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Rangier Rover
12th February 2009, 02:40 PM
I know this tyre thing has been kicked around a lot.....
Well..... we've stuffed all our 33" Mongrels:(. I hate the idea of paying big $$$$ for a tyre that may get the side wall torn in five kms:(
I need a bullet proof tyre that wont cost the earth. I don't care what they drive like on black top.

I may have to go back to 750X16 to prevent this here. It seems 33s and 35s are more prone to side wall injury:(

What do you think.

Cheers Tony

Tank
12th February 2009, 03:13 PM
I have noticed that mud terrain tyres with "side biter" lugs which extend down the sidewalls seem to be prone to staking in the sidewall.
It seems that the sidewall lugs tend to grab sticks/stakes and direct them into the sidewall, whereas smooth sidewalls (no side lugs) tend to deflect sticks/stakes, not in every circumstance though. Maybe the answer is multiple sidewalls, like the old 7.50x16's, if it just for off-road what about getting some LT 7.50x16's and having them retreaded in a mud terrain pattern, Regards Frank.

isuzurover
12th February 2009, 03:20 PM
For mainly offroad vehicles why not fit tractor tyres???

Otherwise, a mining tyre like the wrangler TG might be a good bet. A mate has them and they seem very tough for a radial.
Tyre Search, Goodyear Autocare, Australia (http://www.goodyearautocare.com.au/TyreDetailAction.do?website=GAC&websegmentcode=RV&mtpcode=00120&from=nPerPage)

V8Ian
12th February 2009, 03:35 PM
I met a fellow up the cape a few years back, who was using bobcat tyres off road.

discowhite
12th February 2009, 03:46 PM
im of the same oppinion! why spend heaps on tyres that go and get cut, smoked and slashed!
that was a big reason why i went to the silverstone MT117 sports! im on my 2nd set and gave the 1st set quiet abit of curry:cool: and over 50thou i got 2 punctures! ive had them pinched up against the rims, thank god for the rim protector on the bead, smoked em up numerous times on sandstone, and gave them a good run on some of CQ's sharp shale....brilliant.
for the same size tyre in a BFG/Crappers these are cheaper by 100bucks ea.

i went from $180 mongrels to $250 silverstones.

cheers phil

Psimpson7
12th February 2009, 03:59 PM
Michelin XZY's are pretty much unbreakable, but not very agressive. Last for 150kkm+ I would expect

wardy1
12th February 2009, 05:07 PM
Check out Maxxi Bighorns. Reasonable price, self clean pretty well and seem pretty tough.

Turtle61
12th February 2009, 05:18 PM
Len Beadell Tours have good section of tough tyres - worth a look.

http://www.beadelltours.com.au/tyre_information.html

spudboy
12th February 2009, 05:20 PM
^^^ What PSimpson said. If you want more agressive, go the Michelin XZLs

Rangier Rover
12th February 2009, 05:32 PM
Just in quickly to check thread. Thanks for constuctive in put. :)
Others very welcome to jump in. I do value your experience.

Tony

lokka
12th February 2009, 06:44 PM
Maxxis buck shots great value and verry hard wearing last lot i got were 188 per tyre in 33x12.5x15 ive driven them in all sorts of conditions and havent punchered or staked one yet verry happy :D:D:D

McDisco
12th February 2009, 06:47 PM
I know this tyre thing has been kicked around a lot.....
Well..... we've stuffed all our 33" Mongrels:(. I hate the idea of paying big $$$$ for a tyre that may get the side wall torn in five kms:(
I need a bullet proof tyre that wont cost the earth. I don't care what they drive like on black top.

I may have to go back to 750X16 to prevent this here. It seems 33s and 35s are more prone to side wall injury:(

What do you think.

Cheers Tony

I think the cash is your problem then. Good tyres cost good money....thats pretty much a fact IMHO. The higher cost is to pay for a higher quality of manufacture and toughness.

I have never skimped on tyres and apart from a slow leak have never ruined a tyre.

Angus

Psimpson7
12th February 2009, 06:58 PM
Seriously, those XZY/XZL's are so much stronger than any of the others mentioned so far. They are a truck tyre that handily are available in 7.50r16

We had a set of XZY's on a s3 swb, and they lasted for about 120000 miles, and were only changed as they were perished.

