PDA

View Full Version : Discovery 2 - Air Conditioner Drains



Franz
12th February 2009, 01:40 PM
There has been some discussion on the impact of the air conditioner drains on front drive shaft failures - there are some that believe this may be a cause of premature DC failure.

I have had some past trouble with air conditioner drains blocking up and flooding the footwells with water over time. First step was to remove the "nipples" that prevent dirt ingress - this solved the clogging problem. I would recommend this step to all Disco owners whether used off road or not.

As a next step, I decide to divert the water away from the DS drain as it dripped on the front drive shaft. I bought some vacuum hose (I think 16mm from Autobarn) and zip tied it to the chassis rail.

Idid not do the passenger side until recently because I noticed that the water drips onto a electrical connector and thought "well, that can't be any good". Bought another piece of vaccum hose and zip tied it to the exhaust hanger - problem solved.

I'm not 100% sure of the size of the vacuum hose so it is advisable to do what I did and use the "nipple" as a sample to find the corect diameter hose.

Cheers,

Franz
2004 Discovery Td5 Classic Auto with mods

p38arover
12th February 2009, 01:52 PM
I believe that on a D2, the condensate drips onto the XYZ switch and ruins it. These are not cheap.

Franz
12th February 2009, 01:58 PM
I believe that on a D2, the condensate drips onto the XYZ switch and ruins it. These are not cheap.
What does the XYZ switch do?

Scouse
12th February 2009, 01:59 PM
Also known as the inhibitor switch.

trev
12th February 2009, 08:15 PM
In hot, humid weather a lot of water comes out of these.
I fixed the problem with a couple of lengths of 10mm OD clear beverage tubing.This size fits up through the nipples and works fine.
Just tie off with a couple of cable ties to hold in place.
Doesn`t matter if the size is not quite right,the natural tendancy is for the water to track down the tube either inside or outside.
Either way it stops it dripping on the DC joints and the inhibitor switch.

Trev.

Ricey
12th February 2009, 10:45 PM
I did mine after changing the Auto(?) inhibitor switch. I did it from the top while having the centre console out and just used garden hose & zip ties. Seems to drip away freely without causing unseen damage.

wardy1
13th February 2009, 05:26 PM
grrrrr I ned to replace my inhibitor switch. anyone have a good supplier?Been quoted around $400 for a bloody switch.
Also, are there any things I need to be carful of installing new one?

Pierre
23rd February 2009, 12:55 PM
Yep. Make sure the trans is COLD!!!!!

Pete

ozscott
24th February 2009, 08:53 AM
What does the inhibitor switch do...might be academic for me because mines a manual

Cheers

2 rocks
24th February 2009, 11:13 PM
Also known as a "gear position switch" - tells various bits and bobs what gear has been selected on the automatic transmission.
With age and wear, this item is also used to create serious frustration in the user as it causes the "M&S" lights to flash on the dashboard, it causes the selection of 3rd gear as a default "limp home" option (try that on a steep driveway!), gear indicators disappear from the dash LCD and ultimately causes a failure to start due to the confusion of what gear is selected and as we all know an auto will only start in N or P...
Have I replaced mine...yep you guessed it! Oooh yeah! Lol!
Mike

haydent
4th April 2011, 02:36 PM
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Discobaker
4th April 2011, 07:03 PM
Ok, I know on my D2 where 2 of the drains are, are there only 2 or should I be looking for more. I have located the one that drops onto the DC & the one that drips onto the left rear mud flap.

haydent
4th April 2011, 07:15 PM
i just had two up front for the AC, either side of the front of the gearbox

Xtreme
4th April 2011, 07:17 PM
Ok, I know on my D2 where 2 of the drains are, are there only 2 or should I be looking for more. I have located the one that drops onto the DC & the one that drips onto the left rear mud flap.

You need to locate the one on the other side of the gearbox.

