Defender, new suspension now has vibration

[NOZ]

Hi all, I got new suspension and tyres today and now the Defender has a vibration on deacceleration.

Any thoughts ?

235/85/16 STT Coopers

2in Tough Dog springs and shocks

[Bundalene]

Just a long shot - check your wheel nuts?

Erich

[NOZ]

I will that right now

[NOZ]

Nope not that

[justinc]

SOME later defenders,( 2000 on Td5), have issues with a lift that cause front propshaft vibes. Is the vibration worse on light throttle/ coasting/ beginning of deceleration? In these cases, even a 2" lift can cause it. And before a myriad of people say theirs doesn't, I have seen only a few effected by it. Other ones even the same model year have been fine. All I can put it down to was manufacturing chassis jig mismatching/ poor alignment. The fix was for these few I fitted D2 cardan joint front shafts and flanges.

JC

[NOZ]

That would be my luck :mad:

[Tombie]

Some defenders suffer from vibration in the front driveshaft after even a 2" lift.

My defender certainly did.

Solution is 1 of 2...

1.. Caster Bushes

2.. Discovery 2 front shaft (and output flange)



Or it could be as simple as the tyres werent balanced correctly or spat a weight..
Unlikely though considering you lifted it as well.

[NOZ]

The vibration is at is worst on full deacceleration from 80kms to 60kms as an average

[MacFamily]

Could be a long shot but now that you have lifted it maybe the front prop shaft maybe on a greater angle making a vibration, or maybe flogged uni joints which were not noticed untill you lifted it.

Other then that NOZ iam freash out of ideas.Iam sure a TD5 expert will be along shortly.

Have ya got any pics NOZ since you lifted/added new rubber cause thats a nice defender LOVE that blue..

[NOZ]

I thought about the tyres so I will have them rebalanced in the morning, it is of to MR Auto's to have the wiring harness replaced so I guess they will have an extra job to do


Some defenders suffer from vibration in the front driveshaft after even a 2" lift.

My defender certainly did.

Solution is 1 of 2...

1.. Caster Bushes

2.. Discovery 2 front shaft (and output flange)



Or it could be as simple as the tyres werent balanced correctly or spat a weight..
Unlikely though considering you lifted it as well.

[NOZ]

Yep also thought of the uni's, that could be it or the driveshaft seem to be the most popular suggestions


Could be a long shot but now that you have lifted it maybe the front prop shaft maybe on a greater angle making a vibration, or maybe flogged uni joints which were not noticed untill you lifted it.

Other then that NOZ iam freash out of ideas.Iam sure a TD5 expert will be along shortly.

Have ya got any pics NOZ since you lifted/added new rubber cause thats a nice defender LOVE that blue..

[NOZ]

No pics as yet only had it fitted today, once I have the vibration sorted I will have some time to take some pics


Could be a long shot but now that you have lifted it maybe the front prop shaft maybe on a greater angle making a vibration, or maybe flogged uni joints which were not noticed untill you lifted it.

Other then that NOZ iam freash out of ideas.Iam sure a TD5 expert will be along shortly.

Have ya got any pics NOZ since you lifted/added new rubber cause thats a nice defender LOVE that blue..

[rangieman]

Could be a long shot but now that you have lifted it maybe the front prop shaft maybe on a greater angle making a vibration, or maybe flogged uni joints which were not noticed untill you lifted it.

Other then that NOZ iam freash out of ideas.Iam sure a TD5 expert will be along shortly.

Have ya got any pics NOZ since you lifted/added new rubber cause thats a nice defender LOVE that blue..
x2
Once lifted the unis run at different angles and tend to flog out earlier than expected;)
So check them unis:cool:

[LoveMyV8County]

I love this forum! I am troubleshooting this exact problem which occurs in exactly the same 80 -> 60km/h speed range.

I believe it is the UJs on the rear prop that are worn and the lift has revealed the problem. When I dropped the rear height an inch or two (air suspension) the vibration reduced noticeably. I know it's not the front because I experienced it with the front prop removed.