Wet grip was hopeless, as was traction off road in mud, but they are truly almost indestructable. I think in the 120k miles we had one puncture. That was it.

They are not cheap though.

abaddonxi
12th February 2009, 07:57 PM
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/39339-help-amateur-please-new-tyres-question.html#post554840


depending on a few things what tyre you pick will vary...

heres my feel on the last few sets of tyres Ive used..

dunlop/olympic 7.50r16 steeltrecks.. (thems those army ones) Great all rounder, doesnt excel at anything but doesnt suck either, available in 8/12 ply if you know how to ask for em last ok. If you dont know what your going to do thats my tyre of choice.

<snip>

12 ply mmm.

rick130
12th February 2009, 08:49 PM
All the piggers around here have the same issues, stakes have no respect for how exxy a tyre is, so they all throw on the cheapest, heaviest ply rating things they can get, usually as you say in 7.50/16.

I'll ask the local tyre bloke tomorrow what the current flavour of the month is, but from what I've seen and heard, nothing will stop you staking.

rick130
12th February 2009, 08:56 PM
I think most of you are missing Rangier's point, it's usually a sidewall problem, not a tread area problem, and it doesn't matter how exxy a tyre is, a stake goes through a sidewall like a knife.
This generally isn't from 4wding over formed tracks, this happens from driving through paddocks and hills and gullies where there is no track.
I see this every week at the local garage, tyres with holes torn in them everywhere from the local pig chasers utes.

FWIW, I've seen XZL's throw tread blocks and split too, and unlike their 8.25 and up cousins, they don't sport a steel belt sidewall either, although they are pretty beefy there, but it's only rubber.

rovercare
12th February 2009, 08:59 PM
Time for some Bias ply tyres;)

camel_landy
12th February 2009, 09:04 PM
Like Rick says, the XZLs aren't invincible but they're probably about as strong as you're going to get for the Landy.

I've also found that running at a high pressure (rather than 'airing down' ) helps the rubber deflect the blows.

HTH

M

rovercare
12th February 2009, 09:17 PM
Like Rick says, the XZLs aren't invincible but they're probably about as strong as you're going to get for the Landy.

I've also found that running at a high pressure (rather than 'airing down' ) helps the rubber deflect the blows.

HTH

M

^^^^^^

That, bit of a fine line, running higher pressures prevents sidewall damage, but ends up with punctures in the tread if to hard:eek:

953
12th February 2009, 09:23 PM
Like Rick says, the XZLs aren't invincible but they're probably about as strong as you're going to get for the Landy.

I've also found that running at a high pressure (rather than 'airing down' ) helps the rubber deflect the blows.

HTH

M

There,s two schools of thought here & although I understand both theories
\on airing down to resist punctures , Im not sure which to believe:rolleyes:
Cheers Dean.

McDisco
12th February 2009, 09:28 PM
I think you just have to consider that example of the balloon. A full balloon will pop easily...a half filled one will have some give and be more resistant to popping. Same should apply to tires.

Personally, I think the theory of having tyres higher is a bunch of rubbish and totally against conventional wisdom. Traction is worse also. You only have to try driving on soft sand with higher pressure tyres...totally crap traction.

Angus

dullbird
12th February 2009, 09:46 PM
thats a theroy that would relate to common sense.....

BUT

Balloons dont have 8/12 ply side walls ;)............

Desert Traveller
12th February 2009, 09:46 PM
From experience, I'm on the airing down side. The only time I've had failures is when I've not aired down as required. The airing down has to be proportional to the possible size of the obstacle. Most tyre damage out west on tracks and gravel roads is through the tread. I have done enough kms on gravel (a few hundred thousand) and every time I've been in a convoy the punctures have been experienced by the hard running group (star bursts through the tread). On the black stuff I do run high pressures. I have travelled over a million kms in my life so far and have never been a professional driver.
My two bob's worth.

953
12th February 2009, 09:51 PM
I think you just have to consider that example of the balloon. A full balloon will pop easily...a half filled one will have some give and be more resistant to popping. Same should apply to tires.