Haven't heard of "the one that drips onto the left rear mud flap" before. Where is it draining from?

haydent
4th April 2011, 07:27 PM
Haven't heard of "the one that drips onto the left rear mud flap" before. Where is it draining from?

i was thinking that too, but maybe it for rear ac unit if fitted ??

Pedro_The_Swift
4th April 2011, 08:35 PM
yep, the rear aircon drips from the pass side rear mudflap,,

very disconcerting the first time you notice--:eek:

Discobaker
5th April 2011, 04:25 AM
yep, the rear aircon drips from the pass side rear mudflap,,

very disconcerting the first time you notice--:eek:

It was a bit of a puzzling experience yes :)
And yes, I have the rear air con so I'll now be looking for the one on the opposite side of the gearbox. Cheers guys, much appreciated

wakamole
6th April 2011, 07:59 PM
I've always wondered...

I have extended my hose over the switch but am currently flying nipple-less.:o

Plus with the extension hose there is a lot of time before clog-up even in dusty conditions (or am I wrong?)

DiscoKym
21st December 2013, 02:45 PM
I have just successfully extended my air conditioner drains using the 13mm irrigation parts trick. Both XYZ switch and front drive shaft were wet.

While working up near the XYZ switch I noticed the nut wasn't holding the lever on. It was on just a couple of threads (cross threaded?) and with a large gap to the lever. The Auto was overhauled by the previous owner a few months ago and was probably missed when put together.

Glad I found it in the driveway and not on a dirt road KM from anywhere. :)

Random88
25th December 2013, 05:42 PM
My wife bought a 2004 D2 with 30,000 on it, very good condition and low Ks. Less than 2,000 kmx latter the front drive shaft failed, thrashed about and dinted the side of the gearbox.
The local Rover specialists said the failure was caused by the aircon drain and that it was a known problem.

Roverlord off road spares
25th December 2013, 06:25 PM
My wife bought a 2004 D2 with 30,000 on it, very good condition and low Ks. Less than 2,000 kmx latter the front drive shaft failed, thrashed about and dinted the side of the gearbox.
The local Rover specialists said the failure was caused by the aircon drain and that it was a known problem.
It seems the factory didn't, they had 5 years of D2 building and didn't address it at the factory.

Random88
25th December 2013, 07:01 PM
The 30,000 was done in Cairns. I suspect that the humidity would have pumped above normal quantities of water across the uni joint, combined by the low ks and it was a recipe for corrosion. The joint rarely got to operating temperature. So we were told this joint also was not serviceable, no nipple.

trev
25th December 2013, 07:50 PM
Well, Only 30Ks on a 2004?

Yes! in Cairns with high humidity the aircon will drop huge amounts of water all over the DC joint and the inhibitor switch on the other side.
you were lucky the shaft only dinged the side of the gearbox rather than busting the housing.
Divert the drains as suggested here on this forum and buy a replacement greasable DC joint. Reps for Hardy Spicer or similar should be able to supply for around $300 or so,but you might need to shop around.Cairns is a big place so I think you should be able to come up with something.

Trev.

trev
25th December 2013, 07:55 PM
sorry,misread your post,I guess it is not up in Cairns now,anyway previous comments still valid.
Trev.

Random88
26th December 2013, 09:01 AM
It's not in Cairns now, and the 30,000 was years ago now. It seems the factories failure to address this is well known, they are very lucky that no on was injured or killed when these failures happen. My wife had just turned a low speed corner when it happened but it could have been dangerous. Fleets have been recalled for less serious issues.
She only bought the thing because a water pump failure in the 1994 disco had ruined her confidence on towing horses with the old girl. A confidence thing. So after buying the newer version a far more spectacular failure happened!
The serviceable joint and replacement switch are in place now. I only commented to support the original posters question.

Tassiephile
26th December 2013, 10:42 AM
7.9mm I.D fuel hose fits snugly into the drain tubes once the nipples are removed. I used about 600mm and cable-tied it to an exhaust bracket, no probs.(I haven't bothered to replace the nipples as I do very little wading).