LT95 High Speed Gears

[Tank]

Has anyone got any pics or info on how to install these gears, I have posted in Tech sect. with no results, I urgently need info to pass on to my Son in Kalgoorlie, any info will be gratefully recieved, Thanks, Regards Frank.

[Bearman]

Has anyone got any pics or info on how to install these gears, I have posted in Tech sect. with no results, I urgently need info to pass on to my Son in Kalgoorlie, any info will be gratefully recieved, Thanks, Regards Frank.

Frank, Are they standard gears or taper roller type ones.....Brian

[Tank]

Brian, they aren't the tapered roller gears, they are just higher ratio gears than standard, my Son in Kalgoorlie is changing jobs and has to be in Qld by next Wednesday and he needs to get these gears into his Stage 1 which he is driving back, otherwise it will cost him a fortune in petrol.
I could do the job myself if I had the vehicle here, I could nut it out, my son probably could do it himself, but he doesn't have the tools to do it.
So he's getting a local mechanic to do it, who hasn't done it before, so I'd like to give them a clue on how it's done to cut down on the $95/hour they charge, any info would be helpful, Regards Frank.

[BMKal]

Has he found a mechanic Frank. He rang me before lunch and I suggested the only one that I could think of - haven't heard back since.

[Bearman]

Frank,
Basically you have to drain transfer case oil,remove rear tailshaft,handbrake assembly,rear output drive flange. Once this is done you can unbolt the bottom inspection plate and the rear output housing. Support the intermediate shaft with one hand and remove the locating pin (shaft) with the other hand. The intermediate shaft can then be lowered out of its position. Take care to ensure all thrust washers are retained in original positions. Remove the high range gear (big one) and replace with new gear ensuring all thrust washers are in correct position.(good time to replace thrust washers and needle roller bearings if they look a bit worn). Then remove the rear output housing (forgot to mention to disconnect speedo cable) and you can then remove centre diff. Also a good time to renew the brass thrust washers in the centre diff and check general condition of internals. Remove front bearing and remove hi range gear and replace with new one. Remove one of the bolts that secures the two halves of the centre diff together and see if it has any Loctite on it and Loctite them all if not already done. Replace bearing and reverse procedure for installation. Take care to ensure the locking dog that fits onto the front of the centre diff locates properly when you insert the centre diff into the housing. Put some grease on the intermediate shaft thrust washers when you install it to stop them falling out as you manoevre it into position. Thats about it. I hope I havent missed anything. I am sure someone will correct me if I have. Regards........Bearman

[Tank]

Has he found a mechanic Frank. He rang me before lunch and I suggested the only one that I could think of - haven't heard back since.
Brian, thanks mate, he has it booked in for 8.30 tomorrow morning, he's running around like a chook with it's head chopped off, I'll get him to call when he runs out of puff, Regards Frank.

[Tank]

Frank,
Basically you have to drain transfer case oil,remove rear tailshaft,handbrake assembly,rear output drive flange. Once this is done you can unbolt the bottom inspection plate and the rear output housing. Support the intermediate shaft with one hand and remove the locating pin (shaft) with the other hand. The intermediate shaft can then be lowered out of its position. Take care to ensure all thrust washers are retained in original positions. Remove the high range gear (big one) and replace with new gear ensuring all thrust washers are in correct position.(good time to replace thrust washers and needle roller bearings if they look a bit worn). Then remove the rear output housing (forgot to mention to disconnect speedo cable) and you can then remove centre diff. Also a good time to renew the brass thrust washers in the centre diff and check general condition of internals. Remove front bearing and remove hi range gear and replace with new one. Remove one of the bolts that secures the two halves of the centre diff together and see if it has any Loctite on it and Loctite them all if not already done. Replace bearing and reverse procedure for installation. Take care to ensure the locking dog that fits onto the front of the centre diff locates properly when you insert the centre diff into the housing. Put some grease on the intermediate shaft thrust washers when you install it to stop them falling out as you manoevre it into position. Thats about it. I hope I havent missed anything. I am sure someone will correct me if I have. Regards........Bearman
Bearman, thanks heaps mate, just a few questions, do the output flange Nuts (Drive) have to be Torqued up to any particular setting, do they have crush sleeves that need compressing? The whole centre diff needs to be removed to replce gear?

[Bearman]

Bearman, thanks heaps mate, just a few questions, do the output flange Nuts (Drive) have to be Torqued up to any particular setting, do they have crush sleeves that need compressing? The whole centre diff needs to be removed to replce gear?

About 120ft/lb for the rear shaft locknut, No crush sleeve. The front shaft stays in the housing and doesnt have to be removed. Yes the centre diff has to be removed to change the high speed gear. Good luck.....Brian

[Tank]

Bearman, (Brian) thanks for taking the time to help, I hope I will be able to repay you one day, Regards Frank

[djam1]

Before you remove the centre diff engage the centre diff lock.
This will stop the dog falling off and being a right PITA to get back in.
If you have an old countershaft cut it down so you can use it as a dummy it will make it easier to reassemble.