Personally, I think the theory of having tyres higher is a bunch of rubbish and totally against conventional wisdom. Traction is worse also. You only have to try driving on soft sand with higher pressure tyres...totally crap traction.

Angus

I once quoted that line to a tyre fitter who replied, a tyre is not a balloon, have you ever seen a balloon with steel belts??? I do understand where your coming from though.
Cheers Dean.

rick130
12th February 2009, 09:55 PM
<snip>
BUT

Balloons dont have 8/12 ply side walls ;)............

Neither do tyres :lol2:

One if it's a P tyre, 2 for an LT, 3 if you are running an MTR or BFG or nice bias belts if a cross ply as Rovercare suggested ;)

Rangier Rover
12th February 2009, 10:10 PM
I agree with all of you but under diferent conditions. I can't post pics now but have been through all ^^^^ tyres. Have pics for proff but you should all know I dont BS buy now.
Would you beleive 750X16 MRF Rags 16 ply have out done the rest here:(
They will look awfull on the 120:(

I have a large fleet of 4X4s light trucks and Tractors here so this is hard to do. If only one or two I would lash with the $$ and get the so called best.

The main drama is we have between 1/2 to 1.2 tons load so air down is not so good on side slopes with sharp rocks and the odd stump.:eek:
All my 4X4s now have to cope with a 600 ltr or larger fire tank near full + work load.
I have never had tyre drama in my rangies or 88"' series as run around 12 to 18 psi.
Looks like weight is the killer. I'd hate to have a F150 etc here:eek:

Tony

UncleHo
12th February 2009, 10:22 PM
G'day Rangier Rover :)


I would suggest that you look at 7.50 x 16 Road Track Major,cross ply, in 10 or 12 ply for the 120, bar/lug with 2 zig-zag grooves down the middle, used to be standard fitment to Tojo's in the 70's 80's they are made in 6,8,10,12ply, look OK on standard road going 4 x4's and for paddock work they are OK and will stand 100kph highway, we have a set of RTM's on the front of a Fergie TED20 for paddock work without problems:) I suggested the 10/12plys seeing that you have a tank on.

cheers

Rangier Rover
13th February 2009, 09:10 AM
I did mention pics. This is only some of them:eek: As other Toyotas Land Rovers etc not in this lot.


As you can see.....Have tried a few tyres out here:(

I'm thinking MRF rag is best on the older Toyotas.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13526&stc=1&d=1234479552
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13527&stc=1&d=1234479641
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13528&stc=1&d=1234479668
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13529&stc=1&d=1234479696

The 120 goes very well on 33s so hope I can find some 12 or 16 ply 825X16 or 900X16 Rags for it.
So it's a Land Rover thread.....A drive in the 120....
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13530&stc=1&d=1234479719

Thanks again all for the input:)
Tony

camel_landy
13th February 2009, 10:32 AM
There,s two schools of thought here & although I understand both theories
\on airing down to resist punctures , Im not sure which to believe:rolleyes:
Cheers Dean.

It also depends where the puncture is likely to come from... Through the tread or side wall.

Like with tyre choice, it's always going to be a compromise.

M

camel_landy
13th February 2009, 10:34 AM
thats a theroy that would relate to common sense.....

BUT

Balloons dont have 8/12 ply side walls ;)............

Precisely... :p

Also, in the balloon example, you're pushing the pin straight in... With tyres it's usually more of a glancing blow.

However, as I said before, it's always a compromise and experience will help.

M

Rangier Rover
13th February 2009, 11:47 AM
I put the 235 85s back on the 120 and have done a side wall already:BigCry:
Didn't even last 20 mins:mad:
Tony:(

Shonky
13th February 2009, 01:42 PM
We put a set of Sumitomo Serenghettis on the Patrol... WORST tyre EVER in the scrub. Great on dirt and black top, but soooooo soft - staked three in the space of a day and they were just new... :(

Gone back to Maxxis now. :)

Rangier Rover
13th February 2009, 04:42 PM
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: :mad::mad::mad:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13538&stc=1&d=1234507159




I've been in to our local suplier and there is not much out there that has the strength of a 750X16 that is around 33":(


The best we have come up with so far is a Maxxis bias M8080 Mudzilla.

dullbird
13th February 2009, 04:44 PM
Neither do tyres :lol2:

One if it's a P tyre, 2 for an LT, 3 if you are running an MTR or BFG or nice bias belts if a cross ply as Rovercare suggested ;)


can you explain why our toyo's have an 8 ply then ?

