Alarm System/Engine Immobiliser preventing starting.

[TP7]

Haven't been having any problems with my 2003 D2 TD5. Went out one morning last week went to start it and as soon as it started to crank over the alarm went off and the engine wouldn't start. !@#$%^.

Checked all the doors and the bonnet. All closed properly. Several lights on the dash were illuminated - TC, HDC, ABS. Alarm light flicking really fast.

Went through the emergency key access process of entering the code in via the drivers door lock. Waited the 5 minutes which was actually about 8 minutes until the light went out. Jumped in went to start it the same thing happened.

Had to go out so jumped in the other car. Next day went through the same process with the spare key. Same deal. But the problem has escalated because now I can't turn the key in the door. !@#$%^.

Does any one have any ideas or pearls of wisdom that will save me having to get the thing towed to a LR specialist?

[dmdigital]

This happened to me.

First off replace the key fob batteries they may be flat. CR2032
Next heck the car battery is at least at 11.5V if not get another battery - Suspect this is it as the door locks won't fire.

If all this fails - like it did for me - I had to get the BCU faults cleared and it all worked. I had to buy RovacomLite to do this as I have no dealer within cooee.


Best of luck!

[Lionel]

Next check the car battery is at least at 11.5V if not get another battery - Suspect this is it as the door locks won't fire.



Yes. The battery is probably stuffed. I had exactly the same sort of thing happen with a Toyota 80 series with after market immobiliser/alarm.

Cheers,

Lionel

[TP7]

Thanks Lionel and dm-td5,.

I have got dual batteries and there doesn't seem to be any power issues but as you said it might not be generating enough.

The remote control door locks work just not the key in the lock. Does this change your responses?

[dmdigital]

When you unlock the car watch what the little red LED on the dash does as far as flashing. Check in the owner's manual because it will (not always) flash if the battery in the fob is in need of replacing or if there is an unlock issue from the fob.

I would disconnect your second battery from the circuit and just try things of the one battery too.

As for remote locking working and key not, that's a new one :confused:

If there's someone close by with Rovacom they should be able to check that the key fob press is being received OK (Nanocom may also do this).

Also the other thing is to try the EKA in the door lock.

One thing you now know (as I learnt too) the engine immobiliser works :(

[Mundy]

I assume your car is parked where it usually is and there's not been a problem before. If so, then this is probably not it, but if you park your car near either a pole transformer or high tension overhead power lines it may be interfering with your system. Has happened to me both in ordinary back streets and in Black Mountain in Canberra (where the Telecom tower is).

Mundy

[TP7]

One thing you now know (as I learnt too) the engine immobiliser works :(

Yep. I can't even steal it and I've got the keys!!!!

[Redback]

We had this problem, turned out to be the main battery was low on charge, luckly the key in the door code thingy worked and we were on our way again.

Found out why the battery went flat too, but that's another story for a thread about DUMB THINGS WE DO:angel:

Baz.

[TP7]

Thanks guys. It was a battery problem. You saved me heaps of bucks getting it towed somewhere and looked at by auto electrician. All I needed to do was put some jumper leads on it, wait about 3 min and it fired up. Went for a 30min drive and all is good. Hopefully I can give someone else advise that saves them $$$ in the future as a way of contributing to the greater good.