Hope to have a definitive answer this weekend after I replace the bearings and spiders.

Chris

[windsock]

Hi,

Saw no reference to road surface that was driven on nor other details so just a few questions from left field driven by a similar experience with the same tyres on a very different vehicle. No lift, just the same tyres.

Coincidence can be a real bu66er when trying to find a problem.

What surface is the vibration felt on? Hard, soft? All?
Does the tread pattern differ from the previous set on the def? STTs are the aggressive MT one right?

We fitted these tyres onto a T/Prado VX and got a vibration on deceleration but in a lower spreed range. Turned out that the tread changing shape on deceleration on a hard surface did it.

Check on a softer surface or different surface to the one the vibration is felt on. Change the PSI in the tyre a few points up or down.

Just a thought... and if it turns out to be a similar problem to what I had in the work truck (Prado)... cheap to fix. Vibration dissappered after about 20,000kms ;)

Phil

[Hally]

G'day guys had this problem when I did a suspension lift 2" lovells (5years ago)I removed the front shaft and no luck it still had the vibrating issue I finally tracked it down to being the front coil springs I took them out and wrapped the top layer of the coil with black PVC spiral wrap and put them back in bingo problem solved this was also a common problem with (I think) the ford xf or xd ford use to coat the coil springs with plastic. best of luck hope you sort out what the problem is

[Yorkshire_Jon]

My money would be on the front prop.

If youve used King Springs you'll be on a generous plus 2". I would guess that the UJ's are binding in there new found increased travel. When offroading under greater articulation the prop jaws could also clash and go pop.

You should either use a double cardon prop specially made for a Defender T/Box or a Disco one and swap the T/Bpx front flange.

Also, have you changed the radius arms for castor corrected ones, or at least put castor corrected bushes in your existing radius arms? If not, you should.

[NOZ]

It seems that the wheels were not balanced correctly, rebalanced today problem solved.

[NOZ]

Thanks for the radius arm tip, will have this done Friday.


My money would be on the front prop.

If youve used King Springs you'll be on a generous plus 2". I would guess that the UJ's are binding in there new found increased travel. When offroading under greater articulation the prop jaws could also clash and go pop.

You should either use a double cardon prop specially made for a Defender T/Box or a Disco one and swap the T/Bpx front flange.

Also, have you changed the radius arms for castor corrected ones, or at least put castor corrected bushes in your existing radius arms? If not, you should.

[jimbo110]

Thanks for the radius arm tip, will have this done Friday.
Only do the caster correction if your steering is vauge or wandering since the lift. Caster correction will put even larger angles into your front prop shaft and possibly cause vibration again. I have a 2" lift in my truck and have no problems without caster correction.

[BigJon]

Also, have you changed the radius arms for castor corrected ones, or at least put castor corrected bushes in your existing radius arms? If not, you should.

The general concensus seems to be that slotted swivels are a much better method of correcting castor after a suspension lift.

Cranked arms / correction bushes will make the driveline angles worse and castor correction bushes tend to be very hard (limiting suspension flex) and wear out quickly.

Japanese 4wds require these methods of castor correction because of the poor axle design (fixed balls).

[PAT303]

I love this forum! I am troubleshooting this exact problem which occurs in exactly the same 80 -> 60km/h speed range.

I believe it is the UJs on the rear prop that are worn and the lift has revealed the problem. When I dropped the rear height an inch or two (air suspension) the vibration reduced noticeably. I know it's not the front because I experienced it with the front prop removed.

Hope to have a definitive answer this weekend after I replace the bearings and spiders.

Chris

My defender has 50mm lift springs and it vibrated,I removed the back ones and fitted standard so it would sit level and the vibration left,lowering the rear should put more angle on the front so it should make it worse but it didn't. Pat

[Yorkshire_Jon]

The general concensus seems to be that slotted swivels are a much better method of correcting castor after a suspension lift.

Cranked arms / correction bushes will make the driveline angles worse and castor correction bushes tend to be very hard (limiting suspension flex) and wear out quickly.

I am not a fan at all of castor corrected bushes - never use them now, always corrected arms.