Hang on just realised what your talking about because I wrote side wall....:lol2: opps

isuzurover
13th February 2009, 11:49 PM
can you explain why our toyo's have an 8 ply then ?

Hang on just realised what your talking about because I wrote side wall....:lol2: opps

They might have an "8-ply rating", but they only have 2 actual sidewall plies, and 2-4 tread plies.

dullbird
14th February 2009, 11:38 AM
They might have an "8-ply rating", but they only have 2 actual sidewall plies, and 2-4 tread plies.


Yes I know thats why I wrote opps.......I was thinking of the tread ply not the sidewalls

Slunnie
14th February 2009, 11:50 AM
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: :mad::mad::mad:

I've been in to our local suplier and there is not much out there that has the strength of a 750X16 that is around 33":(


The best we have come up with so far is a Maxxis bias M8080 Mudzilla.
Bias plying doesn't definate strength in my opinion. Interestingly, the tyre which I have punctured the most is the Simex Jungle Trekker which was meant to have a bombproof reputation in its day - something I've disproved a couple of times. The MTR is the strongest tyre I think that I've used.

lardy
14th February 2009, 12:07 PM
^^^ What PSimpson said. If you want more agressive, go the Michelin XZLs

i think these are the blocky ones the british army fit as standard ( could be wrong for a change!) if so i used to live near a proof and experimental research establishment, and as a kid you could desipher land rover from any other vehicle by the sound of the tyres on the dual carriageway outside the house great ...probably why i am so into land rovers

Rangier Rover
14th February 2009, 12:13 PM
Bias plying doesn't definate strength in my opinion. Interestingly, the tyre which I have punctured the most is the Simex Jungle Trekker which was meant to have a bombproof reputation in its day - something I've disproved a couple of times. The MTR is the strongest tyre I think that I've used.
That is not what I want to hear:(........ Have just been talking to a rep and says Simex jungle trekker 11 are the pick of them. At over 400 each:eek:

Something tells me I should go back to 750X16:( It will ruin a good 4X4.

Have to make my mind up on this over the weekend.:unsure:

Slunnie
14th February 2009, 12:23 PM
That is not what I want to hear:(........ Have just been talking to a rep and says Simex jungle trekker 11 are the pick of them. At over 400 each:eek:

Something tells me I should go back to 750X16:( It will ruin a good 4X4.

Have to make my mind up on this over the weekend.:unsure:
Maybe I need to qualify that a bit more.

My 34x11.5-16 JT2's have had a few punctures. 1 major, the others were plugged.

My old 33x10.5-16 JT2's which a friend now owns have never had an issue.

Bush65
15th February 2009, 06:22 PM
The toughest tyres that I could find last year were Bridgestone M880 7.50R16LT. Steel belt sidewalls in 14 ply rating. Not an aggressive tread though.

I bought them for Madigan Line trip which included 3 days of side trips across country with lots of fallen trees (timber in those slow growing desert trees is dense and hard) to cross.

Chucaro
15th February 2009, 06:57 PM
Maxxis buck shots great value and verry hard wearing last lot i got were 188 per tyre in 33x12.5x15 ive driven them in all sorts of conditions and havent punchered or staked one yet verry happy :D:D:D

X 2
The 235 X 85 X 16 are very nice and good

Rangier Rover
17th February 2009, 10:19 PM
I picked up my 35s and -25 offset rims today. They are for my Rangie if I ever get it all done. No chance of them going on the 120 with out some mods. Exhaust,tray height,wheel arch extensions etc.
33's seem to fit it best with out to much stuffing around.. Now looking at Simex Extreme trekker or Jungle trekker but have no outlets near here:(