[rovercare]

First of all, I'd probably suggest that he drives across with the gears he has, as the labour charges will likely total mor than the fual saving costs, as for a first timer its a very fidgety job and until you've done one, you don;t know the tricks for reassembly, it can be quite painful till you get the knack;)

[justinc]

First of all, I'd probably suggest that he drives across with the gears he has, as the labour charges will likely total mor than the fual saving costs, as for a first timer its a very fidgety job and until you've done one, you don;t know the tricks for reassembly, it can be quite painful till you get the knack;)



I second that, especially if they get it wrong:o he'll be going nowhere:mad:

Leave them in and do it at a later stage when he doesn't have such a hectic schedule, and isn't relying on getting somewhere in a hurry.
To install them correctly it requires remeasuring and the correct thickness washers, and new thrusts etc, most of which aren't available at the drop of a hat.

JC

[Tank]

Thanks all for your much appreciated help on this matter, Dodge's Pics were very helpful and it seems to be a straightforward job, with the only fiddly bit being keeping washers and shims in place while replacing the intermediate shaft.
Rovercare and Justinc rightly pointed out that the cost of having the gears installed would outweigh any benefit afforded by better fuel economy.
So my Son is taking the Stage 1 into the w/shop tomorrow, with the info and pics from here and asking if it is going to be a problem and how long they reckon it will take (at $95/hour).
He is getting them to fit the front Tailshaft, which threw a uni-joint a while back, the T/C drive flange has to be removed to fit new bolts, or can you fit a bolt from the tailshaft end with the nut towards the T/C. Anyway he will see how they go about that and that should decide whether he has confidence in them doing a good job, will let you know what happens, Thanks again, Regards Frank.

[justinc]

Thanks all for your much appreciated help on this matter, Dodge's Pics were very helpful and it seems to be a straightforward job, with the only fiddly bit being keeping washers and shims in place while replacing the intermediate shaft.
Rovercare and Justinc rightly pointed out that the cost of having the gears installed would outweigh any benefit afforded by better fuel economy.
So my Son is taking the Stage 1 into the w/shop tomorrow, with the info and pics from here and asking if it is going to be a problem and how long they reckon it will take (at $95/hour).
He is getting them to fit the front Tailshaft, which threw a uni-joint a while back, the T/C drive flange has to be removed to fit new bolts, or can you fit a bolt from the tailshaft end with the nut towards the T/C. Anyway he will see how they go about that and that should decide whether he has confidence in them doing a good job, will let you know what happens, Thanks again, Regards Frank.


Frank,
I wouldn't let someone who hasn't done this before anywhere near it if it is about to attempt a trip like that. Worst case is they get the preload wrong, and he ends up half way there with toasted transfer internals, and no way of getting further. It is NOT something that can be bodgied up to get him going again. When they destruct they can take the high and low range gears and even the actual gear case out. I don't mean to frighten you, but I would personally leave it alone unless you are 100% sure they know what they are doing.

JC

[barney]

i may be labelled as a killjoy, but as an LT95 victim i can advise that his fuel bill will be considerably less if he keeps the speed under 95km/h.
if his motor is in good order and tuned correctly, he could possibly get his consumption down around 15l/100k. going that extra 5 or 10 kays an hour can send it up over 20l/100k.
by my calculations, at 15L/100K he would use 578.55L, where at 20L/100K he would use 771.4L. dropping those 5km/h could mean a saving of 192.85 litres, which, at sydney prices today of $1.38 (for 95 octane) = $266.13, which would be about a quarter of the cost of using 20L/100km.

[BMKal]

Frank, I agree with Justin and others on this one. I didn't realise until yesterday that he was driving the Stage 1 to your place, and then taking the Disco to Qld. Given the timeframe that he has, and the likely weather conditions etc, I'd be just keeping the speed down and driving across as it is.

Myles rang me yesterday afternoon and told me which mechanics he has lined up for the job. While they have a reasnable reputation amongst the young blokes in Kal, their claim to fame is souping up ricers. I'm not sure if they've any other relevant experience.

Shaun used to have mods on his Honda done there, but now will not go near them with the Mazda, as he says they wouldn't know diddly squat about rotary's, and apparently have gained a bit of a reputation in the past for taking client's vehicles out for a "drive".

Anyway - I passed this on to Myles and the decision's up to him.

[Tank]

Frank, I agree with Justin and others on this one. I didn't realise until yesterday that he was driving the Stage 1 to your place, and then taking the Disco to Qld. Given the timeframe that he has, and the likely weather conditions etc, I'd be just keeping the speed down and driving across as it is.

Myles rang me yesterday afternoon and told me which mechanics he has lined up for the job. While they have a reasnable reputation amongst the young blokes in Kal, their claim to fame is souping up ricers. I'm not sure if they've any other relevant experience.

Shaun used to have mods on his Honda done there, but now will not go near them with the Mazda, as he says they wouldn't know diddly squat about rotary's, and apparently have gained a bit of a reputation in the past for taking client's vehicles out for a "drive".

Anyway - I passed this on to Myles and the decision's up to him.
Brian, Justin, Barney, Dodge, Garrycol, Rovercare, Bearman, djam1 et al, thanks again, Myles has decided NOT to put in the H/S gears and just drive more conservatively, usually he does the opposite of good advice (from me anyway) but commonsense has prevailed.
Another question, is it advised to drive with the centre diff locked with the front Tailshaft not fitted, he has been driving it like this for some time now, since he broke the front uni joint (not a Double Cardon joint), can the T/C be damaged by doing this, Regards Frank.