Using the rotated swivels does correct the castor problem, but doesnt necesserily re-align the axle to a position normal to the spring and damper, it also doesnt relieve stress on the rear radius arm bush. To that end the springs can continue to want to pop out of the top holders and extra stress is placed in the bottom damper retaining stud.

I realise that there is always more than one way to skin a cat - each to there own I suspect. I prefer corrected arms as this addresses all issues. Using the correct "corrected arms" does NOT make the drive line (propshaft??) angles worse, exactly the opposite!! Rotated swivels on the otherhand do nothing to correct propshaft angles.

[NOZ]

It all sorted thanks for the help

[Koukandowie Brangus]

i have flogged out castor correction bush's was wondering if that was causing my wobble when turning right only.

[rick130]

<snip>

Using the correct "corrected arms" does NOT make the drive line (propshaft??) angles worse, exactly the opposite!!

It has to Jon.
If the diff housing is angled to increase caster due to a lift, the pinion angle is altered relative to the driveshaft.

Slotting the swivels is a far more elegant solution for caster correction IMO.


Rotated swivels on the otherhand do nothing to correct propshaft angles.No they don't, they don't bugger them up in the first place which is what happens when caster corrected bushes or bent arms are utilised.

That's why you adjust the caster at the swivel, so the pinion angle isn't altered.

[geckos]

had same problem NOZ had the tyres balanced a few times, and i will check once i return from here. THanks for the ideas

[350RRC]

It has to Jon.
If the diff housing is angled to increase caster due to a lift, the pinion angle is altered relative to the driveshaft.

Slotting the swivels is a far more elegant solution for caster correction IMO.

No they don't, they don't bugger them up in the first place which is what happens when caster corrected bushes or bent arms are utilised.

That's why you adjust the caster at the swivel, so the pinion angle isn't altered.

100% correct Rick.

cheers, DL

[stig0000]

i have just fitted a very soft 3" lift to mine, so its actuly just under 3",

and now i have a vibration on exactly 55kph, im suspecting the front prop, and i no my props are perfect so there not flogged out, i think its just that there is to much angle now,, and need to fit a double cardon joint,

i have allso noted on mine that there is no prob with the caster as mine dose not wonder at all,, in fact i think it dirves better then befor other then the vib at 55

[MacFamily]

i have just fitted a very soft 3" lift to mine, so its actuly just under 3",

and now i have a vibration on exactly 55kph, im suspecting the front prop, and i no my props are perfect so there not flogged out, i think its just that there is to much angle now,, and need to fit a double cardon joint,

i have allso noted on mine that there is no prob with the caster as mine dose not wonder at all,, in fact i think it dirves better then befor other then the vib at 55

Nick you know the :rulez: PICS.....

[stig0000]

Nick you know the :rulez: PICS.....
haha soz mate, i havent goten any realy good ones yet, i need to go 4WDING!!!!:D:D so heres the only one i have atm :cool:

can't wate to finaly get the full use of my new shocks!!

[MacFamily]

haha soz mate, i havent goten any realy good ones yet, i need to go 4WDING!!!!:D:D so heres the only one i have atm :cool:

can't wate to finaly get the full use of my new shocks!!

TD5 looks good nick need some 285's or 255's to fill the guards :D.When you go 4wding to test the new lift let us know.

Looks like you have had some rain up your way too hasent stoped down here:(

[stig0000]

TD5 looks good nick need some 285's or 255's to fill the guards :D.When you go 4wding to test the new lift let us know.

Looks like you have had some rain up your way too hasent stoped down here:(

i no ay mate,:D im hopen for some 33s soon,

im hoping for a trip out to cruser this weekend, long weekend:D will let you no

[nzlandies]

Yep, same vibe issues with me a few years back. I used castor corrected from arms to sort out the steering. Why because they did not involve as much shagging about as modifying the swivels.

Vibration was sorted by using the double cardon prop off a disco2. Later ones, D2a, have a much better, bigger joint than the the early d2s and this is certainly the one you should be looking for.