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13683&stc=1&d=1234872808

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13685&stc=1&d=1234873000

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13684&stc=1&d=1234872924

Slunnie
17th February 2009, 10:26 PM
Now looking at Simex Extreme trekker or Jungle trekker but have no outlets near here:(

Just get the shipped. Thats what I did with my Creepys and then had a local shop fit them to rims.

lokka
18th February 2009, 06:40 AM
Best of luck with the mickys have heard plenty of bad things about them too soft and stake easy

Rangier Rover
18th February 2009, 08:11 AM
Best of luck with the mickys have heard plenty of bad things about them too soft and stake easy
That's why they are for the Rangie. I hope they are OK on black top as the Rangie lighter and mostly a recreational tourer now. They would be no use on the 120 of any other hard use Tray top here. I believe Micky does a bias version that may be tougher. They now are to dear anyway.:(

Rangier Rover
25th April 2009, 11:20 AM
Has anyone tried these yet?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I'm looking at 285/75 R16 for the 120. I have had a fair run out of BFGs in the past.

Tony

dullbird
25th April 2009, 11:25 AM
I think there is a member on here with them I looked at them but lost interest very quickly when people were getting quoted nearly 400bux a tyre

p38arover
25th April 2009, 12:08 PM
I know this tyre thing has been kicked around a lot.....
Well..... we've stuffed all our 33" Mongrels:(. I hate the idea of paying big $$$$ for a tyre that may get the side wall torn in five kms:(
I need a bullet proof tyre that wont cost the earth. I don't care what they drive like on black top.

I may have to go back to 750X16 to prevent this here. It seems 33s and 35s are more prone to side wall injury:(

What do you think.

Cheers Tony


What about these: Message - AULRO Classifieds (http://www.aulro.com/apc/showproduct.php/product/336/cat/6)

Rangier Rover
20th May 2009, 03:43 PM
Has anyone tried these yet?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15091&stc=1&d=1240626035

I'm looking at 285/75 R16 for the 120. I have had a fair run out of BFGs in the past.

Tony
Well..... I have taken the plunge and ordered 4 of the New BFG Mud Terrain km2 in 285 /75 /16 = 834mm Just under a 33" The 255/ 85 /16 = 840mm would have been better but BFG don't export them to Australia yet:mad:.

These Tyres were less $$$ then Simex and similar to Mickey Ts. Still bloody dear though:eek: A few locals here have had a bad run out of Maxis etc.

Tony

rmp
20th May 2009, 08:21 PM
I'm with the airing-down-to-reduce-punctures crew.

The balloon example is relevant. Takes more effort to pop a hard balloon than a soft one.

Also in favour of airing down consider contact patch, which is greater, thus there's less pressure from a sharp stone under the tread as the tyre can deform around it. Try putting a cricket ball under a 4WD's tyre at road pressure, it'll rest on it. Air down and the tyre wraps around the ball.

Yes the sidewalls do bag out, a little more when aired down. Not enough, IMHO, to worry about. It's not all that far (yes, I've measured it) and the sidewall is also now more flexible as there's less air in the tyre. Overall, my experience (and research) indicates the risk decreases as you air down.

Speed is also a big factor in punctures. The quicker you hit say a sharp rock the more likely it is to puncture your tyre. Try it with a balloon, same theory works. Or consider an axe blade being gently laid on a block of wood instead of being swung hard into it. That's why all those Series vehicles were so puncture-proof, they barely moved :-) and their lighter weight helped.

I could go on but as someone said there's no such thing as a puncture-proof tyre.

dullbird
20th May 2009, 09:18 PM
I'm with the airing-down-to-reduce-punctures crew.

The balloon example is relevant.
Takes more effort to pop a hard balloon than a soft one.

Also in favour of airing down consider contact patch, which is greater, thus there's less pressure from a sharp stone under the tread as the tyre can deform around it. Try putting a cricket ball under a 4WD's tyre at road pressure, it'll rest on it. Air down and the tyre wraps around the ball.

Yes the sidewalls do bag out, a little more when aired down. Not enough, IMHO, to worry about. It's not all that far (yes, I've measured it) and the sidewall is also now more flexible as there's less air in the tyre. Overall, my experience (and research) indicates the risk decreases as you air down.

