chassis or inner guard panels.
. "I might just set them all when open themselves" - I hope what you really mean is when they (the valves) are closed (and the rockers are "rocking"? I'd stick to the 'book' method but that's 'cause I'd just confuse myself if I didn't.:(
. How about a coolant temp gauge? I have a cheapie K-Mart bulb-type gauge in Leo109's Holden 202 and it works well (and is accurate - I've checked it in boiling water a couple of times).
Ian

[Shonky]

G'Day Leo - funny you should mention rubbing tyres... been there before! :o I made that embarrasing mistake once and its not that this time! :lol2:

I think it was just the new UJ bedding in. It has stopped now after a good run on loose dirt in 4WD on the weekend.

All is now quiet. :)

I did mean valves closed, but decided that the book knows best so just rechecked them all. They were fine so I put the noise down to needing an oil change. I grabbed a new (correct) filter off Hilton on Saturday so filled her up with HPR30 on Sunday and now hes running smoother and quieter and the tapping has almost dissappeared. ;)

Being a military model, it has the combination water temp / oil pressure guage on the dash. Oil temp works fine but the water temp is broken. I will have to pull it apart when I get the chance but it seems to be fine now that I have got the last of the air out. My Radiator cap is a bit dicky however.

[Leo109]

Thanks for the update. Hope is is well now.
Ian

[Shonky]

Thanks mate - you've been very helpful. :)

If you're ever around this way let me know. ;)