Speed is also a big factor in punctures. The quicker you hit say a sharp rock the more likely it is to puncture your tyre. Try it with a balloon, same theory works. Or consider an axe blade being gently laid on a block of wood instead of being swung hard into it. That's why all those Series vehicles were so puncture-proof, they barely moved :-) and their lighter weight helped.

I could go on but as someone said there's no such thing as a puncture-proof tyre.
Did you mean to write that, that way round? because I would say its very much harder to pop a soft balloon over a hard one

rmp
20th May 2009, 09:20 PM
well spotted, should have been the other way around. Maybe I should proof my posts ;-)

dullbird
20th May 2009, 09:21 PM
:lol2:

Rangier Rover
20th May 2009, 09:30 PM
I totally agree with the balloon theory but I can't air down with big weight on. My 120 has to work every day loaded. A lot different to recreational wheeling. I do believe some tyres are more prone to failure than others under load for obvious reasons. If my choice in tyres fails me I'm going back to 750X16 14 or 16ply rags:( They are near bomb proof;)

Cheers Tony

flagg
20th May 2009, 09:55 PM
Speed is also a big factor in punctures. The quicker you hit say a sharp rock the more likely it is to puncture your tyre.

This is what I kept thinking as I was reading through this thread.. so much of it is how you drive. I drive real slow when I'm off road.. just 'pottering along' so to speak. Means I get to take in the scenery a bit more too! :wasntme:

I used to go driving with some guys who had wranglers.. they would blast and rev and bash and bang and were always braking things.. couldn't help them selves but to go everywhere flat out.. not only do you hit everything twice as hard you don't have time to avoid anything..

..Not saying everyone here who pops a tire is a hoon.. just that it increases your chances 100x. I've done 50 000km of off road and never had a puncture.

Rangier Rover
20th May 2009, 10:12 PM
Put a ton on the back and you wont ever see a set of tyres out here with out a side wall torn I can assure you. Most of our work is done in 2nd gear low range as strongest and most drivable gear to use in the hard going.
Sharp rocks and stumps make easy work of loaded tyres on side slopes:(

Tony

Rangier Rover
26th May 2009, 10:16 PM
The 285/75 X16 BFG K2s have arrived already. Around 341 each:eek: I did not expect them this quick.
I need to get the disco rims finished so I can stick them on. They look an angry tyre as my kids say:D
Lets hope they stick by me.

Tony

Psimpson7
26th May 2009, 10:19 PM
Be really interested in your feedback on these.

Rangier Rover
26th May 2009, 10:29 PM
Be really interested in your feedback on these.

It will be a non bias opinion here as they have to run in Basalt Rock, Black soil clay and mud. Also grip to the green stuff on a smooth steep slope. + survive some black top without wearing unevenly. Most of all I hope the side walls hold up when fully loaded.

I put a tape over them and are close to 33"X 9.5". Perfect for the 120.

Tony

Rangier Rover
2nd June 2009, 10:17 PM
We finaly are getting some winter rain fall here:) So had to change my tyres as the AT 750X16s are useless in wet black soil.:mad:

I haven't got my flipped disco rims back from the powder coaters yet so couldn't put the new BFGs on:( So had to patch up the buggered 12.5X33" mongrels . Took a few tractor tyre sized sleeves:eek: Need to be very careful on black top as they could pop.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15889&stc=1&d=1243948302

I'm still surprised how well they go in the mud as we have hills here. A lot different to plugging along in a flat mud pit. If the BFG K2s are nearly as good in the mud I will be happy.

Panda
2nd June 2009, 11:59 PM
Yes. I agree Frank. :)


I have noticed that mud terrain tyres with "side biter" lugs which extend down the sidewalls seem to be prone to staking in the sidewall.
It seems that the sidewall lugs tend to grab sticks/stakes and direct them into the sidewall, whereas smooth sidewalls (no side lugs) tend to deflect sticks/stakes, not in every circumstance though. Maybe the answer is multiple sidewalls, like the old 7.50x16's, if it just for off-road what about getting some LT 7.50x16's and having them retreaded in a mud terrain pattern, Regards Frank.